ninjagaiden Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Folks Finally got some wrenching time since collecting parts for my T-revo truggy conversion when I was in the US. Here she is... So I stripped down my e-slayer conversion and put the e-revo arms back on, swapped the drive shafts to the 5451r optidrive ones, and then swapped out the plastic chassis for a Kershaw Designs v3.1 LCG aluminium chassis. Wheels are from a trophy truggy. Body is the Proline Bulldog for a HB-D8T. Had to do some fiddling but it fits pretty well. Reckon I have a pretty unique truggy now. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 very nice more pics of chassis please. Look forward to hear how it goes the kershaw stuff looks quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Looks great, as Butcher has said, more pics of the chassis please with the body off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Sure thing. Finished up late last night and wanted to share. I'll get some more pics up this evening. I've dealth with 3 custom manufacturers of aluminium parts, Alza Racing, 7075RC and Kershaw Designs.THe KD stuff is nowhere near as well finished as the other two, and the grade of aluminium may not be the same (7075AL) The kit has a Heath Robinson feel to it with exposed screw threads, mixture of hex and regular hardware, and lots of little nyloc nuts. The instructions aren;t great either. I watched Jatlag222's video on youtube to help me out, and decided to build the whole chassis up first to check I had everything. Also I was missing a few plastic spacers for the servo mounts but managed to make some from stuff in my RC toolbox. However it did go together perfectly in terms of alignment with the original front and rear ends and tranny. You have to unscrew one of the bolts to get the motor mount cam on and off but that's no big deal. Also I ordered the steel center dog bone and cups and they are very nicely put together. It's easier to work on the chassis with the exposed driveline and easier to visually inspect. Sadly no driving until a new bottle of threadlock arrives as I have lots of metal on metal drive connections with the centre dog bones and optidrive upgrades. Must have not tightened the lid last time I used it. Doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Jetlagg snapped his version 1, but Dan fixed the issue with later versions. I would love one of these, perfect for a true 1/8 Centre Diff conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 OK. Here are some more pics. For scale, Minecraft Steve is 7cm tall. Fitting of front end assembly Side profile of twin plate chassis, and battery straps L servo mount. Looks like it will take larger servos. Plastic spacers fitted underneath plate ensure servos have corect standoff from upper deck. ESC hold down fits just like stock chassis. There are also holes for an HW150 ESC. Rear assembly the diff is keyed in nicely onto upper chassis plate RX box mounts like stock position. Had to find longer mounting screws than those in the kit. Nyloc nut in middle of picture has to be removed to get motor on and off. Lower plate is thinner than the upper deck. Note also the extra aluminium braces under the upper plate - on V3.1 chassis they run all the way along from front to back. R servo mount has larger aperture and extra holes- not sure if this is for single servo conversion Bottom plate. Some of the holes are not used in the 3.1 chassis. Centre dog bone conversion and cup Pins to stop battery slipping laterally I read an article on fitting Proline Bulldog shell to an e-revo. The lexan is super thick! My shell sits further back on the chassis, so bodypost flanges had to be trimmed to let the shell sit flat. Rear bodypost fitting. I'll tidy that up with a file before painting. Total build time including shell fitting was about 6 hours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Lid painted and stickered up Ninjagaiden stylie. Di-Noc Carbon fibre wrap to keep the bottom plate fresh. Metal on metal screws threadlocked. Just need some better weather for a maiden run... Edited December 8, 2014 by ninjagaiden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Almost looks too good to use! Did you paint it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 What a beauti man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Almost looks too good to use! Did you paint it yourself? Yep. Two rattle cans! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Very nice indeed!!...wanna do my shells.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Yep. Two rattle cans! Cool, how easy is it to blend the colours like you've done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 It's pretty easy. I put masking tape on the bit that is going to be solid orange, and use a piece of paper over the bottom of the shell, standing off the surface to be painted. I spray perpendicular to the paper, gold colour first, and then direct a bit of the spray under the paper. Once it has dried I take the paper off and the masking tape. Then I spray the second (orange) colour. Some people cut a zig zag edge on the paper in order to give a better feather effect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Thanks for info, I may give that a go on one of my bodies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveyb84 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 This is awesome. I love the body shell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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