T4carlos Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Hi there new to the forum so hello Right then I have had a Schumacher mission for a good few years now only using it every now and then but now my lad is getting older its nice to get the car out and set up a little race track together. Anyway the problem is everytime you turn to the left its spins out with the left rear wheel wheel spinning like it has no grip at all. But when you turn to the right it under steers like crazy. Now I have got all the wheels nice and straight with the camber/caster set up nicely even the steering is pretty cock on but I have this problem please help as its very frustrating when cornering. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quantra Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Give the car a rebuild and check everything over in particular... Check your steering throw is equal left and right, check all the bearings are still smooth, check nothing binds in the suspension, check the diff is still working properly, check that the tyres are still all glued on properly, check droop is set properly, check all shocks are the same length and work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoo Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Sounds like its your front diff that's the problem, it might seem fine when you turn the wheels by hand but at speed its probably spinning the front left wheel more than the right one, thisll cause the right wheel to grip more almost like there's no drive to it, and if you're turning left and have drive to the back still its gonna handle like its just rear wheel drive for a moment. If this is the problem you can fix it by opening up the front diff and filling it with thick silicone grease, thisll give the diff more lock, if you want to go all out and pretty much lock the diff completely fill it with blue tac, works a treat, I use silicone in the front diff on my tmaxx and blue tac in the back so I can drift it a bit, works a bit like an lsd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T4carlos Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Thanks for the replys going to start a rebuild on it tonight see if it makes a difference and prob lock or put new grease in front diff cheers for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T4carlos Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Right then stripped car down rebuilt It rebuilt diffs still the same well slightly better anyway checked the servo and it's turning the wheels more one way than the other so changed servo and it's still the same not sure what to do now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta05 Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 check the build manual and make sure the steering turnbuckles are the correct length, the servo saver (if you use one) is working correctly and that the servo saver turns with equal throw from left to right when you turn it slowly by hand. Any of those could cause a car to turn more one way than the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator_2 Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) I'm no expert but we've got Missions and have converted some to Mi1's. My eldest son was having issues with the car spinning out in corners randomly and we asked someone at the club that we race at and we found that it was the rear diff binding at certain points. I replaced the bearings at first and then luckily I had a spare diff. When we compared the new vs old we found that the old diff would spin freely but when the suspension arms moved at the rear the diff would bind and allow one outdrive side to spin more than the other. Drive from the motor goes to the rear diff via a small drive belt (rear drive belt) and then is transferred to the front via the long belt so the rear diff always gets drive from the motor (unless the rear belt goes). I have since rebuilt the diff completely and this is now one of our spares. There were two versions of the diff too. An early version had a thrust race externally in the outdrive and the newer version has the thrust race held internally in the diff out drive by a circlip. On the steering side, the missions have an internal servo saver (built in to the steering system) so all you need to do is set a servo horn vertically (making sure that the servo is at zero first) and then make sure that the steering links are the same length (as ta05 posted) and then take up any misalignment between the steering servo horn and the steering. The mission ends up with all the electrics on one side and the battery on the other. Make sure that both sides are equal weight. Check that all shocks are the same length (even down to how much the ball cup is screwed on each piston rod) and that they rebound the same amount. Check droop is equal on each side. Check that ride height is equal on front right and front left and then rear right and rear left. When checking ride height all electrics have to be in (as though you are just about to drive the car). Are the upper wishbones in the upper or lower positions? Have you put the anti-roll bars on? Regards, Nick. Edited August 18, 2014 by terminator_2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T4carlos Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Sorted rebuilt shocks again made sure measurements were all correct fitted brand new rear diff and guess what she is perfect loads better thanks again for all of your input into this next on the cards is getting some new batteries sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T4carlos Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Forgot to mention sorted the servo problem out too turns out to be a setting on the controller did not realise it was there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator_2 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Glad you are sorted.I am sorry I took a while to reply. I didn't read your post correctly the first time and thought that I couldn't help. What batteries are you planning to use as we have two missions that have the radshape alloy chassis and we have purchased radshape's lipo battery tray (the generic one) and it holds lipos or would give you an option of using a 400mm Velcro strap to hold things tight. We had to drill a hole in the lipo tray to fit the mission mounting holes but it works out cheaper than buying a mi1 chassis. Regards, Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T4carlos Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Not sure what to do yet regards battery's because I am running an old electronic speed controller mtroniks rv eco 27 and a 27turn reedy stock motor. It is quick with this but not sure what lipo battery would be needed to run these when I was last using the car lipo batteries were only starting to be used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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