terminator_2

Thought that it looked like a Schumacher SST 2000 to me at first, but now studying the wishbones (upper and lower) I am unsure. Sorry.

Try here:- http://www.crcmcc.co.uk/ Regards, T_2

There are two racers that race F1 in Crewe. The racing alongside GT10 cars.

Glad you are sorted.I am sorry I took a while to reply. I didn't read your post correctly the first time and thought that I couldn't help. What batteries are you planning to use as we have two missions that have the radshape alloy chassis and we have purchased radshape's lipo battery tray (the generic one) and it holds lipos or would give you an option of using a 400mm Velcro strap to hold things tight. We had to drill a hole in the lipo tray to fit the mission mounting holes but it works out cheaper than buying a mi1 chassis. Regards, Nick.

I'm no expert but we've got Missions and have converted some to Mi1's. My eldest son was having issues with the car spinning out in corners randomly and we asked someone at the club that we race at and we found that it was the rear diff binding at certain points. I replaced the bearings at first and then luckily I had a spare diff. When we compared the new vs old we found that the old diff would spin freely but when the suspension arms moved at the rear the diff would bind and allow one outdrive side to spin more than the other. Drive from the motor goes to the rear diff via a small drive belt (rear drive belt) and then is transferred to the front via the long belt so the rear diff always gets drive from the motor (unless the rear belt goes). I have since rebuilt the diff completely and this is now one of our spares. There were two versions of the diff too. An early version had a thrust race externally in the outdrive and the newer version has the thrust race held internally in the diff out drive by a circlip. On the steering side, the missions have an internal servo saver (built in to the steering system) so all you need to do is set a servo horn vertically (making sure that the servo is at zero first) and then make sure that the steering links are the same length (as ta05 posted) and then take up any misalignment between the steering servo horn and the steering. The mission ends up with all the electrics on one side and the battery on the other. Make sure that both sides are equal weight. Check that all shocks are the same length (even down to how much the ball cup is screwed on each piston rod) and that they rebound the same amount. Check droop is equal on each side. Check that ride height is equal on front right and front left and then rear right and rear left. When checking ride height all electrics have to be in (as though you are just about to drive the car). Are the upper wishbones in the upper or lower positions? Have you put the anti-roll bars on? Regards, Nick.

Hi, I've not got a nitro and only been with 1/10 buggies Storm Valley is a must... On the edge of the Cheshire Border (just off the M6). They do Nitro's on a Sunday. A great indoor clay track last time I went. Well worth the money! Regards, Nick.

It is on the BRCA website and has been for a while... If you go from the main index page of the BRCA Website to "Sections", then select "1/10 Electric Circuit", then select "Homolgation List" and then finally click on "Body Shelll List 20140306" or simply follow this link http://www.brca.org/sections/subsections/pages/body-shell-list-20140306/24014 regards, T_2

Here? http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/4675/ Regards, T_2

I bought my son a flysky gt3b and waited for ages for it to come from the supplier only to find that it was faulty. Eventually the supplier refunded my money as they wanted me to send it back (which would have cost more than buying as new unit). After being refunded in full we had nothing to loose, so we took it apart. We put the battery's in and noticed that it was turning off and on as we wiggled the battery box cable. We traced the cable down to the PCB and found that the connector had not been pushed fully into the socket. After making sure it was fully home, we tried the on of switch and it worked from then on.... Since then we've converted ours to lipos buying a custom made cable and it is still working now! I know that it is a different model, but it is worth a shout. Regards, T_2

Here's my collection of CATs: - http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/ClassicCatCollectionReference.jpg Here are the CAT 3000's that we still race at Storm Valley Raceway: -http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/3Cat3000s.jpg We are also in to our touring cars too: - http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/sstsport.jpg SST Sport http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Ssthybrid.jpg SST '99 ProPro http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Missiontwo.jpg And http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Missionthree.jpg And http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Missionspare.jpg Schumacher Missions.... 2 Now converted to Mi1's Liking this thread! T_2

Could I ask what we are classing as vintage? How old does a car have to be before it is "Vintage"? Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

Hi, I have recently switched from driving buggies to tourers and I tried my touring set up station on a buggy and found that the cars are different widths. The only thing that I could not measure was toe in/out. I don't think that there is any need for setup wheels unless you want a quick measurement in the field and not want to get out your setup station. The setup station measures Camber, toe in/out and caster. Not sure if a buggy one would work for tourers, but looks like you've just got buggies and therefore would defo get a buggy one. Can't 100% give up the buggies though.... not with Storm Valley Raceway so close! Regards, T_2

Not sure. I don't storage charge mine as it is low power drain and they are used regularly. May be if I wasn't going to race or bash for a while I'd consider it. I always storage charge the car lipos. I've really not thought enough about these ones. T_2

Gentle persuasion... Like it! Almost as good as tweak and sounds better than bodge! Glad you are sorted! The other 2 pin connector can be used to plug in to a transmitter (does on mine anyway). Lipos last longer than Nimh's but I do unplug the plug after every use just in case the transmitter is left on by accident... You do not want to drain the lipo completely which destroys it beyond repair. Regards, T_2

The balance plug has two grooves on the top of the plug and the balance socket has got two recesses that should prevent you plugging the plug upside down (or the wrong way). It should go in there! As far as I can see from the photos on modeksport's web site the set up is nearly the same as the imax b6ac charger that I have. It should go in! Regards, T_2