terminator_2

Thought that it looked like a Schumacher SST 2000 to me at first, but now studying the wishbones (upper and lower) I am unsure. Sorry.

Try here:- http://www.crcmcc.co.uk/ Regards, T_2

There are two racers that race F1 in Crewe. The racing alongside GT10 cars.

Glad you are sorted.I am sorry I took a while to reply. I didn't read your post correctly the first time and thought that I couldn't help. What batteries are you planning to use as we have two missions that have the radshape alloy chassis and we have purchased radshape's lipo battery tray (the generic one) and it holds lipos or would give you an option of using a 400mm Velcro strap to hold things tight. We had to drill a hole in the lipo tray to fit the mission mounting holes but it works out cheaper than buying a mi1 chassis. Regards, Nick.

I'm no expert but we've got Missions and have converted some to Mi1's. My eldest son was having issues with the car spinning out in corners randomly and we asked someone at the club that we race at and we found that it was the rear diff binding at certain points. I replaced the bearings at first and then luckily I had a spare diff. When we compared the new vs old we found that the old diff would spin freely but when the suspension arms moved at the rear the diff would bind and allow one outdrive side to spin more than the other. Drive from the motor goes to the rear diff via a small drive belt (rear drive belt) and then is transferred to the front via the long belt so the rear diff always gets drive from the motor (unless the rear belt goes). I have since rebuilt the diff completely and this is now one of our spares. There were two versions of the diff too. An early version had a thrust race externally in the outdrive and the newer version has the thrust race held internally in the diff out drive by a circlip. On the steering side, the missions have an internal servo saver (built in to the steering system) so all you need to do is set a servo horn vertically (making sure that the servo is at zero first) and then make sure that the steering links are the same length (as ta05 posted) and then take up any misalignment between the steering servo horn and the steering. The mission ends up with all the electrics on one side and the battery on the other. Make sure that both sides are equal weight. Check that all shocks are the same length (even down to how much the ball cup is screwed on each piston rod) and that they rebound the same amount. Check droop is equal on each side. Check that ride height is equal on front right and front left and then rear right and rear left. When checking ride height all electrics have to be in (as though you are just about to drive the car). Are the upper wishbones in the upper or lower positions? Have you put the anti-roll bars on? Regards, Nick.

Hi, I've not got a nitro and only been with 1/10 buggies Storm Valley is a must... On the edge of the Cheshire Border (just off the M6). They do Nitro's on a Sunday. A great indoor clay track last time I went. Well worth the money! Regards, Nick.

It is on the BRCA website and has been for a while... If you go from the main index page of the BRCA Website to "Sections", then select "1/10 Electric Circuit", then select "Homolgation List" and then finally click on "Body Shelll List 20140306" or simply follow this link http://www.brca.org/sections/subsections/pages/body-shell-list-20140306/24014 regards, T_2

Here? http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/4675/ Regards, T_2

I bought my son a flysky gt3b and waited for ages for it to come from the supplier only to find that it was faulty. Eventually the supplier refunded my money as they wanted me to send it back (which would have cost more than buying as new unit). After being refunded in full we had nothing to loose, so we took it apart. We put the battery's in and noticed that it was turning off and on as we wiggled the battery box cable. We traced the cable down to the PCB and found that the connector had not been pushed fully into the socket. After making sure it was fully home, we tried the on of switch and it worked from then on.... Since then we've converted ours to lipos buying a custom made cable and it is still working now! I know that it is a different model, but it is worth a shout. Regards, T_2

Here's my collection of CATs: - http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/ClassicCatCollectionReference.jpg Here are the CAT 3000's that we still race at Storm Valley Raceway: -http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/3Cat3000s.jpg We are also in to our touring cars too: - http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/sstsport.jpg SST Sport http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Ssthybrid.jpg SST '99 ProPro http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Missiontwo.jpg And http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Missionthree.jpg And http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t470/terminator_2/Missionspare.jpg Schumacher Missions.... 2 Now converted to Mi1's Liking this thread! T_2

Could I ask what we are classing as vintage? How old does a car have to be before it is "Vintage"? Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

Hi, I have recently switched from driving buggies to tourers and I tried my touring set up station on a buggy and found that the cars are different widths. The only thing that I could not measure was toe in/out. I don't think that there is any need for setup wheels unless you want a quick measurement in the field and not want to get out your setup station. The setup station measures Camber, toe in/out and caster. Not sure if a buggy one would work for tourers, but looks like you've just got buggies and therefore would defo get a buggy one. Can't 100% give up the buggies though.... not with Storm Valley Raceway so close! Regards, T_2

Not sure. I don't storage charge mine as it is low power drain and they are used regularly. May be if I wasn't going to race or bash for a while I'd consider it. I always storage charge the car lipos. I've really not thought enough about these ones. T_2

Gentle persuasion... Like it! Almost as good as tweak and sounds better than bodge! Glad you are sorted! The other 2 pin connector can be used to plug in to a transmitter (does on mine anyway). Lipos last longer than Nimh's but I do unplug the plug after every use just in case the transmitter is left on by accident... You do not want to drain the lipo completely which destroys it beyond repair. Regards, T_2

The balance plug has two grooves on the top of the plug and the balance socket has got two recesses that should prevent you plugging the plug upside down (or the wrong way). It should go in there! As far as I can see from the photos on modeksport's web site the set up is nearly the same as the imax b6ac charger that I have. It should go in! Regards, T_2

You have got a 3s lipo (same as me for my transmitter). The black plug that looks like a servo plug should be use to connect to the +ve (red) and -ve (black) connectors in your charger. The 4 lead jst (balance) plug should plug directly into the side of youroverlander rc6-vsp charger. The balance plug monitors the voltage across the 3 cells in your lipo. I have an imax ba6 charger and mine comes with a charging lead that ends with a futaba battery connector and the I have a futaba battery connector lead to a black servo type plug (yours may have come with deans). I have left the battery out of the lipo bag for the photo, but please don't charge the lipo on another charger. T_2

Always turn the transmitter on first and then the car. When finished, turn car off ( even safer to break connection between battery and esc ) then turn off the transmitter

The reverse is set to 50% by default and so if you can get the program card working, then you can set reverse to 100% power. Haven't had any problems with esc / Motor combo in conjunction with Lipo. It didn't seem powerful enough in my buggy, but in a touring car it is fast! Nick.

Oops just read your post properly! Calibrate esc: (if futaba type controller you must reverse the throttle channel) Esc switch off Turn on transmitter Hold full throttle on transmitter and turn on the ESC's switch on. Keep holding full throttle on transmitter. The ESC will ring the initialisation tones. Wait 2 seconds The motor will ring 4 times indicating full throttle measured. While beeping, move the channel 2 (throttle) to full reverse. Esc ring 4 times. While beeping, return the throttle/brake control on transmitter to neutral. ESC should ring and a yellow led should flash on esc. ESC will ring twice indicating that it is armed. Should now be ok. Regards, Nick.

I think that reverse is disabled by default on the photon sbs 2.0. If you read the manual, you can program the speed controller manually or by using the programing card to tell the speed controller to use reverse mode. Regards, Nick.

Hi, Voltage cutoff is present on the photon sbs2.0. It is autodetect by default (which should auto detect lipo packs) or you can enter a cut off voltage of either 6V (or 9V) depending on running 2S (or 3S) lipos.

I've been 4 times now. There is a outdoor covered pit area, toilets, a parts shop and an excellent track. I'm not good enough to enter a race there yet.... Need more practice! Excellent for our 1/10th buggies.

I picked one of these for

Something like this: - http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161020905004 Or this:- http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=170690456834 regards, I bought the 0.5l and I reckon that will do my buggy large (length) shocks too Nick.

Hi, I have built my own shock pump following this guide: - http://www.car69.me.uk/shock-building-diy-tool.html It works and saves you