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SMC's for me

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RPM motors for big tracks, torque motors for small tracks. Team Wave is the motor to beat on small club tracks. I had a gen 2 but not as fast on the small track. So long as you have the traction to turn that torque into acceleration then the more the better! When you have the long straight to get a high speed then more RPMs are better. Some other things which might help you find the last tenths... Try less toe. 0.5 on the front and see how low you can get it on the rear whilst still having traction out the corner. Thicker diff oil means less energy lost to the diff and more to track. Lower bodyshell, smaller rear wing. Even on a small track reducing drag can be worth tenths. Sometimes you got to tune the car to make it faster and not necessarily better to drive.

Give the car a rebuild and check everything over in particular... Check your steering throw is equal left and right, check all the bearings are still smooth, check nothing binds in the suspension, check the diff is still working properly, check that the tyres are still all glued on properly, check droop is set properly, check all shocks are the same length and work properly.

Belts are directional in their construction. If during use the belt moves all the way to one side of a pulley then take the belt of and turn it around and it should go more central.

So long as there isn't too much chance of it taking a nasty whack, ie indoor racing with solid barriers then I'd go with a cheapy plastic servo horn. If it is in danger of being whacked then a servo saver. I like the xray ones but probably a bit overkill on a TT01.

It definitely has an effect on the Awesomatix. The more reactive rear toe we set the less steering out of the corner and the more the car wants to drive in a straight line out the corner. So could be useful if you lack rear traction on exit but for me it meant I had to feed in the throttle too slowly out of the corner and it was costing lap time.

I use a Sanwa SDX 801 in pretty much everything.

What you've never taken a TC over a jump xD But yeah best advice is check your local club, see what classes are popular, what the rules are and what chassis are popular in those classes.

Active rear suspension or dynamic rear toe is standard on the Awesomatix cars. I always found the car handled most consistently and made the fastest laps with the dynamic rear toe eliminated. Would be interested to see how people find this feature on the xray as they are quite different cars, perhaps it will be a great benefit.

Also I have a T4'14 in my possession now. Not tried it or even prepped it but just comparing it to the T4 I can only spot a few difference, what am I missing? Lower deck is about 4mm narrower Front wishbones updated Rear wishbones minor update (holes in them) Suspension mounts ala Kyosho Slight updated top deck to take central stiffener post I'm sure I must be missing something and it does seem like Xray have kinda missed the point of the Tamiya style suspension mounts. I always thought the benefit was in the steel ball ends and tight fitting hinge pins which allows the arms to rotate freely under load and not wobble on the pins. Xray seem to have done something which looks similar but is instead used to allow for easier changes between toe and roll centre settings. I already checked to see if Tamiya suspension blocks would fit but they don't =[ Has anyone tried both the T4 and T4'14? If so, care to share your experiences and thoughts on the two please =]

Yeah I don't like orange... And I have lots of red screws so grey and red is what I'm going for recently. I guess this fan is an odd one then as it has a sticker on both sides, perhaps because it's a 40mm. Never liked the idea of squeezing a fan between motor and ESC, I never seem to have the room and they always look like they are taking hot air off the ESC and blowing it on the motor but I do understand it has a better chance of working with natural air flow. Quite a long time ago now I did some testing with various fan and heat sink mounting and basically found the heat sinks to be worthless, sometimes the cooling was better without the heatsink at all due to better air flow. I think a lot of them actually held the fan too close to the motor and I found a gap of 10-20mm to work best. For the T4 there is an extra threaded screw hole on the layshaft mount so you can pop a grub screw into a servo mount and use it as a fan mount here which leaves the fan about 15mm away from the motor depending on the spur and pinion used.

That fan is blowing air on the motor not away. It is always most effective cooling like this. After all on a hot summers day do you stand in front of or behind a fan to cool down yourself?

Crappy phone pic but meh... Been giving my T4 some love =]

Not sure what foam wheels are like but I normally cut my drive shafts down 3-4mm so there is only 0.5mm protruding from the wheel nut with rubber tyre/wheels fitted. It helps a lot when the barriers are made from ropes. But anyway I'd expect there to be plenty left after going to a thicker hex. Another option would be wheel spacers.

Oh but Newbury is so well worth the journey! I've only been once but one of the best venues/tracks I've ever raced at. Just the right size if you ask me. Big enough for a good track but not so big the car is a long way away from where you are standing. I love visiting other clubs, today I was at GMCC and on Monday I hope to make it to Risby for one of their famous bank holiday meetings.

I'd pick up the phone and get in touch with these shops. I use both regularly and get great service from them both so I'm surprised you are having problems with them.

Camber/toe again depends on the car. Most like 1.5 and 2 camber front and rear but I run more like 1.5 front and rear. Toe is a good one for testing changes without making the car wild. I have 2 settings I like one is safe the other fast, so I use the safe ones when I'm testing things which might make the car hard to drive. Safe: 1 out and 3 in front and rear. Fast: 0.5 out and 2.5 in front and rear. In general the straighter your wheels the faster the car will go in a straight line, the more rotation you will have (from rear toe) and the more steering you will have mid corner (from front toe). The more toe you run the more stable the car becomes and it's easier to keep it in a straight line. You can change camber link spacers inner and outer, they basically have the opposite effect to each other. So removing spacers from outer is like adding them to inner and vice versa. However there is something called steering axis inclination which means I always use as many spacers on the outer and only adjust with the inner, it's a really tiny effect though.

In general when you add spacers under the inner camber link you are lowering the roll centre by a small amount. You are also reducing camber gain by a small amount. The effect depends on the car and the rest of the setup. Normally you will be taking grip away from that end of the car as you will be letting it roll more and reducing the camber gain, however the opposite can also be true so you have to experiment with this one. If the grip is high and my car is sucking mid corner I will add 0.5mm spacers all round to free the car up without affecting the handling too much.

I'm no expert on front diffs as I use a spool all the time but in general the thicker the diff oil the more that end of the car will slide in corners and the faster it will accelerate the car in a straight line out of corners. So I guess in general too thick would cause understeer but I'm also pretty sure there's going to be more to it than what I have posted.

Sounds good =] Here's a link to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYbNcBGHlu8

It's on this page: http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca/OnRoadDownload.aspx Looking forward to seeing what the update will bring =] I'm hoping for more/unlimited camber link positions and labels for them when on the settings tab.

I'm sure you won't be disappointed =]

I might be joining you with a Sakura but I want their F1 car the FGX, looks like it could be a fun project =]

I'd go with either the T4 or Mi5. I'd lean towards the T4 since I had such a good experience with mine and xray products in general. Whenever possible I suggest people start with an xray because of how nice and easy they are to build, all the hints and tips in the manual, the support from the RC community and because they tend to run very well with kit settings out the box or just a few small tweaks.