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Scrumpy's madforce brushless conversion


scrumpy jack

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15 hours ago, Nitroholic said:

I will have to check what pinion I have.

 

I made my own centre chassis plate, used a Hyper 7 motor mount and centre diff, but mounted UNDER the chassis, with a bashplate to protect it. Gets rid of the chain drive and the awkward 3 speed setup. You don;t need it for brushless. It sits where the lower half of hte chain run is, and is tucked into the chassis in the same way. No ground clearance issues.  I used a 1950Kv 4 pole motor. I didn;t gear it that high, and find it's a lot of fun on 4S. Run higher voltage and the handling is poor, as is reliability. I seem to recall fitting Hyper 7 diffs and pinion with straight cut gears.  Was going to uses Savage ones, but they are fractionally longer and bind up as soon as you screw the cases fully together.

 

Worked fine with the driveshafts I had.  Not sure exaclty which ones I used. Might be a mix of Hyper7 and Kyosho. I also replaced the axles with HPI Savage ones, and fitted proper sized wheel hexes. The Kyosho ones are just poor for sizing. If you want....I can grab some pics of the setup I ended up with.

Train gear will come off as soon as I get the diff and motor mount. Already have the motor, a generic 3300kv brushless, with a 60A ESC. New receiver and remote also in the post. Would love to see some pics of your conversion.

20231015_141903.jpg

Edited by Taeonas
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14 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

Interesting, i have 1 of these in the loft that has seen much better days, had never thought of brushless converting it!

Bring it back to life! Lofts are not kind to large rubber tires.

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Will grab some pics when I get in from work. 

 

Definitely worth converting if you don't want to run it nitro. Don't go overboard power wise as the drivetrain isn't massively strong, but mine handles 4s without problem and that's fast enough for the way it drives. 

I made a custom chassis floor as I wanted to be able to convert it back easily. It's only a flat plate with a couple of holes in it.

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3 hours ago, Nitroholic said:

Will grab some pics when I get in from work. 

 

Definitely worth converting if you don't want to run it nitro. Don't go overboard power wise as the drivetrain isn't massively strong, but mine handles 4s without problem and that's fast enough for the way it drives. 

I made a custom chassis floor as I wanted to be able to convert it back easily. It's only a flat plate with a couple of holes in it.

Can't wait to see your pics. The motor is something from a past project that didn't happen, so I hope is not too much. What did you get/do regarding mounting a battery box/tray? I'm looking at the mounts from the receiver box and it looks like it can take some form of tray.

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underneath view:

Bvu0Q00.jpg

 

I have aluminium braces on eacy suspension arm, plusrods running from the pivot that help stiffen it up. The servo is mounted on the frontlewft platewhich has an extension to hold it. Best to use a waterproof servo here.

 

TK5vyGL.jpg

 

16T pinion, which is a fraction lower than ideal, but it works well enough. I have a cover to go over it and keep the debris off, but sometimes, I find it's more a catcher of debris than an excluder.

 

ZnUgq2k.jpg

 

Battery tray I made out of 2 bits of plastic ( was part of an old plastic chopping board ) and 2 bits of thin aluminium angle. It mounts onto the main plate and the front cross bar. ESC sits at the back, along with a radio box which I think cames off a Traxxas Stampede. I made a rollcage out of nylon rodwhich sits in place of the stock wire one. I wanted to protect hte ESC in the event of a rollover. You can see the bracing struts on the arms from here too. Pair of rod ends, 4mm threaded bar, with a piece of 6mm tube in the middle. Couple of nuts either end to lock it all up.

 

yXgyjpA.jpg

 

 

 

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Got the diff and motor mount, but something's not right. It seems too big and new holes might have to be drilled as this plate has nothing that can take that mount or accomodate the spurr without touching the plate. 🤔20231017_101244.thumb.jpg.12fdcd85cc7aa2f644560ae5218986a2.jpg20231017_103428.thumb.jpg.98e9585b73ba48c5ef8a758ad9e933c8.jpg20231017_103435.thumb.jpg.1fc14a27af47d8498b630a6fffbc8293.jpg

Edited by Taeonas
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The centre plate that holds the motor mount is not in place in that picture. It should be fine.

 

Though on mine, I did replace the plastic cross pieces with some aluminium ones. I bought a small piece of square bar, and drilled and tapped it to replace the plastic.

Edited by Nitroholic
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