ninjagaiden Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Guys I am building up a DEX410R for bashing at the moment. I thought I would share my observations in a build thread. General The kit comes in a nice box with the metal and plastic parts separated and metal parts are bagged up in separate stages. The plastics are of excellent quality and generally separate from their trees very easily with little need to remove flashing. The manual included in the box is black and white, and the halftones don;t reproduce well. Also there are loose inserts in the manual where they have updated parts. The online manual is up to date, and MUCH easier to see the details of the diagrams. I found it necessary to have both open, the PDF for reading, and the printed one to measure parts against the 1:1 illustrations. Identification of plastic parts in the manual is very poor. They give you a number for the plastic tree on which the part is moulded. You kind of need to know which part you are looking for ahead of time. I also found it very helpful to have my vernier gauge to check the sizes of the parts. Remember you don't get diff oil, shock oil, gear grease, tyres or inserts so you need to add these in to your purchase. As we had a nice warm day I started with the bodyshell which is in fiery orange metallic with carbon fibre wrap inserts and sides Then I started on the build proper. The diffs are gorgeous little 4 spur geared items and go together smoothly. The slipper unit also went together very easily. As this car is for bashing, I wrapped the alu chassis plate in Di-Noc carbon fibre to protect against scratches and for a bit of extra carbon fibre bling! Build of the chassis parts has gone okay. Initially I fitted the plastic shock towers front and rear. On the plastic items the ball joints for the suspension arms just screw in tightly into the plastic. Then when I got home last night, my Atomic Carbon CF shock towers had arrived, so I fitted them instead. It's really nice that you can swap out the shock towers without having to undo the whole diff housing, as you do in other cars. Here's another CF bling shot So far I have identified two problems with following the build guide exactly to the letter. First is that the kit provides 5mm M3 screws to hold the servo saver and steering assembly under the front chassis brace. These screws are too short and will need to be swapped out to longer items (centre screw in picture below) Second is that I went for a zero kick up setup for the rear arms, and some extra spacers will be needed to stop the rear arms from wiggling backwards and forwards (see picture below) I'll post more as I progress through the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickstar Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Where did you get the di-noc from, thats a nice touch on the underside of chassis, ( please dont go bashing with it ) lol looks to nice for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Are you planing on using bigger wheels and tires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspnet Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Will be reading this with interest as I have a 410 kit sitting next to me as I type, but the busy demands of a toddler means my build is going to be a lot slower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilllad83 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 (edited) what's ur plan for elecs? Just done a dex210 and want a 410 If this 2wd stays in one piece lol nice colour choice btw Edited August 17, 2013 by lilllad83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Build notes for sections 20 - 32 I had a good building session last night, completing the rolling chassis. Now it's pretty much just the shocks left to build and mount. Before starting section 20 I swapped the loose screw holding the servo saver for a 10mm M3 from my toolbox. I also added a spacer from Plastic tree 390024 to the rear arms, so there is now no more forwards/ backwards slop. Generally the remaining chassis build went very well. Again a couple of points where the manual leaves you in doubt as to which parts it is talking about: Steps 23 and 24. When building up the front and rear CV driveshafts, use thread lock very sparingly. When I built my first one the threadlock spread out through the CV joint and seized everything up. I had to take it apart, clean it and start again. Didn't make a mistake for the other thee! I also found last night a masterclass of building CVDs on the Durango Blog, but you need extra items (CVD Boots and extra grub screws) to build it like they do. http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2009/12/09/bullet-proofing-your-cvds/ Step 25. Steering hub plastic components are on two different plastic trees 340071 and 330125, which had me confused for a bit. Step 28. The plastic spacer you need in this step is not labelled properly, but it is spacer is number 3 on plastic tree 390024 Step 30 and 31. I built up the front and rear turnbuckles to the lengths described in the manual (21mm front, 20mm rear). Remember that when building a turnbuckle, one thread runs in the opposite direction to the other. In the Durango kit the reverse threaded end of the CVD has a little notch on it so you can identify it (Image below is from durango blog and shows the notch near the builders fingers). When I fitted them on, I found that my CVDs were barely slotting into the diff cups. What had I done! Well I realised that I had not put the ball joints into the stock positions on the front and rear shock towers. You must use the stock positions for the ball joints (shown in pictures below) with the stock turnbuckle lengths. I moved them to the middle inner position on the shock towers, and all was good. Front: Rear: Step 32. When I fitted the cover for the front diff housing (310038), I found my steering assembly was binding really badly. It turns out that the output of the front diff must be angled exactly to fit into the circular support / guide (310039) that you fit in step 8. The picture below shows everything fitting perfectly, and it took me a few goes fitting the front diff before it slipped into place. So I am very happy at this point. Everything is moving and rotating freely, ready for the final fitment of the shocks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 To answer questions 3M Di-Noc came from SK Vinyl on Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspnet Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 What diff oils did you go for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 20k, and 30w for the shocks. It's what I had in the house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Steps 33-38 Just finished building and fitting the shocks. Not too much in the way of problems. Section 34 : The lower joint on the shocks is labelled 330001 in the manual. Actually the part you want is 330293-1 Section 36. Securing the top of the shock onto the shock tower posts part 330312-3 was a bit tricky. I had to hollow out a tiny bit of plastic from the hole in the shock cap to get it to fit. That's me all done until my electrics arrive. I'm also waiting on some Rit colouring to dye the yellow wheels black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) Fitting electrics I wired up my ESC and motor, but even with a minimal wiring job (ESC wired soldered straight onto solder tabs of motor, 4mm plugs wired into saddle packs) there still isn't going to be a lot of space to get all the electrics in. I even had to sand down the sides of the casing of my low profile servo to squeeze it in. Dyeing wheels and fitting tyres Yesterday the RIT dye arrived so I set to work dying the stock wheels black. I used 10g of RIT black powder in 200ml of boiling water in a tin can, and simmered it on the hob. I put the wheels in for 10 minutes and got a really nice deep and uniform black. Then I fitted Schumacher medium foams, and Schumacher blue spike tyres Here's the end result with the bodyshell on. Edited August 24, 2013 by ninjagaiden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 You are going to be really limited where you can run with these tires (bigger) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 Yep I think you're right. Thinking of building up some road tyres and some truggy tyres too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 24, 2013 Author Share Posted August 24, 2013 Electronics Just shoehorned in the electronics to see how it fits. Note the unusual receiver placement by the motor! I thought about swapping out the cap pack for a smaller one, but I'll get more punch with the big cap. Also pleased that the ESC fan lines up with the blowhole I made in the shell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 Finished! Fiddled round with the electronics install to get it cleaner. Also I drilled out the left hand plastic chassis guard to hold my Rx, and zip ties it to a longer M3 x 25 screw. Everything works. Also painted the rear wing flat black with some carbon firbre wrap (well you know me!). Just need some drier weather to maiden it ... rear wing not quite straight. Damn! Look, the hold down rings for the rear wing match the orange colour! Electrics install tidied up. Rx dropped into plastic chassis guard and tied to a longer screw going through the chassis plate. Still a bit close to the pinion for my liking though. Low and narrow, Durango style! Hope the ground dries up tomorrow for a maiden run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickstar Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Nice job, looks sweet with those tyres despite limited terrain,( please dont screatch her lol ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 Just went and maidened her on some packed dirt and short grass. Even with the shocks set at 'Freelander' height I am still really impressed at how she corners. I was thinking I was going to have to get the sway bar upgrades from the 410 but actually she was nice and flat through the corners anyway. She wasn't as quick as I thought she might be, but I suspect this was because of limited traction on the blue spikes. Only problem I had was a little stutter from the electrics, and the ESC fan has decided not to spin up. Checked the wiring and set off again and she behaved herself, and the temps stayed low, but still no ESC fan. Will have to have a look and see what is happening. Now she's had her tyres dirtied, here is 'Rango (as my 3 year old calls her) being introduced to 'The Family'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si Coe Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 I'm surprised you didn't find it quick - mine is ballistic. Mind you it looks like you have a pretty small pinion there - what are you running? I use a 23t pinion with my 6.5t and even then added a little boost of the esc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 I'm running a 21T pinion, with mild ESC settings. I think it was mainly the surface I was running on. I tried it again on trimmed grass and when the tyres hook up she really shifts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si Coe Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) I know what you mean. Over the last 2 weeks I've been doing summer school and the kids have (along with making rockets) been doing speed calculations. This included timed runs over 10m for my RC's. I wanted to use the 210 - it should be a little faster in a straight line and it looks way more bling, but the only place we could do this was the school yard. Unfortunately its very dusty due to building work and I just couldn't get it to hook up. So out came the 410 - 44mph on 2S in racing trim ie not geared for top speed. But thats not the interesting part. Because I did this every day (with a different group of kids) for 2 weeks I had a play with how much run-up I need to get that speed and its just over 5m. So it can go from stationary to 44mph in 5m and a little under a second! With your gearing I'd expect more around 40mph, but you'll be hitting that even faster! BTW your RC collection looks far too neat and clean. Do you actually run them? Edited August 26, 2013 by Si Coe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspnet Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Looking very nice I hadn't realised space was so tight inside...I'm going to struggle as my electrics are never that neat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 I know what you mean. Over the last 2 weeks I've been doing summer school and the kids have (along with making rockets) been doing speed calculations. This included timed runs over 10m for my RC's. I wanted to use the 210 - it should be a little faster in a straight line and it looks way more bling, but the only place we could do this was the school yard. Unfortunately its very dusty due to building work and I just couldn't get it to hook up. So out came the 410 - 44mph on 2S in racing trim ie not geared for top speed. But thats not the interesting part. Because I did this every day (with a different group of kids) for 2 weeks I had a play with how much run-up I need to get that speed and its just over 5m. So it can go from stationary to 44mph in 5m and a little under a second! With your gearing I'd expect more around 40mph, but you'll be hitting that even faster! BTW your RC collection looks far too neat and clean. Do you actually run them? Using RC cars to teach SUVAT equations. That is genius! I'm reserving judgement on acceleration until I get a run with some decent traction. Couple of the orange bodyshells are newly painted this summer, but the cars underneath are plenty dirty, believe me! N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Had problems with my Hobbyking 100 ESC, and have now swapped to a used Tekin RS Pro off Ebay. Install is very minimal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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