HPI Super 5 SC Flux (hereafter known as the Super 5)

[Chasman]

Thanks mate! Appreciate that

 

I use Go Pro cineform if I need to chop the clips up if they are too long and need highlights out and then to do the actual edit I just use Windows Movie Maker. This is a pretty basic editor but if you use a few tricks it's a powerful tool that's reliable and free!

 

Make sure you have it up to date as possible - Microsoft still support it with updates. I hope you've got a powerful PC by the way. The hero 3 HD footage can bring an average set up to it's knees with all the frames. Any more help mate feel free to drop me a PM and I'd be happy to help you out.

Cool thanks for the help. Nah my laptops a few years old now and will defo require an upgrade. Made a few vids but would like to add music and cut bits out etc so that sounds good enough for what I need.

Thanks dude

[Tug]

Cool thanks for the help. Nah my laptops a few years old now and will defo require an upgrade. Made a few vids but would like to add music and cut bits out etc so that sounds good enough for what I need.

Thanks dude

You'll need to upgrade alright! My PC is a reasonable machine, but struggles with my V1 Gopro. I have to shutdown all applications just to give it a fighting chance!

[Chasman]

You'll need to upgrade alright! My PC is a reasonable machine, but struggles with my V1 Gopro. I have to shutdown all applications just to give it a fighting chance!

Yep I understand this... Just tried my 1st video of some footage iv done. Taking forever and not even halfway through lol I need to invest in a new machine I think

[Noj]

any of you go-pro guys fancy being chase cam trucks for filming the 5ive.......

[Tug]

any of you go-pro guys fancy being chase cam trucks for filming the 5ive.......

Chase? Jog on! You know damn well I'll be in front and not behind!

[Noj]

       

 

I love an optomist

[Tug]

I love an optomist

Done.

Edited July 25, 2013 by The Admiral

[Noj]

did go boing....all trial and error as you well know....

[Tug]

did go boing....all trial and error as you well know....

And done.

Edited July 25, 2013 by The Admiral

[Chasman]

Just another quick question. Would 50-60C rate lipos be ok for this truck or should I order some higher C rated lipos?

[Tug]

Just another quick question. Would 50-60C rate lipos be ok for this truck or should I order some higher C rated lipos?

My 30C packs cope, they're 5000 mah, so about 150 amps. ESC is only 120, so that's really all you need.

[Chasman]

My 30C packs cope, they're 5000 mah, so about 150 amps. ESC is only 120, so that's really all you need.

Cool. Thanks

[Tug]

Cool. Thanks

Just remembered, I've had to red threadlock the two near side wheel nuts, they're notorious for coming loose. This is worth doing straight out of the box.

[Noj]

Plus one to the threadlock, not had any loosening since applying it, although I do carry a wrench in my pocket just in case.....

[RC Freaks]

Plus another one too. I check after every pack as the axles WILL DEFINITELY snap over big jumps if they come loose.

 

A few pages back I wrote a list of all the things to check over before your first run if you're interested.

[leo-rcc]

 

I swapped out the Castle/HPI setup in the HPI Super SC5 Flux for a Hobbywing Xerun sensored setup with lower KV but more torque (1800 rpm/v). Don't mind the ductape, that is to relieve any stresses on the cables.

[RC Freaks]

Looks good! Do I see modified battery trays too?

[Tug]

I swapped out the Castle/HPI setup in the HPI Super SC5 Flux for a Hobbywing Xerun sensored setup with lower KV but more torque (1800 rpm/v). Don't mind the ductape, that is to relieve any stresses on the cables.

What're the motor dimensions? What gear ratio?

[Noj]

Ooooh, different. How's it running? Have you simply removed the stock tray lids or screwed on something bigger?

[leo-rcc]

The motor dimensions are pretty much the same as the HPI 2200kv motor though I did need to pry the standard mounts open a little to get them to fit (maybe 1 mm tops) and then clamp them down again. I kept the gearing the same. I am running 6S with 16Ah for endurance (yes that is also why I changed the battery trays, it runs 2x 8000mAh 6S in parallel) and this sensored setup (though lower in top speed of course) will help in keeping this beast going longer. It is now moderately faster than with the original setup on 4S. I could have chosen the 2200kv Hobbywing setup and only have the sensor advantage in startup, but I think for this drive style the 1800kv with the silky smooth power delivery for me is the way to go.

 

I did have to do some cutting in the ESC tray to get the sensor cable out and the receiver wire and on/off switch on the other side. Luckily that plastic is soft so a couple of snips with the lexan scissors took care of that. The battery trays are 1 mm Titanium plates fixed on the original mounts.

[Jacksprogis]

Watch them Battery straps , They're useless Imo  

Jack.

[leo-rcc]

They've worked fine for me in the past though a bit fiddly to secure properly.

[RC Freaks]

Watch them Battery straps , They're useless Imo

Jack.

 

9 months and 500+ packs and no issues?

[Tug]

The motor dimensions are pretty much the same as the HPI 2200kv motor though I did need to pry the standard mounts open a little to get them to fit (maybe 1 mm tops) and then clamp them down again. I kept the gearing the same. I am running 6S with 16Ah for endurance (yes that is also why I changed the battery trays, it runs 2x 8000mAh 6S in parallel) and this sensored setup (though lower in top speed of course) will help in keeping this beast going longer. It is now moderately faster than with the original setup on 4S. I could have chosen the 2200kv Hobbywing setup and only have the sensor advantage in startup, but I think for this drive style the 1800kv with the silky smooth power delivery for me is the way to go.

I did have to do some cutting in the ESC tray to get the sensor cable out and the receiver wire and on/off switch on the other side. Luckily that plastic is soft so a couple of snips with the lexan scissors took care of that. The battery trays are 1 mm Titanium plates fixed on the original mounts.

I'd be gearing that 1800 up by at least 4 teeth, subject to a few test runs of course. I've got a CC 1518, 1800 kv sat doing nowt, might try fitting it to see if it runs cooler than the 2200. I've no spare pinnys for it though, mod 1 I believe?

[RC Freaks]

I'd be gearing that 1800 up by at least 4 teeth, subject to a few test runs of course. I've got a CC 1518, 1800 kv sat doing nowt, might try fitting it to see if it runs cooler than the 2200. I've no spare pinnys for it though, mod 1 I believe?

 

Mod 1, Yep!