Fat Freddy Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 @daveyboi73 Thanks fella, that’s awesome. Getting some flack about how much time/money I’m spending on this “cheap little car” but this is a mod I definitely plan to do. Its getting a bit like triggers broom, soon there won’t be much of the original car left. Am thinking that soon I’ll be able to reassemble all the original parts and sell it on flea bay as a “used Vantage” to pay for more hop ups 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Fly In My Soup said: You've reached you direct upload limit... You have two options... - sign upto a third party sharing/hosting site like imgur/Flickr.... Upload photos to their and copy the link into your posts here.. Or - buy a gold membership to this forum and get a 50mb direct upload every 12 months... (you also get other perks... Like being entered into competitions for free rc cars everytime we draw for a prize... Non gold members are not entered) Choice is yours dude👍 Firstly, apologies, this probably isn’t the right place for this but while I’m here.... Have to admit I have been toying with the gold membership anyway. More as a way of donating to this resource that’s been so helpful to me over the last few weeks than anything else but any associated perks would be good 👍 BUT..... Re “You've reached you direct upload limit... “ , I don’t think so.... I had a fish around in the menus and found “my attachments”. It said that I’d used 69% of my allowed upload data. Discovered that if I go back into old posts and delete the pics I get the allowance back. Deleted a couple of pics and it now says I’m at 60%. So so surely I have 40% left and should be able to post quite a lot more pics? However, when I’ve tried to upload pics recently I have repeatedly been told that I can only upload x amount of data, even though the pic I’m posting is significant smaller. A few times, I’ve tried again a couple of hours later and it’s worked. Other times I just get an error message and then it says upload failed. Over and over again. So am I missing something here, or is my a/c glitching out in some way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I simply went gold as I am finding this such a great forum. A chance at winning things is just a bonus 😜. Looking forward to seeing your custom painted body. I am planning on buying a Bugsta later and will get some bodies for that in the future. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 5 hours ago, Fat Freddy said: Firstly, apologies, this probably isn’t the right place for this but while I’m here.... Have to admit I have been toying with the gold membership anyway. More as a way of donating to this resource that’s been so helpful to me over the last few weeks than anything else but any associated perks would be good 👍 BUT..... Re “You've reached you direct upload limit... “ , I don’t think so.... I had a fish around in the menus and found “my attachments”. It said that I’d used 69% of my allowed upload data. Discovered that if I go back into old posts and delete the pics I get the allowance back. Deleted a couple of pics and it now says I’m at 60%. So so surely I have 40% left and should be able to post quite a lot more pics? However, when I’ve tried to upload pics recently I have repeatedly been told that I can only upload x amount of data, even though the pic I’m posting is significant smaller. A few times, I’ve tried again a couple of hours later and it’s worked. Other times I just get an error message and then it says upload failed. Over and over again. So am I missing something here, or is my a/c glitching out in some way? Yeah I think you get 2mb free with any standard membership... 50mb is provided when going gold membership... Not sure if your issue can be resolved by deleting pics to free up space..... I used to do this myself when I first joined.. But I unsure if that still works ... Then I started doing build threads so needed more mb direct upload.... As it was just far easier than using imgur for me personally.... And also... The wealth of info stored here on msuk is quite simply awe inspiring.... Its funny.... When I still Google some random / obscure rc issue.... I find Google directs me straight back to here to threads from members like 10 years ago.... Which is pretty amazing....and for me... Formed part of the reason I decided to go gold and do my part for keeping this community standing.... (forums are becoming ghost towns thanks to Facebook, thankfully... This one is still going strong... Thanks largely to its dedicated community) Anywhoo.... I'll stop with the sales pitch... 🤣🤣🤣 P. S. If you can't go gold right now... You can always use a third party hosting site to upload your pics onto their site... Then from there.. Onto here... Third party hosting sites are mostly free 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Anyone seen these on aliexpress? Full carbon upgrade rollers by vrx racing. They are just the ftx carnage and vantage under another name. They have both types. The price is not bad for what you get when you think of how much you would pay for all those carbon and aluminum parts from ftx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 2 hours ago, Addwhite said: Anyone seen these on aliexpress? Full carbon upgrade rollers by vrx racing. They are just the ftx carnage and vantage under another name. They have both types. The price is not bad for what you get when you think of how much you would pay for all those carbon and aluminum parts from ftx. River hobby who VRX racing is the sub brand of, supply FTX, Redcat and integy and hobbyking etc with these chassis They are good value though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 20 hours ago, daveyboi73 said: River hobby who VRX racing is the sub brand of, supply FTX, Redcat and integy and hobbyking etc with these chassis They are good value though Workout what your be upgrading if the cost is more than a whole new truck go for it👍 If on the other hand you dont own a truck yet and will be upgrading a stock unit then these are a better buy from the start 👍 i was going to go this route for my vantage but decided I probably wouldn’t need all the upgrades these have so just bought the Hobbyking Vandal kit instead couple of cheapish upgrades and I’m happy with it and still cheaper than the pro version although you don’t get all the goodies 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin"s Dad Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 New to this forum, and hoping someone can help with some advice. My son bought an FTX Carnage last week, he's loving it so far, however the last time we used it there seemed to be no real drive to the rear wheels. I have had a good look and it seems one of the rear wheels is spinning on the hub. Took that wheel and the hexagonal hub off, and I can see that the hub can easily be rotated in the wheel, some plastic must have been stripped away. This probably happened as a load of long grass got wrapped round the wheel and made it stop. So my question is, which is most likely to have been stripped the plastic of the wheel, or the hub itself, so which do I replace? Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Austin"s Dad said: New to this forum, and hoping someone can help with some advice. My son bought an FTX Carnage last week, he's loving it so far, however the last time we used it there seemed to be no real drive to the rear wheels. I have had a good look and it seems one of the rear wheels is spinning on the hub. Took that wheel and the hexagonal hub off, and I can see that the hub can easily be rotated in the wheel, some plastic must have been stripped away. This probably happened as a load of long grass got wrapped round the wheel and made it stop. So my question is, which is most likely to have been stripped the plastic of the wheel, or the hub itself, so which do I replace? Thanks for any help! This is a common problem with the standard carnage wheels. The wheel nut comes loose slightly and causes the wheel to slip on the hex. You will probably need to replace the wheel and hex nut when this happens as it rounds out the wheel hex. If your carnage has the star washer and lock nut combo holding on the wheels the first thing you need to do is replace those with 4mm flanged lock nuts. Like the blue anodised ones on modelsport under the carnage spares option. Drop a small amount of locktite on the thread ( doesnt need much ) and screw on the nut. Leave over night for the locktite to set and thats it.... They should stay tight and you should have no further issues. The other thing i would change is the brass pinion for an rw racing 0.6mod hardend steel one. Just some cheap little hop ups like that can make all the difference. Edited September 21, 2019 by Addwhite 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 +1 on @Addwhite 's advice except, if you using loctite on wheelnuts, make sure it's the removable kind but tbh I don't think loctite necessary, just check they all right before each bash. 😀👍 45 minutes ago, Addwhite said: This is a common problem with the standard carnage wheels. The wheel nut comes loose slightly and causes the wheel to slip on the hex. You will probably need to replace the wheel and hex nut when this happens as it rounds out the wheel hex. If your carnage has the star washer and lock nut combo holding on the wheels the first thing you need to do is replace those with 4mm flanged lock nuts. Like the blue anodised ones on modelsport under the carnage spares option. Drop a small amount of locktite on the thread ( doesnt need much ) and screw on the nut. Leave over night for the locktite to set and thats it.... They should stay tight and you should have no further issues. The other thing i would change is the brass pinion for an rw racing 0.6mod hardend steel one. Just some cheap little hop ups like that can make all the difference. 4 hours ago, Austin"s Dad said: New to this forum, and hoping someone can help with some advice. My son bought an FTX Carnage last week, he's loving it so far, however the last time we used it there seemed to be no real drive to the rear wheels. I have had a good look and it seems one of the rear wheels is spinning on the hub. Took that wheel and the hexagonal hub off, and I can see that the hub can easily be rotated in the wheel, some plastic must have been stripped away. This probably happened as a load of long grass got wrapped round the wheel and made it stop. So my question is, which is most likely to have been stripped the plastic of the wheel, or the hub itself, so which do I replace? Thanks for any help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 10 minutes ago, Fat Freddy said: +1 on @Addwhite 's advice except, if you using loctite on wheelnuts, make sure it's the removable kind but tbh I don't think loctite necessary, just check they all right before each bash. 😀👍 Yes thats true, i have to use a dab of loctite on mine as i dont use the standard ftx wheels anymore and the wheel nut doesnt go on as far. Best to not use it if possible like you say, as it messes the threads up after a while too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 Has anyone tried the fastrax jigsaw 1/10 wheels and tiers on the carnage??... Nice looking wheels but i notice they are available in 0 offset or 1/2inch offset.... I have no idea what would be best suited to the carnage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 Locktite. Oh the flashbacks. I put on lock tite because I didn't have any nyloc nuts at the time. Once I got proper nyloc nuts, I put it on the shaft. But the existing Locktite sized the nut onto the shaft. I lost an aluminium hex hub, a shaft, a knuckle and a nut just because Locktite. Please just use nyloc nuts without anything else. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 You can also just use an M4 serrated washer behind the wheelnut. Works well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 22 hours ago, Jamil237237 said: Locktite. Oh the flashbacks. I put on lock tite because I didn't have any nyloc nuts at the time. Once I got proper nyloc nuts, I put it on the shaft. But the existing Locktite sized the nut onto the shaft. I lost an aluminium hex hub, a shaft, a knuckle and a nut just because Locktite. Please just use nyloc nuts without anything else. 😲 wow... Ok so im going to trust you guys on this. New flanged nuts now on with NO loctite... 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Do the flanged nuts have a nyloc section on the end? If not they will defo come loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 1 hour ago, PH001 said: Do the flanged nuts have a nyloc section on the end? If not they will defo come loose. Yep, usually nyloc. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil H Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) Hi, I'm a new RC'er (ish - after a grasshopper when I was 12) and I have bought the FTX Outlaw and FTX Vantage, I'm hoping to join a club and learn the RC'ing. Does anyone have any tips for me regarding these cars? Any and all information is appreciated as Im pretty newb at this after 20+ years out of RC. Thanks in advance Edited September 25, 2019 by Phil H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 Well the Outlaw has some weak points you will discover as you play around with it, but its still a fun lil RC. The Vantage is also a fine RC and definately a bit more robust then the Outlaw. Question is the versions you bought are they brushed or Brushless? I am myself looking to gettin into a bit of rc racing with a club, but my nearest is Plymouth and a good 45 mins drive from me. Now if they are both the brushed versions firstly i recommend running a 2s lipo 4000 mAh or bigger mAh to get the best you will get out of a brushed RC (i.e more acceleration and duration). Run them like that for a bit to see how you get on before you choose to upgrade to brushless. IMPORTANT! Adjust the ESC accordingly to the instructions with each to be sure you have the cutoff in play as not to over drain the Lipo Battery. Hope this helps and makes sense to you. Have fun find a RC club near you and you will soon learn alot more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 3 minutes ago, Viper1968 said: Now if they are both the brushed versions firstly i recommend running a 2s lipo 4000 mAh or bigger mAh to get the best you will get out of a brushed RC (i.e more acceleration and duration). Run them like that for a bit to see how you get on before you choose to upgrade to brushless You will almost certainly kill the brushed Vantage electronics running a LIPO on it. ESC usually dies first, quickly followed by an overheated motor. They just can't handle the low impedance of high capacity LIPO cells. In terms of mods for the Vantage, about £60 sorts it: 1) RW hardened acetal spur - £9.95 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hardened-acetal-ftx-65t-spur-gear-vantage-carnage-banzai-hooligan-bugsta/rc-car-products/432730 2) RW hardened steel pinion - £3.65 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-6-pinion-23-teeth/rc-car-products/13762 3) Aluminium front suspension pin holder - £10.92 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-aluminium-front-suspension-holders-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365798 4) Aluminium rear suspension pin holder - £10.92 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-aluminium-rear-suspension-holders-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365799 5) Carnage front bumper - £3.32 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-bumper-set-carnage-outlaw/rc-car-products/365911 6) Carbon upper chassis plate (essential if you are fitting the Carnage front bumper) - £18.04 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-upper-plate-carbon-vantage/rc-car-products/365808 7) Motor heatsink - £2.99 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-carnage-heatsink-1pc-blue/rc-car-products/371076 So for an additional £60 you have a pretty fast tough buggy. I'd also change out the steering servo but that's more optional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) Well I ended up upgrading to brushless and putting the old esc and motor into a kit absima so never ran into either esc or motor burnout so my bad on that bit lol. Granted the dern esc did go on the absima and i bought a cheap one to replace it and cant say the motor is performing like it did wiht lipo on the original esc. The thing is so tame now with the lipo with the replacement esc i put in. its a basic hobbywing esc in it now and wonder if changing the motor wo a better brushed would help with the top end again? Edited September 25, 2019 by Viper1968 added more and a question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper1968 Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) The Absima is a Hotshot and i have to say definately not up to the same standard to me as a FTX vantage. its got bushings not Bearings in the wheel hubs. So on the subject of the performance being dismall using lipo now with it as the esc has two settings via a pin connector for Lipo or NiMH packs and a pic connector for forward/reverse brake or just F/R. I dont want to go brushless with it as its used by my 10 year old grandson who already managed to break off the front bumper requiring me to buy a new chassis (overpriced OMG compared to FTX stuff btw). Definately recommend FTX over Absima as a personal preference that is. So on the front of better performance with a brushed setup what would you lot recommend puttin into the Abs Hotshot that will run in Lipo's with this cheap hobbywing ESC? Sorry i know its a carnage /Vantage thread so as this is the case my Vantage is run onroad atm and needs a decent set of tyres for said road as of course now its Brushless the stock ones are worn out rather fast Edited September 25, 2019 by Viper1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) Hello to everyone, this is my first post here and English is really not my primary language, so please excuse me for any stupidities i write 😁 Well, about a month ago i ordered my first RC and i decided that i try with the carnage. (officially it was ordered for my son, but it is way to fast for him, so he is not allowed to drive. He is 2,5 years old 😁) First thing i learned is, that it does not deal with crashes very well. I mostly bash it around my house and it quickly gets broken. Front driveshafts are my biggest problem, as they bent very easy. I am straightening them all the time, it is easy, but i am really tired of this... Are there any stronger alternatives, or we will need to make them from better steel? Same story is with shock shafts, they bent very quickly... As i crash alot, i quickly destroyed the front bumper, tearing the plastic on the bottom where it bolts to chassis. The second one didnt last a week, so i decided to do a little reinforcment. I used 1mm alu sheet, bolted on the bottom of the chassis and to the front of the bumper. Works very well. I can make a picture if anyone is interrested... My original brushed motor had burned the brushes after putting the lipo in, so it was no brainer to put the brushless setup in. I went with cheap Turnigy trackstar waterproof system with 3520kv motor and 80A ESC. Well of course i was shocked about the speed and accelerations, but i am slowly getting used to it. I think the wheels are the worst thing on this car. They started to turn on the hexes one by one. I had new hexes in spares, but the wheel hex was allready rounded so had to do some improvisation. I permanently fixed it into the wheel, using a soldering iron. Did actually reshaped the wheel hex and kind a plastic welded them together. I did it on all four wheels and no problems after this bodge job. Only thing is that when mounting them on the shaft you must watch very carefull that it sits on the pin and that the pin doesnt fall out. Oh yes, and i use loctite now everywhere except on plastics. Dont be afraid to use loctite, but use the real stuff, not some chinese cheap stuff... I use regular loctite 243 and it holds just right. I lost a pin from the central driveshaft, for the new one i used loctite 603 and it holds in better than original... So, -are there any alternatives for front driveshafts? -do the upgraded alu shocks have any stronger shafts? -which wheels and tyres to buy, that will have better tolerances on the hex part? also the original tyres balloon to much for my opinion... -should i think about the modification to 17mm hexes? Edited September 25, 2019 by zlab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 26, 2019 Share Posted September 26, 2019 12 hours ago, zlab said: Hello to everyone, this is my first post here and English is really not my primary language, so please excuse me for any stupidities i write 😁 Well, about a month ago i ordered my first RC and i decided that i try with the carnage. (officially it was ordered for my son, but it is way to fast for him, so he is not allowed to drive. He is 2,5 years old 😁) First thing i learned is, that it does not deal with crashes very well. I mostly bash it around my house and it quickly gets broken. Front driveshafts are my biggest problem, as they bent very easy. I am straightening them all the time, it is easy, but i am really tired of this... Are there any stronger alternatives, or we will need to make them from better steel? Same story is with shock shafts, they bent very quickly... As i crash alot, i quickly destroyed the front bumper, tearing the plastic on the bottom where it bolts to chassis. The second one didnt last a week, so i decided to do a little reinforcment. I used 1mm alu sheet, bolted on the bottom of the chassis and to the front of the bumper. Works very well. I can make a picture if anyone is interrested... My original brushed motor had burned the brushes after putting the lipo in, so it was no brainer to put the brushless setup in. I went with cheap Turnigy trackstar waterproof system with 3520kv motor and 80A ESC. Well of course i was shocked about the speed and accelerations, but i am slowly getting used to it. I think the wheels are the worst thing on this car. They started to turn on the hexes one by one. I had new hexes in spares, but the wheel hex was allready rounded so had to do some improvisation. I permanently fixed it into the wheel, using a soldering iron. Did actually reshaped the wheel hex and kind a plastic welded them together. I did it on all four wheels and no problems after this bodge job. Only thing is that when mounting them on the shaft you must watch very carefull that it sits on the pin and that the pin doesnt fall out. Oh yes, and i use loctite now everywhere except on plastics. Dont be afraid to use loctite, but use the real stuff, not some chinese cheap stuff... I use regular loctite 243 and it holds just right. I lost a pin from the central driveshaft, for the new one i used loctite 603 and it holds in better than original... So, -are there any alternatives for front driveshafts? -do the upgraded alu shocks have any stronger shafts? -which wheels and tyres to buy, that will have better tolerances on the hex part? also the original tyres balloon to much for my opinion... -should i think about the modification to 17mm hexes? Thats quite a quick rc to be bashing around the house 😂... If you hit a lot of solid objects those parts will break. Where as just general crashes and flips when your out in a large open space these things hold up pretty well. I flip mine a lot at high speeds and the only thing that suffers is mainly the body. As far as im aware there is not a lot you can do about the front cvd shafts. They do bend though, so maybe someone else may know of something you can try, and at £10+ a pair i know replacing those gets annoying after a while. As for wheels i have tried quite a lot. I had great results with the fastrax Rr block tyres all round. Part no. Fast0033 they performe great on grass and dirt. Not sure how long they would last on tarmac as they are studds. Harder compound and inserts than the stock carnage wheels so do not really balloon. Much stronger hex's tho. For rougher terrain i would stick with the carnage wheels or similar. Any 12mm hex wheels should fit. All depends what surface you mainly run on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 (edited) Ok so ive just picked up a quanum vandal roller for cheap. No esc, motor, radio gear etc. My plan is to get as much speed out of this thing as i can on 2s. In my carnage im running a 4000kv motor and its quick. But with the vandal im thinking about doing tarmac runs etc so was wondering if a 4600kv combo would be ok? I thought that would give great top speed and the acceleration may not suffer too much.... The other option i was looking at was the ezrun 5400kv combo. But thought this may be too much if i wanted to run this thing off road. What are your thoughts? I will of course upgrade the top plate, arm holders etc too. I do have a hobbyking x car 120amp esc laying around so thought i could use that maybe. Should be able to handle most motors on 2s. Edited September 29, 2019 by Addwhite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.