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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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16 hours ago, Jay R said:

Just remember that all the ones this size you have to cut away a lot of the side and around to the front bumper to give the wheels room.

Not expecting much from it, at £9.50 INCLUDING shipping, not too bothered if I have to hack it up to make it fit. 

1 hour ago, Viper1968 said:

On the subject of body shells, I have to say those shells look really cool on that model. Anyone tried or use different shells on the Vantage? 

Watch this space. Mines a vantage (with a carnage bumper and wheels/tyres) so not as wide as a carnage. Will probably have to do a fair bit of cutting to make it fit. Have to wait a month for it to arrive tho. 

 

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1 hour ago, Viper1968 said:

Oh and  Freddy grats on finding the issue with your model, definitely something for me to watch out for, or think about when I change parts. It's something that can easily be missed it seems. 

Thanks.

Because I couldn’t feel any resistance in the transmission when working on it, I was convinced it had to be an electrical/electronic issue.

I was wrong, but as a result have a better Esc, better batteries, and better motor so not all bad (except my wallet is a bit lighter 😂).

Lesson learned. 

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Hi gents,  have a question for you all.

 

My son and I have a Carnage and Vantage brushless.  

I have at home from a previous project a aheet of 3 mm carbon fibre

 

Has anyone tried making their own carbon top plates? I'm fairly handy with a Dremel, and have done a 'trial' battery hold down bar, which I'm fairly happy with the strength and weight of, and thats before i even cut any openings into it.

 

Just wondering if anyone else has tried anything like this or am I being daft?

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It’s not worth the health risks, especially for your son. Unless you have a very controlled environment dremmeling and cutting should be left well alone as carbon fibre is not too different to asbestos.

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2 hours ago, Nickarla said:

It’s not worth the health risks, especially for your son. Unless you have a very controlled environment dremmeling and cutting should be left well alone as carbon fibre is not too different to asbestos.

 

Really ?  I didn’t know that and I’ve been cutting it for years just wearing a mask. So it’s the same as asbestos and the dust particles give you cancer ? 

 

Too late for me but at least others might be more aware you’d think they’d ban the use of it like asbestos was and just think how many things this day and age are made from carbon fibre 😱 mans that’s some scary thought right there 

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11 hours ago, Dave Leppard said:

Hi gents,  have a question for you all.

 

My son and I have a Carnage and Vantage brushless.  

I have at home from a previous project a aheet of 3 mm carbon fibre

 

Has anyone tried making their own carbon top plates? I'm fairly handy with a Dremel, and have done a 'trial' battery hold down bar, which I'm fairly happy with the strength and weight of, and thats before i even cut any openings into it.

 

Just wondering if anyone else has tried anything like this or am I being daft?

At only about £20 for a carbon top plate, even setting aside the health risks, the time it would take to cut to shape and drill, I personally wouldn’t have thought it worth the effort.

 

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12 hours ago, Dave Leppard said:

Hi gents,  have a question for you all.

 

My son and I have a Carnage and Vantage brushless.  

I have at home from a previous project a aheet of 3 mm carbon fibre

 

Has anyone tried making their own carbon top plates? I'm fairly handy with a Dremel, and have done a 'trial' battery hold down bar, which I'm fairly happy with the strength and weight of, and thats before i even cut any openings into it.

 

Just wondering if anyone else has tried anything like this or am I being daft?

 

Just wear a rebreather mask and you'll be fine.... I always prefer to build not buy

 

Also... Wetting the carbon every now and again will help with dust.... 

 

I prefer using a jigsaw..... Then move to dremel.... 

 

Make sure you thoroughly wash your hands /arms afterwards... Before you remove the mask.... 

 

 

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48 minutes ago, Fly In My Soup said:

 

Just wear a rebreather mask and you'll be fine.... I always prefer to build not buy

 

Also... Wetting the carbon every now and again will help with dust.... 

 

I prefer using a jigsaw..... Then move to dremel.... 

 

Make sure you thoroughly wash your hands /arms afterwards... Before you remove the mask.... 

 

 

 Thank good for that I thought I was doomed a minute ago 👍🤣

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Masks rated for asbestos are what you are looking for. This as a minimum really. Watch out for transfer of particles as well. Many take precautions and thinks nothing about walking in to their house wearing the protective gear they used to cut it with.

 

Saying all that it’s often the worry that causes more problems. It does have a similar structure to asbestos so just be aware. My Dad had colleagues die from asbestos but they were exposed on an industrial scale when lagging pipes in the hulls of ships.  It’s not really heard of from people outside of that sort of exposure but nevertheless take care.

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Did some basic research and the reason it's probabaly not banned is because although it has some ass best toss type qualities, it's less harmfull. And since its used in performance applications and not everyday appliances like ass best toss, the exposure to it is much less. 

 

 

One thing though, cutting anything gives of dust particulates which will give you more chances of cancer. Wood, cancer, plastic, cancer. Pretty much everything gives you cancer. The way it causes damage is by the fact that it's very hard or impossible to get rid of theese particulates when they're in your chest. They're so strong they don't degrade in your lungs. 

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Anyone on here fitted one of these goolrc combos? 

This seems to cheap to be any good surely?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183870643259

£24 for a BL motor AND esc??

 

IF, I get any positive feedback on these from you guys, I might take the plunge. I’m already using 2s lipo, would that be a good match to this combo?

Edited by Fat Freddy
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These combos are ok on 2S. They dont last long on 3S. For a vantage with stock wheels the 4300kv motor on 2S will be ok.If you want to fit bigger wheels etc, id reccomend going for under 4000kv, to prevent cogging and overheating. I use the 3800kv combo from goolrc in my outlaw, had it for over a year now, and had no problems .

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18 minutes ago, daveyboi73 said:

These combos are ok on 2S. They dont last long on 3S. For a vantage with stock wheels the 4300kv motor on 2S will be ok.If you want to fit bigger wheels etc, id reccomend going for under 4000kv, to prevent cogging and overheating. I use the 3800kv combo from goolrc in my outlaw, had it for over a year now, and had no problems .

(Thanks....The hardened steel spur gear you sold me is excellent btw. Am very happy with my purchase 😁👍)

 

Re THIS topic...

Have ZERO knowledge of brushless!

I feel another steep learning curve coming on 😂

 

So why would a lower KV motor be better? Surely higher KV = higher power? Or is it like with brushed where more turns means more torque and less means more speed?

 

And I DO have bigger wheels, but adjust the gearing accordingly (running your .32 spur with a 13t pinion atm), wouldn’t that be the same as (or similar to) using a 16t pinion with the stock wheels?

 

And finally, what is cogging?

 

 

 

 

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Higher KV just means more revs per volt so higher rotational speed. The problem comes when the gearing is such that the loading on the motor never allows it to reach full speed (such as it would by holding the car in the air for example). This in turn makes the motor run much hotter. A lower KV means the motor has enough torque to reach it's full free running speed at which point the losses come right down and everything runs tickety boo.

 

Cogging is the intermittent (i.e. not smooth) operation of the motor at very low duty cycles which makes them fairly unpleasant at low speeds.

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9 minutes ago, PH001 said:

Higher KV just means more revs per volt so higher rotational speed. The problem comes when the gearing is such that the loading on the motor never allows it to reach full speed (such as it would by holding the car in the air for example). This in turn makes the motor run much hotter. A lower KV means the motor has enough torque to reach it's full free running speed at which point the losses come right down and everything runs tickety boo.

 

Cogging is the intermittent (i.e. not smooth) operation of the motor at very low duty cycles which makes them fairly unpleasant at low speeds.

Ah, ok, that makes sense, thanks. 

 

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883E22EE-86F2-4106-9272-FE535E3309D7.jpeg.0f7918cff7d67c778865cf79d71431ec.jpeg

@locky posted these charts in General Electric. Enormously helpful guide to choosing the right motor.  

From what I can gather a vantage won’t last long on a 3s, so assuming most of us running 2s, as you can see, using the theory below ( that 30,000rpm is the sweet spot ) a 4000kv motor should be ideal.

But I’m inclined to think that, allowing for the extra drag 4wd brings, a 3800kv motor might be a better choice??

 

535592d1262137211-1-8-brushless-motor-rpm-chart-brushless-motor-setups.jpg

Or am I misinterpreting the charts? Or is any of this really that critical at relatively low (2s) voltage?

 

[When I first came to this forum after a 30 yr break from RC I barely understood what most of you were talking about. It’s nice to have learned so much in the last few weeks 😁👍]

Edited by Fat Freddy
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OK peeps I'm looking for recommendations on tyres for my Vantage as now it's brushless and shifts like lightning the stock tyres are now on the edge of being bald as I have run a few tests drives in my parking area. Obviously I want two sets, one for onroad and a set for offroad/track. Running mydoddy69 brushless 3650 3900kv and oh my its nippy lol. Got an absima esc in it also. 

Edited by Viper1968
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1 hour ago, Fat Freddy said:

883E22EE-86F2-4106-9272-FE535E3309D7.jpeg.0f7918cff7d67c778865cf79d71431ec.jpeg

@locky posted these charts in General Electric. Enormously helpful guide to choosing the right motor.  

From what I can gather a vantage won’t last long on a 3s, so assuming most of us running 2s, as you can see, using the theory below ( that 30,000rpm is the sweet spot ) a 4000kv motor should be ideal.

But I’m inclined to think that, allowing for the extra drag 4wd brings, a 3800kv motor might be a better choice??

 

535592d1262137211-1-8-brushless-motor-rpm-chart-brushless-motor-setups.jpg

Or am I misinterpreting the charts? Or is any of this really that critical at relatively low (2s) voltage?

 

[When I first came to this forum after a 30 yr break from RC I barely understood what most of you were talking about. It’s nice to have learned so much in the last few weeks 😁👍]

 

This is a great easy to understand table. Do have to take the info with a pinch of salt though. For example the Arrma Kraton 6S comes with a 2050kV motor as standard which is way outside the recommended range going by this.

 

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8 minutes ago, PH001 said:

 

This is a great easy to understand table. Do have to take the info with a pinch of salt though. For example the Arrma Kraton 6S comes with a 2050kV motor as standard which is way outside the recommended range going by this.

 

Hmmm, good point. Can’t vouch for the veracity of the info I posted (don’t believe everything you see on t’interweb! 😂)...  But you are assuming that manufacturers really care about long term efficiency and aren’t just going for “straight out of the box” wow factor (and after sales spares revenue?).

 

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Dunno. All I can say is that the motor doesn't seem to run particularly hot on 6S.... and that's without any kind of heatsink. I guess it's just geared for it appropriately.

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