PurcyP Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 i rebuilt the shock before my first race day with the vantage yesterday, im glad i did, 30wt oil and the right preload soaked up the harsh jumps of my local astro track fantastically and nothing broke! ..somehow lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wraithstorm67 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I used 450 cst from core-rc makes my vantage handle so much better I did think it might be a bit heavy I use the same in my savvys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nivermind Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 at this moment im just waiting for my ftx carnage (brushless) getting delivered from model sport, hopefully be here in a day or two. i was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of what i should do before running? anything that needs checked, or tightned or is it just charge the batteries up and go for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I used 450 cst from core-rc makes my vantage handle so much better I did think it might be a bit heavy I use the same in my savvys 450cst in factory team area is what around 35wt? so nah not that heavy! i use 30wt front n back and works very well at this moment im just waiting for my ftx carnage (brushless) getting delivered from model sport, hopefully be here in a day or two. i was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of what i should do before running? anything that needs checked, or tightned or is it just charge the batteries up and go for it? Just give it a once over mate, make sure no screws are super loose etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nivermind Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Cheers mate, was going to any way but wasn't sure if it had any pacific problems to watch out for from the box. Watched a lot of videos and read most of this thread already do I know things go wrong and break. Prepared for that. Brothers got a brushless lunchbox which is fun, just was time to get my own and not break his lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Check the mesh between pinion and spur. Mine was way too close and it seems that someone elses was too big. Should be factory set correctly but it's always best to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diago999 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Also as stupid as this may sound, make sure the battery holder is on tight, I managed to crack 2 lipo cases because they were slightly free to move around, not smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nivermind Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 all noted for when i get the thing, the tracking says it should be here on thrusday so fingers crossed it will be. cant wait, the videos and what not ive seen makes it look so much fun and a ferly durable wee thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 guys on the brushed setup i tried a 40c lipo on it for giggles at the track and now i want to buy lipos. i know it will probably kill the ESC etc eventually but will 50c be alright or will it just annihilate everything, the car handled 40c fine and didnt even get midly warm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonG Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 guys on the brushed setup i tried a 40c lipo on it for giggles at the track and now i want to buy lipos. i know it will probably kill the ESC etc eventually but will 50c be alright or will it just annihilate everything, the car handled 40c fine and didnt even get midly warm The C rating won't make any real difference, it's just the amount of power the battery is able to deliver. The power draw will be based on what motor/ESC you have, so on the factory brushed setup this won't be a huge amount. So don't spend loads on batteries, a 20C rated one will be just as good. You can get a hardcase lipo for under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 So the 40c i tried was in fact only pushing out 20c? yeah the manual says it will damage the ESC not the lipo but i already know ill need a cut off so will get one of them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonG Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Not sure I believe the manual on that, but I could be wrong. I think as long as you stick to a 2S lipo it shouldn't hurt the ESC, as it won't be over-volting it and the ESC decides how much current to draw from the battery. Re. the C rating, this is just a rating of how much current the lipo can deliver at one time, so if your motor/ESC is getting as much current as it wants then a higher C rating won't make any difference. You can do the maths on how much current the motor can pull at max, but my bet would be that it's not going to need more than a 20C lipo to deliver that. A 4000maH lipo with a 20C rating can deliver 80A peak current, which is plenty for a simple brushed setup. If you can borrow some different C rated lipos and test back-to-back then you should be able to confirm this, but all I'm saying is don't go out and buy a lipo with a high C rating thinking it will give more power. The battery can be a bottleneck for power delivery, which is why the lipos improve things, but the motor/ESC is what defines the maximum power you can deliver to the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 (edited) Yeah the manual i quote "Do not use lipo batteries as this can permanently damage the ESC" they probably think you are going to try and run orion carbon 11v lipos or something as 2s is fine like i said i had a go on 40c and it was fast, but 20c i mean looking at hobbyking, i can get turnigy hardcase 30c lipos..and thats cheap! so instead of doing the math i may as well just get whatever is cheapest, obviously turnigy arent terrible lipos people use em but i am finding 20c isnt as cheap as 30c on hobbyking for example Edited May 8, 2013 by PurcyP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonG Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Yup, get whatever is cheapest for the capacity you want. A lot of people use the Turnigy ones and like them, and the Gens Ace lipos from giantshark are good too, check which site is cheaper overall with delivery. If you're not racing it then no need to spend more! Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 haha cheers i look forward to the eventually seeing a fireball that is my buggy cos the lipos have set the esc alight haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT2driver Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Just taken my vantage out a couple of times and its very quick but very fragile... Broke the rear shock tower 1st time (got the carbon upgrade). Second time out I had a small altercation with a tree and broke the front bumper and front chassis plate and front diff... Waiting for parts now. Parts are cheap so I'm not that upset just need to keep it on open ground and probably my driving needs improvement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Wow really? i thrashed mine in 4 races last sunday and had some pretty nasty falls, nothing broke at all except the wing thats got a crack now at the top edge. thats it ... i know 10ths can be fragile but i was slightly surprised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT2driver Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Yeah im running a different moter than stock, the leopard 4370kv moter and esc and using a turnigy 6000 2s bat. Might be a little much for the vantage with the stock parts, I'm slowly upgrading to carbon and aluminium parts. It is proper mental though, just wheelspins all the time ha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 haha im pretty happy with the speed it goes on its brushed setup on lipos, nimhs are little more to be desired mind. so ill get brushless once the ESC melts from lipo powarrr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Witterings Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 I've got to replace the spur gear on the Vantage, it looks to me like I've got to take the plate that runs the top length of the car off to get to it, is that me or is there any easier way and I'm missing it ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrolami Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Yeah, that's the only way. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Witterings Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Yeah, that's the only way. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Nah go on, you're just winding me up aren't you :-) Oh well here we go, cheers for that !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrolami Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Hehe... Replaced mine today, bit of a pain but I have one now that makes far less noise. Also discovered the motor was held in with only one screw, perhaps this contributed to damaging the cog in the first place. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonG Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Just taken my vantage out a couple of times and its very quick but very fragile... Broke the rear shock tower 1st time (got the carbon upgrade). Second time out I had a small altercation with a tree and broke the front bumper and front chassis plate and front diff... Waiting for parts now. Parts are cheap so I'm not that upset just need to keep it on open ground and probably my driving needs improvement... Worth noting that if you're bashing and looking for strength then avoid the carbon upgrades - these are very ridged, so good for racing, but brittle when smacked around. The standard plastic parts are more flexible, so less likely to break than carbon. As you say, parts are cheap, so just get a bunch of spare plastic parts and accept you'll need to change them. Or, if you need more strength than the standard parts, aluminium is the way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nivermind Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 carnage just came, looks great. couple of quick questions. what size of alan key is most of the screws does any one know? would save me hunting through every small one ive got. how long does the lipo need charge for? and do i need to use that charge pouch/bag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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