capri-boy Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Ok, will stick with 52T spur. Looking at a 2000kv motor. What pinion size is a good starting point for general bashing?Is the orange Hyper SS motor mount the only choice? I dont like the orange colour!There was a guy on ebay selling his own mounts - they looked a copy of member mfp's here (mfp isn't doing anymore atm, though worth asking him when he's next doing a batch) - there bare metal and like the absima design so more 'basic' meshing than the SS mount.There's also the new Hyper VS mount, if there's stock anywhere (RC-Willpower ppl to check) - it's the SS mount from the look but in gunmetal colour - might be hardened coating, prob not. You could also de-anodize the SS mount (oven cleaner will work). If your 2000kv is a 74mm truggy sized motor then 16t might be a good start - though of course depends on what tyres your running / where your running. If your running a 68mm buggy motor then start at 15t in the same circumstances. Spider centre diff may want re-oiling - front and rear diffs will be factory greased so if you've never serviced them now's the time for silicone oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 There was a guy on ebay selling his own mounts - they looked a copy of member mfp's here (mfp isn't doing anymore atm, though worth asking him when he's next doing a batch) - there bare metal and like the absima design so more 'basic' meshing than the SS mount.There's also the new Hyper VS mount, if there's stock anywhere (RC-Willpower ppl to check) - it's the SS mount from the look but in gunmetal colour - might be hardened coating, prob not. You could also de-anodize the SS mount (oven cleaner will work).£40 for SS mount is alot for a small piece of aluminium.Cant find any mfp copies on ebay at moment or info on Hyper VS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 £40 for SS mount is alot for a small piece of aluminium.Cant find any mfp copies on ebay at moment or info on Hyper VS. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=371377280574&alt=web Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 £40 for SS mount is alot for a small piece of aluminium.Cant find any mfp copies on ebay at moment or info on Hyper VS. £21 del from RC-Willpower.com for the SS one, the VS one was listed at £25 when I last looked but didn't check stock levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sputnik Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) Ok, will stick with 52T spur. Looking at a 2000kv motor. What pinion size is a good starting point for general bashing?Is the orange Hyper SS motor mount the only choice? I dont like the orange colour!I didnt like the orange puke color either ... Greased Lightning cleaner dip for about 20 minutes - scrub with toothbrush for a bit. Wash with water dry and into the bead blast cabinet she went. About 15 minutes of Walnut Shells and glass bead mix 60/40 ratio and you get this look.Re Doing a bunch of my rare SuperMaxx parts in this finish and rebuilding as well - interesting look methinks. Orange Sucks and you could get a cerakote job done after you De-Orange it Edited November 11, 2015 by sputnik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 What's the difference between the standard ST chassis and the Pro chassis? Assume dimensionally the same but different material, maybe strength/bendability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onepastyman Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 I have just fitted my tork flux 2200kv to the st when I noticed that the spur was ever so lightly rubbing against the chassis. So while the motor was out I shimmed up the mounts to move the angle of the spur. It now sits straight. Results of this was a better mesh and no grinding/ binding. Where before I put on a 4s on 14/46 gearing it was fine. Would raise the front but no wheelie. Now the spur spins freely, on a 4s with 17/46 gearing it will do standing backflips. On 6s you cannot even get to 1/3 throttle. It is immense. May have to raise the pinnion as motor is still running cool after a hard messy bash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Trying to find some Mugen MBX6T side guards but seems they are not common and can find MBX7T ones.So are the MBX7T versions the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Trying to find some Mugen MBX6T side guards but seems they are not common and can find MBX7T ones.So are the MBX7T versions the same?http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/mugen/mbx7t/mugen-1-8-mbx7t-side-stone-guard-set-front-bumper-tension-rods-body-posts.htmlI used mp9 side guards on my irc mt4g3 chassis.....sweet fit aswell....from dollor aswell..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Checked manuals and side guard part E0414 is same for both MBX6T and MBX7T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nareshpatel10 Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Any engine that is difficult to tune and keep running is symptomatic of many issues.1. fuel line pin holes or tears - leaking air?2. fuel tank not sealed properly3. Carb sealed up properly?4. Notorious for front bearing air leaks as well in these - after theyve been run a bit.5. Are you running a pullstart? I never will -always a bump/starter box for my nitros. Airleaks from pull and rotostarts wreak havoc on tuning and over heating.Next after those are tested ...What glow plug are you running? McCoys MC9 in my hyper mills is what I run exclusively.How many headshims did you put on when you rebuilt?Fuel Nitro %A nitro engine that runs funky until it gets hot is usually indicative of a worn out Piston and Sleeve. Ther ewill be enough pinch when the metals are cold to get it to run erratically ... but when they get up to running temps, the pinch fades as the metals expand and it dies easy and often. You said it was rebuilt ... more details on if you replaced piston sleeve etc ... Hi sputnik sorry pal I'm totally new to this forum didn't realise you'd replied to my question. I've done the obvious things like replacing the fuel lines, checked if there's a leak in the fuel tank, checked for leaks on the carb by applying soapy water and blowing down the fuel line, seemed to be OK. Not checked the front bearings, but like I said all the parts on the engine are brand spanking new apart the the engine chassis (I know could've brought a brand new complete engine for what I paid out for the parts!!). Glow plugs ive been using (FASTRAX PLATINUM No.4 MEDIUM HOT) Headshims I can't remember as I built this last year before the summer. Fuel I've used a full 2.5L tub of Byron 25% trying to get this truggy going!!Here's a link of the video I took when I mange to get the engine going this is how it runs:- (https://youtu.be/2k580pvgcOA) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Just got my Tbone thrasher front bumper (after paying customs fees). Do I need to fit a Hyper 7 bumper to fill the slot left after removing the ST bumper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I would... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Staring to write my letter to Santa and trying trying to decide on motor for brushless conversion, 4S with 52T spur, 150A ESC. Castle 1515 2200kV (found one for £60 on the bay but not sure is legit) or Xerun 4274 2000kV. Much difference in performance / temps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I`d get the xerun...or a leopard motor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 So will the Xerun 2000kv 4274 drop straight in with a SSE motor mount and 52T spider spur with 16T pinion? with Losi battery tray and MBX7T guards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrodom Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Managed to snap a cnc knuckle on my ST pro. They are £35 for a pair so does anyone have a right one spare? maybe someone smashed a left. Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sputnik Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 If I may make a suggestion ... after tiring of breaking Hobao Steering knuckles - even the $50 USD PCR CNC ones over and over again at the screw holes - they kept ripping out or cracking, I opted for the superior design [ imho ] of the Jammin / Hong Nor T-Bolt Steering knuckles. As they dont "THREAD" into the knuckle. My steering knuckle breakage issues have seriously diminished to near nil ... I detailed it mainly in one of my build threads but heres the gist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Do you use the third screw point at the end when fitting the SSE motor mount? Will require extra hole in chassis. Or is it secure with the two screw points at the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 1 hour ago, locky said: Do you use the third screw point at the end when fitting the SSE motor mount? Will require extra hole in chassis. Or is it secure with the two screw points at the diff? It'll hold a 40/42mm can fine with two, though using the third can't hurt and it's only one hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I would definitely use the third hole, I rushed one of mine once and never bothered and it bent on the first tumble. its fairly easy to drill it, I got a long 2.5mm bit and drilled a pilot hole from above with the mount fitted and the motor attachment removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Anyone run a Tenshock X802L 2200kV motor in their ST? Wondering if 6 poles makes much of difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sputnik Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 (edited) On 11/15/2015, 7:20:39, nareshpatel10 said: Hi sputnik sorry pal I'm totally new to this forum didn't realise you'd replied to my question. I've done the obvious things like replacing the fuel lines, checked if there's a leak in the fuel tank, checked for leaks on the carb by applying soapy water and blowing down the fuel line, seemed to be OK. Not checked the front bearings, but like I said all the parts on the engine are brand spanking new apart the the engine chassis (I know could've brought a brand new complete engine for what I paid out for the parts!!). Glow plugs ive been using (FASTRAX PLATINUM No.4 MEDIUM HOT) Headshims I can't remember as I built this last year before the summer. Fuel I've used a full 2.5L tub of Byron 25% trying to get this truggy going!! Here's a link of the video I took when I mange to get the engine going this is how it runs:- (https://youtu.be/2k580pvgcOA) My IP seems to be blocked at this forum atm - weird ... https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Hyper+engine+tuning+guide+ofna+forum+site:www.ofna.com My buddy who raced fro OFNA wrote several solid Hyper & Tuning guides for setting al 3 needles. Need to find it in there if ya can. User RobB - your midrange [ the arrow point ] needle is NOT near flush AND is not in alignment with the High Speed needle ... Engine seems as if it is running lean - not enough fuel. 2 basic rules for nitro engine tuning. 1. Dont turn needles for adjustment on a COLD Engine - bring it up to temp then tune ... 200-240* F 2. Dont tune engine on < 1/2 Tank of fuel ... Get it up to temps - fill the tank - then play with needles. Your midrange needle appears to be turned in too far atm. Its also important to understand how these Hyper midrange needles on a 3 needle carb function. There are 4 holes in the midrange needle screw - one of them needs to be near alignment with the ANGLE of the High speed needle/fuel intake shaft. I will draw a diagram and post it ... Edited November 20, 2015 by sputnik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrodom Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 Hi @sputnik, thanks for the in depth reply. Thats a great idea. Thankfully i've found a knuckle for now but if i pop another i will probably do your above mod. So great to see this thread still so alive and helpful. I started it back in 2012 when i was racing then when i stopped i didn't come on here for a long time. It was a shock when this came up in most recent posts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Will the TC Models, http://www.tcmodels.net/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=61&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=71&vmcchk=1&Itemid=71 ,motor mount work with a 52T spur and allow use of range pinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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