evssv Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 (edited) 50k 30k Edited October 9, 2016 by evssv 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Unfortunately I think my LST will probably be shelved for a little while due to me having to fund my CBT and hopefully the bike I want. If I get a chance I'll pull the diffs apart and see how well they're holding oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helidan Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Hi guys, I'm looking to buy a new truck soon and was considering the Axial Yeti but was put off after reading reports of component failures and the need to upgrade many of the stock parts which is a shame seeing as it is a nice looking truck. So, what is the Losi LST XXL2-E generally like straight from the box and run stock? I understand Losi is a respected brand and known for quality. It looks quite nice especially with a wing fitted. If I got one I'd probably rewire it for parallel battery operation using two 4s 30-40C 5000mah lipos. What sort of run time could I expect from 10AH of capacity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 I can't comment one what the XXL 2E is box like box stock as I removed the stock ESC and motor and installed a Hobbywing Max 8 and 2200kv motor in it. But the LST is a great truck though probably its biggest weakness is the outdrives, why Losi don't use the HD ones from the outset I don't know as this seems to have been a problem when they released the truck several years ago. Also the stock servo saver isn't exactly brilliant. So I would recommend getting hold of 2 pairs of these https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-front-rear-h.d.-differential-outdrive-cups-pins-losa3503/p12294 I would also recommend getting a set of yellow springs but there not really necessary they just make the truck handle a bit better. I can't comment on the batteries you intend to run as I'm running a different ESC and Motor but I will say that the battery tray is a bit on the small side so make sure that your batteries will fit. I struggled finding some that would fit so I just went with some of these http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/reaction-hardcase-hd-11.1volt-5000mah-3s-50c-lipo-with-ec5-connector.html they also do some 2s ones http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/reaction-hardcase-hd-7.4volt-5000mah-2s-50c-lipo-with-ec5-connector.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helidan Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Thanks for that. Any chance you could measure the battery tray for me? The pics make it look fairly big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Oh and the wheelie bar that comes with it sucks. It works well but you'll probably brake it on your first run so if you can try and get hold of a rear bumper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 From memory the length of the tray is 140mm can't remember the width but will double check for you tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just rolling Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Great truck, mine all standard, run it on 5s which is more than enough, fast on 4s but just that bit extra power on 5s. I run a 5000 5s which was a little too long so chopped the end off the battery tray and it works fine with all the velcro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just rolling Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 well thats another wheelie bar broke lol, the 2nd 1, prob my fault as on 5s it wheelies quite easy but it dont really get much of a beating, wonder if t bone racing do 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Forget who made them, but these have been solid on mine, and it weighs 10 kg so hits hard when it tumbles - had them for at least 4 years - or when I really was bashing it quite hard. Collector's item now, so have to be more gentle now! Al. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just rolling Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 excuse my language but that is ****in awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 THANKS!! Thing is .... It cost a small fortune over the years. It's been through 4 or 5 bodies - wished I'd kept one as a 'basher' body, had several changes of chassis and suspension, shocks, 4 different nitro motors including original, then copperhead (great motor), Z28Spec3, ZR30Spec2, ZR32Spec2 ... then it went Brushless - it had a few changes in battery positions as well. Stock Losi BL conversion battery positions has too much weight at the back - front wheels were in the air all of the time, so move one forwards - sorted. It weighs a ton = well ~10 kg. No way can I bash it the way many do. That said, I have raced it up and down the grassed area where I used to live on a weekly basis - it moves pretty well. Strange thought - despite being MUCH easier to run now, I preferred it being nitro - just seemed more 'monster truck' - but at least I can run it when I want now. Al. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just rolling Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Put the rear bumper on in place of the broken wheelie bar, looks better. I know what you mean about the nitro, i loved the noise of when i had a savage and it ran good, being brushless is so much more power and a whole lot easier to look after but i do kinda miss nitro, been looking at nitro trucks aswell as petrol trucks but not sure i would like the lack of power compared to 1/8 and 4-6s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueThunder Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Hi, I'm new to RC's and this forum. I literally just got a Losi LST XXL2 E after wanting a large scale car, debated the XMaxx 8S but that was a bit too new and way too pricey. I'm very very pleased with it, its incredibly fast on 2 x 2s lipo's and despite a tumble from a ramp jump seems very robust, I'm really enjoying it, though only 2nd time out and run into an issue though hopefully not hard to resolve. I figured this is the place to ask for expert advice. I took my new LST XXL2 E to a grassy park and was hammering around fine and then got a bit too confident. I went to the adjacent skate park and had a great time until it took a tumble to the front and the front steering turnbuckle LOSB4001 (servo steering arm?) rod end has popped off the pivot ball (see photo) I'm looking for guidance on fixing it, do I apply some type of grease and try an pop it back on with pliers or do I have to unscrew the rod end and pass it through the turnbuckle eye/hoop and screw it back onto the servo arm thing? Also, there doesn't seem to be anything in the provided instructions on what the tools/4 way wrench provided with the car are for? Any idea's? Sorry but I am a noob! Where can I find any "How to" video guides for these types of repairs? I've tried YouTube but couldn't get my answer, does this forum have a section on repairs for this model LOSI4004? What would be a good toolkit for this car to cover most repairs? Grateful for any advice. Edited March 12, 2017 by RBovenzi Edit 1: Typo issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 (edited) Got the first run done now, 4s. First thing i did was changing the diff pins to HPI Z260 ones (everyone suggested that, and i wanted to fill the diffs anyway), since i had the diffs open for a splash of diff oil anyway (30k front, 22-25k rear, no idea how the mix turned out). Of course, i had the "dreaded" slipper nut backing off on the first run already, didn't damage the pads though. Two threadlocked nuts on it now, hope they stick (roughly a 1/3 turn out from closed). Love it, just love it. But not everything is amazing, the person who "designed" the battery tray deserves to eat it. I mean, being locked into certain battery sizes is one thing, but flatout restrict the batteries to softpacks is just stupid. I only have hardpacks with corner terminals, there's no "tetris" i can do to make them fit other than having a battery on the bottom tray, and another one on top flopping around slightly off center (for the terminals of the bottom battery), only held in by the straps. Ah and the screws. No idea who thought of those dinky little pieces of grrrrr, already stripped one. And yes, i'm using a 1/16" driver. Other than that, very enjoyable, and very impressive to see it fly by at a million miles an hour, roughly. I bought a Max8 for it, decided to run it on the stock castle system for now, and i have to say it works well. Virtually no cogging, just the fan is extremely noisy which i have to check. Quote Also, there doesn't seem to be anything in the provided instructions on what the tools/4 way wrench provided with the car are for? Any idea's? Sorry but I am a noob! Not entirely sure what you mean? The hex keys? I haven't looked to closely, i only saw hex keys and a four way wrench, these are pretty self explanatory, if there's a specialised tool of sorts, my bad. If not, they're for, well, screws and your wheel hexes. Not sure why the manual should tell you what they're for, you try one, if it fits, it's for that screw/hex. Or am i fundamentally misunderstanding something? Edited March 13, 2017 by m4inbrain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommygunn Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I'm trying to ascertain who makes the best steering knuckles for my Losi LST2. I found the following makes; Hot Racing, GPM, New Era and Losi. However, there seems to be a big variation in info and availability of each of the knuckle sets from these manufacturers. Does anyone have anything to say on the subject? Cheers, Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueThunder Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 3 hours ago, m4inbrain said: Got the first run done now, 4s. First thing i did was changing the diff pins to HPI Z260 ones (everyone suggested that, and i wanted to fill the diffs anyway), since i had the diffs open for a splash of diff oil anyway (30k front, 22-25k rear, no idea how the mix turned out). Of course, i had the "dreaded" slipper nut backing off on the first run already, didn't damage the pads though. Two threadlocked nuts on it now, hope they stick (roughly a 1/3 turn out from closed). Love it, just love it. But not everything is amazing, the person who "designed" the battery tray deserves to eat it. I mean, being locked into certain battery sizes is one thing, but flatout restrict the batteries to softpacks is just stupid. I only have hardpacks with corner terminals, there's no "tetris" i can do to make them fit other than having a battery on the bottom tray, and another one on top flopping around slightly off center (for the terminals of the bottom battery), only held in by the straps. Ah and the screws. No idea who thought of those dinky little pieces of grrrrr, already stripped one. And yes, i'm using a 1/16" driver. Other than that, very enjoyable, and very impressive to see it fly by at a million miles an hour, roughly. I bought a Max8 for it, decided to run it on the stock castle system for now, and i have to say it works well. Virtually no cogging, just the fan is extremely noisy which i have to check. Not entirely sure what you mean? The hex keys? I haven't looked to closely, i only saw hex keys and a four way wrench, these are pretty self explanatory, if there's a specialised tool of sorts, my bad. If not, they're for, well, screws and your wheel hexes. Not sure why the manual should tell you what they're for, you try one, if it fits, it's for that screw/hex. Or am i fundamentally misunderstanding something? Thanks for your reply. As for the 4 way wrench, I understand what your saying, but one of the 4 has a very shaped hole, its not a typical well defined bolt shape. There were also two small bare metal bars with a small 3mm or so cut out at each end. Just wondered what they're for? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 58 minutes ago, Tommygunn said: I'm trying to ascertain who makes the best steering knuckles for my Losi LST2. I found the following makes; Hot Racing, GPM, New Era and Losi. However, there seems to be a big variation in info and availability of each of the knuckle sets from these manufacturers. Does anyone have anything to say on the subject? Cheers, Tom. I went for the Losi ones but that was mainly because I was making an order from amain at the time so thought why not. I can't comment on the other ones but the Losi ones do seem well made and I'm happy with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommygunn Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Supersavage, Yes, I'm eyeing up the Losi version, shame they are only red and bit pricier. Did you buy from the US or UK/EU? The US retailers really sting you for postage and I don't want to get had for tax and import duty. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommygunn Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 (edited) Also, in other news, I've just finished making a battery tray and motor mount for my LST2 electric conversion. I very happy with them, if I do say so myself. Tom. Edited March 13, 2017 by Tommygunn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 3 hours ago, RBovenzi said: Thanks for your reply. As for the 4 way wrench, I understand what your saying, but one of the 4 has a very shaped hole, its not a typical well defined bolt shape. There were also two small bare metal bars with a small 3mm or so cut out at each end. Just wondered what they're for? Thanks Ah, just checked, see what you mean. I honestly got no idea. If i had to guess, it's to hold a nut somewhere where it's hard to reach. I'll let you know once i used that thing on something, hehe. Sidenote, did anyone have problems with their tires on delivery? Mine seem to have flat spots on all four wheels, and is really annoying on lower speeds to see it wobble around like it needs to pee very badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 55 minutes ago, Tommygunn said: Supersavage, Yes, I'm eyeing up the Losi version, shame they are only red and bit pricier. Did you buy from the US or UK/EU? The US retailers really sting you for postage and I don't want to get had for tax and import duty. Tom. I got them from Amain Hobbies in the US as I was already ordering some other bits from them. I don't mind the red TBH and it looks a bit better in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 12 minutes ago, m4inbrain said: Ah, just checked, see what you mean. I honestly got no idea. If i had to guess, it's to hold a nut somewhere where it's hard to reach. I'll let you know once i used that thing on something, hehe. Sidenote, did anyone have problems with their tires on delivery? Mine seem to have flat spots on all four wheels, and is really annoying on lower speeds to see it wobble around like it needs to pee very badly. Yep mine had very significant flat spots but after a couple of packs and keeping the truck with the wheels off the ground when in storage they returned to normal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 3 minutes ago, supersavage said: Yep mine had very significant flat spots but after a couple of packs and keeping the truck with the wheels off the ground when in storage they returned to normal. Cheers mate, gonna do that. Need to build a new RC stand hehe, it just stands above my old one that i bought for me truggy/SCTs. Hope it goes away, because it really looks.. Dinky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueThunder Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 (edited) UPDATE:- Okay so I have managed to pop the rod end back onto the pivot head, put a bit of fairy liquid on the pivot head and inside rod end eyelet (figured it needed a bit of light inabrasive lubricant) then used a pair of thin flat pliers to push it together, went on well. Steering is now fine. Thanks guys Edited March 13, 2017 by RBovenzi Remove image and fix misspelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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