evssv Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) The motor on our almost new Flux has slipped forward in the mount, so that it's stopped engaging with the spur gear on the transmission. Obviously I can put it back and tighten it up again, but is there a way to stop this happening again ? It seems that there is just friction grip between motor and mount and I'm wary of overtightening it As as aside, wow, it is fast - on 4s it's way faster than our nitro Savage (which I think will be up for sale soon as I cant see us switching back)I had same problem so I used sum tape and its been swwet now... Edited June 27, 2015 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Arse! When I Test ran mine with the 1717 it was reasonable on 15/52, but I don't think I'd go any higher. Was he using the gearbox or direct on to a CD? I have just had a little test in the front garden but it was on/off throttle constantly and got a little warm so started to cog a little what timing and punch do the 1717's like? And he was using a centre diff....so it was stupidly overgeared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 The motor on our almost new Flux has slipped forward in the mount, so that it's stopped engaging with the spur gear on the transmission. Obviously I can put it back and tighten it up again, but is there a way to stop this happening again ? It seems that there is just friction grip between motor and mount and I'm wary of overtightening it As as aside, wow, it is fast - on 4s it's way faster than our nitro Savage (which I think will be up for sale soon as I cant see us switching back) You can fit a cable tie around the motor between the motor wires and the rear clamp and again between the front clamp and the motor heatsink, this will stop it from being able to slide forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I have just had a little test in the front garden but it was on/off throttle constantly and got a little warm so started to cog a little what timing and punch do the 1717's like? And he was using a centre diff....so it was stupidly overgeared Depends what you mean by "warm", also how fast the temperature climbed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Depends what you mean by "warm", also how fast the temperature climbed? It was within 5 mins and it was hotter than I would deem acceptable but I was literally going 5 meters then stopping time and time again, plus the batteries weren't charged and I was in slightly long grass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I had same problem so I used sum tape and its been swwet now You can fit a cable tie around the motor between the motor wires and the rear clamp and again between the front clamp and the motor heatsink, this will stop it from being able to slide forward Thanks I've repositioned it now but will try those if it happens again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 It was within 5 mins and it was hotter than I would deem acceptable but I was literally going 5 meters then stopping time and time again, plus the batteries weren't charged and I was in slightly long grass 14/50 should be ok, but proper testing with a temp gun is necessary to be able to confirm. It's also worth looking at the data logging from the XL2 to see what the current draw was like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent hauler bag (with wheels / handle ) which is a bit cheaper than the HPI one ? Most of the suitcases/holdalls I've found are either not big enough or are way too long - it seems that to get a wide holdall you also have to get a very long one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 14/50 should be ok, but proper testing with a temp gun is necessary to be able to confirm. It's also worth looking at the data logging from the XL2 to see what the current draw was like. I think I may have to go down a tooth or two on the pinion, I have the big heavy baja wheels to take into consideration, 410g each wheel Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDoes anyone have a recommendation for a decent hauler bag (with wheels / handle ) which is a bit cheaper than the HPI one ? Most of the suitcases/holdalls I've found are either not big enough or are way too long - it seems that to get a wide holdall you also have to get a very long one Sorry I can't help you there, I carry it all the hard way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Yeah, wheel weight needs to be taken into consideration. I love my Trencher X's, but they're kinda weighty at 360g, but the Savvy seems to handle them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Well, I think I might get rid of the Baja wheels......I used 10% of the battery then this happened Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Yup, same issue as on the Super 5sc Flux. You can keep the stub-axle and use them with the later hpi 17mm hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Snapped both axles though so there is not much point in keeping them haha. I think I'll try the standard axles and see if they hold up a bit better Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 No, the 17mm hexes don't need the threaded part, so they're still usable, but not with the 24mm hexes you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Ahh I get you, I'll try the standard axles first I think before going back to 17mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrod1210 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 anyone knows selling their hip savage flux? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 So, another day, another (two) problems - the esc has also shifted forwards despite being on a sticky pad and having a tie-wrap round it. The obvious solution is another tiewrap going the other way, possibly wrapped in fuel tube to prevent it chafing the motor wires. Or is there a better way ? - one of the supposedly bulletproof diffs has shed the teeth on its pinion gear. Is this common ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) So, another day, another (two) problems - the esc has also shifted forwards despite being on a sticky pad and having a tie-wrap round it. The obvious solution is another tiewrap going the other way, possibly wrapped in fuel tube to prevent it chafing the motor wires. Or is there a better way ? - one of the supposedly bulletproof diffs has shed the teeth on its pinion gear. Is this common ? Edited June 28, 2015 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyP Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) So, another day, another (two) problems - the esc has also shifted forwards despite being on a sticky pad and having a tie-wrap round it. The obvious solution is another tiewrap going the other way, possibly wrapped in fuel tube to prevent it chafing the motor wires. Or is there a better way ? - one of the supposedly bulletproof diffs has shed the teeth on its pinion gear. Is this common ? Edited June 28, 2015 by DannyP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) Thanks - I'll look at both of those. is the shimming method the same as always (I have a nitro XSS with the older sintered diffs) or is there a different technique for the bulletproof diffs ? edit : actually, if someone could give me a link to some diff shimming instructions that woud be handy as I cant find my copy and it's been a while since I did this Edited June 29, 2015 by cat7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 In the For Sales Mo. is selling BP ring gear and pinion sets for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 It turned out that the screws that hold the rear crownwheel to the diff body had no threadlock on them (from the factory), so they'd come undone enough to create a lot of play between crownwheel and pinion, resulting in a broken tooth on the pinion. In a way I'm relieved because it points to an assembly error rather than parts that are not up to the job, so I'm hoping this will be an isolated occurrence The broken bits are going back to modelsport for a warranty claim. So, as well as shimming your diffs, make sure the screws have threadlock too.... needless to say I've checked the front one as well and apart from needing a little shimming it was ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 I red threadlock those diff cup screws, then leave to cure for two days minimum. Make sure there's no oil or grease in the screw holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3nas Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 can anyone plase tell me where i can find aluminium shock caps for hpi savage flux i also know i can use hellfire caps but cant find them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 can anyone plase tell me where i can find aluminium shock caps for hpi savage flux i also know i can use hellfire caps but cant find them Ebay and u.s of a will be your best friend here mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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