Tamiyacowboy Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Heres what i done.Raided my santacruz skate board for its abec 7 bones bearings ( these puppys are supersmooth and very very quick ) , next i downloaded a bearing run spool roller.printed of the two side walls and the 8x stabilizers and feet. Popped the four bearings onto the 3d printed stubs, fitted the feet and stood it behind the printer raised so it is roughly level with my top of printer box. now im no longer seeing dodgey lines in my prints where there was that gapping. NO SPOOL ROCKING at all, just a smooth turn every so often. i had noticed lots of peeps modding out filament spools to carry bearings so they free roll without causing excessive tug on the filament. maybe worth you guys looking into. a couple plugs that fit into spool and slided onto a smoothed out threadded bar . i also noticed for the most ultimate in feed its best straight down from above extruder but thats not possible in my case so i had to redneck it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 its been bugging me, like a bad headache, but finally i worked it all out, filament is running smooth. but read this and think about what you read and what it really means. move paper under nozzle and adjust until paper just slides under the nozzle. right, so its implicating you placing paper onto bed right ? , then its asking you to adjust the bed until the paper only just slide while under the nozzle correct ? this is what my bot tells me each time i level up the bed, put paper on table raise bed adjust bed etc etc 4 extra times. but heres the problem, infill is not filling correct parts are overhanging when there is no overhang, first layers solids are sketchy and sparse in areas so thin you can see through them like a window. i have been doing exactly what the bot told me and all my fills and likes have been sketchy also my verticals shoddy, so what the hell was it. Those instructions on bed leveling thats what. compress that .1mm paper and its .001, its so fine that your laying a 100 or less micron thick layer and that thinness is the alloy plates uneven surface showing. So i went a different route, paper NOT under the nozzle and the very edge of paper used to slide under nozzle tip so it does not bend but slightly rubs ever so on the paper. done this, set up the terracotta soldier started printing and Bam perfection, no squished out layering, no hotend melting surface and subsurface, less stretch. now im gonna bust out my feeler gauges and make sure its just right. all my problems came from a stupid leveling message that was slightly miss worded incorrect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) heres a couple prints to try out guys. try these settings and NO SUPPORT-NO RAFT, .020mm layer height , 18% infill - 35 feed speed - 45 travel speed.remember no supports its gonna test how good your bridging and faking is. both are terracotta warriors one a general, the other a kneeling archer.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64422 unable to find the general but above is the archer. but here is a Bag lid. trust me here this thing is awesome, i have printed the small lid - ring and cap and they fit perfect on bags. i can see them being used over christmas time on bags of sweets and chocolates. they come in three sizes and sized holes and caps with ring clips. print them out give them to the wife-girlfriend-mother. simple but so so effectivehttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:41981 Edited November 9, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy add a second link to a handy item Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 .....but here is a Bag lid. trust me here this thing is awesome, i have printed the small lid - ring and cap and they fit perfect on bags. i can see them being used over christmas time on bags of sweets and chocolates. they come in three sizes and sized holes and caps with ring clips. print them out give them to the wife-girlfriend-mother. simple but so so effectivehttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:41981The things you don't know you NEED in your life - awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 The things you don't know you NEED in your life - awesome!Yep when i printed it off i was like " hmmm yeah ok " then i stuck it on a bag and was like " omfg it really works thats so awesome " then a brainwave, no more folding up packets and scrabling for sticky tape to hold them closed. or that bag splitting and your forced to eat all those sweets. handy for cereal bags kids always leave them undone and you get the dregs or stale ends. i think the largest lid would fit cereal bag packs and ita also a mark against your name from the misses, if it makes her life easy shes less to snap your head off next time that bag busts n spills everywhere lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) Problems came up and i am now trying to contact seller for a parts RMA or replacement. Z axis left arm has sagged so much you have to re-level bed on every touch. you can level bed touch the right arm and find paper has now become loose. vertical printing is now vertical with a nice left slope calibration bed level script shows the bed to be perfect, but the Z axis arm sag causes the vertical to start to lean over, left wall gains a slight left hand lean to it where the right wall gains a huge left lean , link a lossenge shape and thats what its printing for a vertical. so as of nowim trying to figure out a quick'ish fix if not i could be out of action or possible printerless if amazon decide to refund me well that was quick, seller contacted me and images have been sent to show the right arm sag that continues to grow each hour the bed is heated, so much that you can level bed then right away go and re-level it and there is a wild difference ( all you done was send the head back to home then back to level high) but your bedlevel will have changed because of the sagging arm/s two pictures the left side arm is dead level, the right arm has sagged, you may also notice that the left arm has a slight twist conforming to it as the right sags more and more. Edited November 12, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy amazon update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 home improvements .... ive just added 5pence to the value of my house 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 they are missong the ready salted hula hoops on each digit for while your cleaning out lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) I was told a story about using a single square of tissue for your clean up operation - What's that up the fingernail? I've had a week of very little to do with the printer. I plugged it in yesterday to print out a little mount for a V6 E3D clone extruder and it was running like a dogs dinner Swapping the filament, speeds etc and it was still stringy and over extruding then under extruding. I noticed the temperature on the hot end was swinging wildly by upto +/- 15*C!! How the hell? The kapton and given up near the thermister and the poor little component was in and out like something from the hokey cokey Having decided that must be the cause of all the problems, I stripped the hot end, re taped, nipped the heater and was about to put it all back together - but thought - whilst I'm here, I'll check the teflon liner, glad I did - it was fubar! The wild temperature swings had degraded the teflon pretty bad. Luckily I'd ordered some last week from AliExpress and it landed Wednesday. Boom! Back in the groove from there. I was getting worried it may be the psu or the melzi board giving up the goats but luckily, quite trivial in the end and the first real issue with the machine after not nipping the nozzle tight enough from the initial install. Top Stuff! Edited November 14, 2015 by banners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) ITS DEAD !!!!! booted up printer today and sent the extruder to home pos. x axis switch engages - z axis switch engages -------- Y asix switch clicks and does nothing the motor keeps running and trys to tear the whole Y carrage through the printer side. in a huge hurry to kill power i reach round and bang the off switch. tear apart the Y axis, remount motor - pullygear - belt - retighten belt - check switch and turn back on, guess what it does the exact same thing.worse still my printer along the y axis now decides each layer should be added a fraction off a mm futher out than last so each layer the printer lays its out by x amount of microns. so anything with a wall in the Z axis is slopped or slanted like a losegne .email sent to company for a Repair center ticket and if that fails i will be asking amazon for a FULLY WORKING AND TESTED machine. if not its trading standards can deal with them. 600g of white filament used and thrown in the bin as everything that was printed was not correct and had huge stepping errors etc etc. swear, i could do more than that i am livid, £300 quid and not even a month running the printer has died a horrid death and its all mechanical build wise nothing user created. anyways im going to go play with my launchpad app for iphone/ipad ( well worth downloading if your into making your own musical tunes and likes) Edited November 15, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 ITS DEAD !!!!! booted up printer today and sent the extruder to home pos. x axis switch engages - z axis switch engages -------- Y asix switch clicks and does nothing the motor keeps running and trys to tear the whole Y carrage through the printer side. in a huge hurry to kill power i reach round and bang the off switch. tear apart the Y axis, remount motor - pullygear - belt - retighten belt - check switch and turn back on, guess what it does the exact same thing.worse still my printer along the y axis now decides each layer should be added a fraction off a mm futher out than last so each layer the printer lays its out by x amount of microns. so anything with a wall in the Z axis is slopped or slanted like a losegne .email sent to company for a Repair center ticket and if that fails i will be asking amazon for a FULLY WORKING AND TESTED machine. if not its trading standards can deal with them. 600g of white filament used and thrown in the bin as everything that was printed was not correct and had huge stepping errors etc etc. swear, i could do more than that i am livid, £300 quid and not even a month running the printer has died a horrid death and its all mechanical build wise nothing user created. anyways im going to go play with my launchpad app for iphone/ipad ( well worth downloading if your into making your own musical tunes and likes)sounds like the micro switch is faulty on the y and you may have lost a tooth on the belt , that would explain the fraction of mm shift each time.that things never really run squared since you got it !! get rid get a refund and buy something else...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Sunday at home is bake day with the kids and i printed of buscuit cutters in naturel pla 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 see what they say tonight when they get my email china will be morning at 3am tonight, then i will know tomorrow what i have to do.i requested a repair center repair, and electrical test with a proof printer ran for atleast 20hrs none stop without errors, ( quadcopters do about 20 million cauclations, yet the same cpu used in these 3d printers fails with just a mear 250k caculations) and if thats not possible im asking for a refund/replacement machine and spare Z axis arms and new Z-Y-X endstops with full wire looms. the problem is either the switch or the wire loom, i can pinch the loom and the endstop light comes on, yet the endstop switch will engage but the light does not and sometimes the whole switch and led light fails and the whole machine trys to eat itself. i have melted 600g of that new white roll and have 4 products and they are not exactly perfect in any way or form. the other x amount of grams, thats in the trash bin as failed parts. 4x 7inch lcd frames 5 pipboy sunscreens each one usless for nothing, they dont fit and are all out of shape. 3 e-cig boxes knackered and not vertical they all slope and dont match together propper. the only thing thats near perfect is the scout blaster and that even has stepping shifts and some sloping, so this has been an ongoing thing just now its shown its full extent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) Sorry to hear your having troubles mate. is a right bummer. I've given up on the ABS route for now. Gone back to PLA. Currently printing a mini nuke from Fallout. It's pretty big, but will be sweet. prints in parts, so nearly half way through.Even bought some glow in the dark PLA, that has Nuka-Cola Quantum all over it. What paint is best for ABS or PLA? Would airfix type paint work? Edited November 15, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 acrylic waterbase would be best for pla, the solvent base may attack the plastic, as for abs teat that like most abs car plastics, rubdown primer an flashpaint it. check out thingiverse for a thing called " F-bomb " or " flower bomb " , if you print that in water soluable filaments you can pack it with soil and seeds and lob them as seed bombs, rain melts the palstics and they disolve , also they are fairly large to so in pla-abs could become a kiddies toy or something like potatoe canon ammo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I've had a dig around and can't fine a Nuka-Cola Quantum design, someone needs to make one!I started looking away from water based paints if I'm honest, I picked one up that said it was suitable for plastic but it just ran off the surface. Given I didn't prime it, probably my mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 yeah plastics need a paint that etches istelf into the first few few atomic layers on the plastic thats what makes the paint stick it eats the plastic. printer mail back, CTC will replace the printer with a new one , so i am now in the hands of the amazon lot to find out what i need to do and how.i threw out the packaging about two week ago not expecting to be sending it back so very soon. so thats another problem. but idea was they send new printer and i will unpack and repace the old one using the new printer packing while driver waits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Well, after the guy saying he would send me the bits on the 24th november, they still arent here. Sadly i had to accept the terms of the dispute, so now i will have to go through Aliexpress and hope i can get my money back that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) we need to get one of the guys to pull out these parts from their printer and draw around them. then have someone like our banners with the cnc cutter whip you a couple up. that way we got you up and printing with the machine. heya just found this its a lazer/cnc steal alloy plan set for the prusa and what looks like those missing plates mazyie needs thing can be found here with files : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:576456 Edited November 16, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy add link to possible lazer/cnc part for printer fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) 4 hours ago, mayzie12 said: Well, after the guy saying he would send me the bits on the 24th november, they still arent here. Sadly i had to accept the terms of the dispute, so now i will have to go through Aliexpress and hope i can get my money back that way What parts are you missing, cant find the page it was on. [Edit] Found it. It is the bearing holder (belt runner) at the front of the printer? Edited November 16, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 15 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: What parts are you missing, cant find the page it was on. [Edit] Found it. It is the bearing holder (belt runner) at the front of the printer? aye its two plates of acrylic with two notches that fit intom the front plate and allows for adjustment on tension to the belt the front bearing holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Just now, Tamiyacowboy said: aye its two plates of acrylic with two notches that fit intom the front plate and allows for adjustment on tension to the belt the front bearing holds. If it is the same printer as mine, you can't adjust the tension once the belt is secured. However, I am more than happy to make one if it gets his printer up and running. Wont be perfect, mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 1 hour ago, Vr5fx said: If it is the same printer as mine, you can't adjust the tension once the belt is secured. However, I am more than happy to make one if it gets his printer up and running. Wont be perfect, mind. i am sure this is the part mazyie is missing, its the belt pully and tensioner plate unit, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b366/Cougie/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0568_zps2ykz9wga.jpg That is what mine looks like. In other news. I'm going to give Simplify3d another go. Didn't work well for me last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banners Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 11 minutes ago, Tamiyacowboy said: i am sure this is the part mazyie is missing, its the belt pully and tensioner plate unit, Yep, our printers are similar to that but as Vr5fx said, we have no tensioner on these I3's. Mayzie, Mayzie, trying not to go crazee! What parts are you missing pal? Now there's a few of us with a bit more experience I'm sure we can get you up and running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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