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Status Updates posted by Paul Busby
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Anyone tell me what this is?
I can see it's a Kyosho.... trying to see if this might be a steal for a retro RC?
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As soon as the government said, "you gotta work from home", I almost immediately ordered a top of the range webcam, as part of what I do is training people... so they need to see me and a whiteboard.
The email said, "dispatched", but I have discovered today after chasing them that it hasn't been, and likely won't be... Nice of them to wait till everywhere is looking at a back order that could be weeks long before telling me.
I may well now lose a huge chunk of what was already a squeezed amount of work in my calender... starting to get real nervous now.
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Can anyone recommend a supppier and part number for good quality “DuPont” connectors we typically find in RC in the UK?
not a rare or unusual connector but I’m weary of buying cheap kits from Amazon/EBay, and would rather buy from somewhere like Farnell.
Same question about the Crimper... looking for a good branded one ~£100 max.
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Yeah those are very similar.
I found a great explanation here:
http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/
But there must be something in-between a £20 Chinese thing that will need to be replaced after 20 crimps, and a £200-500 Molex one?
I followed some of the threads from that website but I haven't so far managed to figure out exactly what I'm looking for... was hoping some of you guys who do super custom wiring in your crawlers might have already been there, done that.
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CNC Routing Machines... Talk to me.
I use CAD software on an almost daily basis, so I know how to design stuff, but if I want to cut my teeth in the machining side by making some RC parts (plastic and aluminium). May well branch out and offering a service if it's something I find I have a knack for.
Is there any point in looking at a 3 Axis as a beginner, or do you bite the bullet and go for a 5 Axis...
Budgetwise I was hoping to spend around 1k, my thinking was if I can get a good 3 Axis for the budget, it might be better than an average 5 axis? -
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I put my big boy pants on and ordered some proper TP Power motors instead of chinesium specials.
Think I might have to start selling some of my stockpile.
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I would like one too black/gold would suit my truck so well that's the main reason I want one lol. But also because they are rated so highly. But I have no idea which one I should order for a MT 4-6s I was thinking the 1800kv.
It has a hw 2200kv right now but I'm hoping the TP would be a considerable step up from that but I dont know then the price comes into play and i carry on umming and arring.
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@RCbutcher - I'm not super familiar with that truck, but I would have thought somewhere around 1800 would good if you get a longer can and a slightly bigger pinion. You can make it kind of like driving 4s in terms of actually being able to get the power down, but more efficient and with a big more torque when needed.
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I’ve got a delivery that says, “Arrived at PO Box” and is marked as delivered on eBay, I don’t have a PO Box and it certainly isn’t at my house.
Any ideas what that means?
(waiting for seller to respond)
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If anyone is looking for aftermarket Arrma parts that are super tough, David at Scorched parts looks to have just got some stock in from his finishers.
I've had great experience dealing with the company and would highly recommend the upgrades... be quick though... he sells out fast.
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It appears I’ve been hit by the Holiday flu 🤧
Really wanted to go out for a bash.
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Good luck to you mate. Last year I was absolutely ruined. Kids dropped first cooked it into some kinda super weapon then unleashed it on me. I couldn't eat for a week almost which made me worse I think it was the worst I've ever been hardly ever got ill until my kids cooked them up from nursery first.
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@RCbutcher Yeah I rarely got ill before these little monsters came into my life!
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Just pulled the trigger on a millright M3 CNC kit from the US.
I'm in for a penny now.
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Motor mounts with easily removable motors for easier pinion changes could be a reasonably easy thing to make, ...like what Arrma have done for the V4 motor mount on their 6S cars.
Lower profile shock towers or ones with a lot more mounting holes for increased amount of suspension tuneability & shock options.
Just a coupe of ideas there for you ~ nothing necessarily model specific but knowing how popular Arrma is that maybe a good brand to start with.
Also Tamiya.
I'm in a few Tamiya groups on FB and they'll spend silly money on them as who doesn't like a good "Hop Up" part. 😁 With most Tamiya's being plastic/ABS etc then anything that could be redone or re-engineered in aluminium or carbon fibre would sell I'm sure.
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My cheapo buggy has been coggy as hell since I switched it to a GoolRC 60A ESC from the stock Brushed set up.
I put an 80A Surpass one in today and it's running like a treat.
Wonder if there is a real brand quality difference, or just pure luck of the draw?- Show previous comments 7 more
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I don't think there's actual binning involved. At the very least, i'd be very surprised.
I personally think it's luck of the draw. You can get lucky, but chances are that you're not, in which case you buy a second one - and then you're at the price of one reasonably priced decent one. At least that's my thought behind my purchases - i've bought twice too often, and over time that results in really not that great a saving by going as cheap as possible.
I just checked, a WP-SC8 on ebay can be had for £45 as well. Brand new. And i haven't even checked faceballs marketplace for used stuff (that'd be my first stop). But, again: each to his own, i don't "judge" - i just don't share the view that the cheapest part is the best part. Even if you want to save money.
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I think between all the budget/unbranded stuff it definitely is luck of the draw because of the lack of QC.
That's just fact, if only 1 out of 10 gets actually tested, then potentially 9 out of 10 could be bad.
If 9 out of 10 are tested, then only 1 can be bad.
Note for future reference, RCmart is generally one of the best places for electrics.
Hobbywing stuff is also quite often on free shipping too.
Provided you don't mind waiting an extra few days, orders from there are usually here withina week, 10 days at the very most.
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My dad broke my Dremel 4000 😖
I think he must have held the chuck-lock button when it was running it, as it feels like it's been throroughly rounded off.
I've ordered a replacement (Going battery this time), but is it worth taking this one apart and trying to fix it?- Show previous comments 2 more
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I've taken many things apart, but not a Dremel yet, sorry. I watched AvE take all kinds of stuff apart and puzzle it back together, as most hobbyist tools go.
But that's my point. It either goes to the landfill directly or you take it apart. I don't see why a simple tool like a rotary wouldn't go back together, though.
Looking at the diagram, they sell interior parts, so it's supposed to be fixable. You just need to figure out which parts are rounded off, shouldn't be hard.
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I love AVE, but he does give you a false sense of confidence with these things... well me anyway. I tried to fix my cheap electric driver and all the bearings fell out, I put them in the best I could but it makes a funny noise now.
Took the Dremel apart and it wasnt too bad. Just gotta make sure you take the correct side off first (the one with the various bits of safety and certification info on) and then keep an eye on the brush holders, as they're a bit silly and ping out. Total cost of repair = basically £0.00
The cause of the issue was as I expected, the chuck button was worn, so I'm pretty sure that what I think happened, is what happened. It didn't actually wear it down completely though, the return spring had actually worked its way ito the plastic preventing the full action of the button.
I just added a 5x8 shim under the spring, and that shouldn't ever happen again.
Bearings were all fine, only slight discolour on the windings. The brushes and the stator are looking a tiny bit suspect... but they're ok.
It's not running as good as it used to, but it runs.
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Oh Damnit!!!!
I just finished the main part of the ET410 build, when to put the wheels on it to get a baseline for calibrating the ESC and the Schumacher truggy wheels don't fit due to some stupid extended plastic bracing on the inside of the wheel
Gotta order more wheels 😖 -
Outside of my normal job, I have been working day and night trying to bring myself up to speed with Fusion 360 in preparation for my CNC and 3D printers arriving.
Proved to be a real fight, but feeling good today after making a breakthrough in my knowledge.
👍
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The whole purpose of me doing this is to make sure when I progress passed 1 piece bumpers into more complex and potentionally more durable parts, I can be sure that things actually fit the models.
I don't exactly know if what I'm doing is the most efficient approach, but I am taking it seriously.
Can you tell what I'm working on?
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Reminder....
When brake cleaning CVDs in a sink, remember to put the plug in...#closeone
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Someone bought a Macbook charger off me on ebay 8 months ago for like, £15... just emailed me now and asked for a refund and return....
Yeah, right mate. MESSAGE DELETED
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Spent some time last night and some this morning converting all my ESCs and batteries to run on XT90 connectors.
Love the smell of burning flux when you have a hang over (not)
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What's the smallest size compressor you would deem actually worth spending money on?
Expected usage as cleaning RC, some painting, perhaps some air tool use in the future.
6L total waste of time?
10L pointless for anything more than pumping up a tire?
24L fairly normal?
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Sorry to butt in but I've also been looking at this kinda stuff.
I had a cheapy £50 one years ago that came with an airbrush and some paints, I thought it would be good for painting Airfix and RC bodies, turned out to be crap, wrong kind of paint and airbrush really, but didn't bother researching.
Instead of starting a new status/thread, is anyone using a budget friendly set up that works for RC bodies etc... ?
I don't mind a minute or two of spraying then letting the air compressor kick in, if it means saving some space and it being a bit cheaper.
And also what paint people are using?
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@Oh How Original anything tamiya, or anything acrylic from greenstuffworld for paints
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About to start a 30 hour 3D print, my longest and biggest yet... wish me luck!
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Absolute liars 😠
Been in all day, I have a doorbell and a dog, no way I miss a delivery, especially at 10:50
No Tekno for me today then
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My Typhon 6s was sitting outside the front door for six hours, in the open. Got delivered at 8ish, didn't get any notification, didn't ring/knock (i was awake and refreshing the DPD page every 30 seconds because i'm childishly excited), found the RC then in front of the door when we wanted to leave for shopping at 2ish.
It's not just Parcelforce that sucks in this.
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I didn't even get a card. I don't even think they loaded it onto a van, I think they just decided to not send it out yesterday and clicked the button on the system to say that it was by my request.
Thing is, I don't mind if they don't get it sorted and shipped on time due to a backlog, if they just admit this is the situation. When the tracking says, "customer requested xyz" is when my back gets up.
I presume this is to try and avoid refunds on the postage cost due to not meeting the delivery target, so I might talk to RPRC and find out if I can fight them to get my £3.99 back out of pure spite for the lie 😂
The package is on the map today though, so perhaps they will actually deliver it.
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Paul...no...they NEVER tryed to deliver. The scan shows you requesting later delivery..... 'addressee requested later delivery'
Contact the supplier, and give them the story and turn the screws. Tell them this:
What has happened is the depot have not put it on the van. Probably had a driver go sick ( it's Easter...with a couple of short weeks, and holiday is in demand. Folks dont get the time off...go sick) then, rather than show the failure....they have scanned it to make it look like you requested it, so the depot figures look better. Probably did it to hundreds of items. The item never moved, and you never requested a delivery...in fact...you took the day off to wait in JUST for this item as it was due.
If a delivery was 'attempted' you would see that.
How do I know this? Simple....I worked for Parcelforce for 27 years. Took redundancy this March. There isn't a trick I don't know 😉
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After bitter disappointment of missing out on a house with a ready to rock workshop in it... another one has popped up in a nicer part of town, that has a bigger garden.
I really, really really want to get this one... come on Mortgage broker, work your magic! -
After months of living on scraps in terms of freelance work... I think I may have landed a job.
Will be sad to say goodbye to the freelance world, but right now the world is just not set up for it.
It's a pretty good role at a company that has a lot of room for growth so there are big reasons to be happy looking forwards.- Show previous comments 7 more
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Well done and congrats @Paul Busby . Great way to start 2021.
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And the self-combusting XLX2 saga continues....
This guy didn't look to be doing anything at all wrong.- Show previous comments 6 more
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@Redback - The modes available are Sensored only, Smart Sensor, and Brushed. Smart sensor will detect if you have a sensor or not, and that's the one Kev was using when his went up. Not sure about this guy, but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and presume that he's using smart sensor.
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And today on Facebook RC groups we have:
Question - Why do people buy the Max 8 over the Max 6
Answer - Buy the XLX2, don't waste money on Hobbywing. 🤨