locky

I used Desolvit as had a can for many years but nor available now afaik, however Tamiya Polycarbonate Cleaner does the same, availability in uk is still poor,

I think you may need to cut holes in net around the heat sources in order for the hot air to escape as the net will still restrict air flow. Every solution has a side effect.

Yes they are reputable.

i've used old style, not MX38, 3.8 Badlands which arent too big for a 3.8 and also Backflip LP 4S on my truggies. Backflips are good value compared to MX38 Badlands. value https://www.applianceelectronics.co.uk/viewproduct/18292/backflip-lp-4s-tire-38-glued-black-2 https://www.applianceelectronics.co.uk/viewproduct/31847/18-badlands-fr-38-mt-tires-mounted-17mm-blk-raid-2

If there's minimal sideways play when diff assembled in housing then shim isnt critical. Normally shims go between bearing and gear not on outside. I havent had mine apart for a long time so dont remember there being a shim.

Renault are making some good designs, nice colour choice, hope it doesnt fade too quickly like red colours.

Installed the Pro Scale light kit and roll bar light to the F150 High trail. The software seems a bit buggy as some functions dont always work. I couldnt get the light bar to work in port M so tried it in port N and it is always on. Anyone else used their lighting? Reconnected light bat to port N and it now works. Using the app is also a bit laggy. I dont think the software reacts as quickly as the steering and throttle inputs to turn the indicator/brake/reverse lights on/off, so probably not buggy software but sometimes slow.

Online manual indicates 54 spur with 20 pinion on tarmac for brushless VXL.

Front or rear? Universal or standard driveshafts? Check droop settings. It did happen on one of mine but cant remember what I did to stop it, other than minimising droop.

Generally 16% - 20% nitro fuel for .12 - .18 size nitro engines. Fuel brand choice is limited these days so whatever you can get local or online. Medium glow plug such as HSP no4.

Aye, got 2 brushless and 2 nitro STs. Its been sometime since serviced the diffs so just going on memory and the bottles of oil I have left. You can always dilute a too thick oil with a thinner one, so the range of oils you have should be ok. What motor and esc will you be using?

I generally use Team Associated oil, so 250k cst in middle and 30k/20k cst in f/r. Mine probably need a service and top up as just ran them for first time this year and one sounds noisy. It comes down to preference and whether you can feel an actual difference when changing oil wgt. Thicker wgt in centre diff helps reduce front wheel ballooning.

I cant remember exactly what oil wgt I have in mine but it will be in the low 100s for brushless not 10s for centre diff. If you have the spider diff then it is a pain to fill.

You can hold it by the grab handle off the ground and accelerate to full throttle, you should hear and feel it change if your tune is good and rpms are high enough and it is set up correct. You need a longer run to reach full throttle for long enough so unlikely to manage this in your garden unless you are very brave and can brake soon enough.

Do you mean the lsn is very easy to adjust, which would indicate orings are worn or damaged. If there is little resistance when turning then it will move from the desired position when running.

Try cutting a short length from a small zip tie, place in stripped hole and retighten screw making sure zip tie is sandwiched between screw and edge of hole.

Good news at last! Hopefully a free replacement? We dont learn much when things go right. Now dont go and break it.

Buna/nitrile. Let us know if you find a source that has a range of sizes suitable for carb needles.

No

The front bearing isnt designed to be an air tight seal, if there isnt much oil build up around it then not an issue. The seal is internal between the crankcase, crank and fuel boundary layer. When engine is at idle spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner from an aerosol at potential leak points. If there is a leak then aerosol spray will be sucked into the engine and the rpms will drop or it will stall due to insufficient oxygen. It is often recommended to use rtv sealant on the backplate and carb when reassembling, which should ensure an air tight seal, allow the sealant to go off before running.

A small air leak at front is common depending how you perform the air leak test . The MSN should be flush, you can try to line up its holes to be inline with HSN when near flush. Just make sure its orings are still good as they will harden with age and the needle can then rotate during use.

Stock servos arent really strong enough so get 35kg+ for steering and 20kg with quick speed for throttle/brake. The plastic steering servo arm will strip so use a metal arm. Check all bearings, you dont need to get hpi ones, just use the bearing size and order from eg. rc bearings etc. Shim the diffs so that there is no side-to-side play and front-to-back for the bevel gear. Any thick grease will work in diff, such as redntacky or similar. The 'ofna' throttle mod is worth doing, used to be an available kit, you need two sliders (fastrax) and a rod which you cut bend to replace original throttle rod. You can use the existing servo arm after removing the top section. Red fibre glass brakes are best. You can lower c of g by fitting a 10mm length of tubing inside each shock on the shaft, helps handling. Shock oil between 30-45wt depending on your springs and preference. Aluminium clutch shoes with 0.9mm springs. If A tuned pipe maybe better than the plastic exhaust. A 6v hump pack instead of 4xAAs. Check that there orings inside the diff cups. Check slipper pad condition. Usually recommended with it fully tightened, but dont over tighten. Loctite all metal to metal bolts. Check screws in plastic havent stripped. Check engine plate isnt cracked. Check failsafe is set up to prevent runaway. Check air filter isnt full of dirt. Check suspension arms arent cracked at front where hinge pins go. Check transmission/gearbox, no damaged teeth, if covered in grease then clean as running dry is ok.

I can only see parts list for the Cage, not a complete kit even the nitro. Would have got one at that price,.

Hi, do you have a link to this truggy, maybe it's no longer available as cant find it.