Nitroholic

Look online for a manual, assuming you don;t have one. There is usually an exploded diagram. If there is a grub screw, you will see it on the diagram.

Heng Long RC tank ..... with BB firing gun. You could rig up a small camera system to give you visibilty

damn. I want this shell. No idea what I;d do with it except look at it....but...well...

Yes you can ..... In RC t erms, pretty much anything can be done. I built a 6WD Hyper 7 last summer for fun. I have a twin engined Savage, my Firestorm has a mid mounted brushless motor. What mods? ALL of them. You will have to make your own engine mounts, find room for the motor, sort out gearing, find space for the fuel tank you will need (bigger than the stock one for sure ) and then find out how long hte diff and driveshafts will last. Will you get a good result? Will it be driveable, will it break all the time? Depends on your fabrications skills and what parts you can add. Fitting smaller big block motors have been done, but I have not seen anything as large as a 5.9 put in.

Meanwhile..... in the chill of the garage ( so glad to have a roof over hte bikes now ) the daily Harley developed a weepy fork seal. As the roads have been gritty and saltry of late, that needed sorting as the grit sticks to the oil smears, and turns into grinding paste. Now...Harley liked shiny covers on the fork seals, with dust caps underneath. Muck trap!!! When I drifted off the covers....I found this: The dust cap had gone rotten, and there was a lot of moisture trapped in there too. Bought a complete seal kit with new clips, seals, drain screws, o-rings...everything. £25. Bargain. Was a pretty simple strip down, Fresh fork oil, plus a good chance to clean and tidy. Also took the opportunity to copper grease the mudguard bolts etc. Finally..I treated myself to a set of fork gaiters. Harley went to this layout for the Iron Sportys in 2010...so I did the same. Looks a lot better and keeps the muck off the fork tubes. Put a new set of front pads in as well. While it was all apart. Next job is to relocate the ECU from under the seat. Prevents fitting different seats. Not room under the side panel on these. Harley went to a smaller oil tank to make room on 2010 models..,.. but I have a plan. If there isn;t room under the side panel..make room! I now have a pattern side panel which I am widening by about 20mm to make room. Panel is made of 1mm steel, so it;s a cut and weld job.

Dream 50R .... nice little retro. Captures the look of the old race bikes nicely. @everclear1984 ..reminds me of swapping plugs on an SV1000S. The front plug you can see but not remove...until the rad, oil cooler and lines are out of the way. And thats the easy one. Part of the reason I loved my 900 Hornet so much was the fact that ALL the routine maintenance jobs were easy.

Basically....you can;t really do this with a single servo.... If I wanted to set up something like this, I would simply double up the servo and use a second rod to pull the brake. You would need to make up a new actuating arm for the brake, and find a place to mount a second servo. Then just operate that servo on the third channel alone. Most third channel functions are 'on/off' not propertional, so you will have no brake ...or all the brake you are going to get ... so make sure you can adjust the brake force physically with the actuating mechanism. But, yes. It should certainly be possible

Starter box is basically a motor with a rubber wheel that contacts the cars engine flywheel when you press the car onto it. A contact switch starts the motor, which spins the flywheel turning the motor over until it fires. You will often find the starter box has a glow plug igniter wire that runs off it's battery too....as hte glow plug needs power when starting up.

Yeah.....theory and practice are different beasts, and when I did this...I saw no improvement in anything. When the bearings wore out, I replaced the brace with an IRC one that was thicker and that served me just as well and was more resilient to muck and rubbish.

I bought some top-hat type bearings, drilled out hte brace to suit, and pushed them in. Can;t say I noticed much difference TBH.

https://usermanual.wiki/Document/tamiyarisingfightermanual.1472891499 dry version for you!

why? The larger wheels would mess with the gearing, and would either result in an over stressed motor/ESC or you would need to lower the gearing to compensate. Larger wheels would give you slightly more ground clearance...but you are not going to notice it on a 1/16 truck.

hmmm....well. I haven;t used my larger RC's for a year or two, so I think maybe it's time to...build a project out of one. Wanted to build a half-track based on an HPI Baja drive train. So might do that this summer. Want to build a 1/24 sacale crawler course in my garage, and will include some micro RC heli landing spots on there too. As this year...I also want to actually learn to fly my micro CP heli. Picked up a used old mCX co-ax, as I haven;t flown for a while, and need to get back into the swing of it with something controllable. Might look at a 1/16 tank build from scratch too. Kept meaning to do it... 3D print mixed with flat styrene sheet composite build. Got a few ideas.

I got a small pink 1/24 FTX Landy .... which has already been driven round the garage a few times.

Just check if they modified the chassis to make it fit too.

I think this simply comes down to needing clearance for the spur gear here. In the same way Nitro cars need a clearance hold for the spur. Otherwise, you have to mount hte motor higher, which thenmakes hte driveline layout less simple. It's easier to just make a hole in the chassis. A plastic cover would stop debris getting in...but...would snag on anything the car drove over and probably get torn off. You could probably make a cover of sorts with a piece of lexan ( bodyshell material ) but you would need to mount it on the diff mount screws, which isn;t ideal.

Funds send for 'Lil Pinky' time to build a little indoor course in the garage to play with this when it's not so cold I got frost on the INSIDE of the garage door!

Gaz mate..I'm gonna regret this in the morning.... but I kind of like the pink Landy. I haven't been drinking....honest. Sell it to me quick before I change my mind/sober up

When soldering bullets, I always use the block of wood thing to hold them. Even for occasional use, though, a decent soldering iron is so much nicer to use. I had a cheapo one, and everything about it was annoying. From a flex that wanted to 'curl' and make the iron roll over if I rested it on a stand though to wobbly tips and unpredicvtable heating times. I also have a big chunky Weller iron. The good iron is so much nicer to use. I solder better with it too as a result

Generally speaking, runtime is down to the size of the battery. Highr mAH ratings will last longer. LiPo batteries put out more power, and as you run them down, don;t drop voltage in the same waya NiMh does. They take more care, and need to be properly looked after, but they will make your car run better. In practice, the usable runtime tends to be longer as well. Just make sure your ESC has a properly set low voltage cutoff Last thing.... when I last ran a LiPo on a brushed motor, the motor got pretty hot and didn;t last. It was a cheapy RTR motor, and the extra power the battery made available gave the motor issues. So be aware. You may need to watch the gearing, and certainly the motor temperatures.

I've never really had issues melting connectors.... only when I was using old-school Deans type. Then, I found things went better if I plugged both halves of the connector together when I was soldering. Gives a slightly bigger heat sink. I also used a fairly broad flat tip on the soldering iron to get good heat transfer. The longer you leave the iron on...the more heat transfers tot he plastic, and the more likely you are to melt it. I also found that holding both halves of the connector was easier. Tin the wires and the connector and let it cool Flux will help solder melt and flow, and with flux cored solder... when you tin the wires and connector surface....the flux goes. A dab of extra flux helps the joint to form faster. Or...seems to for me!

Ran a KM clone and genuine HPI Baja side by side for a while. Only thing I found about clone that needed close attention was the prep. Diff and gears were poorly greased, and the threadlocking was not what I would want. I bought the absolute bottom end KM clone, which had awful cheap servos and wheels without a reinforcing band. Wasn;t fussed...as I had intended to replace those parts with upgrades anyway....so I wasn;t fussed. Haven't run a Rovan clone, but I have seen one in the flesh, and I was not impressed. Buy a KM clone....but strip it down, replace the diff oil, regrease the gearbox, and reassemble with threadlock where its needed. Also...if your choice of KM doesn;t have an alloy clutch support...buy and fit one. Look at things like the servos and radio gear, and if you aren;t happy...plan to upgrade. A lot of the clones RC Modelz sell have had upgrades applied....just dont bother with alloy suspension arms. Plastic is better here.

I would say dead too. Very dead. Unbolt it and open up the motor can if possible. See how many bits fall out. Unless the car is less than a year old, in which case....contact the shop about a warranty.

I'd probably get in trouble running that at my local park.....

Yeah do it . I did it to mine. Just install a low voltage buzzer, and be sure not to forget to turn the damn thing off when you pack everything away.