Nitroholic

defintely body clips! I'd also get one of these: https://www.evolutionmodels.co.uk/product/tt-041-multiple-hex-spanner-wrench/ Lots of similarly branded ones out there, but I wouldn;t go out without mine. Both for adjusting tie rods and as a general spanner for the sizes you are going to find on an RCR

Well obviously you would be stupid to buy a boat ..... you buy TWO boats to be sensible. Then...when the first boat capsizes or breaks down in the middle of hte pond...the second boat goes out to recover it. Now, the second boat MIGHT also run into difficulties...so a third boat is a sensbile precaution. And a hovercrafgt

The Traxxas suggested up there is probably the most well known, longest lived and best supported in terms of parts, upgrades etc. It's got everything you need in the box, but it's a brushed motor with NiMh batteries. What that means is that, whilst it is very easy to upgrade to brushless and make it a lot faster...the battery, motor, ESC and charger will all be replaced. It's an old design.....but tough as old boots. I have a Stampede, the 2WD monster truck version of basically the same platform. It's been upgraded, messed with and hammered for years. Personally...I hate Traxxas and their money grabbing....and personally think a design this old should not be this pricey..... but....If you want a truck that you can still be hammering years from now, when then that's it. Over time, you will want better servos, brushless motor, new ESC and of course, LiPo batteries and charger.....but the basic car can handle a LOT more power. Mine has had the full works, and the only thing I notice is drive shafts don;t last as long. The Strada is a decent budget truck, and gives you quite a lot in terms of bang for your buck. Not as tough as the Rustler, but it is brushless, so will have more speed. It comes with a battery...but it's a NiMh pack...so expect cogging and performance dropoff. Run times will improve with LiPo, but you would need battery and charger to suit...which again will push the budget up a little. The Kyosho and Losi probably offer less in terms of value for money. The Losi is smaller.....and the Kyosho needs battery and charger....so final price will be well above the £200 by the time you run that one. The Corally and Team Associated I don;t know...Corally does look interesting, but check for spares support etc. Thats key to long life and enjoyment of your new truck.

My only reason for preferring brushless is that when I have gone LiPo on a brushed motor...it's died very fast. Admittedly, these were not high end motors....but even so. They got very hot, and very dead. Brushless gave longer run times, and a longer life. But...a 15T would be a step up in performance on NiMh, just not quite as much. A MadBull on brushless ought to be a lot of fun though.

Nice 🙂 Especially as there was actually nothing I could suggest new for sub £200.

This is why I suggest contacting the airline ahead of travel and getting a response. Being able to pull out a response from the airline stating it's OK, laying down any conditions and showing you complied tends to shut up the awkward person, and gives you some comeback in the event of real problems.

Something like a Quicrun 60A should be OK ...couple ot with a 4-pole 3300Kv 3660 motor, and it should be fun enough on 2S LiPo. I think the Mad Bull is an opld school 540 motor. The only thing to avoid with the motors is the ones with deep finned cooling grooves on the case. They are not true 540 motors, but actually smaller rotors in a can made to look larger than it ought. The big wheels on your MadBull need torque, and thopse motors won;t have any.

Oil shocks will make a big difference over tired Tamiya friction damped ones. Running brushless on NiMh isn;t really worth doing. You won't see the benefit really. Running your brushed motor on LiPo, though, would mean you get a lot less voltage dropoff. Might wear your motor out faster though..... If you go brushless, so for a fairly mild setup. The MadBull driveline isn;t really intended to take a lot of power, and you will run into gearing issues.

Right....welll...the vid isn;t exactly showing a great deal to help here.... Vid 1: Car shoots off screen, and I can hear gears slipping horribly as it continues to run full speed after it's been stopped by something. Is the problem that the car goes off on it's own at full throttle....or was that you doing it? If the latter..please ...DON'T! Vid 2: Running under no load, the thing is sounding rough. Thats the noise of damaged or poorly meshed gears. Either in the diffs, or the spur/pinion gears. You will need to look under the shell to see whats going on there. If this all started with a pop....then something broke. You will need to find out what, but it's something not right with the transmission.....so start with the motor and make sure it's mounted properly and tight, and not coming loose. Check the meshing between the pinion gear on the motor and the spur gear on the main driveline. Check condition of the gears. Then check the ceantral driveshaft os spinning smoothly, check your wheel bearings and the driveshadts and cups on all the wheels. You are looking for things that don;t spin smoothly, or that feel rough, notchy, or grindy when they shouldn't.

I would guess shock oil, as with all other 'liquids' is subject to controls and limits on amounts. I wouldn't pack stuff like that personally. Lipos are the main issue, but you may also find there are restrictions on carrying the transmitter in your hand luggage. I doubt security will be all that happy to find a radio transmitter in your carry on......so I would ne asking the airline and getting a response I could verify. Being very clear about what goes in the baggage for the hold, and what goes in hand luggage avoids the awkward situation where you find yourself ejected from a flight thanks to over zealous reactions to your harmless bit of holiday fun.

The first question to ask yourself here is WHY are you replacing the gears. Have you had any failures of the nylon gears, or are you planning to put a MUCH spicier motor in and preparing it for more power? Now, when it comes to mixing materials, it'#s pretty common to have plastic spur gears driven by a metal pinion gear. Doesn;t cause any issues, but will mean the part that wears is the plastic bit...and in the event of any stress loading, the metal gear will eat the plastic one. If it was my car, I would repace the diffs with metal if I could, and fit metal ring and pinion gears in tehre if they exist. The pinion gear could be metal ( but don;t buy cheap ones.... as poorly manufactured pinions will damage the spur) Last on the list would be the spur gear. BUT....unless I was able to do it properly and upgrade the diffs, and if it was holding together just fine without.....then I would leave it be. Get some decent grease in the diff cases, and let it be.

There are a number of things that can cause this ...... 1) Idle setting. If the idle isn;t properl;y set, it can be 'holding' on the servo, so as you brake to a halt...the inlet closes copmpletely and the motor dies. Easy to check...just pop off the air filter, and power up the servo. Then brake. You will see if the throttle stays on the stop and maintains the required 1mm opening. 2) Fuel air/vapour locking. Check your fuel lines are in good order, and firmly sealed on the tank and carb. Make sure there are no kinks, and check if it is routed neatly and as far away from hot things as you can. Fuelling problems will be masked at higher throttle opening partly by tune...and partly because the exhaust is putting more pressure into the tank. 3) Glow plug could be starting to fail. That can cause all sorts of issues. Plug heat range should not really have issues only when hot. I would start with a thorough check over, and possibly renewal of the fuel lines. Can't hurt....and it's cheap to do. Also check the seal around the tank top while you are at it. If you have a spare glowplug...try it and see how that helps. Check the idle setting and the servo so it definitely stops on the stop screw. Don;t know how much use the motor has had..,.. but if its getting past its best..that usually manifests when the motor is hot, as the compression starts to fade. When its cold, its naturally tighter, so that hides it.

I hope they lose massively, get hit with huge costs....and go away and stop being idiots. If they would just maybe focus these efforts on making better cars, then the world would be a happier place abd there would be no need for them to stress over their brand image, as we would all know it for what it was. As it is ....we just know them for what they are....

Hold on... Traxxas have worked out you need bigger diffs in a 1/8 than in a 1/10 ..... wow. Who knew....

Erratic idle is most likely an air leak. Possibly around the carb neck, as thats something you have disturbed.

if you fit a 6V 4200Mah pack.....all it does is run for longer. If the receiver was intended to run off a 6V source, then it will be fine. If you went to a higher voltage, you might get issues if your receiver wasn;t designed to handle it.

I assume you have had to disconnect the battery/kill switch to install the Sym Steer kit? Most likely, you have a connection issue or something not wired up correctly after you put it all back together. Normally...if I swap something and find I got something not working.....I go back and double and triple check wwhat I just installed. No guarantee that's the issue, as it could be pure coincidence, but its where I would start

I'd be starting by looking for a cracked head or a blown base gasket ..... I assume you have checked your fuel is flowing and the plug is getting something to ignite?

On the subject of all things Honda ...... my stalled shed project has got fully underway now I am no longer constrained by a shed, but own a fully functional spacious and weatherproof garage space! Took one scabby and unloved CB750F2 of 1978 vintage, threw away some tatty aftermarket rubbish ( high bars and a rotten king and queen seat )it is slowly coming along. re-chromed forks, rebuilt with fresh seals and rubbers, repainted lowers and yokes. Fully rebuilt brakes, painted with high temp caliper paint and put togetyher with stainless pistons and new seals and dust covers. New brake lines and a master cylinder rebuild kit finish that off. New shocks and a repainted frame and swingarm. Fuel tank was in great shape.....after I removed huge amounts of filler that had hidden the badge mounts. I expected to find dents...but it was near perfect under the filler! CR750 pattern solo seat has been modified to use the stock hinge mounts and lock....so I can open the seat. Repro side panel to fill the one that was missing....and I made a fibreglass extension to the tank to fill the gap between the seat and fuel tank, mimicing hte look of the long CR750 race tanks without ruining a very good condition one. Rear master cylinder was beyond saving.....and to keep the race look...I have picked up a set of CBR600 pegs and hangers along with rear M/C .... will make some plates to fit the original mount points, and have a ganuine HRC rear reservoir setup to go on. The pic shows the wooden mockup peg mounts. Still have much to do on the motor and exhaust system....

Gotta be the one with the full fairing

best way to ruin a tune......mess with every needle. Also the best weay to ensure its impossible to find the issue causing the problem. Set it back to stock.correctly set idle, tune MAIN needle only....and if it won't accept throttle.....find the air leak. Also....there is no rule against starting your own thread. Slapping it on the end of a 2 year old thread someone else made is a great way to get your post ignored. Pure luck I even saw it because the title is NOT relevant to your problem. Much more likely to get seen and get help

It's possible to turn one into a reasonable truck.... all you need to do is replace the diff with an FG one, replace the diff mounts and motor mounts with same. Then replace the driveshafts, drive cups and hexes along with the wheels. Also replace the layshaft and the brake assembly while you are at it, as they woin;t fit the FG mounts. That sorts the back end. You might weant to replace the lower arms as they break. And the upper ones. Then perform a similar operation on the front to sort out the steering and replace all the servos if they are the stock ones. Lastly replace the shocks with ones that don;t leak. Oh...the engine and carb will be low rent clone ones...so....maybe swap them out. Makes the car OK apart from a bendy chassis and a brittle shell. I reckon with £500 thrown at it, it could be OK.....

don't use AVC ..... won't use AVC. If I can;t make my car go where I want it, I either need to learn to drive better or improve the car so it works better. Both are the things I enjoy most about the hobby.

Well....they both run on DSMR .... so in theory it might work...but...don't expect to get full functionality from it. There is also a good chance the units will simply not bind and they are not cheap.

Yeah .. it's a fun job for sure. You could wrap some tape around the outside edge of the flywheel and grip it with a pair of mole-grips. I never had much of a problem with it turning. Just make 100% sure you are fitting the shoes the right way round. It's not a job I love so much I would want to do it twice......