Nitroholic

There are different tooth pitches etc. for pinions. You need to know what the correct one is for your spur gear and get a pinion to match. a 15T pinion in 32dp is different to one in 48Dpp or Mod 1 or Mod 0.7 or whatever you have. Looks like you have been supplied with a pinion that has the tooth count that should work...but the wrong pitch. Hence the teeth being just too small

Mil-Tec backpack. 36L is what I have. link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192884555462?_skw=mil+tec&epid=1713314728&itmmeta=01JPJWKWHZ0C8314MJPADR60F9&hash=item2ce8d0bec6:g:WLAAAOSwZ5Bl1yff&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e%2Fle7SO1MUW2HkazdpEBWLkPfG12YDKPPzUSw5lGrNInQfbkuoCz7OfUu7GIiHoEbyRVRNGufFmi%2FpvdoDtwic%2BfwM%2BKGhUFpI%2FsEDdPIreAHmgTvD6z7eh69apeMTYjBcw%2FyEQiSLjHBArdTL7xOE6f7tiTLHjxesT0bCVnLR5PjxVlRt%2F55XvhNdtXHarQ6yxtdJVJMVap41mAIdkbx8W6qXaC%2BBHYNgcJJxysViB2ZMllhywQCSFugGxOYyEwFPjjLcLqq%2B8gSbE2d3%2FR4s|tkp%3ABk9SR5jJz9y0ZQ Aside from the Molle attachment facility ( it is covered in loops you can hook bungees or carbiner clips too) the main section has a zip that goes around 3 sides to coimpletely open up for loading. Still has another large pocket and 2 more front pockets for tools and bits. About £40 on E-Bay for the genuine article. I have used mine every day for work as well and it muct be nearly 10 years old by now and still solid. If it don't fit in....it's easy to attach to it

glad you got it sorted!

I'd be taping the tyres, is it could be ballooning causing the issue. CA glue shuold be fine for most uses.

It isn't perfect in terms of balance as the 300 pack is slightly longer, and I might just add a tiny bit of ballast to compensate, but I was able to trim it to fly like it should. If anyone needs to make one, I can make the STL file available. The connectors for these are Micro JST 1.25 2 Pin. You just connect red to red and black to black. I am going to slightly modify the STL file to make a tiny recess for the JST plug to sit in, plus make a channel for the wires to sit in. The thin wires need to run along the printed part right into the corner to allow for the battery to sit snug, and I can see there is room.

I have in my collection of E-Flite micro helis, the blade tandem twin. Lovely thing, and pretty hard to find. Problem is, it uses a slightly unusual size of battery with a specific size and shape. It fits into a corresponding slot to plug directly onto the mainboard. I managed to get one new one, but that was the only one I have eveer found. So...I looked to see what I could find similar. Closest match I can locate is the 1S 300Mah cells that fit a lot of other micro helis...including the MSRx I recently bought. So, how to make the bottom pack fit where the top pack was meant to go! Step one was to identify and buy some of teh right connectors. These are readily available, and I had got some I bough to make charging adaptors a while back. I needed to replicate the plastic cover on the pack, which needed some careful measuring..3D modelling and printing. The finished item was then mated to the male connector with a drop of CA glue. The join will be reinforced with some hot glue from the inside too. The wires were routed down the side as the new pack is narrower. Then it is just a case of glueing the pack in and soldering up the wires. There is a fractional increase in weight, but the pack has a bit more power which should compensate for any loss in flight time. The old pack didn;t have a C rating, but I assume it's the same as the mCX, which is 25C. The Turnigy packs are 45C, so more punchy. Might need to add some epoxy to the join, as the hot glue is not perfect and seems a little more flexy than I want as the pack is plugged in directly. It does work though! Will also need to look at how the wires hold up, as they are quite thin...but the pins in the stock battery are tiny...so they can;t be pulling much current.

OK...assuming this is using rear dogbone type driveshafts, I would start by looking at the basics. 1) Rear axles. What size bearings do they use. If the internal radius of the bearing is known, something like an HPI Firestorm rear axle and hexes could be used. Shims or spacers might be required to get it to fit the driveshafts. 2) If the parts don't fit ... look for axle bearings with the correct external size for the hubs, and the right internal diameter for your donor axles. 3) If your wheels sit on pins fed through the axle, prevented from flying out by the wheel...This is how a lot of wheel hexes fit the axles. Measure your axle diameter, and look for parts that have the diameter to sit on teh axle OK. Then pin the hex in place. Again, spacers might be required to get things to sit where they are needed. It all depends how much tinkering you are preapred to do. A photo of the axle with the critical dimensions might help us find you some parts that will work with standard 12mm 1/10 wheel hexes.

Just got to print off the ones I need for the rest now...

So, what do you do when your collection has got a bit larger than planned, and you want to store the things..but also...display them a little. Well, that's easy. You make a copter hook! Recently bought a new 3D printer, which was a little faster and more modern than my old Wanhao I3. She's been a good workhorse, but I have used it for years, and it'sa still the original printer..just with new hotend, bed, micro switches...well..you know how it goes. Now I have a Flashforge Adventurer 5M. Many times faster. So I figured this was a good project. Half an hour of modelling...and I came up with this: Takes about 20 minutes to print and fits all of the micro helis I tested it on. mCX, mSR, Nano CP ...all fit. My Tandem one will need 2...obviously! Screw it to the wall or a board or a shelf edge, and the blades sit on the little arms in the little recess. Main shaft runs through the middle. Lovely. Now I can make some more 🙂

If you bought it new ...go back to the shop and they should supply a replacement. If you bought it second hand....welcome to the hobby. Stuff does break. Replace with a better quality unit. RTR fitted servos are often not hte best units out there. They are usually sourced to be as good as they need to be for as little cost as they can get away with.

Sounds like a gearing issue then. What Redback is saying is that the thinner wires on your adaptor are going to provide a higher resistance as the battery is under load. This generates heat. If it is too bad, the wires can melt. It will also reduce the power you are drawing slightly. Best practice is to avoid this. Provided the connectors are good quality, using wire that is the same thisckness as your ESC and battery wires will be better.

I used the CAD approach too. Works well, and it's a lot cheaper to do it that way. I save the card backs off A4 notepads at work for the purpose.

this might help some: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326371024861?_skw=hyper+7&itmmeta=01JJYGSPTQ5GJ7A4WG10SHSFMN&hash=item4bfd3a9fdd:g:b7wAAOSwUPhnXH01&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnj%2FolMaJtX%2BLYOMZiIDjSuKgfsSPH5m%2BeA11JhdZSvgygVo5bz0zM9ic9kA6QTEED4FxwSDQ4Ompfr9HUE3y7LqbR506FLG2Q%2Bji%2Ft3zhjDigTx3kxMeKWRKh0D%2F4EaErYamnBMz64aOG3gXbmBMORc0r2s%2F%2BbbUGWN9D8Fv7ttiTZIQyZrUA8dRxNPBM47%2BYCQIGtL%2Fj5rQ2o0HTnUmdLsI2R6HGwvldN1EcEGpjGB0Lsz4AHEzyVB9L2ImQhcZoL8zV9mYEPCEHvuOIq3Fbq|tkp%3ABk9SR8jt5tCXZQ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176632690940?_skw=hyper+7&itmmeta=01JJYGVXSHN5KFYP0CG2SD563R&hash=item292020f8fc:g:ghIAAOSwzkZnD~Q1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmd9KQxJW11KrK82nPUdvBB2R5Eo6OH6UmqD4iH88qhIz5JG6SL%2Bj5wCFhTJsDrOcrP7CRTLnxk6Hu1wjBqq9CpQryYUv2PoPzHnly2ERdZy3v8Ha3nRU71ifIhfHjm0J4%2BGxluKJN0O87URL1GLgEsWqSdzF991%2FVXyb3hgenJ%2FyONRIJ542H1lZGZf4%2BmwsX2dgxmukuLGyqXKc6ASTBqr5G%2BGkodX3p5S8sjuxEmLTrfUlvw1X5LBYfUn5LttFOgFoyZrv7k0IY2jYeqvYna|tkp%3ABFBM9tzv0Jdl https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155289177731?_skw=hyper+7&epid=21024654275&itmmeta=01JJYGXBSMX7JQKT7T3KZP1AS4&hash=item2427f4ce83:g:kpgAAOSwjXZbvMJK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkxSsu5uJmSr2SXv1o076d2mIR85x4T370zQ374Ihef%2FxaatGgth58BbQOHaUD3VKOA8iBOPDr8VD9JcJ6zXugpulGx%2FE%2Fp7hCQEbm2CLFD2UYGR6F7nIhfuCb41omT3TPXLbfZOmW44F%2FJXnivd5EbZ5tAd1HZZ6G%2BTWv%2BSQtSY10TYtQ3Asd%2FFOU8ddCnx1JNNFLX15I6eaXpXzCr540%2B%2Fwmw5co8qWaeVRM8UZZH4l4hwkCUonq%2FaulS405aPT7%2Fhegy%2BDbiwYkmiyy2vzAy|tkp%3ABk9SR_a89dCXZQ Front ends are probably out there, but you may need to get them in sections. Diffs and housings are the same front/rear, just wiuth different shock towers and arms. Plus, of course, you will need steering parts. It's the way it goers now it seems. These things used to be available in bucketloads, now they seem a bit rare. Still out there though, just not as common. Good luck with the search.

Can't bring myself to sell my twin nitro engined Savage, my Kyosho Madforce with unobtainium upgrades, or my 6WD 4WS Hyper 7 brushless conversion. Probably some others like my remaining 5th scale petrol truck, or the Mini Savage, or the Heng Long tank.......

Highly subjective, and very much down to driving style. My preference is for 10k centre diff, with 7k front and 3K rear. Balances the power front to rear, and gives a slightly looser rear. But I'm no racer. You just need to get yourself a starting point, and try a few variations.

For your budget...get a good used Baja. Plenty of spares, and they are reliable once sorted. Accident damage is down to the driver....

Hmm...this year... I want to get properly stuck in with my resin 3D printer and the vac former to start making scale bodies and parts for my fleet of micro helicopters. That, and to finally take the guts of my last 1/5 petrol and build a half track. Or maybe find a good way to put the motor into a 1/8 Savage chassis. If I am really organised...I might even get around to making a shell for my 6WD 4WS brushless Hyper 7. And give it some proper tyres on the back to replace the bald ones on there now.

Going from cold to warm is the killer for condensation. But generally, I have never kept my RC stuff in the house, and never had an issue. If I bring stuff in, though, I always let it warm up for a bit before I power on.

My guess would be an Annsman Virus, judging by the green anodising and white springs, but hte chassis looks wrong. Not much left to go on tbh.

Get something small, light, cheap and less scary, and learn to fly an RC helicopter. Save this relic for when you are more confident and can enjoy it without ruining it. Something like that Kyosho was not the easiest of things to learn on, and if you found it a bit scary, then that would just make everything more tricky. A small coax heli is dead easy to fly, and won't cost a great deal. Then graduate to a single rotor FP heli, and then think about moving to something larger. These little helis are light, less prone to damage, and won't do mare than sting a little if you flew it right into yourself. So nothing to be scared of.

I am assuming it's V1, as it doesn't say V2 anywhere. But, like you say, it's an easy upgrade. I will keep an eye out when looking for spares.

2 new arrivals this festive season! First up, a little co-ax Blade Scout. Didn;t have one...and this turned up for less than £10, so I had to rehome it. Came with original box and packing, but the canopy was split quite badly along the underside. A replacement is on it's way. It's not really a regular flyer, but it fills out the collection. Second new arrival was an absolute bargain! Blade MCPx. New in box. Box had been opened by heli never flown. You can tell it hasn;t. Not a mark on the blades, canopy or tail, and the gears have no marks to indicate wear or use. No grubby marks or fluff anywhere. Came with DX4 TX and a couple of batteries. Have bound up the TX, charged a battery and run it up on hte deck, to make sure all the controls work as they should, and it's all good. Everything works. Even had the still packed TX batteries, though these wre unservicable and have been sent to the recycling. She's a little beauty. £50 paid. It was on E-Bay BIN, and I wasn;t going to wait and try and snag a lowball bid. I know a good deal when I see one, and if I didn;t jump, someone else would have. This one wasn't going to hang around.

Looks to me like an old Kyosho Nexus. I got given an old RC helicopter of similar vintage. Spares are going to be an issue if you intend to try and fly it. Nice for the collector, but not really worth much unless you got a pristine one with box and instructions etc. Certainly can be made flyable if you are prepared to invest the time and money.

best sound module I found for a 1/5 was a Zenoah 28cc 4-bolt with a dominator pipe.

Looks like a smallblock nitro motor. You can use 25% on it... but it doesn't need it. It will run just fine on lower nitro %. Also worth looking at the oil % in your chosen fuel as much as the nitro. The bulk of the fuel is made up of methanol, so too much oil leads to a smoky under-performing engine. But, it's more tolerant of a poor tune. By tolerant..I mean won't lean sieze and destroy itself. That motor would probably run just fine on 16% or 20%. I did find, though, that some motors run cooler on higher nitro contents. If you have 25%...try it.