CJM

Hi All Was servicing my Fastrax Enduro carb as was running sticky, found a bad oring and stupidly put the wrong oring on the idle screw and split the body. Ordered a new carb from a company on Sunday and still waiting. Anyone in Scotland near Falkirk/Central belt have a compatabile carb I could use to rebuild mine? I suspect all the Hobao and Fastrax carbs are the same. Have the needles and orings but the body is broken. Hoped to take the car out this bank holiday weekend but it's not looking promising. Can anyone help please.

Hey folks Have been running my hyper 7 for around a month now and loving it but considering an upgraded engine for it. Have not been finding the .21 3 port 2016 edition that easy to tune, although I have got it running pretty good I would like something with a bit more grunt. Have been leaning towards an lrp zr.32 spec 4 pullstart, but parts availability seems to be limited in the UK and rather expensive. However, they do seem to get very good reviews. What are the current best available options for an engine around the budget of a zr.32. Preferring pullstart at this point. Don't want to spend a fortune, but would like something reliable and easier to tune (top priority) with low maintenance costs (a nice to have). Any suggestions appreciated.

That was my thinking as well, pulling air in from somewhere, seems to get worse as engine heats, cuts out about 5 secs after video ends. Been scratching my head with this engine for days now. Was doing it with the old carb, and then the new one as well. Replaced the orings on the carb and the HSN and tried again oiling up LSN, HSN and carb orings, took all settings back to default, fresh fuel, new glow plug try again. Same As it is a new car I have sent it away for inspection, suspect a bad oring or gasket on the engine. Will see what they come back with on Monday Anyone seen this before can not get rid of this no matter what I try. Tried tweaks on the LSN and HSN from factory and does not seem to improve either way. Got me stumped, then again I have not got that much experience, but would not expect this at factory settings.

Hi folks I broke in my engine recently as per manuf recommendation, but since new noticed I had an issue with the HSN, has been very tight to adjust since new, acting like a spring during small adjustments, and found it difficult to tune. I found when removing the HSN to check after breaking in the engine that the oring was split with a large chunk jammed between the needle and housing. Spoke to the UK distributors and they sent a new carb. (Superb service BTW) Replaced the carb today with the new unit they sent, checked was at correct needle start points after running in the engine (2 1/4 out on HSN and just out from flush on LSN) The idle is dancing about like it's playing a song after warm up, revs OK up to full accel, good smoke trail, but did occasionally stall, adjusted idle screw and no difference. I did try small adjustments on the LSN but didn't seem to change. Any ideas folks?

Definitely mate, it's a learning curve. Been a service engineer long enough to realise not most things dont arrive as they should be, and there are so many variables with these things it only takes 1 to mess up your day. Sure I will get it, just take a bit of patience and practice. What would you recommend to check for the throttle servo? How should it be set for the brake and throttle? I have been round all fixings and all were OK, pull cord body screws needed a slight nip up but suspect this is not the end of the world. Starting is proving a challenge as well, but will probably get much better as time goes on, and easier as the engine beds in. Was a buzz when I got the engine idling, it is a superb bit of kit! Are there any clubs near Falkirk who could offer a little assistance if things get frustrating, I am sure an experienced person would see what I am doing and point out my mistakes within minutes.

Well good news, after resetting the needles to defaults, and starting then closing the idle screw I have got it to idle 2 full tanks as per the manual, that's almost 3 in all. Although there was a bit of high revving in the first tank but I believe this is not the end of the world as was for very short periods and don't think at full throttle by any, means. (Manual says idle for 3 tanks without moving) Can I ask is it normal if the idle screw is too high for the engine to take off and rev very high engaging the clutch? I am at the stage of getting ready to tune and give it a run in figure of 8's. Final question, not loving the stock transmitter with the hyper 7, feels cheap and not well built, I dont think I'll upgrade for a wee while until used to running but if I decide to upgrade I assume I need a new transmitter and receiver? Some inexpensive options on amazon seem to get very good reviews, are they worth the upgrade?

Noticed last night that the serial number of the transmitter and buggy is 0666. Have I been assigned an evil buggy by mistake and that's why I am having issues 😀

Thanks Nitroholic Think factory settings were wrong, thats what caused me all my issues....seem to be getting it to idle a bit better now Ill try again tomorrow, cant noise my neighbours up any more today, he is a loud wee git!

The manual for the engine tells me to idle the engine for 3 full tanks without moving for the initial break in. I have checked the factory settings and will retry just now. Are you saying this is happening because I am not moving the car, and should be driving ir around with increasing power to break it in? I watched guides online that said to do this, however when it began accelerating like a loony I was a little reluctant to begin driving. Thanks for your help, I am a complete beginner.

Hello everyone I purchased my first nitro car a new Haboa Hyper 7 TQ2 .21 turbo 3 port car which arrived today I had a few issues priming it and flooded the engine, after I emptied the excess fuel out I have got it to start, it idles fine for around 30 seconds however then it starts to accelerate much faster on its own, the servos don't move but I have to pinch the pipe to stop the engine. Am I missing something. trims and everything seem ok, when I take the air filter off the inlet is closed, I have not touched any of the needles I did get a little fuel out of the pull cord as well when I flooded it Is there something wrong with this engine? HELP