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Hey all - I’m throwing myself into the unknown to try to keep my sons entertained through lockdown by ragging RCs around on a disused Station car park. The 6YO has a Wild Willy 2 which only ever seems to break steering when he hits something. But since buying the 9YO a used Maverick Strada XB brushless I’m seeing a whole new world of issues. Gears shredded, cracked chassis, and now an ESC or motor issue (just posted about that in a plea for help). Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hey everyone Joined up as I've been given a Nitro RC car that's been sat for years in someones loft. Always wanted to get into RC so this has been my push to get started. Complete newbie but with good mechanical understanding as my day job is fixing 1/1 scale cars 😂

Yeah, the price of this and the 2011 Avante have me thinking that either Tamiya have lost their mind, or they're simply just cashing in on Covid big time, and the fact that there's a lot of people with surplus cash and nowhere to go/little to do with all their extra spare time. It's for this reason that I'm concentrating more on vintage resto's now.

Changed the arm on the front of the servo and the Velcro seems to give it pretty solid support -new engine sounds great - hopefully I’ll have time to put it back together later on. I actually used the original bar on the servo - I used a Dremel to slightly widen the hole and heated up the bar with a heat gun. The bar was so small that the heat gun didn’t work so I lit a candle and heated it that way. I then forced it into the slightly tight hole on the arm. I then cut the excess plastic off the arm. I used the Dremel to create a bigger hole on a small piece and slid it onto the original bar as reinforcement. The final touch was to use a heat gun to melt the extra plastic onto the arm for reinforcement. It was tough as all the plastic started to melt but I managed to keep it together and am delighted with the end result. It steers really well now - haven’t put the wheels on yet but hopefully today I’ll put it all back together and give it it’s first run.

THIS HAS BEEN SOLD Traxxas E-Revo 2.0 VXL I am new to RC cars and purchased this off a friend last year. This car is far too powerful for me so I ended up purchasing a JLB Speed instead. This car has had loads of upgrades and is ready to race complete with batteries and radio. Sky RC LiPo Dual Balance Charger. (Cost £80) 4 x Turnigy 6000 MAH Batteries. (Cost £45.00 each) Upgraded Servo (Power HD 23kg, waterproof, metal gears) (Cost £50.00) EZRun 4274 Brushless Motor (Cost £80.00) Upgraded metal rods and rod ends. Upgraded shocks and springs. Traxxas Alumunium chassis brace. Wheelie bar. 6 LED light kit installed. (I fitted this myself. No soldering iron so I used hot glue. You may need to redo this.) Suspension travel limiting straps. Dust/debris net included to protect internals. Loads and loads of spare parts and tools. Also original parts included. (check the last photo) Comes with 4 batteries so you can always have a spare set available. This machine is fast. I mean seriously fast. £520. £320. I would prefer cash/bank transfer on collection as I don't think I can get a box big enough to send it by courier. EDIT.. Price drop to £320 as I need a quick sale now.

And get on your bike. Lovely weekend of weather

Hah got me road bike on 20th June (so started cycling then) I've already done Beeston castle, cat and fiddle (up to Buxton) a fee 60 milers and 2 80 milers. As I say the motor on my bike good, me bike.... Well it'll do till next season hah

Just over the water fae you an yer lad stormbringer, in kirkcaldy. Have you been over the bings Broxburn way? Played around on crossers there, a lot of years ago mind, wondering if we can still get access?

Mostly broke them, a motor down in my tt02, ma big pal then burst the lower wishbone and shock end on the mojave, losing the shock pin at the same time. Then he went on to convert his tt02 to 2wd by turning the driveshaft into a stylus! Good afternoon tho!

well its been many years since ive built anything lego but my god there are lots of parts to this kit lol. spent a few hours over the last couple of days and still not half way through the book yet lol And you just have to try the wheels as soon as poss lol

more expensive than a hyper vse lol

Thanks Here's the car in question

Cheers guys I rebuilt the back of the car last weekend (full strip down fresh grease etc). Maybe time to get some better motors though do have 2 spare stock 540s. Think was still working and had been working hard

Are the rear wheels free turning or are they stiff? They could be old grease in the diff or it's a really tight mesh putting stress on the motor. Could be dust inside getting burnt off. Could be knackered. But a silver can 540 are pennies to replace Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

It crosses my mind every now and then. My LiPo packs are stored in ammo boxes, both are full. Keep them in my bedroom away from anything flammable. Not used them properly in over a year, but check on them every few months. I check voltages, all packs are stored before putting away, so if any cells are out, I'll isolate that pack to the LiPo bin in the garden (flower pot full of bad packs) I also check for any swelling. Slight swelling is fine, but I'll put a layer of gorilla tape around it. if it swells more it shows on the tape, so it makes it easy to see if there is any change. If the swelling gets worse, it goes into the flower pot. Been doing this for near 6 years, no issues. Has your metal container got a hole in the top? I drilled a hole in the top of my ammo boxes, so if something does happen, it can vent. The other side of it is this. Your mobile phone has a lithium pack in it, as does a lot of tech... You don't store those in a fire proof bag, in a metal container, on a fire proof shelf at night. Do what feels right, If you feel like you want to isolate more packs to other tins, do it. LiPo packs only let go when something happens to them.

I have 2 traxxas models a slayer which is pants tbh as its so unstable and a t maxx which tbh isint much better as trying to get the idle low enough so it changes between forward and reverse it just wants to cut out randomly, turn the idle up just a little bit more and it no longer cuts out but cannot select forward and reverse, i never take any of them out so cannot recommend, hpi was always my brand of choice (still got a few and had many more) to go for but parts arent so easy to find these days which is a little frustrating, but no matter what you go for 1/8 is the way forward

Okay, so, I had enough of the Nitro. been in nitro for a few years and finaly had enough. so, brushless it was. doing this conversion with the battery and charger was cheaper than buying the model without any batterys or charger. and is fun. so worth doing. I havent got any pictures of the procces, but i do have what i am left with. First, strip out all the nitro. clean and get ready to mount new stuff up. remeove the center diff (now would be a good time to shim if required), remove all the old brake stuff, then add the trophy truggy flux mount #101674, this will need washers underneth to level it out. I have loads of screws ect so i had no issue with finding any mechined screws, you cant use the stock so you may have to go to your hobbyshop or your nearyest B and Q, and use loketite) But you will ahve to cut your vero place down so you have the cleance for the mount. just use a hacksaw and a file will be good enough. Then it was a case of mounting the batery tray ( i use dthe hpi one, but you can uise what you like.) there isnt much room between the spur and battery box, but it will clear. very close though. I just strilled 3 new holes, and used bolts, wahsers and a nut. no poroblem. it isnt going to move. again, use some loketite. (if you dont want any screws poking from the bottom you can contersink some bolt heads and have the nut facing the battery, but it will be differecult to cut the bolts down like i had to do so it doesnt puncture the battery.) i used one exciting nitro mount hole. Mount the motor, add the pinion (Locktite) and mount your esc at the back, i used servo take. it doenst moove a mm. i mounted my reciver up top. velcro and a zip tie, again, solid and wont move. And yu now have a trophy truggy flux which cost less than the model new! Im using a 2000kv Xerun hobbywing motor and the Quicrun 150amp ESC. i also hav ethe hex conversion done. just so the truck can handle the power. I will post pictures shortly.