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Higher KV just means more revs per volt so higher rotational speed. The problem comes when the gearing is such that the loading on the motor never allows it to reach full speed (such as it would by holding the car in the air for example). This in turn makes the motor run much hotter. A lower KV means the motor has enough torque to reach it's full free running speed at which point the losses come right down and everything runs tickety boo. Cogging is the intermittent (i.e. not smooth) operation of the motor at very low duty cycles which makes them fairly unpleasant at low speeds.

Lol your 4 years too slow

Came across this which saved me some time making my own and may help others.

A few more bits arrived today... Mugen seiki shock oil 800w Tekno Orange rated springs Tekno shock boots So stripped and rebuilt.. Not as a dramatic change as I thought visually, but at least nice and clean. With the stiffer springs and fresh oil, they feel super smooth, can't wait to see how they perform. Shocks already had the M2C caps, again really impressed with the quality.. @Bixdid you buy the caps? Waiting on centre driveshaft, some M2C braces, and shims for rear diff now. But getting there 😎

These combos are ok on 2S. They dont last long on 3S. For a vantage with stock wheels the 4300kv motor on 2S will be ok.If you want to fit bigger wheels etc, id reccomend going for under 4000kv, to prevent cogging and overheating. I use the 3800kv combo from goolrc in my outlaw, had it for over a year now, and had no problems .

That's the one. Sorry I didn't reply sooner I've been on call all night and most of today. If you do use that one try to apply it just before bed so it gets time to go really hard before you eat. Mate at work tried it but only waited a few hours and it crumbled quite quickly.

Although still waiting on parts, I had enough to start the rebuild. Nothing better than starting with a fresh new chassis... Big thanks to @Badkad for selling me one at a good price. As the bumpers were a little worst for ware, I decided to take the opportunity to switch to the Tbone front, rear and mud guards. As always, delighted with the quality and fitment on the tbones, can't belive no one stocks these in the UK. It looks like the front suffered a little previously, the front skid was no existed and front screw heads were nearly shaved away. Also front hinge pin holder was in a rough way, so swapped out for a new one plus new 12.9 screws. Front bulkhead, arms and cvd's assessmbled to chassis. Apart from striping shocks not much else I can do until parts show up next week.

Only just seen this, thanks for letting me know, but I had already ordered the parts which came yesterday, thanks anyway 👍

Check current filings.... they do as of yesterday.

No need for a roof-tent http://www.foleysv.com/defender-6x6-conversion.html

I've still got it. Would be good to see other shells on it. Got a Summit shell on my MTE at the mo

So I got fed up waiting to see if a replacement rear wing would come back into stock on Hobbyking, and didn't like how quickly the FTX one fell apart.... So I took a punt and bought one on ebay for £5 (although you can get them for half that if willing to wait for a month to ship from China) Wasn't sure if it would fit or if I would need to modify it and cut away a section for the shock towers. In the end I just made little aluminium blocks to raise it up a bit. Pleased withthe look, need to test it, I mean break it!

Small update on the SCA-1E….. Stock servo replaced with a 15kg MG, Hobbywing 1080 ESC fitted and set up, SDI Grip doctors arrived and on, shocks tweaked and twiddled. The SDI Grip Doctors I’m quite impressed with, sticky compound, OK on the loose but fantastic on the rock/trail/boulders The front bumper hinders approaching obstacles and climbs so I thought I’d take off the lower section Few trail pics… The smaller tyres/wheels obviously reduce the clearance and decided that size are better suited to my Classic build, going to make this a more ‘capable’ runner.

Good luck and keep the pics coming!