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Your body tub is a td5 with air con county spec 12 seater, it will have black plastic a pillar trims all other pillars and window surrounds would be grey they only used black on the door trims of the hard top or comecial variants, the headlining is full from front to back with a join above and slightly rearwards of the b pillar, colour is an off white/ ivory ,dash board is black shiney plastic except the centre radio/ switch panel wich on some models was silver grey. I've got the hard top version td5 110 so if you need any detail pics let me know. Also had 300 tdi 110 and 200tdi 90.

Folk do love a good build thread

I was thinking of converting to electric but I have changed my mind gonna stick with 2 stroke can't beat the sound brrraaaap I'm thinking 30cc should do the trick Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finished the mattzilla and rebuilt some wheels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been looking at various Axial parts lists over the last few weeks to help with the Barbar build, I came across a part listed for the SMT10, it looks like you can now convert a AR60 (Wraith Axle) to a centre axle on a 6x6, does this mean there is a Axial 6x6 rig coming soon, because it has no use in 4x4 rigs that I know of...... Axial list this part as a output cover http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax31317 What do you think guys???

Interesting

if you can get the go pro camera, then all you would need is the VT unit as a seperate . and a gopro adaptor leash to hook upto the VT itself. a VT to go pro leash would bridge the cameras outgoing feed to the VT and that inturn would send it to your ground base receiver and LCD monitor. the extended battery for the go pro would be ideal with two of those thats the full race covered and all you would need is a power source for the VT unit. in the days before those micro CCTV cameras we used gopros hooked to a VT but it was extra weight to carry, then came the cctv cameras that were a quarter of the weight of a go pro so we started using them. weight is not much of an issue cart wise like it would be on a drone. if no ability to borrow a gopro maybe look at a retailer loaning you one and in return you loan some advertising space on the carts bodywork , if other teams see your setup and inquire your already bringing that loaner company some custom through the door and its good advertising for a company to . using a go pro cuts out the overheating of camera problem and the VT can be put anywhere in a good air flow plus the camera can be put into its waterproof case so waterproofing goes out the window. low light running we know some go pros do very well in low lighting so thats also then covered fairly well and does not need a higher spec very low lux cctv camera solution is valid and there would be very minimal problem areas that could not be covered with a few adjustments ( qualifiying laps could be the base mark for the signal strength and feed also the mounts ability to handle a full 24hr race, if it lasts a couple few belting laps its gonna last a slower long term enduance lapping ), and a 12,000mah battery would run the VT for a very long time needing only a low amount of capacity. if its drawing like 300mah 3 hours running is only 900mah ( just shy of 1 amp, and that battery is 12amps of capacity) so thats way past the 24hr needed for running. only important thing is drivers not wrecking out and finishing the 24hrs with a gangnam style dance at the end lol

I like that good idea your best bet

If you get a nice flat block of wood, turn your engine over and whack it firmly and square onto the wood. Hopefully the shock and gravity will make the broken bit fall out.

This what your looking for? https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/bodyshells/paint/tamiya-polycarbonate-paint/ta86055-tamiya-ps-55-flat-clear-p

heat wise on the camera system may not come to much, you have to think your averaging a fairly constant speed round the track so the camera say mounted on the front panel where the steering is would see a lot of airflow near enough 24/7 , in a drone its a more compact space up in the front nose of craft with a lotta stuff behind it, where as the cart is a more open machine with a lotta airflow around it. trains shouldnt be to much interference , but large microwave towers used in mobile phone broadcasting could be and also digital tv transmitters , they could swamp out a signal but i doubt theres many of them around the track itself. think line of sight when setting up the base station, if you can see the cart round the track the receiver will see the signal but if theres a large brick wall in the way of some huge grandstand you may find some slight dropping out adding the receiver to a pole would help a little to but dont go to high, otherwise you will find problems powering the device and finding cables long enough to bring the feed in. and in the event of a storm a possible source to ground for lightning strikes. the main worry would be the camera end, they are not waterproof / showerproof so you would really need nature on your side for a nice weather window ( we tend not to fly in adverse conditions like snow/rain as loosing a 500 quid machine is like loosing you child), making it waterproof would be encasing it or sealing up holes in the device with silicon and that is 100% going to create hotspots. the VT ( video transmitter ) usually come with a heatsink over the components to disipate heat , before they started the all in one units we would run the transmitter at the rear of the craft away from any electrical stuff like our main radio gear reciever/transmitter. then a wiring loom to the camera , it kept the transmitter in some sort of airflow to help with overheating ( higher the MW of the unit the more heat it will produce in the old days but digital/electronic tech tends to get better in the span of months/ yearly than every few years so they may have changed to more effiecent regulators and likes ) regulators take the incoming 12v and feed it to components that require less voltage but a payoff from this is the regulators disperse that unwanted voltage as heat hence the heatsinks . so a placement of camera all in one unit in a good airflow is your best bet, BUT there is one downside the incoming audio will be hissing and whisles as well as the carts sound from the air forced into the mic and over it. so here i would not plug in the audio lead just have the visual only. one problem you may hit is the antenna on the camera itself , in the video the one on the truck is an open cloverleaf, this could fail your cart at pre safety check in. but you can get domed cloverleafs that are encased in a little plastic like dome ( think of a radar puck and you have what they are ) being a covered antenna its going to be less a safety issue ( camera mount try get this a quick release so if it does melt down and cause a fire hazzard the driver can get it off quick and still not loose much time in the pit lane ) go with a modded go pro mount or something

Used to have these when I were a lad, found one in Japan for my sons birthday, (any excuse..) Its all all built up now, goes like a little rocket! One very happy lad, more to follow!

I had a few of these as a lad, awesome little things

love this!!

Yeah man I'm going to strip it all first then look at what's needed & save some coin money is tight so will be a long one but will be worth it I will probably do a build thread for those that are interested Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool man that should be a good bikes for sure. Quick couple of pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers, even losi dont have much other than replacement parts. I love the car but i love options too. New wheels n tyres just cost me £90 lol thats dearer than 2 for a real car lol.

I got mine in the same sale. £52 i think it was. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

After owning many variations of both, I would suggest you run both, if you can afford to, which would literally grant you the best of both worlds. My opinion is, what you run reflects massively on your personality, (for the most RC owners I know anyhow). If your not 'mechanically minded'/get easily frustrated and or have little attention span, then hands down go for electric, simply because the tuning/replacement of key components ( motor, ESC, power source (battery)) is a simple process, and for the most part is achieved by swapping 'stock' for aftermarket components. The fitting of most key components for electric are simple, largely part to good design, and can be done by someone with relatively no experience, a simple browse through YouTube will show you countless tutorials Wheras nitro can be a whole lot more complex, specifically when diagnosing/repairing key components, I've seen many people get frustrated working on and tuning nitro/petrol RC, simply due to the amount of moving components / specific setup tolerances they contain. So I guess what I'm trying to say is, if your seeking relatively maintenance free fun in the local park etc on an occasional weekend, opt for the electric. Just my 2c

Bash the parks alittle more danger in le1-5 won't matter lol.

It depends if you like to 'tinker' a little or a lot. Electric has power out of the box, but for those really looking for a hobby, and have time, it can become boring very quickly. If you're mechanically minded, have time on your hands and are fascinated with the ideas of optimising tuning, set-up, etc., then it's a strong argument for nitro. Al.

My bad, really sorry i'd totally forgotten. Its very dark in the man cave but i've set a reminder to dig them out tomorrow. Cap smooths the voltage to the esc, protecting it someway, but also means that when you quickly apply full throttle there's a 'buffer' to help the supply so the batt can keep up. Not all esc's have them. If you follow the wires one should go onto red batt input to the esc, the other the black. My electronics knowledge is limited but i'm certain you don't want them connecting to each other.

Did a little work on the baja, changed the back tyres to some hostile mxs Made up some side panels for the mattzilla and sorted the interior mount out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10s. A moot point now, 7/8s in a Badger is bob on On with the engine choice.....