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That looks fantastic, mind you all your builds of late do, nice outfit you have now with that. Is it a big crate full of Tamiya kits??

Is the boulder for sale?

Hello, as I have now finished reading this I want to pass it on to another GOLD active member. As I got it for free i'm only charging postage, I'm not sure how much it will be but id say

Can you all see that? Only took an hour!

K just means 1,000 so 10K is 10,000. that could be CST, wt, or whatever. Don't worry about the conversion, the best advice is just stick to the same brand of oil. So if you want to go thicker you select a higher number etc. Nige.

Bad choice of words!

Poor boulder, just sat there minding it's own business and wamm.

Here's the specs for the motors and the motor size from the Orlandoo manual. https://www.pololu.com/category/60/micro-metal-gearmotors Just search "geared micro motor" or eBay on Amazon and you find plenty. Servo (got mine from eBay) Same as the Orlandoo servo except there's is black. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17540__HK_5320_Ultra_Micro_Digital_Servo_1_7g_0_05sec_0_075kg.html They don't give screw sizes, just part numbers but I will be trying to sort out the sizes for spares. I have some Losi hex head micro screws that may fit. Will post later on when I know more. Although this build will be stock gathering ideas for modding my other kit that arrived today intended for a stock looking Landy conversion. John

You took don't go home till it breaks to another level. Did the boulder come out of nowhere lol

Get some cable ties on it with some shoe goo it will be right as rain

If it is im sure i could sent to it chewbacca to "stain" up.

That'll be reet, bit of gaffa and some offcuts of wood, good to go

You could reverse mount the clutch, I've done it with mine and it's lowered the engagement RPM a bit which would help you out. Not to mention the clutch now engages faster and harder.... no more clutch slip for me

I'll have the spring if it's not to your liking If it's spinning then put 19/55 on it, that will also give you 60mph at a rough engine rpm of 19,000

stained or not?

ill offer you a rc mag?

I'm in the mood for a good laugh as I am sat on my own in the office on the graveyard shift. So fire them pics up! . . Oh on a side note - sorry you have stuffed your KM !

She's back, nothing to really report, just been giving her a once over ready for a run at the weekend Need to lose the yellow body clips tho, oh I've gone back to the standard link set up on the rear and the BMRC trailing arms will be up for sale soon

lexus drives live the wheels arn't connected to the road. no feedback and rubbish handling compared to a BMW. More toys in lexus and electrics, probably why they had no money left for handling. Air conditioned ventilated seats blowing lovely cool air up your bum, very pretty media and electric everything in a lexus. At the end of the day whilst driving i dont tend to use many of the electrical gizmos, and find the driving sensation of vital importance rather than moving the seat. BMWs have a rare feeling and drive exceptionally well. I have had 325 coup 1996 320i coupe M sport 2003 325i sallon 2006 lexus IS 2.2 D Full spec Lexus 2.5 petrol BMW 320 D mport 2009 BMW 328I m sport 2012 BMW M sport 520 D tourer If you do over 10 K miles a diesel should be cheaper to run, but nothing is the same as a petrol engine if that what floats your boat. There are risks with any used car as it depends on how it has been treated. I've clocked 10 to 140 K on several of the motors and never had any exploding turbos. The 520 D is about 8.3 seconds from 0-60 as it is a big motor, with 177 bhp. the 530 is about 6.8 although the new 330 d xdrive GT is 5.4. Stats on the diesels say 54 mpg but reality with motorway cruising at 70 mph (+/10) is 43-45 mpg so 20% less than stated, assume the petrols would be similar. Do your homework, check for history, AA inspection, even ring the local garage as if it has a BMW service history all works will be logged on the PC so you can see if there has been any problems with it as they simply use the key fob to get the mileage and any info. But a Lexus if you just want to get from A to B without actually feeling the road or Mercs are a very comfy, luxurious car. Not trying to upset anyone, just my experience and personal opinion, as i never believed the rubbish adverts of "the ultimate driving machine", which it aint compared to a ferrari 348, but for the normal chap in the street its the best thing i found handling and driving wise.

The price of a pipe does not of course mean it is better performance wise...one engine may sing with X pipe whilst another engine may run like a dog with it.. The price can often be due to how it is made or the finish or the Efra certification...or just because.. Pipes may have the same design and often similar insides but the dimensions will be slightly different...this is what determines how a pipe works. Here is a Wiki link that will give you the basic gist...if you want something more in depth then ask... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_chamber

Was bored.. https://youtu.be/275Z-5501KM

I've had a lot of Bajas and a lot of engines, I see no problem with spreading my first hand findings on differences? Also, don't get too caught up in hp figures, it doesn't mean much. I didn't slag your engine off, I'm a KM fan... I just personally didn't see any real difference, so why spend

anything used is a gamble and it's only the purchaser who can weigh it up and decide whether it's worth the risk.

I can as well......Unless you have personally dyno'd an OBR engine at less then what's claimed then I really don't give a **** what your friends great aunties counsins mother knows.

Well if you read the posts - I made an engine suggestion and said what gearing I was running on it, then was pointed out that it was wrong, so I said what I was actually running.

You got any pictures of the internals of the engine you've seen? Always been curious as to what work was done.

The CY 4 bolt F270 (27.2cc Stroker) was a brilliant engine for the money and revved really well, I put the Clone Dom on there to give it low down power and it kept up with most things on (i think it was) 16/58 gearing. EDIT - 18/56!

Leave the diesel well alone !! They love blowing there turbos and it's not a cheap fix ! The petrols are bullet proof but if buying secondhand you want a good service history or just walk away low mileage is a plus but a well cared for one should be good for 200,000 plus easy There's plenty out there so you can be really picky !! Good hunting

Opened the doors and extended a section of the track outside. Had some good racing and a couple of flights in the Valley too

any recommendations for cleaning the old grease out? Also are we talking changing the inner and outer diff bearings or every bearing in the gearbox?

Eye, the bearing as well. I forgot them. No point doing all that work and not changing the bearings even if they are ok, they will have wear/play in there.

Also I don't know if it was a coincidence or not, but when I used the Hemistorm Maxhex, I noticed less brake wear... Not sure if it's because they aren't moving around anymore or if the bigger hex unload more of the heat or what, it might be something and nothing, but I'd say grab one of those for what they cost, that might help. And I know what you mean, I went from the 30.5KM to my G320. At first it didn't blow my socks off, then I switched from Castrol to Putoline MX5 and it's an animal now to be honest. I get quite a few folk asking me who tuned it when they see it actually in the flesh, it looks so much slower on the videos to what it is

Looking great, the different colour leds make it stand out a bit more in a good way. This rc has climbed back up my wish just now as there is an awesome new spot I've found which would be perfect for it.

To be honest, if you get stock brakes set up right, then nothing else will be better in terms of stopping power, they'll only last longer. Unless you go for some disks of course. But once you lock the rear wheels up, it doesn't matter which you're using, it's still only going to stop in the same distance lol. Mine stops pretty quickly to be honest, I can't imagine the

Well I was running 19/55 gearing last run out and up to about 3/4 throttle I could make it donut on pure torque if I wanted to lol. It's just about learning to drive it fella, plus you've jumped in at the deep end with a bit of an unknown engine really, in terms of peoples opinions on it over here in Bajas (for bashing at least) but throttle control is your best friend. Also remember the parachuting effect of a shell might be just taking a touch of weight off the rear and not helping either. I wouldn't even bother with 18/56, go straight to 19/55. I'm moving up to 20/54 and hoping that's perfect for my needs. A side pipe will definitely help you though... Imagine what it'd be like with a V2 Dom Theirs loads of factors that come into play, IMO, stick with 10k diff oil, the thicker you go, the easier it'll spin because the wheels will rotate at the same speed better. If that makes sense.

Love your car matey, i have a similar problem on my baja just spins its wheels and the brakes are crap takes an age to stop.

There's no front shocks on the F103GT

The stock front end is clearly a weak point so I'll definitely be upgrading in the future but only when the plastic parts fail, it would be stupid not to get my monies worth out of them first really

This is of the baja flux, almost the same but this has the alloy shock brace and tower combo, otherwise its the exact same set up.

Well made a start although think the build is going to take longer than expected. With all the parts being so tiny everything takes several times longer than a 1/10 would. Some of the parts are so small it makes it tricky to see what you're doing. The parts are very well organized though into lots of small bags with part numbers on the bags. Only take the parts out that you need for each step as the screws in particular are so small you'd be hard pressed to tell some of them apart. Step one is assembling the diffs. Fairly simple although you must be sure to seat the small bearing for the gear shaft properly into the housing or the two halves of the diff housing won't fit together. The housing is held together with two screws which have to be screwed in just right to hold. It's almost as if they have to be at just the right angle. I had to re-insert them a few times until they held properly. Once the hubs are in place though the screws don't matter. Then it's assemble the hubs and knuckles. The microscopic screws that hold the hubs on are a bit of a challenge to get started. I found the screws would just sit on the end of the screwdriver so that you could guide the screw into the hole. Be prepared for it to take a few goes to accomplish this though. The ball links are incredibly tiny but easy enough to screw into place if you just run the included drill trough the hole first to clear out any flash first. Dog-bones etc.go together in the normal way. One difficult part though is fitting the knuckles. There are molded pins top and bottom that snap into the hubs and a bit tricky to get them to go in. You have to insert the pin on one side first, make sure the dog-bone is aligned with the cup and then while levering up part of the hub with a fingernail force the other pin into place. This could take you a while to get the hang of it. It is fully ball-raced BTW. John

He's northern, he'll not listen I tell thee! HE'LL NOT LISTEN!

Soldered 5.5mm bullets on to 4 lipo packs. The cone on the positive is deliberate, I cut the heatshrink over-length on purpose, but then don't apply heat to the very end. This leaves the heatshrink long enough to reduce the risk of the positive and negative bullets touching during transit or when loading or unloading the lipos from the car.

Just my two penneth but looking at your rigs, no off the shelf kit would suffice (twammers,ascender,etc.) so how about a multi axled rig? 6x6 or 8x8 would compliment your collection quite nicely

want! although i'd be bricking it throwing it off a bridge lol

I'd be lying if i said this didn't give me ideas

Yeah,not going the widening route now anyway as since lowering it a bit and taking some of the preload off the shocks the handling has been so much better and like you said I dont think the Tekno driveshafts would work with them anyway. I might get the Tekno 17mm hubs though as I dont like the 12mm hexes with the current wheels/tyres,they just seem too small,and then get the Proline 17mm hubs.

Cheers guys, this was such a fun day and the wind added to the challenge next race video release soon with some special angle shots