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sorry about this John, but i use a place called francis kirks they have every nut bolts screw stainless, hex, philips, screw you want i go in now and then and ask for assorted 4, 5 mm 4-6-8mm hex stainless screws , washers and nylon nuts and he throws a bad together and its a few quid. there in denton one of he guys used to be into RC so he klnows exactly what u r after brilliant place, Aladdin cave

Ever since i finnished the xxcr, i always thought it needed white wheels, as the original yellow ones were died red (by me) and looked poop. When the xxxcr2 arrived, it came with some white wheels, so this was the resulting happy accident. Then i received my 'wheel whore' spec losi 3 spokes after they got sent to the wrong end of the country by mistake. I like them lots. The xx is back on the disc wheels now, and the 3 spokes are waiting for the xxx to be finnished. Speaking of which, heres a bit of it that looks nice not quite finnished yet, but its looking rather tasty as far as chassis go. Theres one more car on my list of things to get, time will tell if i find the right one.

They are square edge have been for a while

This is obviously just my personal opinion but I would steer well clear of metal sheds and plastic doesn't sound much better. If it were me I'd take the space you have a get a nice solid wooden frame made up from 3x2 or something similar and get some weather boarding well fixed and sealed onto and make a nice solid roof that's not gonna bow and slop in the middle. Metal sheds could be alright in the short term but they're really easy to get into and make alot of noise in the wind... but it's up to you at the end of the day Yeah it's gonna cost a fair bit more but at least you'll have peace of mind knowing it's gonna be alot more secure and will last a hell of alot longer.

I foresaw that, I've enjoyed it so much that I'm afraid I went one step further, before even finishing this one... Bruiser's sibling only just arrived yesterday. I figured, seeing as its a limited edition (and I'm a sucker for limiteds) and I could only find RCmart still stocking them (everywhere else is sold out and at the time they only had 6 remaining), that I'd bag one now to build in the very distant future...seeing as the Bruiser will keep me going for a few months at my current rate of progress!!

Father Stone looks pleased as punch with his new ride!

Few more pics..

I don't recall a time you gave me bad or not accurate advice about anything electric Still unsure if this is right for me yet of course. Since having the private field to use and getting the Baja out and getting it running like a train on this new oil, I've seemed to re-kindle a bit of the old magic.

Phillips heads require the correct size screwdriver.....and firm pressure to keep it located. Usually, when people round them off it's because they used a screwdriver that was 'close'...but not close enough. Hex heads are simpler to use, and provide more surface area for the tool to bear on. I have yet to hear of anyone swapping hex heads out for Phillips in ANY application, let alone RC. Conversion the other way is common. You will also find the EXACT same size engine bolts in Hong Nor, HPI and on my old XTM. All are M4 hex heads on my cars. The reason people break a perfectly good car is because the price of new spares are always higher than the cost of the car they make up. Buy a new car, and you can sell the parts off cheaper than new retail spares and still make a profit. Only works if there are lots of potential customers so you can shift the bulk of it in reasonable time....so don;t bother unless it's a very popular model. That's why Hyper 7s make commercial sense to split a new kit. Simples. Additionally...there is no evidence I can see of Hobao using 'inferior materials'. I've hammered mine hard enough and it hasn't broken. Last Kyosho Inferno I cam across ended up with a bent rear shock tower after a very mild tumble. The Hyper 7 has a reputation for durability and I have seen that proven many times at bashes, and I am not alone there. Don't get me wrong....I own Kyosho products...but in my experience, they need more looking after than a Hyper. The handling is better...but if you are just hammering round the local park, is than important? You are clearly concerned about all of us buying 'inferior' products and desperately defending them ..... but, if I was a cruel person, I would suggest you are doing the same with your Kyosho.....

Had a hankering for a MT for a while now and loved the look of this truck the second it was released, but didn't like the crazy UK price tag, i sourced a kit from Germany for a reasonable

just for you. .FG 1st start in years (2).pdf

This combo would also be perfect and at

yes i believe so, there are a couple of different sizes, a know when i went from a HPI to a Hitec i needed one. So many littlethings which are a pain in the bum if you dont have the bits, thank heavens for the forums and experience

got this at xmas:

its the disc i got with the km has everything on it pdf style

I have loads to do but all I have done is sniff new tyres

Can't comment on the invictus, I know nothing about it really, the IP's came from MB Models, they are distrubed by Schumacher, so most shops should be able to get hold of them easily And before anyone comes along and says SMC lipos are better, they should do their research and relise that most SMC lipos are rebadged/recased IP's

My turnin circle isn't good unless I spin it round but I got 20k oil in my diff

Absolutely. I'd like to know what gear I've missed, as I thought I went for top spec for the essential parts and my yeti is far from "too powerful to run"...!

Put the hostiles on the km, itll wheelie its arse off,

get the 'geek' app. its got some of the cheapest stuff you can get.....search action camera

Quick look inside the box Sweet to see some awesome Powerstokes looking right back at me

Not sure if the photo has appeared but here's my tq sport can I be adde to the list

The savox servos are crap, they may be savox but just like nearly all servos in rtr's they are rubbish. Dont be fooled.

For charging, don't use a bag, just stay with the LiPos when charging, it's much much better to be able to catch a blowing LiPo early, if you can't see it in the bag, then it'll be much further along in setting on fire by the time you realise, I just use an oven tray for charging on then it's easy to get it all outside if one does happen to go. If you're wanting something for just storing them in, then get an ammo tin.

Tell you what ste. Them hotiles stop the car on the button

Dusty Motors shroud will protect the guts of the car. A worthy investment!

I have another just don't fancy bumping that down there either. Misses will kill me if I go bumping her 13 plate Adam down it [emoji23] Dillon you must be bored go fill the hole in. If in doubt.... Flat out

If the four crown gear screws were loose, the sun gear could've lifted away from the spider gears.

It would be a crime not to If I didn't have a waterproof ESC I probably wouldn't.

Glad you got it sorted

That last pic shows how poorly the shell has been trimmed and fitted, look at the cracks around the mounting hex!!

Nobody tells me what I can and can't spend my money on. That's just plain wrong.

I was on about controlled jumping not just ramping it like a lunatic.

It's the Honda City Turbo, which is this ugly in real life. I reckon this will sell fast, like preorder now fast. I'm putting in for 3 of them; play/display/preserve Can't really have a go at Tamiya for re-releasing old ranges. That's market forces for you. They have taken the unprecedented step of listening to the customer base* and re-released several classics over the last couple of years. I personally hope they continue to do it. *this statement does not apply to the recently released Grand Hauler IMO

No idea its a Xmas gift, I havent even opened it, shall we build it? Pictures and all ? Lol!

ive said it before say it again ill hit any lump even if i see a old lady fall ill send the baja over her

And now the finished R34.

ignore him ste you go flatout i do

Crude attempt, but we're back up and running.

Hyper 7 .21.....just type hyper 7 into ebay and see what comes up.........

I will ask my son, he's hogging it! It's pretty awesome for the monies, been smashed about, stepped on and still going.

id vote for the hong nor i think there a much better quality car ive had a few hong now x1 crt truggys a couple of x2 crt truggys and my last hong nor was lx2e buggy ,, ive not had any hyper bar the ss truggy ive just sold ,, but i do bash with a few other hyper 7s and they dont look as good as a hong nor and i dont think quality is on par with the hong nor either, but the hypers do have better parts support new and used and are as tough as the hong nors

Take the rear diff out and remove the screws holding the ring gear on. Be careful not to strip the heads on the screws. Make sure you get a snug fitting screw driver and apply a little heat to the diff case(if they are alloy, should be)in line with the screw you are removing. It will soften the threadlock on the screw and make it easier to remove. Once you have all the screws out, check the internal gears and drive pins for damage. While the diff is out check the pinion gear that is inside the bulkhead for damage. Post pics and let us know how you get on.

My newly built madbull basher