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The "Ugly Truckling" by Rolex on RCNT,

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When buying used, there are a few things I always like to check... 1) Is the chassis straight. The front should have a bend in it, but the rest should be flat front to back. Hold the edge of a rule along the chassis to check it's not kinked. 2) Check the diffs. Hold it off the ground and turn one front wheel....the opposite wheel should turn the other way. If the centre diff turns, stop it turning and repeat. Should also be smooth and quiet. Do the same with the back. 3) Check the motor has compression. Turn it over gently with the pullstart....then remove the glowplug and repeat. It should be very different. 4) Get the owner to start the car ( and make sure the motor is cold.....not prewarmed ) 5) NEVER buy a dirty car. If he can't be bothered to clean it before sale, he probably never maintained it at all. Check out owner as much as the car when buying. Does hte owner know the car, know about parts, know what he's doing generally with regard to maintenance. If he spends time telling you about suspension oils, after run oil and changing silicon diff oils for handling improvements etc....be happy. If, on the other hand, all he can tell you is how high he can make it jump and how it does '70 easy'....walk away

Sean-vrs and morphet If you chuck out that spring on the brake servo and replace it with fuel tube the same size ish that will make the brakes a lot firmer and helps with the terrible brake fade too on these heavy ole lumps... I put some fuel tube on the front too cos for some reason the brakes on mine have always stuck on (the brake arm doesnt move back) when I use em..even tried putting springs between the pads to push the brake off, but the fuel tube mod works the best.. I'll try and get a pic up to show you what I mean..its a pity I cant just upload pics from my phone it'd be a lot less stressful for the technophobes amongst us that have a meltdown everytime we use a pc lol!

Quick pic of mine. Given it a wipe over as ive been invited to a landrover owner magazine photshoot tomorrow. Ill try and get some pics tomorrow as from what i hear theres going to be 4 or 5 of us. A track racer V8 powered A road rocket 5.7 V8 Mine as a Pay and Play site car And a TD5 as a Green lane machine. Should be a good day out as Jerry Thurston form Salvage Squad (Fot those that remember the tv programe) is running it

The SC401 is made by Tenshock and are awesome motors, they are more powerful than the Hobbywing 4pole but are very amp hungry, so need decent spec Lipos to get the best from them Castle ESC's have one of the worse reputations in the whole hobby

what d'you think folks?

I am selling some items to get funds in for another project. Up first is my himoto 4123 drift roller or artr. This car is 1/10 scale. Locked rear diff. 12mm hexs. Oil filled shocks. Aluminium prop shaft. Aluminium radio tray. Roller. As a artr you will also get a servo, brushed motor, brushed esc fitted with dean's connectors and wheels. Looking for

Yeah there fairly cheap now a decent pipe, airfilter, good servo and alloy gear plate and thats about all mine had for hop ups oh and a 26cc CY engine that give it more torque over the crappy 30.5cc stock engine if im right i only paid about

SPITFIRE! Old Warden Military Pageant 2014 by Harry Measures, on Flickr And a hurricane: Old Warden Military Pageant 2014 by Harry Measures, on Flickr

Mine ain't much better lols

Going to crack you some links up you will be pleased

Mech brakes are better, nice one still tempted on the roller but it needs a good bash 1st

Your back I bought both set ups Couldn't help it, hah welcome back

Hi, I live near Cardiff - Don't hold it against me though, I was born and raised in West Wales

I would have thought so too...but I measured....twice...

I've got throttle linkages to a Hong nor X1 which I believe will fit?

Hi guys, selling my Losi 5T, used but in excellent condition, std cy 26cc engine, with 990 bearing modded carb, Bartolone XP big bore pipe, vertigo vented clutch bell, Hostile clutch carrier, Bartolone mesh plate, DT1 filter, Dark Soul twin steering servo set up, with 2 Hitec HS5765MH digital servos, also same servo on throttle/brake duties, Fullforce aluminum front skid plate, Team Chase steering set up and rear chassis skid plate, Killer rc 7200mah lipo receiver pack and superbee kill switch, some spares including bearings, Springs, Suspension arms, pull starts and anything else i can find for this. Now to the important part, i am asking SOLD for this, however, due to the size and weight of this, i will not post/courier it, collection only, i will not break it down for parts, so please don't ask, any questions, please feel free to pm me, thanks for looking. Good point, I am in Brighton, East Sussex.

Tyre set 3 sold (2x sets of spirals) - thanks

Meme **** take pics at the ready

*gets popcorn and waits for Castle fanboys* :lol:

He is in Brighton , East Sussex , and it's a great truck in great condition

We'll I went back into the laboratory this afternoon, with the intention of getting some sort of engine protector fleshed up. Lowe and behold. Went into the spare plastics box and found 2 old type savage shock towers. Cut the tops of with little to zero precision ( ain't gotta be pretty right? ) Threw those parts away. Found 2 turnbuckle ties. Drilled out the ends of the shock tower tops for the ties to screw into. Then just used 2 body post to join them up, and voila ! Only thing left to do is reinforce the rear. I can do it from the cut off shock tower top. The ties have gone in about 2/3 the wat so should be plenty left for a nice juicy self tapper. To the rear tvp bolt with a bit of nylon coat hanger I think. Time for a beer :: edit :: The headlights are still on the back and I forgot to put the exhaust hanger back in :-p

Bronze are 2 x 3mm and 2 x 6mm Orange are 4 x 9mm

is it these what you need mate? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYPER-7-7-5-Centre-Diff-Mount-Brake-Assembly-NEW-/251551358394?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3a91a11dba http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYPER-7-7-5-THROTTLE-BRAKE-STEERING-LINKS-NEW-/251555205029?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3a91dbcfa5

Its not any more limited than a touring car, except for it being a little bigger. Other than that you can run it in the street or a car park just fine. What you can't do without a vast amount of space is unleash its full potential, but its perfectly usable at lower power. Which means you could run it on say 4S as an onroad car and save the big cells for the occasional speed run. In this respect its actually much more useful than the specialised speed run cars many people on here have.

that is a very nice hyper mate! i have just got that engine for my 8 eu and man it was really tight! had to heat it up 200f for it to start otherwise it kept getting stuck at tdc. when it did start, it was really fast and i havent even tuned it yet! bet after you finished building it, you didnt want to take it out to get it dirty did you? lol

Cheers guys. Nope, enduro is not hard to pullstart. The trick (as always) is to loosen the glow plug a bit before starting. So far it's been an absolute joy to own (enduro) very well behaved.

great build. Is that Enduro engine hard to pull start?

Sweet buggy dude that carbon wing looked really nice!

Couple of tried & tested finished pics --------------- Things I've killed bashing: Carbon effect rear spoiler. Soon as it flexes the carbon cracked off ,( shame because it looked awesome. Aerial tube pfffft The last 2 original nanda block hex's. She's now running much better AR rims with nanda tyres. Pretty much BOMB PROOF

M3.

tbh bud i think maintanence is the key to running on the sand i.e full strip after each use to remove sand from the key areas i.e diffs,, clutch etc etc ,, i wouldnt bother spraying it with owt as sand will most likely stick to it,, just take the precautions you can like pullstart and airfilter outerwears,, maybe see if you can knock up a full cover out of some material and velcro like the electric cars have available it should help keep a lot of sand out the car but the diff will still be open to the elements so will need a strip and claen after each beach run heres a quick pick of my blackout just to show how different you can make them look please pardon any spelling mistakes im a bit merry lol

Frankenstein car Boat Lovely set of bracelets!

^What car!

My wraith

looked at it on the shelf as its raining....

Mmmm.. how odd!

im interested too ? im between edinbrough and glasgow

What you got for sale like. I'm close to Glasgow

exhaust is on looking good where is everyone at this week

Sorry to hear about your problems goldiegg. I recently came across some instructions on an American forum which I think were from an HPI representative, for diagnosing ignition problems and I've attached a copy here, hopefully this may help. Regarding the tank, if you are only going to leave it a short time, then there is no need to empty the tank. But I keep all my models in doors, and for this reason I always empty the tanks on my petrol models (I have an Octane, Maverick XB and Baja 5Bss). You can get a little hand cranked fuel pump from most models shops that will do the job nicely. Just make sure you get the version that is suitable for petrol. Harvey Savage Octane Ignition Testing.txt

Also consider you did hit someone hurt them and get arrested you would be contributing to the ban of radio controlled stuff in public places inc parks. 5th scales are already being noticed and signs popping up in some areas from council saying no rcs mainly because people tear up the cricket feild , bowls or whatever and the council gets a whole club of people raging so have to do it. Altho its the bmx track where most people get injured ive seen loads of little kids take a 1/8 nitro to the face trying to ride ther bikes on a bike track with rcs around. We need to take the care because rc just isn't important to council one bit. Even a dog has the right of way lol.

Made 360 GoPro mount and had some fun with that.....

That's what I was thinking, we don't know how many cars they used to make the video though.

If you're using a crap servo then that won't help but try reading this, it will help explain that even our little models can be tuned in multiple ways to change the handling characteristics: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BasicSuspensionTuning/

No really posted in a while, But this is my 1:1 - Abarth 595 Competizione Currently running at 160Bhp, will be going in for a re-map and exhaust change in August to 190Bhp.

That's Herts! Couple of cracking tracks there

Cheers gents Yea, the blocks are brilliant! Ultra grippy and smart looking to boot. No sign of soft/stripped hex's some users reported, thankfully.