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I don't have ocd. I've got cdo. It's the same thing, just in alphabetical order like everything should be.

I thought it would be a good idea to start a topic on keeping your touring car budget healthy and mention some things that I have experienced in my time of racing. 1) Always do your research before buying anything. I have a limited budget for r/c, (as do many) so it's bad when you do buy something that turns out to be not what you need, or it's no good. Luckily, sponsorships have actually helped save me money in the long run, as you are testing their product most sponsors will offer a warranty on it should it go wrong and need replacing. I'm not saying sponsorship is for everyone though and it takes a lot of thought, time and consideration to first of all write a resume and then by the sponsor for you to be accepted as a team driver at any level. For a lot of my r/c purchases, I do a LOT of research before buying items, through forums and others who have purchased the same item. I, like many r/c racers out there, like to know of a products good and bad points before buying it and come to a decision based on the above points. For a lot of consumable items though, (tyres, additive etc etc) your local club members are the best place to find out what works there and what doesn't..... And that's why I would always suggest that a newcomer to r/c goes to the club they want to race at BEFORE buying anything, as i've seen too many with inferior equipment, or equipment that doesn't meet club rules. 2) General costs. I don't go mad on tyres (for example) as I don't race every week and know I will rarely make the A final, but it really depends on your position within r/c. If you are looking for every advantage possible and you want to do well, you will obviously need a bigger budget to make that happen on keeping the car competitive and more time racing - wherever you race If you are an average Joe Bloggs who is only into r/c for a bit of fun (and hanging out with your friends etc), then you wont be putting as much time and money into r/c - and if you are doing that and getting nowhere with the hobby, then you really need to spend more time in correcting the issue/s (and in the process, possibly more money too!). So my point is, only buy what you actually need, and not "what you might think will be a good idea", because ideas don't always give you what you want or need lol 3) Race with a car that you know is in good order. How many of us have gone racing in the hope that the little part you semi-broke and bodged (fixed? lol) it up the time you raced before holds out "for just one more meeting?" and you have no acces replacement parts on the race day? If your car does break, you've just wasted any money on entry fees and transport getting there for nothing but a headache. Plan wisely (as best as you can) and it can help you a lot in return I have in the past, superglued wishbones and hubs together, held together with zip ties as a temporary measure and go with the philosophy of if it does break, i've lost very little but gained a lot if I finish the race But i've also had retirements from the same situation and you just learn after 18 years of racing to take the rough with the smooth lol 4) Knowing the right people! Yep, knowledge is key. But knowing the right people to get the things you need from r/c helps too. And that's why it pays to be as open as you can be in r/c, the more people you know, the better knowledge and access you have to the r/c life. Setups, location of equipment, discounts etc etc are all out there to be had.... if you look hard enough!

Do you have a hot sister/mum? get them to take it to the apple store... speak to the manager if they are male.. you'll get a new one without much of an issue... If not, they will probably offer you either a 3rd or a quarter off a new one...

Much love for the defender mate

CUBE is bought

Signed for it! Fitted RX and aerial tube. Soldered up a battery. update the MMM firmware.

Hi all this is going to be my 1st quad build .. Been doing some research and wot not for a while,along with some flying on the MQX so thought i'd up it a gear and get a bigger quicker one .. Looked around and the RTF stuff is pretty expensive so i thought can't be that hard to build my own so here goes.. Well i looked and looked and after some careful thought i decided it was easiest to do a one shop build .. Everything other than a angle board (which has yet to arrive) has come from Hobbyking .. So folks can follow this and maybe build there own i'm going to include as many pics as i can any tip or tricks i find along the way i shall share as well .. Only things i'm not going to include at this time is advice or how to's on flashing the esc or flight board .. I will be doing it to my esc and flight board but i'm no computer wiz so i'll leave that for other's Well enough of me chiming on here's the parts for the build This board has a build in power board to solder to so makes life simple and keeps all the wires tidy ..Only down side that i found so far is there was no motor screws in the frame kit and the KK2 board dont mont striaght for a X config .. But no worriers ordered a 45 degree angle mount so that takes care of that .. As soon as it comes i'll get some pics up Got 4 of these and a programmer card Picked up 6 all in so 2 spares should i break one The KK2 all important Flight board Got a cheap rx for the DX6i Props i went with cheap ones for now as i'm sure i'm going to break them got 3 bags of each so made sure i had plenty I also got some wire to make up some servo leads along with some LED strips to help with orientation some 3.5mm bullets and some nylon screws and standoffs to mount the kk2 board. Dare say i have missed something but for now i can't think what Oh lipo's see i knew there was something went for a Nano Tech 3s A spec 2200mah only got 1 for now as i might get some bigger ones.. But that will get me set up for now

yeah that would be a bit weird, and what would i say, "can you take my phone to the apple store" "why?" "cos your fit" thats not an option, i will take it to the apple store and hope the manager is female, or drives on the other side of the road http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/18009491.jpg

If he admits to that wouldn't that be admitting his mum his a milf on a public forum joe

It's defiantly powder coated thats why it's in an oven on the pics

Its Candy Red, its powdercoated buddy not painted

the fs gt3c hasnt got the big chrome knob but a small scroll wheel just incase ya get confused

Source: RCNews.de

Bump

My buggy starting to look canny good new wheels and tyre should be here tomorrow

I just took delivery of a brushless one today, tekno 4 kit with MMM esc and Castle 1515 motor! Its epic!

Just completly stripped the losi 8 2.0 (at work) gonna fit the brushless comversion later ready to race at swindon sunday! zoooooooom

HPI still sell these by the bucketload, its not really in their interests to pump a lot of money into a new platform when the old one is still flying out of the shops.

Going for a race session at brookland rc club in a few weeks so started to make a few changes to the baja bring on the black stuff

Keep telling yourself that whilst saving for the new car later this year. That's what I'm doing Psssst don't listen to Qatmix it's expensive I have my eye on the new Serpent, have to say it's ticking almost all the boxes for me at the moment so once the XRAY is finished it may well be time to move the Photon on and grab the Serpent =D I also love our little thread here, it oozes quality much like a TRF xD

Echoing previous posts here, this is not even evolution, it's nothing!!!!!! If I were in this industry and looking to respond to competitor threats to my market, I would be working a lot harder that HPI are! My guess is that Losi is probably canning them in sales of large scale cars right now and in response, they paint the body of their existing models! Really a very poor effort and shows what a cushy ride they have had for far too long! Come on HPI, pull your finger out!!!!!!

Tight...lets start with the oily bits and go from there: 1) Diffs. Early savages may have only 2 planetary gears in there on a single shaft. You do not want this....you want the cross shaft with a total of 6 internal gears. You also want the ally case. Do not buy cheap ones...buy the genuine HPI ally diffs. Cost you around

No thanks mate, PS4 being announced this month

I LOVE MY BLACKOUT Power Sound Smell Size As said they do need a bit of $$ out of the box but what rc doesnt? Drive cups i have never had a problem with in the 3 years i had my truck everything else that has broken has been to my use and abuse policy Yes you want to get a tuned pipe and yes you will need better servos and radio everything else is upgrade as you like. GET A KILLSWITCH BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!!!! If it decides to go AWOL it will do some damage to somebody if it hits heres mine....

Yep. Less probably- set for 0.5-1.0amps; if you discharge too quickly the voltage will 'rebound' ( go back up ) a fair bit as soon as the discharge stops. A slower discharge will result in a final voltage that stays pretty steady ( ~0.9v per cell ). You can't adjust the charge voltage- the charger determines that automatically with nimhs/nicads- you can only set the charge current, and the peak sensitivity ( mV setting- worth tweaking a little higher if the charge ends prematurely ). Discharge setting can be adjusted however- set to the equivalent of 0.9 or 1.0v per cell ( multiply by the number of cells in your pack obviously ). Getting the best out of nimhs/nicads is a dark art- plenty of guides around but you could be reading for a month & still not really understand the best settings as it can vary depending on the cell manufacturer etc ( mV setting for example ).

stop it bobby I'm already well jealous I've currently got George and the wife on eBay to finance a nitro version

Think its Just all the little gaps in the driveshaft/cups mounting up together to feel like a huge slop Sent from my HTC One S Special Edition using Tapatalk 2

its nicked lol what do mean i live in a respectable area i dont live in chester lol

ha ha ha there the reg of the next car i borrow long term if you know what i mean lol

I might pick the wr8 flux up myself soon, I've just bought the losi xxl thingy with 1717 castle motor. So I might part with a savvy and buy a wr8.

Started my strip down today as it needs abit of work/maintenance... One question I have as I can't remember when I got this new, does the drivetrain have a bit of slop in it? Basically if I spin any wheel it seems to pick up the slop before it moves the spur or drivetrain? Had a look at the front diff and dog bones, all seem fine, had enough tonight so will start again tomorrow on the rear diff to see if there's any faults there. The cups have a little wear in them so this proberly ain't helping things. I've checked the slippers set correctly and it is, and the grub screw on the driveshaft going to the front diff is tight. Thinking about it now it more than likely is the cups giving the drivetrain too much play... Off to modelsport I go for another order then lol

i'll try and get there if i can. got a few errands to do on saturday tho.. really want to see this wr8 bobby so will do my best.

Youndont need a 3 port then a 5+2 a bullitt is both of them in one, got the power of 5 ports but is alot better on fuel

Find a UK supplier and it will be more like

Modelsport sell them http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-bearing-6x10x3-yokomo-/rc-car-products/12666

The 4PK is a fantastic radio but its an expensive buy. Then again the 4PL isnt cheap, But I rate the 4PL highly. Oh and there are plenty of FASST compatable RX`s on Hobbyking. http://www.hobbyking...Ghz_Futaba.html The 4PK, 4PKS and the new R use Futaba FASST. Whereas the 4PL uses Futaba S-FHSS and FHSS.

The eu is 225 ? The 3 is 400

Looks very nice , Different than others and that what counts

I've never owned one but you will find that any large scale model has it's lovers and haters. Any large scale I've researched has needed some hop ups from the box too -be they better servos or a tuned pipe. If you like it and can afford it then I would say go for it. I had nitro's before large scales and I wish i'd got into large scale a lot sooner!! Good luck with whatever you decide to do mate

Nice looking ride you got there Targett.

love my blackout, they do need a few upgrades early on same as any other 1/5th, servo`s been the first thing .

Love my blackout great truck, HOWEVER you'll need a few quid to spend on it to get it right. But to my knowledge there isn't a rtr out of the box that didn't need a few quid invested in it to iron out the niggles.. There is a lot about blackouts on here and a handful of loyal owners..

ESC wise a Xerun 150a is perfect

A short video with me playing with the buggy... It's not much cause my wife was talking on the phone while recording .... lady's

looks nice i like it!

bump

Not keen on the panels and headlights, but it is different and looks like you've done a nice job of it

Noj I'm goin to guess no it won't stand up to your bashing

The only one that used to be any good and pretty big was at Sanddown race course many many years ago now, It was sh** hot as well, Went every year for a good few years or more, Then it just stopped, Such a shame cos it was good.

hey guys thought i would post some pics of my workspace Its the spare room in the house all of the box stuff is New unused products inside just not got round to using yet The wine cork is from masami champagne bottle from his 2nd place at the 2004 worlds 1/10th in italy and the wheel was from hara's car at the same event