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With the cage installed - And few more pics of the lights on I have also managed to get both my receiver LED and Killswitch LED in view through the silicone covers, this wasnt planned but at least I can tell if I have a problem with the receiver and or killswitch without taking the lid off. And I really dont want to do that theres just to much crammed in there!

Well, as they say; Silence is golden, duct tape is silver

Started it up for the first time tonight. Cant wait to use it now sounds fantastic! Going to do the heat cycles tomorrow morning, so I dont annoy the neighbours this evening. Hopefully they wont mind me waking them up though!

if the servos are the same speed and have the same throw from centre then in theory you can use them both together...lets bear in mind that the 2 are connected together by the link bar so act as one...simple physics, if 2 forces are acting in the same direction then total force is the sum of the 2, regardless if one is weaker than the other...running a y splitter you'd have to be spot on with linkages, throw and speed however some handsets allow you to set up alot direct from the tx... i know with my nomadio react i can run the servos independantly from each other on steering ch and one on ch3 or 4 and alter my servo speeds, and/ or mix the 2 channels and run one at a ratio to another so they act in unison so in theory i can use 2 difference power and speed rated servos and balance them for speed and throw.... not that i'd want to try.

They normally have a CY style label but with HY on it The heads are marked the same as CT motors too, Yours should say the same as this so 36mm head 30mm crank

To be fair mate, RC cars and their parts do depreciate and almost all experienced enthusiasts on this forum will be able to tell you that this package aint worth more than

It's only my opinion, but

2x R40 (1 RTR, 1 in bits) 1x Super Rs4 EP 2x Rs4 3 SS (Stage D Drift & 220mm Ep with Lola shell) 3x Rs4 (in bits) 1 HB Cyclone (Speed Car)

I also wanted to get it rolling last night, and as near to complete as possible. I have to take most of the rear end off to take out engine and put it back in. But after seeing this lying in pieces for too long, I just needed to see it in its full roller. Its propped up on wheels cause theres no rear shocks attached

You want to get maximum overlap. I know I have had some fun lining up as different clutchbells seem to vary lightly. If your clutchbell teetch are not fully on the spur you will wear it out quicker...so just make sure you have maximum overlap front/back and that the clutchbell doesn't rub on the spur. Sort that and mesh as above and you will be running nicely

Hobbyking sell some nice cheap planes/gliders... But you need to know what your buying,clevises are crap , ESC is on the limit,motor can burn out... what ever plane your buying check the reviews and allso check on RCGroup.com for threads about it... .

you need to place the engine i place first and just ip up the adjusting screws to hold it in place. then get a sheet of standard a4 paper cut a thin strip off then slacken the screws off place the paper in between the clutch bell teeth annd the spur gear teeth and tighten the screws.then take out the paper and push the buggy forwards and backwards. it should run smoothly if not and the teeth grind slacken it off a touch, if it is set right you should be able to hold both clutch bell and spur gear and there should just be a couple of mm of play

get a piece of paper and fold it in half and push the clutch bell next to the center diff and nip up screws and pull paper out and push along to feel it feel free give you a idea

Savage 2350,Efirestorm - thats been Flux'd ,bullet ST Flux,Wheely King Iron Outlaw,Hpi Sprint2 Drifter I love my HPI

Just don;t tell people you are off to muck about on the beach with a couple of pirates......you will get some pretty odd looks!

First off, it helps to know why you are doing the job. There are two places I shim....once is the bearings on the outside of the diff. This controls left/ight positioning of hte diff so you get good mesh. You need to have the shims diff side of the bearing. The inner diamter of shim ( the size of the hole) needs to match that of hte inside hole of the bearing. The shim should be in contact with the inner race of the bearing but not the outer. If it is too large and pushes on the outer race of hte bearing it will cause friction and major problems. So...the diff bearing gives you the measurements you need for a shim. The second area is hte pinion. This controls the fore/aft mesh of the gears. If the pinion can move away from teh ring gear, you reduce the overlap and hence the mesh is off. Shimms between the head of hte pinion and the bearing will move it out and take up any slop. Again...the shim must fit over te hshaft of the pinion, but not be so big that they rub on the outer bearing race. Couldn't tell you the exact sizes as I don;t have a pirate diff to go on....but if you look up the bearing sizes for the diff and pinion, that should give you a starting point to work from. Bearing sizes quote inner diamter, outer diameter and thickness...the first two will tell you all you need to know

indeed....hope he never needs advice... anyway Ash...nice guide to shimming diffs here... http://ofnaracingnitrotalkback.yuku.com/forum/viewtopic/id/3978 i'd say there are a good few vids on youtube too. I'll measure the ones I have and see what they are...im pretty sure they will be the same size as the ones you need.

Well because I know "I'm off" usually means "I'm going to keep reading to see if people thought I was right", I'll give you a reply... I do have kids. A cartoon bear is still a cartoon bear. Take the bear away, and what you have is a nasty message. Take the nasty message away, and what you have is a bear. The two don't come hand in hand. Although I wasn't sexually abused myself, I know someone who was. Repeatedly. 20 years of it, from baby through teens. They've read this thread. They wonder why people are bitching and moaning about it so much. Your assumption is null and void. So you wouldn't allow people to discuss things on your forum. Then what the hell DO you do there? I always thought that was the point in forums. Good luck in your future endeavours.

i did have a hpi savage ss 4.6 but nitro isn`t my thing, now i have a hpi savage flux hp

update on mine trophy truggy and sprint 2 flux best cars i will ever own apart from the baja i had lol

Savage XL LRP ZR.30

Mist on the course!

Firestorm 10T. My first and only one I've owned and still going strong a couple of years on Wouldn't mind one of the new Bullets though. Waterproof and 4wd sounds good to me!

Make sure you use the right kind of paint. For lexan shells make sure the paint is for polycarbonate. If it's for a nitro vehicle then nitro block will stop the fuel from eating the paint. Preparation is key, the better the prep the better and longer lasting the result. Everyone will have their own methods but here's what I do: Preperation Cut out and fit the shell.Wash the shell out with warm water and a tiny amount of washing up liquid.Scuff the inside of the shell with a metal scourer. It will go cloudy but this won't show once the shell is painted. Make sure you work the scourer into all the nooks and crevices whilst avoiding the windows.Leave the shell to dry.Apply window masks and any other masks you want to use.Press down the edges of the masks with a credit card. Painting Warm the can of paint in a sink of hot tap water (do not use water from the kettle) for about 5 mins.Swirl the ball bearing in the can around the bottom to mix up the thick paint there.Shake the can upside down for 30 seconds.Shake the can right way up for 30 seconds.Swirl the ball bearing again.Shake the can upside down for 30 seconds.Shake the can right way up for 30 seconds.Test that the paint is coming out nicely (not spitting) by spraying away from the shell.Spray a light coat on the inside of the shell (don't worry if it's patchy). Keep the can moving at all times, if you stop on a spot the paint will run.Wait 30 seconds and shake the can while you wait.Spray another light coat and repeat the above 2 steps until a solid even finish is achieved.If you are going to do another colour then wait 1 hour and remove the appropriate masks, then wait another 2 hours before applying the next colour.If you are done and there is still paint left in the can turn it upside down and spray for 2-4 seconds until no paint is leaving the can.Wait 1 hour and remove the window masks. In general do dark colours first and light colours last. Backing bright colours with white will make them more solid and vibrant.

I recently purchased a Sidewinder SCT, but upon arrival I noticed the motor endbell was unthreaded rendering it unmountable. When I noticed this, I immediately phoned Castle in the US and was told that they would ship a new threaded endbell instantaneously. They also instructed me to retain my old endbell and tap it or dispose of it. Approx 2 weeks hence (today), my Fiancee answers the door to the postman. In the box is a brand new 1410-1y motor worth approx $100, a new endbell for my original motor, a $25 voucher off my next Castle purchase, an extended 3 months of warranty on top of my 12 month default, and a letter of apologetic nature. Now that's what I call customer service at its best.

Well as long as your not robbing little old ladies or selling crack, then good for you, Welcome to the world of rc's and an empty wallet, and if you think your skint now, just wait untill your married!

where does a fourteen year old toe rag get four grand from?

the firestorm will be around with the cockroaches after a nuclear holocaust lol

my gran just got her eyesight back becuse of that lol. I quite like it though

To get things moving, use WD40. To stop things moving, use duct tape.