ansmann1

kds transmitter

using kds 820 gyro and kds 9g servo. H ave changed the esc and this seems to have solved some of the problems the tail only twitches slightly now but the controls are still a bit sloppy

the tail is still twitching after altering the gyro gain and also one servo has been getting hot and has burnt out. this has been replaced.However have noticed that the helicopters performance of late has been very poor.There appears to be a lot of slop in the controls {throttle, elevator, etc) have replaced all linkages but again with no improvement. Does this sound like it could be the esc. If it is are they easy to replace and do i have to rebind or reprogramme the heli. I have a spare esc ready to go in but am dubious about replacing it. Any help would be much appreciated thanks

the tail is still twitching after altering the gyro gain and also one servo has been getting hot and has burnt out. this has been replaced.However have noticed that the helicopters performance of late has been very poor.There appears to be a lot of slop in the controls {throttle, elevator, etc) have replaced all linkages but again with no improvement. Does this sound like it could be the esc. If it is are they easy to replace and do i have to rebind or reprogramme the heli. I have a spare esc ready to go in but am dubious about replacing it. Any help would be much appreciated thanks

thanks for the replies will try gyro gain and tension of belt

i have a kds 450qs helicopter which i have had for approximately 6 months.The tail has now started to twitch from side to side and i dont know why. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong. Is it the head lock gyro or possibly the belt drive. Any help would be appreciated

know the feeling my hyper 7 and virus 2 have been fuelled up for the last 3 days lol

turn the flywheel on the engine by hand it should turn a little way then get stiff as it reaches tdc and then slack again

used monster nitro juice before good fuel easy to tune but find it hard to get now my lms stocks optifuel which is just as good although a little smokey

dont need a flywheel puller.just need a flat head screwdriver. very gently and gradually lever it off one side at a time by putting screwdriver between flywheel and engine body. I take it you have taken off the securing nut first

power hds in all my buggys never had a problems and thats after 1 year

that lrp engine has propably been discontinued because now there is a spec 3

you need to place the engine i place first and just ip up the adjusting screws to hold it in place. then get a sheet of standard a4 paper cut a thin strip off then slacken the screws off place the paper in between the clutch bell teeth annd the spur gear teeth and tighten the screws.then take out the paper and push the buggy forwards and backwards. it should run smoothly if not and the teeth grind slacken it off a touch, if it is set right you should be able to hold both clutch bell and spur gear and there should just be a couple of mm of play

funny you should mention but i hve judt recently bought an rb sport 10 its not quite as expensive as yours. ihave the same problem with mine. i have put it in my ansmann virus 2 as a direct replacement for my force engine. like you say bottom end it just doesnt take off like you imagine it should. however i have an lrpz21r engine in my hyper 7 which is like s*** off a stick in comparison

how old is the engine it may be worn. remove the engine hold by the fly wheel and if the engine has good compression when you hold the flywheel it should hold the weight of the engine if it drops the engine is worn. in relation to the throttle arm bending is there any adjustment on the servo. the epa (end point adjustment needs to be set)