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Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/11/11 in all areas

  1. Just tell her that "a little knowladge is a dangerous thing" and direct her to the kitchen to get the tee on!
    3 points
  2. still not exactly a Firestorm tho Martin, does this mean this is a savage???
    2 points
  3. If fact there is a mint unused clone Dom in the for sale section right now http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/124456-baja-dominator-pipe/page__fromsearch__1
    1 point
  4. Already looked into that Keeping them white for now.... Tempted for chrome next, they look super nice.
    1 point
  5. What flavour do the jelly batteries come in?
    1 point
  6. OK people, an update... Rang the seller who was very understanding. After seeing the photo's on here they agreed that it appears mine slipped through the net at manufacture. They are going to get CML to send me a full new set of gears and grease directly. Top service in my book Full marks MSUK!
    1 point
  7. I had this problem when breaking in my Hyper 7 Black.... I found that the easiest solution is to heat the engine with a hair dryer for 5 minutes then it should turn over ok, the piston is just stuck at TDC. This happens because the engine is still very tight. When you turn an engine off (with which ever method suits you) always turn the flywheel so that the piston is at the bottom of the engine, you can remove the glow plug so that you can see it's the bottom. Always do this before the engine cools down and it will prolong engine life. Once you have the piston at the bottom of the engine mark the centre of the flywheel underneath the car with tip-ex, that way you will know when the piston is at the bottom of the engine without having to remove the glow plug.
    1 point
  8. That diff needs a new set of internal gears for sure. Oil wise, I just use Fastrax diff oil. Seems to do the job! Weights go with carmst74 .... that's a good starting point. You may find you want to tweak it later as you can tune the handling with changes to diff oil thickness....but those would give you a good base to work from. I think that diff did have a smattering of grease...but all it has done is give the metal filings something to stick to....and it's not actually on the gears at all.
    1 point
  9. All the problems your having seem very normal to all of us. Welcome to the hobby!
    1 point
  10. Hi.Hobbyking are good.I've got 3 pairs of turnigies & a pair of turnigy nanotechs. They've not given me any grief & I really beat my MMM'd summit,the battery door fell open a couple of nights back,I accidently dragged the nanotech a few hundred yards(It was VERY dark) Just electrical taped it up,charged(keeping a good eye on it) ,It's fine
    1 point
  11. Not anymore, its my stampy muhahahaha lol
    1 point
  12. Might have some bits for that lying around....I know I have a rear diff. Drop me a pm with exactly what you need and I may well be able to sort you out.
    1 point
  13. hi mate, i had a ken block fiesta. great fun!! stick on some rally wheels and tyres and there not too shabby on short grass too. then if you fancy a mini slash, change the wheels and stick on a slash body (and mounts) then you have 2 cars in 1.
    1 point
  14. Spares wise, they are pretty tough and parts are easy to get if you break anything. Doubly easy now RPM have started to make their upgrade parts in colours to match the Monster Jam trucks. If it hasn't got one...get a wheelie bar. Takes very little effort to wheelie a Stampede, and with a wheelie bar, you can keep it vertical without flipping over all the time. Brushless is easy on these....mine has a 9T EZRun setup which is plenty for the truck and it copes well. Just needs gearing up a fraction and it's great fun! Batteries....you could buy an 8.4NiMh battery ( which is what Traxxas sell it with) or you could go LiPo. Check the manual to make sure the XL5 ESC is alright with LiPo ( I think it is). Something like a 5000Mah 7.4V ( 2S) LiPo would give you longer runtimes and better performance. A LiPo charger like an IMax B6 can be had from China for around
    1 point
  15. its a blast ..and i won it on msuk so neer HA !
    1 point
  16. What's happening over there guys, it's like everyone is turning a bit "Paris Hilton" on me First there are folks complaining how some new tyres look and that they're not original, now folks are complaining how a motor looks. Who cares. If it's the current fastest at a reasonable price it could be pink with yellow spots for all i care. Function over form FTW!!!!!11111111111111
    1 point
  17. if that was any smaller it would be a thumbnail. what camera do you use?
    1 point
  18. Hyper diffs are known for leaking
    1 point
  19. Hey Bud, I've had the Recat Rampage pro for 2 years now and it takes a hell of a beating The Maverick Blackout is a clone / rebaged of the redcat which is made by Himoto, the pro version i have is all ally and has every upgrade already fitted from factory, there have being some issues with the quality of material used for the maverick but once these problems have being ironed out they really are a great truck. All 1/5 cars break mate so dont let some of the reviwes put you off, i've had an FG and that always had niggly problems and kept loosing screws etc or the engine coming out of mesh. This is what i've done to mine thus far : Steering servo's - dual (hitec 5755's) Throttle servo Hitec ultra torque, that just burnt out so now powerHD servo) Air Filter (running HPI system, i cut 3 out of the 6 inner supports away to allow more air flow) Ada cermanic manifold (stops warping) Phatdad angled shred stack (allows better air flow and take air filter away from servo linkages) Drilled holes in gear cover Diff cups need steel retaining ring welding around them (otherwise they have a habit of spillting apart) Wrap each diff cup in heavy duty heat shrink (stops the pins from vibrating out) Take boths diffs apart and oil properly and grease case Centre the dog dones (im using fuel tubing) green lock tight pins into hubs (these work themselves loose, blue and red locktight do not work) Joint tape and shoe goo the inside of shell (they dont seem the strongest on the market) Get a decent pipe (I'm running the rear exit CPI pipe) Mesh mod the pull start and crankcase (stops alot of debris / small stones getting in and causing mayhem) Cut the top of the plastic engine housing away to allow better cooling Homemade mud guard cuz im lazy and cant be arsed to clean it Changed the fuel lines too to clear so i can see whats going on with the fuel Also put a better kluncker in the tank to help the engine breath when i've flipped it upside down HPI 8000 rpm clutch spring 3rd channel kill switch FG 1000 wt shock oil front FG 2000 wt shock oil rear 7000 wt diff oil front 10,000 wt diff oil rear Erm think thats about it Next to revo with big joe tyres on lol
    1 point
  20. I love repairing mine! I love getting it out during Xfactor to try and delay the inevitable 'brain rot'...
    1 point
  21. I thort as much, but sally has been around real race cars as her dad used to race in amature league before he passed away so shes ova thinking it. No matter what people say tho ill not have a hpi baja as thay are ova priced ide rather buy a Awoi clone and put the hpi wheels and body on it lol
    1 point
  22. If you are already sick of little breakages, or things to fix then you are in the wrong hobby. Irrespective of whether it is new or not, things can go wrong which are out of the manufacturers control. Welcome to the real side of the hobby.
    1 point
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