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Blimey he looks like a tranny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bits you need: Power drill 6mm drill bit (optional) 7mm drill bit 5mm Allen key m5 threaded inserts. I use these Threaded inserts Your hub, obviously Tools to take your hub apart. The first time I did this was with Marder hubs -there seems to be a bit more meat on them than the mutilator hub shown here - so you might need to grind a milli off the bottom of the insert to clear the metal inner ring. Anyway, it makes it easier if you drill 6mm first, so, strip your hub: And take out that metal ring. Drill 6, then 7 mm - the drill should follow the existing hole. Et voila Then, get insert and allen key and drive it in - it can be a bit tricky to get started. Finished (Not a great pic) You can see here theres a very slight maybe 0.5mm protusion out of the top, and it is squashing the inner metal ring a bit - Edit: Just checked out my marder hubs - if you do top and bottom at the same time it squashes that ring a little both sides and evens it up - so no probs. Any questions please ask away. Phil

Jees, who let the health & safety monitor out! all its going to do is smoke a bit at most and it would'nt even do that!

I guess that's them 'reviewed' .....

This seems to be a common problem with Turnigy LiPo's. To do this you will need: Decent soldering iron and solder Sharp knife When running, the car will suddenly loose power, it appears that the connection is broken somewhere. Check your LiPo's with a voltage checker, and a 3S LiPo may now only count two cells, and the voltage across the output cable of the LiPo is 0V. If this is the case, then most like this has happened. WARNING: Do this repair at your own risk. You WILL void any warrenties your LiPo's have (although not really a problem as you most likely got them from Hobby King and cba to send them back). Also if you short the LiPo while soldering, you could blow up the LiPo, so like I say, DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. So then, this has happened to my friend a number of times, and so far in just 4 months it's happened to me twice. My 3S LiPO is reading 0V across the terminals, and only showing as a 2S pack. First, you need to cut open the casing around the terminals. Do this carefully to avoid puncturing the cells (if you do puncture a cell, get rid of the LiPo QUICKLY!) I advise you to only cut one side of the casing open, so you can just fold the part that covers the contact over to one side, this is for ease of reassembling the pack later. After you have cut the casing open you will expose the connections and 90% of the time, this will be the problem. As you can see, the solder is quite thin from factory, and has to take alot of current. This has caused it to explode, breaking the connection. To fix this, simply solder over the gap using a generious amount of solder. Be VERY careful not to bridge any neiboughring contacts, otherwise you may short the LiPo. (i've done it, scared the crap out of me ) Now when soldering, make sure you keep the iron on long enough so all of the joint melts, so it's soldered all the way through. You don't want to just bridge over the top of it, otherwise you will have a bad connection and it will just break again. Please excuse my bad soldering Also, to reduce the risk of this happening again you can put strands of wire in the joint as TiM mentioned As you can see, the terminal is now reconnected. Success, the pack now reads at the correct voltage, and shows 12V across the terminals. Now just tape up the pack using some electrical tape over the contacts, then wrap it over in gaffa tape. If you didn't remove the original casing, just fold the flap back over and tape it up. Job done

oops

If you 'prime' the motor the same as a nitro car, you would either be pressurising the fuel tank by blowing down a pipe that connects to the exhaust...or blocking up the end of hte exhaust and turning over teh motor. If the carb slide is fully closed, the fuel may not flow. Open up the throttle a bit when you prime and the fuel ought to flow into the carb.

THATS 5 HOURS ON A TRAIN :L

Welcome to the forum fella, loads of us Savvy owners on here so any questions fire away

Yes there are some fanatics out there I agree. But I still think that, for the money, the Hyper 7 is a damn good car. Dont forget, not everyone has deep pockets and endless money to throw at mugens and Losi's. Its all well and good looking down on Hypers from an ivory tower when you have the luxury of being able to afford better, but if you are a young kid with a limited budget, or even an adult just coming into RC with a limited budget, then a Hyper is a very good choice of car. (as is the Trophy btw - but I think the quality of the hyper, and spares backup just puts it in front - what are HPI thinking with philips head screws?) But even experienced RC'ers have to tip their hat to Hypers because for the money, they perform very well. A good driver using a hyper will out perform a bad one driving a mugen. Theres a lesson there. When I first started bashing my mate andy had an old dog eared hyper 7 that he had owned for a few years. I went in and bought a race bred car - a Losi 8ight 2.0 - and he demolished me every time around the little bmx track we used to race on. Why? He's a better driver than me and knows how to handle a car. I was new to the scene and had all the gear but no idea. Same happened with my ST Pro vs his ST RTR......I was always last I could have been driving the latest and greatest spec mugen but it would be wasted on me because I dont have enough skill as a driver. Also the ability of the car is wasted when bashing. Its a bit like using an F1 car for the school run. Utterly pointless. A basher needs to be tough and reliable with good spares back up. The Hyper ticks all of those boxes. OK Hypers will always be out performed by race bred cars when being driven by drivers of equal skill, but at the same time most casual bashers do not need the performance of a race bred car. Lets also not forget that an RTR Hyper costs an awful lot less than a race bred car (unless you get a 2nd hand bargain which I would always recommend but even ex race bred cars can be utter sheds). Finally would any casual basher really need the benefits that a race bred mugen would bring, for example? Or is it a case of having the best for having the bests sake? You know the crowd.... "Oh? All you have is a Hyper? hahahah. I have a

have now got all the tomato's into the raised beds, i have around 30+ plants i would say, mostly small yellow/red cherry toms and a good splash of some spanish type for sun drying. should be fun when i harvest them have to hang the whole plant upside down in cool sunny area so as well as gardening i also enjoy cooking what i grow. i am no wheat farmer but i do love museli as a breakfast and as a snack, so here is my museli flapjack recipe 12 OZ museli ( fruit/ nut what ever you fancy here ) 6 OZ Brown sugar 4 OZ golden syrup 6 OZ marg heat the sugar , marg and syrup in a largish saucepan, do not allow mix to boil, mix very well until it becomes a thin'ish dark liquid. pre heat your Oven to Gas mark 4, and grease a nice deep metal tray. mix your museli into the liquid mixture and stir well until fully coated, then transfer into your tray use the back of a spoon dipped in boiling water to help mixture into each corner of tin and nice and flat. place into the oven on the middle shelf for around 30-40 mins. when a nice golden brown remove from oven and with a warm wet knife cut into bite size sticks and leave to cool. enjoy !!