HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[dazp1976]

So I've got Savox 1256 and 1258 and trying to decide which to put on the steering and which on the brake.

Will be using 6 volts. The 1256 is 20kg & 0.15 sec, the 1258 is 12kg & 0.08 sec

Which way round would you's go? 1256 is slower with more torque 1258 is faster with less torque (going in a nitro buggy).

[SlayerLayer]

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 3:50 PM, dazp1976 said:

I would have the 1256 as steering i have that on my steering.

1258 throttle / break

i would say the punch is better for steering so the 1256 has more power and then 1258 for the really quick throttle or break response.

[liam-28]

Has any one figured if any side  stone/ mud guards fit on the nitro version ?  i have fitted some rear mud guards but a load of crap still gets in from the front and sides I was looking at the flux versions but not sure if they would actually fit. 

 

any one managed to find any ? 

 

Thanks Liam

[everclear1984]

On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 5:22 PM, mydoddy69 said:

 

I've taken the Buggy out twice now and have stripped the screws in the bottom of the steering arms twice. Not impressed. Are the 7075 arms actually worth the £50 price tag?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=310869118603&alt=web

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, liam-28 said:

Has any one figured if any side  stone/ mud guards fit on the nitro version ?  i have fitted some rear mud guards but a load of crap still gets in from the front and sides I was looking at the flux versions but not sure if they would actually fit. 

 

any one managed to find any ? 

 

Thanks Liam

Not any that are a direct fit. A bit awkward as the the nitro chassis is shaped like an arrow but I fitted some flux ones.

What I did is used an angle grinder to take the edge off so it was straight. Drew a straight line in marker from the front outer corner to about 9mm in at the back corner (you don't want to take anything off the front corner)  then cut the edge off and drilled the edge holes. If you spend a bit of time measuring it up and getting the line right it is fairly straight forward, patience is handy  

I'll take a pic 2 morrow if you want to see.

[dazp1976]

32 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

I've taken the Buggy out twice now and have stripped the screws in the bottom of the steering arms twice. Not impressed. Are the 7075 arms actually worth the £50 price tag?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=310869118603&alt=web

I've stripped loads. Unsure if other ones are any better. I plastered it in red threadlock at one stage and the threads still went, the threadlock held it all together still but it wobbled like mad and i couldn't get it off  If you go with the 7075 ones I would try a slightly longer bolt only by a mm or so so it just sticks out without touching the cvd. I reckon the bolts come up a little short which don't help. Might be a little better.

My main one uses D8T and Hellfire parts now but the handling isn't as good due to steering ackerman / angles.

This mod/bodge I did is working well so far on my other one:

Just about managed to get a large drill bit in the steering arm to make a countersink on either side so I could bolt from the inside. Did this months ago and still going strong  

Trying to think up a little drill tool to do a better job of it but nowt yet.

Edited January 22, 2016 by dazp1976

[everclear1984]

On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 5:22 PM, mydoddy69 said:

 

I was all set to pick up the 7075 ones today but I like your bolt through fix, I think I'll give that a try first.

[dazp1976]

On 1/22/2016 at 6:57 AM, everclear1984 said:

I was all set to pick up the 7075 ones today but I like your bolt through fix, I think I'll give that a try first.

Best to use start with a 6mm bit and work your way up 1mm at a time. If you go straight in with a large one it jams on that metal and snaps at you. Have one side of it with stripped threads. Oh hang on just noticed you said buggy! May not work because the top bolt will be too long to put through the other side. Will only be any good with the Truggy bits. You can fit the Truggy sets on buggy all thats needed is the c-hub bit and maybe a different upper link.

Best bet for the buggy is to look at Vorza arms / carriers / upper link / cvd shafts. May cost a little tho. Shock hole matches the inner hole.

Edited January 24, 2016 by dazp1976

[everclear1984]

35 minutes ago, dazp1976 said:

Best to use start with a 6mm bit and work your way up 1mm at a time. If you go straight in with a jams on that metal and snaps at you. Have one side of it with stripped threads. Oh hang on just noticed you said buggy! May not work because the top bolt will be too long to put through the other side. Will only be any good with the Truggy bits. You can fit the Truggy sets on buggy all thats needed is the c-hub bit and maybe a different upper link.

Best bet for the buggy is to look at Vorza arms / carriers / upper link / cvd shafts. May cost a little tho. Shock hole matches the inner hole.

I have plenty of countersunk screws I could use and a dremel so I'm sure I could make it work. I looked at the vorza parts and it's actually not too pricy.

[mydoddy69]

9 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

I've taken the Buggy out twice now and have stripped the screws in the bottom of the steering arms twice. Not impressed. Are the 7075 arms actually worth the £50 price tag?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=310869118603&alt=web

Simple answer is no not really fella forget the hpi overpriced ones altogether there's cheaper to be had and work just as well 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331351440733

i run these never had a problem since  

[mydoddy69]

On 17 January 2016 at 5:43 PM, everclear1984 said:

What was the issue with the box tube? The rear truggy brace looks much sturdier that the buggy one!

It bends under a heavy hit and only really offers middle strength. With the links you get far more strength and the added bonus of being able to tweak it and it helps a little more on that nasty diff case twist from cartwheels etc . Well that's the idea anyway 

On 17 January 2016 at 6:53 PM, RestInPieces said:

Thats strange, many people have said they do.

Try them and see there too small unless the ones I have aren't in the right bag ? 

The hpi ones from the big bore range don't work too well either under comperrsion they bind up a touch 

If you do indeed find some I'd be very happy to find out so please let me know  

[dazp1976]

19 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:

Simple answer is no not really fella forget the hpi overpriced ones altogether there's cheaper to be had and work just as well 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331351440733

i run these never had a problem since  

Those were my next port of call if that bodge didn't work but I had so many of those arms lying around with a stripped thread on one end thought I'd make use of them and i'm still on the first ones I did after 3 months yay.

On that box tube stuff the ones from b&q only have a thin wall thickness so bound to bend, If some of you do want to use it then get some with 2mm wall thickness looks a bit clumsy of a fit at the front tho. Those link arms on doddy's are the way to go imo. 

[dazp1976]

4 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

I have plenty of countersunk screws I could use and a dremel so I'm sure I could make it work. I looked at the vorza parts and it's actually not too pricy.

If you go own the Vorza route you'd need the cvd's The Trophy shafts won't fit in the carrier/caster block part and 90mm are a little short anyway but there is a way without needing the Vorza cvd's  to make it cheaper by using a Hellfire caster block with the Vorza spindle and hellfire axles which will add 2-3mm to the overall shaft length:

1: Vorza front arm 67385 

2: Vorza turnbuckle 101025

3: Outer hinge pin I'd use Hobao 3x50 - 89013 or Hot bodies - 68184

4: Hellfire carrier 85505

5: Vorza spindle 67388

6: Hellfire Axle 86504

7: 14x8x4 spindle bearings

If you try to use a Hellfire spindle as well it will be wider and you won't find a front cvd long enough hence the combination of parts. This route should save a few ££ over buying cvd's because the hellfire carriers can be found v.cheap same with the hellfire axles.

Also alloy carriers can be found at a good price from Asiatees - Hellfire carrier and Apache spindle (same as Vorza)

Edited January 22, 2016 by dazp1976

[everclear1984]

I decided to bite the bullet and go with the 7075 arms as I found them for £40. If they last then I'll consider it money well spent, if they strip I might cry lol

[dazp1976]

31 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

I decided to bite the bullet and go with the 7075 arms as I found them for £40. If they last then I'll consider it money well spent, if they strip I might cry lol

They do look nice Hopefully it all works out. I'd still look at the bolt lengths tho and have it just slightly protruding through. I swear the standard bolts come up a little too short. 

Probably could have done the above Vorza/Hellfire mod for that.

[everclear1984]

That standard bolt is 10mm and does indeed come up short. I bought some 12mm bolts today and shaved a tiny bit off with the dremel and they're perfect. They protrude just enough to be seen without fouling against anything.

[RestInPieces]

These seem to be working really well now with 50wt oil

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RestInPieces]

Do you reckon this thing will fly?

[emoji23][emoji23]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[liam-28]

On 22 January 2016 at 0:36 AM, dazp1976 said:

Not any that are a direct fit. A bit awkward as the the nitro chassis is shaped like an arrow but I fitted some flux ones.

What I did is used an angle grinder to take the edge off so it was straight. Drew a straight line in marker from the front outer corner to about 9mm in at the back corner (you don't want to take anything off the front corner)  then cut the edge off and drilled the edge holes. If you spend a bit of time measuring it up and getting the line right it is fairly straight forward, patience is handy  

I'll take a pic 2 morrow if you want to see.

hi, 

 

Thank you for the information, Yes that would be great if you could take some pictures  I may have a go of dong that then.  Does it actually keep a lot of dirt and grass out ? 

 

Thanks Liam

[liam-28]

Just after a bit of help, I have not used my hpi trophy in months lol and came across a bit of an issue, when I last used it it worked fine but now when it start it up and apply the brake the engine cuts  even when the engine has run for a min and is warm,  after looking when the brake is applied it looks as if it is shutting the carb closed, so i have took the push rod assembly apart and cleaned it all  and its running smooth but it is still doing it any tips to help fix this ? 

 

 

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, liam-28 said:

Just after a bit of help, I have not used my hpi trophy in months lol and came across a bit of an issue, when I last used it it worked fine but now when it start it up and apply the brake the engine cuts  even when the engine has run for a min and is warm,  after looking when the brake is applied it looks as if it is shutting the carb closed, so i have took the push rod assembly apart and cleaned it all  and its running smooth but it is still doing it any tips to help fix this ? 

 

 

Try adjusting your idle screw on the carb so it doesn't close fully. Looking down it with the air filter removed the gap should be approx 1.0mm. Full instruction manual below, setting I'm referring to is at the top of page 4.

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/111598-f46_v2-glb-m-v1.pdf

p.s. Haven't had time to do that photo yet. Defo do 2 morrow.

Edited January 23, 2016 by dazp1976

[everclear1984]

I gave the Flux a hammering today and the new steering arms have made a world of difference

Here's a little footage from today

 

Edited January 24, 2016 by everclear1984

[liam-28]

Thanks to Dazp1976 got mine running correctly today so I took it out to the local field and it lasted 2 minutes before the my HPI Nimh pack gave up lol, i had charged it before hand but guessing with it been sat for months its not done it any good lol, so I have put it on a couple of charge cycles see if that fixes it  

 

But I am tempted to get an electric a lot less hassle I do fancy a go at drifting now lol. 

 

And how do you guys clean yours ? I am tempted to get the jet wash on but I have a savox steering servo and it isn't water proof :/ 

Edited January 24, 2016 by liam-28

[rctech132]

anyone after a trophy buggy? (hot bodies lightning) 

[mydoddy69]

1 hour ago, everclear1984 said:

I gave the Flux a hammering today and the new steering arms have made a world of difference

Here's a little footage from today

https://youtu.be/vLawp-OCyvA

cracking bash site this  

buggy held up well