HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[CalumR]

Just been speaking to my local model shop owner and he said that oils measured in wt only go upto 100 any thing over that should be measured in cps. And he runs his truggy (tarmac use) 20k front 30k middle and 10k rear cps.

[mydoddy69]

Oh so true fella hence why instead of me saying its this wt or cps i linked my brand and where i use that product .. The trouble is with most if not all the converters i have come across non are any good over a certain limit ... Even manufacturers dont agree on what is what .. so for the likes of us its never going to be clear cut .. even if you and rusty where to buy the same brand unless you both run the same motors and gearing setup along with the same clutch type and on the same track you will never come to find the answer.. there just too many factors into what is or what works the best for anyone to say

We can advise what product we use and where we use it that's it as no one bashes the same spot or has the very same set up we dont all visit the same track and nor to we all buy the same brand

There is only one real way to find what is best for you and that's going to be trial and error and what suits your pocket .. Some folks might only want to buy say 2 bottles of diff oil others will just use grease which i might add is the cheapest of all and for most bashers will work just fine to be honest.. i have known folks just use grease in all there diffs as they say it makes bugger all odds to them as they cant tell the difference..

My advice is this play around with whatever wt or cps you want find something that suits you then if you got a lot of oils left over you dont like sell them on

[Deafty]

Agreed,. but a starting point is what we are all searching for I think.

[mydoddy69]

Then there is a better way to go maybe??

I have noticed that whatever cps or wt we use most of us are using a pattern

Thick = front

Medium = middle

Thin = rear

Or

Medium = front

Thick = middle

Thin = rear

or

Thick = front

Thick = middle

Thick = rear

So perhaps to make it a lot less confusing for all who might want to know just indicate what style you use like this .. and then add your preferred wt or cps stating why you use that brand or why you like that set up folks could then make there own minds up on which brand or measurement they want to go with

[CalumR]

Agree, when stating oils please add weather it is ctp or wt and manufacture. Hopefully this will reduce the confusion. As for a start point I suggest thick, medium, thin (front -> back) as for what oils I dare not say.

[ShadowDEMON88]

ok I have been on the phone to HPI to try and get some info THIS IS NOT GOSPEL!! It just the view of the technical support guy I spoke to but should help!!

He said (this is not word for word just what I remember) there is no evidence that oil is better than grease but oil can be used to tune.

In regards to oil he suggested I started with 7k wt front 5k wt mid and 5k wt rear and then take it from there......

In regards to cps/cts this is a more accurate way of measurement and can loosely be compared to other brands where as weight (wt) can not be compared from one brand to the other. One brands 7k wt can be completely different from another brands 7k wt

I hope this clears up some of the confusion we are having with everyones set up. And as said before this is a view of one person and he was not GOD just a guy at the end of the phone.

So im gonna leave the 500000cps I've already got and take myself down to the LHS to get so 7k 5k 3k wt oil from the same supplier and see what happens.

Now can we talk about something else! Cause my heads battered!!

[Rusty1103]

Lets have a vote

change the subject

all say yes in favour to change no to keep us in the pickling jar lol

I run thick medium thin front to rear

[mydoddy69]

See much better and a lot less hassle now yes I agree with rusty let's move on cause like shadow I got brain ache

[Rusty1103]

What is needing done with your engine deafty?

[Deafty]

ahhm,wait,. what was that wiff the oils,.ah ok,.Thanbks shadowdeamon for making the call (in both regards)

Running (at the moment) :

thick

medium

thin

Ansmann albeit thicker average lol

Ok and my vote,.is,.yes.

++++++++

Engine:

Had the unfortunate experience of brand new stainless high grade screws being defect (I'm seeking retribution!)

These are the 4 screws needed for my engines cooling head.

As a result (and i tried everything else first) I cut off the top of my cooling head with a hacksaw and was then able to get the screws out using the torque bit method.

Unfortunately the threads on/in the crank case for these screws are gone. I will get it repaired by my friend who has access to high quality heli coil tools. (He repaired my steering knuckles too)

So I am waiting on delivery of a new crankcase and glow plug button.

I have all the other parts as spares already and am thinking that I'll simply (lol) rebuild the entire engine. Why not and when the other is repaired I have a RTR engine as backup.

So I have a few questions: But first this is my engine, Ofna force 3.2 though with different cooling head.

1. Can I use other carbs (such as 4.6 stock one, or 4.1 LS one) They fit,.but,. ermm? What do I need to look out for?

2. Do I coat each individual part in say after run oil during install?

3. Does anyone use high temp silicon sealant as an exhaust gasket?

4. Are there any other things I should be aware of?

Cheers.

[ShadowDEMON88]

What a spurprise the LHS didnt have want I needed.... so got a gallon of fuel instead!!

Just hoping for some half decent weather sometime this wkend!!

[Deafty]

what u fellas pay 4 fuel over there out of curosity.?

[ShadowDEMON88]

I just paid

[CalumR]

To question 2, yes put a little bit of after run oil on parts rubbing together. Dont use to much it will be a bitch to start first time.

Emptied a contain w with dirty cleaner fluid in didn't know that diff pins were there, opps.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

[CalumR]

I just paid

[Rusty1103]

You can get a tap an dye set for pretty cheap just re tap the thread unless the case is split.

1. Yes just watch your tune as factory settings for carbs vary and may not match the engine, richen it right out until the screws basically fall out

2. The just enough to ease the installation.

3. Use the sealant around the carb neck and backplate I would use the silicone gaskets that are ment for the exhaust not the sealant

4. Just make sure everything is clean and free from dirt

[Deafty]

3. Use the sealant around the carb neck and backplate I would use the silicone gaskets that are ment for the exhaust not the sealant

I've heard of others here on M;SUK using sealant instaed of gaskets. The reason I bring this up is I'm using the stock pipe on a different engine with a different rotostart.

The rotostart plate just intereferes with with gasket seating (minimal) but shortens the life of my gaskets when I remove rotostart for cleaning (which is very often) Pull start is the same.

I've always sealed my engines prior to break in for that extra peace of mind.

You can get a tap an dye set for pretty cheap just re tap the thread unless the case is split.

Gonna let my friend do it (hes got the high end stuff at work) though one of these kits would be good for other parts for sure. (eg; steering knuckles)

I will play around a little with my HSN + LSN needles from various carbs and compare the needles too,.might help finding where a rich starting setting is.

My most recent in use carb was very lean at flush! So I gotta be extra careful.

Will lube all the components during install and eventually test with rotostart. If all feels looks and sounds good I'll probably flush out the engine with fresh fuel before starting it for the first time.

Which will only be after a few heat cycles from my homemade engine heater.

Sound realistic or,.would anyone do something different.?

Interesting cost for rebuild.

27 Euro for everything including delivery. I won auctions over time and the company was happy to keep all the parts in the warehouse for over a month while I compiled extra winning bids. I could not ask for better service!

For newbies:

I needed:

• Engine crankcase with 2x bearings
  
• Backplate
  
• Crankshaft
  
• Piston and Sleeve
  
• Glow plug Button
  
• New cooling head cos It met my hacksaw.
  
• Carb (I have several already)
  
• Am I missing something lol.?
  

++++++

Not trying to flog a dead horse but for reference on diffs google "hudy rc guide"

Here is a quick reference:

Edited September 29, 2012 by Deafty

[mydoddy69]

Yep two big items

BRUSHLESS MOTOR AND ESC :tease:

Sorry just cant stop me self

[Rusty1103]

Yeah they are well worth it especially for engine mounts!!!! With that shopping list it seems o me like your engine has exploded lol

Yeah doddy he will get them then put them in concrete and chuck them in the ocean brushless fool

[Deafty]

I got those parts cos tey were dirt cheap wih the intent that when I need to do a rebuild I had everything,.But what I'm doing now is effectively gaining an extra engine for 27 Euro,

I'll get the defective crankcase repaired clean everything and rebuild,.It will be a suitable engine for my LS resale as a RTR

That Hudy guide by the way is impressive,

Oh yeah, I will buy a brushless setup if u can link all power items I need for less than 30 euro! I will get the mounts etc separately to be fair!

Perhaps we could compile some cost to run info.

• 1x Lipo @ $$ gives ?? ?? runs @ ?? minutes for a total of ??? hours/mins
  
• Fuel @ cost of 1x lipo gives ?? runs @ minutes for a total of ?? hours/mins
  

I think I know who wins but I'm curious..

Ofcaoarse other factors are involved but we should still get a pretty good idea.

Edited September 29, 2012 by Deafty

[stevek32]

May have a prob or may just be thick?. Basically I have a brand new never been started 4.6 engine. Just did the clutch conversion to 3 shoes. And noticed when the piston at bdc I heard a click like a spring click from inside engine. So I removed pullstart and one way bearing and click stopped. Ok so I put it together and click was back so with intension of taking the backplate off and seeing it was conrod or something, but as I went to remove backplate realised it made the click on opposite rotation of cam, on full rotation the piston or cam didn't move but there was a click but on correct rotation piston moved ok and no click until I put pullstart bearing back on. Is this a normal click on hyper engine u can turn cam either way and piston moves. Didn't want to remove backplate as its sealed and didn't want to break the joint. Any advice guys? Have they got an anti reverse bearing in there?.

[ShadowDEMON88]

May have a prob or may just be thick?. Basically I have a brand new never been started 4.6 engine. Just did the clutch conversion to 3 shoes. And noticed when the piston at bdc I heard a click like a spring click from inside engine. So I removed pullstart and one way bearing and click stopped. Ok so I put it together and click was back so with intension of taking the backplate off and seeing it was conrod or something, but as I went to remove backplate realised it made the click on opposite rotation of cam, on full rotation the piston or cam didn't move but there was a click but on correct rotation piston moved ok and no click until I put pullstart bearing back on. Is this a normal click on hyper engine u can turn cam either way and piston moves. Didn't want to remove backplate as its sealed and didn't want to break the joint. Any advice guys? Have they got an anti reverse bearing in there?.

I think the click you can hear it a little pin that sits in the bottom of the conrod. It engages when u pull the pullstart to turn the crank. On the piston that the one way bearing sits on there is a grove for that little pin to engage into when rotated.

So the click is that little pin engaging.... IMO but I could be wrong.

[stevek32]

Ok thankyou. I can stop panicking now is that spring pin not a weak point?. Like I said force engines rotate either way why did hpi feel the need to complicate the engine more?.

[Deafty]

I'm using an ofna .32 not hpi branded and it is the same,. but I must say its less noisy than my hpi original .28

What s ya breakin method of choice?

[stevek32]

well im thinking...

1, tank tick over

then grounded

1, tank 1/4 throttle blips

1, tank 1/2 throttle blips...5sec...15 sec rest

1 tank 3/4... 5 sec...20 sec rest

1 tank full throttle 5 sec...2o sec rest

checking temps on the rest interview

any thoughts?