The Adventure's of Ting Ting's Rustler

[Tingting44]

31 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

im guessing you like green 

ive loved green since i was a toddler lol  

[Stormbringer]

looks pretty good tho 

[Tingting44]

few more bits from the lovely posty 😛 

[Tingting44]

does anyone know of any green driveshafts (not plastic) i see some on youtube but cant find the video again to ask the person 😞

 

edit, damn it! now i see a green ESC fan 😞  and would love a green 4s motor and esc combo, but i think ill keep what i got for now as this is getting rather expensive

Edited January 28, 2021 by Tingting44

[Jens]

I might have something green for you:

https://www.vgracing.com/category/Slash_Springs.html

Green progressive springs for the GTR shocks.

 

For myself I looked all of last night for good shocks longer than the GTR ones (abt 120mm).

Found nothing. Now I ordered the GTR shocks as well.

But I will fit the longer ones for the rear also to the front (advice from the Traxxas forum).

 

[Tingting44]

1 hour ago, Jens said:

I might have something green for you:

https://www.vgracing.com/category/Slash_Springs.html

Green progressive springs for the GTR shocks.

 

For myself I looked all of last night for good shocks longer than the GTR ones (abt 120mm).

Found nothing. Now I ordered the GTR shocks as well.

But I will fit the longer ones for the rear also to the front (advice from the Traxxas forum).

 

how much you looking for the springs mate?

 

so your getting the longer xxl ones for the front too? i thought it was the rear ones that would not be long enough? hope it all works out for you tho, keep me posted

[Tingting44]

sorry jens what rc are you trying to source shocks for mate?

[Jens]

40 minutes ago, Tingting44 said:

sorry jens what rc are you trying to source shocks for mate?

Same as yours. :-)

Rustler 4x4 VXL.

 

Rear one are not long enough. I like a higher clearance.

But I hope I can fix the shocks on the inner most hole of the suspension arm.

Then use hard progressive springs.

It might be enough.

 

Then if I use the XXL ones in the front and I would get enough clearance there.

 

I want the clearance to match the terrain around here where I bash most of the time.

Edited January 28, 2021 by Jens

[Tingting44]

ah that makes sense then

[Tingting44]

morning, i just took out all the hollow balls out of the front and rear turnbuckles and camber links, to give them a clean and put them back into my new green rpm rod ends, but ive just noticed out of all the hollow balls  2 are not flanged on one end, i thought all the hollow balls were suppose to be flanged...? so my question is where do these 2 non flanged hollow balls come from? as on the exploded views it does not say.....

Edited January 30, 2021 by Tingting44

[Jens]

4 hours ago, Tingting44 said:

morning, i just took out all the hollow balls out of the front and rear turnbuckles and camber links, to give them a clean and put them back into my new green rpm rod ends, but ive just noticed out of all the hollow balls  2 are not flanged on one end, i thought all the hollow balls were suppose to be flanged...? so my question is where do these 2 non flanged hollow balls come from? as on the exploded views it does not say.....

Just yesterday I was working on those hollow balls and had somehow the same problem.

I had to replace all the rod ends since the balls were too loose.

I bought the replacement set and first did everything wrong.

 

It seems that each ball has a specific location and according to the manual should even be fixed in a specific way.

Page 27 says something about that.

 

The balls come with different diameters. Getting the right one for the steering is essential.

The inside one must fit perfectly (7mm?).

The outside ones have 8mm and I must add 2 washers. But that is probably due to to my Tekno CVD kit.

 

With lots of bashing, rod ends might need to be replaced regularly.

Green rod ends are nice, but replacing them when the balls went loose is costly.

 

The rod ends for the steering take lot of "beating" when you have TPM activated.

The servo is constantly correcting to keep you going straight.

 

[Tingting44]

What a pain in the arse! hmmmm

 

just measured one of my hollow balls, its 5.7mm wide...

Edited January 30, 2021 by Tingting44

[Jens]

That's what I like about the Rustler.

Finely tuned and can be finely by us.

Very much thought through.

BUT, it is a pain to get everything right.

 

Did you know, depending on where you fix the camber rods the camber angle changes differently when the car takes sharp turns...

I had to read through the manual many times to start understanding all the fine tuning options available.

 

[Tingting44]

yes looks like its back to the manual for me too lol, i wish the instructions of fine details like this were more clearly explained in the exploded views tho tbh, im all for fine tuning, but just be clear where things go 😞 the manual says about the balls having one flange on one side but nothing about a non flanged hollow ball?

Edited January 30, 2021 by Tingting44

[Jens]

30 minutes ago, Tingting44 said:

yes looks like its back to the manual for me too lol, i wish the instructions of fine details like this were more clearly explained in the exploded views tho tbh, im all for fine tuning, but just be clear where things go 😞 the manual says about the balls having one flange on one side but nothing about a non flanged hollow ball?

Can you post a picture of that non flanged hollow ball?

[Tingting44]

2 minutes ago, Jens said:

Can you post a picture of that non flanged hollow ball?

I've added a pic of one flange so u can see difference, only thing I can think of is the 2 balls with both non flanges are to go on the steering turn buckets on the inside as there is only 2 of them?

[Tingting44]

I'm also trying to install these caster blocks, but wouldn't it make sense for the non green part to be on the inside so you do not see it? Unless I have them the wrong way but I don't think so...

[Jens]

1 minute ago, Tingting44 said:

I've added a pic of one flange so u can see difference, only thing I can think of is the 2 balls with both non flanges are to go on the steering turn buckets on the inside as there is only 2 of them?

Got it now.

Flanged to the outside of the steering rods. But it should fit nicely between the arms. If not use shims.

non flanged goes to the inside. There the size is also important. Must fit nicely between the arms.

Rest goes anywhere else.

[Tingting44]

1 minute ago, Jens said:

Got it now.

Flanged to the outside of the steering rods. But it should fit nicely between the arms. If not use shims.

non flanged goes to the inside. There the size is also important. Must fit nicely between the arms.

Rest goes anywhere else.

yeah thats the conclusion i came to

[Jens]

6 minutes ago, Tingting44 said:

I'm also trying to install these caster blocks, but wouldn't it make sense for the non green part to be on the inside so you do not see it? Unless I have them the wrong way but I don't think so...

 

 

Same as in the exploded views!

 

Inside is more visible. Outside will be covered by the wheels. :-)

 

[Tingting44]

6 minutes ago, Jens said:

Same as in the exploded views!

 

Inside is more visible. Outside will be covered by the wheels. 🙂

 

lol thanks 😛

[Tingting44]

i take it ill be ok to use loctite on the metal screws going into the aluminum, wouldnt want to lose them for any reason

[Jens]

👍

[Tingting44]

Loctite drying, tested it on some screws it takes near 24 hours to set really nice and hard, is cold in the shed tho

[Tingting44]

Just trying to figure out where these Philips screws go that came with these rear ones, can't go where I've got it as that's as far as it goes in, strange