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Arrma kraton extreme basher


mickturnip

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Need advise 

Going to order one of these .modelsport have the bundle .I don't want to buy the bundle then realize I need to upgrade like the servo .batteries .n motor combo .can someone tell me the best things to go for .I ask this as I have never had electric and have no experience with electric .

Thanks for the help 

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Start by looking at what's supplied in the RTR, then look around for similar that's in your budget range. 

 

For radio gear, I tend to only run Spekky. 

 

Servos, only interested in Hitec, but do have some Savox. 

 

Motors and ESCs, the world's your oyster, plenty out there. Anything in the 1800 to 2200 range if you want speed. Nothing smaller than 40mm diameter and 74mm length. Preferably ribbed. 

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I'd go with the Corally instead,  the Arma Extreme Basher assembly teams did a  Fu**y wucky.

https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/243029-arrma-kraton-exb-extreme-bash-roller-speed-truck/

 

I'd go for the Kronos https://www.modelsport.co.uk/corally-kronos-xp-6s-monster-truck-1-8-lwb-brushless-rtr/rc-car-products/444328

 

The electrics are top notch,  they are using a full fat rebranded Hobbywing MAX8 ,  and the motor is a Chunky Boi inside on the Windings, Stator and Rotor.

 

 

AJ is having a smashing time with his,  very well built,   and the company is run by an actual RC enthusiast and it shows

 

 

 

 

 

You also Perfectly timed buying your truck,  as they are doing the V2 Parts bundle right now.

https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/243721-team-corally-python-6s-or-similar-recommendation/

 

https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/242795-team-corally-kronos-xp-6s/

 

 

 

 

Edited by GorillaZilla
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13 minutes ago, mickturnip said:

It's the bit with no connector do they have to be soldered on ?

If you buy the bundle Modelsport are soldering the connectors onto the ESC for you and when buying the ESC/Motor combo on its own you can either do it yourself or get Modelsport to solder whatever connectors you want on to it for a few extra quid.

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I cancelled my pre-order for the Kraton EXB due to quality control issues, chances are the rear diff will explode and getting parts to fix it will be difficult at the moment.

Shame Arrma messed up again, its becoming a habit with them!

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Going from 4s to 6s is like adding a turbo to a real car, its quite impressive. More cells = more power = more rpm and quicker

 

On the Arrma group most run Max 6 combo with a 24t pinion and get good temps with crazy speeds, other option is the Castle monster mamba X and then Max 8 combo

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Nice, i hear good and bad about the EXB, same for the Kraton 6s v4 which i also own. I mean ive had some decent jumps, rolls, cartwheelies, hit a few trees head on and all thats happened to mine is few scratches.

 

Some people say the go out do 1 run and there car explodes lol

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1 hour ago, Logie said:

Nice, i hear good and bad about the EXB, same for the Kraton 6s v4 which i also own. I mean ive had some decent jumps, rolls, cartwheelies, hit a few trees head on and all thats happened to mine is few scratches.

 

Some people say the go out do 1 run and there car explodes lol

Model sport said some of the earlier modes had a shim missing on the rear diff .that was on the v1 .they said to check it when I get it .spent £1260 on it .my birthday present to me lol

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Nice have to let me know how the max 6 goes, will prob put one in my Kraton in a few weeks, want to run a 14t in mine 6s with no heat problems then pick up a exb later when stocks are back

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Should be alright as long as you don't land on the rear wing mount,  as the Kraton just is no where near as beefy as the Corally Kronos in a lot of places.

 

 

Chunky Boi Kronos Double braced Wing mount\2nd rear bumper.

DB7-CB27-E-24-D0-4-EA6-88-C4-D9-AEAF7-A4

55-E13-D0-E-4-A8-F-46-C7-A263-FEB44-D0-F

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kraton EXB wing mount,  Very flimsy in comparison.

ARA106053_a8_2wi8-mj.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Otherwise the Kraton is alright     No where near the best bashing truggy,  but if you DIY secure that tube brace in the middle,  to the center diff mount to stop it from bending.    Dump the wing and mount when it breaks,  then Shoegoe + Fibreglass tape the bodyshell to handle the extra beating from the missing wing mount and you should be solid enough from that point :tank: 

Edited by GorillaZilla
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Yeah The Kronos is stronger in a lot of places,  That chassis bracing man....    The only RC I've seen that beats your Hyper ST pro's chassis Bracing,  and that's one of the reasons I went with the ST too.     I'm going to move my Hypers down to my Nephew (take em apart,  then build them with him to give him that kit build experience )

Then get myself a Pro level Competition Kronos kit when they release them early next year.

 

(Hyper ST Pro)

hobao-hyper-st-pro-18th-truggy429.jpg

 

 

As for LiPos, get yourself a couple of these Puppies and remove the Rubber seal to prevent pressure buildup in the event of a Lipo getting volcanic veins https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ammo-Box-Ammo-Can-Tool-Box-Storage-Box-Ex-Army-Ammunition-Boxes-Grade-2/124009699278?hash=item1cdf8dd7ce:g:D54AAOSwFl9e0ese

 

One for Charging in,  one for storing the rest of your LiPos.

Cheap as chips and has been thoroughly tested and can contain the worst LiPo fires,  even with a LOT of big batteries in there.        You can see on the vid in my Signature.

 

Stick em on a stone floor tile to prevent heat transfer to whatever floor or table you have em on and bobs ya uncle,  jobs a goodun.

Edited by GorillaZilla
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