walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 I think I need to open up my gearbox, count teeth and do the maths. I also need to make a motor plate that will allow me to fit the gearbox into something like the correct position in the available space as it’s nowhere near as low profile or user friendly as the gearboxes you guys have used... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 11 hours ago, walkbythesea said: My Austar 1:10 arrived today In hindsight, reading the lost in translation eBay description I think they mean it’s for 1:10 scale cars, not that it’s a 10:1 reduction - I think the reduction is much greater having run it this morning. 11 hours ago, walkbythesea said: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Good afternoon all. I need some advice... my second servo for the rear steer arrived today so I've fitted it, but with a Y-cable the damn thing goes the wrong way. Is there an easy way to reverse it without buying a little reverser thing (mainly because I'm impatient). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 19 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: Good afternoon all. I need some advice... my second servo for the rear steer arrived today so I've fitted it, but with a Y-cable the damn thing goes the wrong way. Is there an easy way to reverse it without buying a little reverser thing (mainly because I'm impatient). I haven’t even tried mine with a Y cable, but I do have one - I’ll try it tomorrow and report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 3 hours ago, walkbythesea said: I haven’t even tried mine with a Y cable, but I do have one - I’ll try it tomorrow and report back It's alright, I've found a way round it. First I opened up my new servo with the idea of flipping the wires but it wouldn't come apart. I've now managed to flip over the front steer servo in the car which has effectively changed its direction. Works lovely now. I'm just waiting on 2 new bearings (as the rear Steer kit only came with 2 for the hubs but I need 4) and she should be up and running. Had a quick drive on the carpet and it seems to all be working lovely. Hoping the bearings arrive tomorrow! Wheelspinmodels were kind enough to post me some FOC. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Eclipsed4ever said: I'm just waiting on 2 new bearings (as the rear Steer kit only came with 2 for the hubs but I need 4) and she should be up and running. Had a quick drive on the carpet and it seems to all be working lovely. Hoping the bearings arrive tomorrow! Wheelspinmodels were kind enough to post me some FOC. Why do you need 4? You’re making me think I’m missing some bearings somewhere now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 12 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Why do you need 4? You’re making me think I’m missing some bearings somewhere now... Don't the steering hubs have 2 bearings in each? I've fitted two in 1 hub in mine and it looks good. I thought it could be that I should reuse my rear bearings but they're 1mm bigger OD. The ones from the original outlaw front hubs fit though. The rears are 11 (OD) x 5 (ID) x 4 (W) and the fronts are 10 (OD) x 5 (ID) x 4 (W). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 14 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: Don't the steering hubs have 2 bearings in each? I've fitted two in 1 hub in mine and it looks good. I thought it could be that I should reuse my rear bearings but they're 1mm bigger OD. The ones from the original outlaw front hubs fit though. The rears are 11 (OD) x 5 (ID) x 4 (W) and the fronts are 10 (OD) x 5 (ID) x 4 (W). Crikey, I’m going to have to take mine to bits now and have a look, I don’t remember! 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Lots done tonight - just need to fit the rear driveshaft and the bumper, but I left them at work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 8 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Crikey, I’m going to have to take mine to bits now and have a look, I don’t remember! 🤣 Happy to help... 😁😁😁 The progress is looking good! You've got a much straighter front drive than mine. I've had to bodge my front shaft at the moment as the Mauler shaft didn't come with a 4mm grub screw which was marginally annoying. It's got a cut down cap head in it for now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 FTX are super tight with grub screws, if you buy a pinion it doesn’t have a screw either. Mine is just a normal Outlaw driveshaft cut down to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) Love the motor mounting plate good call! Why isnt your servo straight? The mauler allows gives a little more room, as the outlaw plastic cv knuckles take up quite a bit more room. Edited March 11, 2021 by Redback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 4 minutes ago, Redback said: Love the motor mounting plate good call! Why isnt your servo straight? The mauler allows gives a little more room, as the outlaw plastic cv knuckles take up quite a bit more room. The motor plate is actually a part of my camper van, left over after I cut the windows in. 😂 The servo is not straight because I deliberately repositioned it to allow a straighter run for the front drive and give clearance around the UJ - the Outlaw driveshaft is what I had to hand. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 3 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: The motor plate is actually a part of my camper van, left over after I cut the windows in. 😂 The servo is not straight because I deliberately repositioned it to allow a straighter run for the front drive and give clearance around the UJ - the Outlaw driveshaft is what I had to hand. Ah that makes sense and seems to work just fine! Having it straight seems like a good move, I haven't had any failures with it not being inline, your setups better for less rolling resistance also! 👍 Might be worth going up some pinion sizes to something in the 20+ range for that transmission or might be very slow and not have the wheel speed to bounce over obstacles , looking forwards to seeing how it performs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 hour ago, walkbythesea said: Crikey, I’m going to have to take mine to bits now and have a look, I don’t remember! 🤣 2 bearings per hub in mine, all is well in the world 👌 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 20 minutes ago, Redback said: Might be worth going up some pinion sizes to something in the 20+ range for that transmission or might be very slow and not have the wheel speed to bounce over obstacles , looking forwards to seeing how it performs. I wish I’d counted the teeth on the supplied pinion before I sealed it up, was pretty large though, if I had to guess I’d say low twenties 👍 Should have it fully back together and running tomorrow, weather permitting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Well the last 2 bearings arrived this morning so I finished it all off and went for a burn during a break in the weather. What a difference! The truck is lovely to drive at low speed now. Really responsive and you can easily tackle much more difficult objects. Unfortunately, within about 30 seconds of getting going I smashed one of the rear CVs. End of the shaft snapped straight off. So I've removed the rear steer at the moment and put the straight axle back on. Had a good half hour of stress free driving (bar wheels falling off). Really pleased with the modifications. Top speed is obviously a lot less but it's not bad. Might struggle to outrun the children now but it's fine what what I do most of the time. It still has enough speed to hit obstacles with as well. Annoyingly, I did take a few videos but when I got back in and checked my GoPro, they're all corrupted 😡 So there's a couple of things to try and tackle. The most annoying is the wheel nuts coming undone and falling off. I've not superglued all the hexes and pins so I'm not losing those, but wheels falling off every 5 minutes is infuriating. There just isn't enough thread to get a standard M4 nyloc nut on with a washer behind it. Any recommendations? Second problem is the rear CVs. I presume a Kanyon shaft will fit this. Is there an upgraded unit at all? I don't like how easy that one snapped as I wasn't even giving it any stick really. I also need to do something with the front servo. It works where it is, but the front steering has already been pretty rubbish. I'm not sure if that's how much slack there is in the 'servo saver' thing? Are these normally tight? Is it really required? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Re: the rear CV, contact CML and send it back - I have hammered the hell out of mine with locked diffs and no consequences - sounds like a manufacturing fault - CML have been excellent with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Re: Wheelnuts - since I switched to these I’ve had no problems https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-10-x-serrated-flanged-m4-wheel-nuts-silver-rc-car-1-10-tamiya-hpi-traxxas-/273913572381?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 They’re thinner but serrated and grip the wheels really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 That front servo will give you very little throw now because of the angle of the rods - if it’s still the stock servo it’ll be woefully underpowered too - I have 25kg servos at both ends on mine now. I presume you’re using the stock 2ch radio with the rear steer? I think you need to find a different solution to reverse the rear servo to put your front one back the correct way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 1 minute ago, walkbythesea said: That front servo will give you very little throw now because of the angle of the rods - if it’s still the stock servo it’ll be woefully underpowered too - I have 25kg servos at both ends on mine now. I presume you’re using the stock 2ch radio with the rear steer? I think you need to find a different solution to reverse the rear servo to put your front one back the correct way around. I bought the car second hand so I think I'm on a different Tx. It's still only 2 channel though. Since I bought the car the front steering has been pants, even with the servo in the correct position. I've just been looking at a new servo saver and I think the top might of snapped off of mine - there's no C-clip to hold the spring on mine, it is just kept on by the top chassis plate. I think this won't be helping. As for the servo, if I step it out a few mm I can get a pretty straight push with it round the way that it is. It's just it will sit outside the chassis plate a fraction. It's still on the original servo as you say. I might swap my new rear steer one in to the front to see how it performs then. 6 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Re: Wheelnuts - since I switched to these I’ve had no problems https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-10-x-serrated-flanged-m4-wheel-nuts-silver-rc-car-1-10-tamiya-hpi-traxxas-/273913572381?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 They’re thinner but serrated and grip the wheels really well. Ordered! Thank you! 8 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Re: the rear CV, contact CML and send it back - I have hammered the hell out of mine with locked diffs and no consequences - sounds like a manufacturing fault - CML have been excellent with me. I'll get in touch with them. I must of got the duffer rear steer kit I think - 2 missing bearings and a shaft made of chocolate. Hey ho! Will get it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Having got it secondhand did it come with the aluminium hex’s or did you fit them? They’re much thicker than stock and won’t help the wheelnut scenario. The servo saver being broken won’t help - what pull is the new servo? The stock one is only 3kg and those tyres and very large! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 39 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: I also need to do something with the front servo. It works where it is, but the front steering has already been pretty rubbish. I'm not sure if that's how much slack there is in the 'servo saver' thing? Are these normally tight? Is it really required? So for slack steering the E clips always pop off the rubbish servo saver making it really weak, i glued my servo saver after giving up on loosing eclips and havent had a servo fail. This is the eclip im on about and it looks to be missing here. You can also try a servo saver arm but i found this was also to weak to move my large tires. Not surprised the rear cv snapped with brushless power, sorry to see it happen but i feel its going to be a weak point. Bbare in mind your putting tons more torque into these than they are designed to take, front not so much an issue as its pulling, but the rear pushing takes more loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 14 minutes ago, Redback said: 14 minutes ago, Redback said: Not surprised the rear cv snapped with brushless power, sorry to see it happen but i feel its going to be a weak point. I’d looked at it but not really absorbed that it was brushless - yes, that could be an issue.., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 IMG_5371.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.