New Hyper ST Pro build in 2020? (brushless)

[champ222]

Hi All

 

Ive recently got back into the hobby. Years ago i had a Nitro Hyper 7 and Hyper ST. Ive recently bought a used associated RC8B3e with some 4S batteries, radio, charger etc, and i'm very happy with it.

 

However.... i'm feeling the pull of another car (you know the drill), and i'd really like to build it from scratch. It seems i'm the only one left that likes building the kit, since everything 1/8 is RTR except for the race kits @£500 ish.... all except for the Hyper ST Pro (unless ive missed any others?) which can be had for about £270. A truggy would compliment the buggy nicely.

 

I dont race, and never will (dont have the time) so its just bashing really. 

 

I'd build it brushless from new, and sell on any of the bits i dont use (engine mounts, fuel tank etc).

 

The ST pro has been out for years now, am i mad to buy one of these? as i said, i'm only bashing, so i dont need to be competitive or anything. But i cant find any 1/8 kits anywhere for even close to this price.

 

Ive looked on modelsport and wheelspin, filtered for unassembled kits and the ST Pro doesnt come up on wheelspin, so maybe there are others and its just the filters that arent working?

 

Thanks guys

 

 

[capri-boy]

ST Pro - E is one of the best basher truggy's available.  It's weakest link are the stock shocks, which age and sag under BL weight (motor and lipos).  Some people (myself) included don't like the spider centre diff - sell it and put a rtr 52t diff in - it'll handle 6s fine. I've had multiple, and keep coming back to them.  Currently run a Hong Nor X1 CRT Pro with IRC chassis which just edges the ST Pro, but is long discontinued.

 

Conversion is easy, nitro parts don't have much of a market though.  If you need any help converting give me a shout.

 

I guess the other issue, is cost - compared to the current flavour of the month ARRMA.  But as you say you can't build them (and nowhere near as good as the Pro).  Fwiw 5s/6s is ideal, a 1800kv motor of 74mm or longer. 

[champ222]

Thanks for that. 

 

What dont you like about the spider diff? Isnt just a stronger version of the regular diff? Or is it just the gearing you dont like?

 

As you say the arrma models are all the rage, but no option to build them.

 

Ive got a motor mount already. The esc in the buggy will do 6s apparently,  cant see as id ever need more than 4s in that, so could use that esc in the ST, then id just need a motor, and a new 4s esc for the buggy.

 

Was hoping for reasonable performance with 4s in the ST, itll be for jumps rather than speed i imagine.  But the esc swap would give me options certainly.

[Jumper]

I have had mine for a few years now and its pretty good. it does break every now and then, but most rc's do that.  I broke 1 centre diff with 100k a few years ago, but my current one has been rebuilt once and runs 500k oil and its been fine. i think the volume of oil inside is quite small because its full of gears, it the centre can get very hot if you run thinner oil and run 6s.  By the time you have all the arrma trucks to the same spec as the hyper st pro, you could have bought a better quality kit like the tekno or xray, but as you said they are all rtr anyway.  

[capri-boy]

Spider diff leaks unless you put so thick oil in it you might as well have locked it.  A few reports of failing internal gears too (i've never had that issue).

 

4S just never cut it for me in the ST Pro (or all 1/8 truggy conversions i've had).  4S may manage in a lighterweight modern e-truggy - like the SSTe / NT48.3.  5S is my sweet spot, which of course causes niggles with some Hobbywing esc's.

 

 

 

 

[champ222]

Thanks guys

 

Ive seen some other comments suggesting 4s in the ST isnt all that. I'll leave my options open regarding batteries. I have 2x 4S hardcase batteries at the moment. Would like similar dimensions in all batteries really.

 

So, if building an ST Pro for brushless, what changes should i make during assembly? 

• Different diff oils i assume? RTR centre diff in place of the spider if i can find one - any recommendations for oil? 
• Shocks - can i get stiffer springs, or would i be better with bigger shocks and springs? - different shock oil?
• Body shell - the one that comes with the kit seems to be pre cut, so a motor hole and a re-fuel hole annoyingly - i could cover the motor hole with some black plastic or something, and maybe put some mesh over the fill hole, or get a new shell and sell the stock one - there are some comments that the RC8T shells fit, there are some proline ones about, and Mugen side skirts work well with the body, and gives a bit more battery space/protection.
• I dont want to replace the wheels/tyres straight away, but i could fit some better foam before i glue the tyres on if its worth the effort?

 

Thanks guys

[Jumper]

On 20/02/2020 at 16:32, champ222 said:

Thanks guys

 

Ive seen some other comments suggesting 4s in the ST isnt all that. I'll leave my options open regarding batteries. I have 2x 4S hardcase batteries at the moment. Would like similar dimensions in all batteries really.

 

So, if building an ST Pro for brushless, what changes should i make during assembly? 

• Different diff oils i assume? RTR centre diff in place of the spider if i can find one - any recommendations for oil? 
• Shocks - can i get stiffer springs, or would i be better with bigger shocks and springs? - different shock oil?
• Body shell - the one that comes with the kit seems to be pre cut, so a motor hole and a re-fuel hole annoyingly - i could cover the motor hole with some black plastic or something, and maybe put some mesh over the fill hole, or get a new shell and sell the stock one - there are some comments that the RC8T shells fit, there are some proline ones about, and Mugen side skirts work well with the body, and gives a bit more battery space/protection.
• I dont want to replace the wheels/tyres straight away, but i could fit some better foam before i glue the tyres on if its worth the effort?

 

Thanks guys

for oil in mine i run 30k-500k-30k 

i just run the standard shocks and oil, and they do sag a bit. 

i got a new st pro shell recently and it didnt have the engine hole or fuel hole cut out. 

the standard wheel and tyres will wear out quite fast. i wouldnt bother doing much with them. 

 

[shdaxner]

I ran my Hyper ST pro on 5s a few years ago, was an absolute beast and I loved that thing....super strong basher but the big sticking point for me was the utterly rubbish shocks, I ended up modifying mine to fit twin shocks, this was much better - otherwise just get used to the truck slapping the ground on every landing.

 

Not sure if you can even get the bits and bats to do a decent conversion these days? Losi battery tray, Mugen MBX6T side guards, the CNC'd motor mount which somebody on here used to knock up, Proline Bulldog shell

[champ222]

Thanks guys, sorry, life got in the way.

 

I have a motor mount already. Some 4s batteries that id use, initially at least. Im sure ive seen someone use the battery tray from a team associated rc8b3e in an ST. I have one in my buggy, so i could do a test fit. They are easy enough the get. There are some rc8t3 shells about, which are reported to fit. Plus i think, and Jumper above suggests, the shells you buy seperately are uncut. There must be some bigger shocks about that can be made to fit too. Surely? They all look fundamentally the same sort of design.

[capri-boy]

Hong Nor Big Bores..... but you may have an issue with diff side dog bones popping out under neg loading.   I've seen others use tekno ET48.3 shocks.

[champ222]

Thanks guys. Ill check those out. Any ideas where i might get the hong nors from?

[Nickarla]

On 23/02/2020 at 14:29, capri-boy said:

Hong Nor Big Bores..... but you may have an issue with diff side dog bones popping out under neg loading.   I've seen others use tekno ET48.3 shocks.

 

That's I interesting, I'm using dog bones in the rear as I believe they were longer than the cvds.  Not had any issue of popping out.

[Nickarla]

On 23/02/2020 at 23:46, champ222 said:

Thanks guys. Ill check those out. Any ideas where i might get the hong nors from?

 

I got some big bores from China (aliexpress) that were 95% identical to Hong Nors and no less in quality for around £9 per pair including postage. However with Corona I have no idea what the situation from buying from there would be at the moment,

[capri-boy]

On 22/03/2020 at 22:03, Nickarla said:

 

I got some big bores from China (aliexpress) that were 95% identical to Hong Nors and no less in quality for around £9 per pair including postage. However with Corona I have no idea what the situation from buying from there would be at the moment,

 

The HN knock offs are ok,  though not sure i'd say 95% of the originals.  Each to their own.

 

On 22/03/2020 at 22:00, Nickarla said:

 

That's I interesting, I'm using dog bones in the rear as I believe they were longer than the cvds.  Not had any issue of popping out.

 

You can also shim the axle inwards slightly too, it does help.

[Nickarla]

3 hours ago, capri-boy said:

 

The HN knock offs are ok,  though not sure i'd say 95% of the originals.  Each to their own.

 

In which way? I've tested, used and measured both side by side. 95% was maybe a bit unfair. 99% of the Hong nors maybe more accurate, 1% docked because they dont come with a plastic eyelet to mount onto certain suspension towers. I cannot discern any difference in practice at all.

[capri-boy]

I'll post some comparisons when the world gets back to 'normality' and I can access the workshop.