Vr5fx Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) Hey guys. I have a 1/5th motor and ESC, so I'm going to go ahead and convert one of my KMs I found this on Ebay, and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the set? It comes with everything I'll need to convert (I think), but I'm not sure on quality.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Metal-Conversion-kit-without-Motor-and-battery-for-1-5-hpi-baja-5b-ss/132422381432?hash=item1ed4fd2f78:g:VJUAAOSwZB9aJPmJ Next up, the motor I have is a FG 910kv, approx 6082 in size, What would the best gearing be for 6s use? (assuming I stick with the stock spur 57t) I'd like to start on 6, as I haven't got the batteries for 8s yet, as that is another investment. I also figure... Lighter the better for big brushless toys? The KM I'm converting has a metal cage, so would it be better to lose the cage and go back buggy style, and swap any ally for plastic for weight loss? Cheers peeps. Edited February 21, 2018 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) i never used this kit but the actual motor mount looks the same as all the rest do......i found all the hardwear very cheese like....so u may want to use sum decent stuff....mine fitted together quite well.....yep plastic cage b better imo...as in stock roll scage u mean?......u want ally in the places what need it Edited January 25, 2018 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 29 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: Hey guys. I have a 1/5th motor and ESC, so I'm going to go ahead and convert one of my KMs I found this on Ebay, and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the set? It comes with everything I'll need to convert (I think), but I'm not sure on quality.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Metal-Conversion-kit-without-Motor-and-battery-for-1-5-hpi-baja-5b-ss/132422381432?hash=item1ed4fd2f78:g:VJUAAOSwZB9aJPmJ Next up, the motor I have is a FG 910kv, approx 6082 in size, What would the best gearing be for 6s use? (assuming I stick with the stock spur 57t) I'd like to start on 6, as I haven't got the batteries for 8s yet, as that is another investment. I also figure... Lighter the better for big brushless toys? The KM I'm converting has a metal cage, so would it be better to lose the cage and go back buggy style, and swap any ally for plastic for weight loss? Cheers peeps. I'm no large scale brushless expert, but for the weight loss, I'm sure a brushless one is a bit lighter than stock petrol and the power output should be considerably more. Alloy is good where needed, but sometimes plastic works best. Things like arms and such I find nylon plastic is best. Turtle Racing front upper plate, I-RC chassis brace and RPM bumper should be about all you really need with the lack of an engine and exhaust to consider and obviously the full window set for the rear too. You don't have the worries of thicker engine bracing either which is almost 1kg in weight in itself saved. A big metal cage will add a lot though, so opting for the stock 5B style will definitely help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) when I said plastic cage I ment this one... I did weigh my bl 5b ss when I did mine.... it was lighter but not much tb h....1-2kg`s if that... Edited January 25, 2018 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 The KM in question has the "mad max cage" so full cage, and I'm probably going to go for the basic plastic roll cage. @evssv What conversion would you go for, if you were in the same position? The last thing I want to do is put un-needed strain on the motor, so I'd like to get it right first time round, with the weight and gearing. Hopefully anyway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) what u mean conversion???as in???here mine... Edited January 25, 2018 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 22 minutes ago, evssv said: what u mean conversion???as in???here mine... The motor/esc plates ect... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) 40 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: The KM in question has the "mad max cage" so full cage, and I'm probably going to go for the basic plastic roll cage. @evssv What conversion would you go for, if you were in the same position? The last thing I want to do is put un-needed strain on the motor, so I'd like to get it right first time round, with the weight and gearing. Hopefully anyway.... I`d keep it as mine dude.....less weight=more run time.....well all 15-20mins of it.......... Edited January 25, 2018 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: The motor/esc plates ect... I used the hobbyking one...which was/is identical to all the others bar the gen hpi one......I ran castle xl2 780kv combo in mine....and I had 14-16-18t pinnys....and I ran the 16 I thk... Edited January 25, 2018 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xulf Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I run a 14 t pinny 57 t hostile spur, 800kv castle 2028. my Kraken Baja '5K' weighs more than 13kg: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 On 1/26/2018 at 02:24, Xulf said: I run a 14 t pinny 57 t hostile spur, 800kv castle 2028. my Kraken Baja '5K' weighs more than 13kg: Cool thread! Shame some of the pics are dead I've sourced a motor mount and plates, so I'm mostly there. Need some pinions now, but they are damn expensive, but I'm unsure where to start... 14 seems to be a good place, so might go there, but if I want to run 6s, I'll need something more. The next problem, is that I don't have a program card for my ESC, and default, the LVC is set for 8s use... Golden question at the moment... What do people think of the HPI slipper clutch set? Thinking about getting one, as there would be no kind of give in the drive train without it... But I can't find any reviews at the moment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xulf Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 slipper was not made for brushless flux. i was in contact with Castle Creations support on this topic., too.They told me just to watch esc temp and motor temp after the first runs.. 6s cant stress the mamba xlx 2028 combo. Also the xlx esc has the ability to set a max amperage e.g. 200A. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) Been doing a bit of work on my conversion. Hell, it's mostly complete, so yay for me. I'm kinda stuck at the moment with the battery tray, or lack of. I ended up doing a DIY battery eliminator box, so there is some extra play room for packs, which wasn't really needed but it looks nicer. With how the baja chassis is built, there isn't a "need" for a battery tray. There are the sides to the chassis, the steering servo/battery box at the front and a chassis brace behind, so all 4 sides can secure the packs with some modding and padding. My problem at the moment, is how the velcro is looped around the chassis. so it's visible on the bottom of the chassis and will pick up loads of dirt... Has anyone managed to get around this somehow? Making the batteries secure without making it look tatty? I'll try get pics later of how it is currently looking. [EDIT] Edited February 21, 2018 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xulf Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 just loop the velcro over the upper chassis bar through the triangle recesses. If the battery sits on a foam and is about 5cm in height it will be fine. Castle Creations recommend it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xulf Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I wouldn't run the straps underneath like that, definitely worth trying to secure from above. Stock pinny was a 14, but I'm running a 15 with no issues and no motor fan. Noj runs a 17 tooth on 7S, swears by it. Vids please! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xulf Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 "FastEddy" explains it here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 5 hours ago, Xulf said: "FastEddy" explains it here. 5 hours ago, Tug said: I wouldn't run the straps underneath like that, definitely worth trying to secure from above. Stock pinny was a 14, but I'm running a 15 with no issues and no motor fan. Noj runs a 17 tooth on 7S, swears by it. Vids please! Cheers chaps. I'll take a look at it tomorrow with securing them like that, makes more sense! I'll update with more pictures. So, I was going to run it on 8s with a 16t pinion and the 910kv motor (looking at the castle combo in the future) but it sounds like that might be too much. I can run 7s by mixing 3s and 4s packs (Oooo ), so as long as I keep an eye on them it would be worth testing out. Then move up to 8s if it's not quite enough. I haven't got a motor cooler. I ordered one, but it's dual fan (2028 size) and mine is a bit shorter, so it wouldn't fit. If I'm honest, I don't know how this combo will work out, but fingers crossed. The only thing I'll be missing is a body shell. I'd want the flux version without the pull cut out.. Small things that I can live without. I'm taking my sweet time with it. Gotta finish off the wiring, some screws, RX to drop in and program the ESC, then it'll be test time. I have a GoPro on my TX, so vids will be available when tested. Thanks again for the input chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 910 will need gearing down, definitely better to get the 780/800 kv motor. The 910 might prove fast enough on 6S to be honest. My 780 would clock 37 mph on 6S, there's a vid on YouTube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 15 hours ago, Tug said: 910 will need gearing down, definitely better to get the 780/800 kv motor. The 910 might prove fast enough on 6S to be honest. My 780 would clock 37 mph on 6S, there's a vid on YouTube. Yeah, I'd love the 2028 combo, Amain has them in stock, but it'll be near 360 quid with import. I can try 6s, I can do a fair few blasts and keep an eye on temps. Would be easier on the combo too. I'm totally new at this 1/5th b/less business. Just need to get a start somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Leopard 58110, 780 kv is virtually a clone of the Castle motor, search around and you should find them for reasonable prices. Then go for a Max5, great ESCs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 24, 2018 Author Share Posted February 24, 2018 So this is how we are looking today. The velcro over the top works well, thanks for that! The cut down battery box is enclosed....ish. I cut a piece of polycarb and epoxied it in place. Also has polycarb down the sides and some at the rear, so the foam has something to sit against. glued the foam into place, and is currently setting. Snug as a bug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Looks good. Close to a test run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcoforever Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Should go well from next week ;P 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 21 hours ago, Tug said: Looks good. Close to a test run? Chucked the wiring in today for a test run. After some faffing with the ESC, got it programmed for 6s, I think it's designed to use the same cell packs all the time, as it doesn't pick up cell count on start up, but the cut-off is set by 0.1v increments. I think I need to tweak with the settings if I get it out again. The ESC has a few weird settings I've not seen before. On a few of the runs I'm hammering the throttle, and it seems to jump as it's speeding up, figure its something to do with the punch settings. The punch settings are ; Punch @ 25% 1st stage punch : 5 2nd stage punch : 5 I guess it's jumping between the punches, has me confused there...... I didn't have chance to take it out to stretch it's legs, only had the one lot of packs charged. Have another combo coming this week, so I'm in 2 minds, keep at it for a while, or swap the combo out when the new one arrives... Baby steps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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