spaners Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 On 04/02/2017 at 13:07, t2boats said: Have you changed the shock oil spaners? No its still as it came in the box. seems to soak up the bumps pretty well as is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 12 hours ago, t2boats said: Yes I bought the FlySky 6ch stick controller a while back, simply because I prefer stick and wanted a multi-model control which can bind to my host of FlySky receivers used in several cars. But my bubble was burst a bit as I found the steering channel(right hand stick was sprung so slack as it's primary use is for the main column control in aircraft and left was for throttle (mode 1 is it??). Once set up for a 2-ch car the thottle side of things was good as I'd added two very small springs inside which I'd clipped around two small screws I'd added inside, it sprung back to neutral - but the steering stick wouldn't quite centre, so the steering would wander and made driving extremely tricky and frustrating. Odd you ask actually as it was only yesterday I had the back off the controller again looking for a cure. Shame cos it's a nice Tx... Pity FlySky don't do a 2 or 3ch multi memory stick controller. Changing the modes was easy on mine just by selecting it on screen. Hi t2boats Thanks for the info, I have been doing a lot of research about the FlySky transmitters. The Gimbals on the FlySky FS-i6/X are interchangeable so if you want to convert from mode2 (throttle on left) to mode1 (throttle on right) you can swap the complete Gimbal assemblies over and then change the setting in the radio menu. I also found this, it is for the i6S but might work on the i6/X ? http://www.banggood.com/Flysky-i6S-FS-i6S-Self-Centering-Throttle-Mode-Change-Part-p-1078595.html I was playing with my Outlaw today and noticed when it tried to climb over like a brick or give it full throttle it would jerk and cutout, sometimes the Taranis would report that Telemetry was lost between it and the car, it turns out the original Outlaw ESC under heavy load reduces the voltage going to the receiver, the original outlaw receiver doesn't care about the low voltage and just keeps working under load, but the FrSky D4R-II that I was using would switch off, it obviously needs a higher working voltage. I measured the voltage at the receiver with my DVM and it dropped to around 2.7V under load. One possible cure for this would be to run the receiver supply direct from the battery bypassing the ESC but I decided to upgrade the ESC and bought one of the 320A ESC's mentioned earlier in this thread. I think I am going to get a FlySky FS-i6X for the Outlaw, so will give some feedback on that when I get one which should hopefully be this week along with the new ESC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanDare Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) This is (hopefully) a pic from my last weekend of 10th buggy racing, I took the Outlaw along for it's frosty debut run... & this is when it overheated with the 23t pinion. And here it is wearing a set of SCT boots... I took off the spare as obviously it wasn't the same size. Given how well it handled around our dirt track I think it'll be pretty handy with these on, but I took 'em off cos I already have a SCT Edited February 5, 2017 by DanDare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Going back to the gearbox, one thing i would like is a easy access to the pinion areaSent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Steel drive shaft came today. Just waiting on a brushless motor and a steel spur (finally killed my plastic one today under braking, previously slightly stripped on original 17t)Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 For the people that are using the Ebay 320A ESC (link below): Does the On/Off switch work on your ESC's ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320A-7-2V-16V-ESC-Brushed-Speed-Controller-High-Voltage-for-RC-Car-Truck-Boat-/262277012414?hash=item3d10ed9bbe:g:dAAAAOSw~OVWwaAK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Yes....works just fine. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 OK - Thanks John, I shall ask for a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Yep, all the 360a esc's I've bought have working switches.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Thanks t2boats - My switch does nothing but the ESC seems to work fine apart from that. There are scratches and marks on the bottom which lead me to think its a returned unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spaners Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I'm curious, why would you go for that esc? Its not water proof I think the load rating is somewhat hope-full, bearing in mind the gauge of wire used (14 awg) I would think maybe 35A 320A mite be a peak for a few seconds Better to spend a couple of quid more on a branded waterproof esc if you ask me 2 hours ago, hamradioguy said: For the people that are using the Ebay 320A ESC (link below): Does the On/Off switch work on your ESC's ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320A-7-2V-16V-ESC-Brushed-Speed-Controller-High-Voltage-for-RC-Car-Truck-Boat-/262277012414?hash=item3d10ed9bbe:g:dAAAAOSw~OVWwaAK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 For s cheap ESC it's not half bad. Handles 3s with no,problem at all. Doesn't even get warm. Picked one up cheap,to use temporarily and have been surprised with how good it is. So it is what it is. A cheap,ESC but one that can handle a bigger load than you would expect. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I've used those particular esc's for several years on various brushed rc's. Fitted one to my sons Losi Mini Monster Baja (twin motor) as the stock combi rx/esc died within a few hours of use. This cheapy esc is still going to this day - 7yrs later yeah they're not waterproof, I'm just careful and don't use them near puddles. (I'm quite fussy with what RC's I own are subjected to water/mud etc, some I keep as dry runners) I've ran one in the Outlaw for a little while with 3S up its backside with no problems. Still have the smaller type esc (basically same but no cooling fan, just a heat sink) installed in a Mardave Mini Stock. Doesn't miss a beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Had a weak moment and joined the Outlaw club though jury is still out after the initial runs. Went with the brushed version intending to out the stock electrics for something better and it's a good job because they're pants! Motor overgeared on 17t, ESC has useless BEC that browns out and the servo is lame even by RTR standards Don't intend to go mad with it, aim is for something with 90% the talent of my old Yeti for half the money. First thing, anyone locked the back axle yet? It's useless at slow speed trail stuff with the open diffs. Also any tips on suspension tune? On mine, front seems out of kilter with all the travel at the back but so far I only seem to have managed to make it want to traction roll without improving anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I ousted the stock electrics straight away, so don't know what the esc and servo were like if I'm honest, though only being 3kg I should imagine it's not the best when trying to move those big tyres. Fitted a metal geared 17kg servo now, much better. Suspension wise I've put 30wt up front with the preload adjusted almost half way down. And I've put 25wt in the rears, with hardly any preload at all and it seems settled. Nice n plush over rough ground. I wouldn't have said they're aimed at the slow crawling world, they're supposed to travel over rough terrain at speeds. I run mine in a quarry fairly often and it's well suited the varying types of ground, looks good too while doing it. I intend to keep it set up with decent off-road suitable speeds in mind, got my crawler for going slow. Orignally just used the stock brushed motor with a different esc and 3S, reached decent speeds too, though it's now brushless (3800kv 3660) with 120a and 3S - it's fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Oh, I don't want to go slow-slow, I've got a scaler or two for that as well But rough terrain that my old Yeti would have happily scrambled and clambered over stops it in its tracks as it diffs out. It's no fun in the old railway cutting if you can't go full FOFF up the sides and launch it off the top! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Welcome to Outlaw ownership Geeze [emoji4]Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Had mine out again today but a few minutes in I could suddenly only get steering or throttle but not both which ended the fun too quickly Took it apart when I got home and found that the receiver was swimming in a small lake inside the receiver box. I knew it wasn't properly sealed but hadn't spotted the big hole facing front in the line of fire from the front wheel. Only hit a couple of smallish puddles too, didn't take it swimming! Dried it all out and have all the functions again so I've been lucky While I had stuff in pieces, I decided it was time to do something about the carp electrics so binned off the stock ESC for a 1060 hobbywing I had lying about then wasted half an evening playing hunt the servo for one I knew I had in stock only to finally find it in my eldest's latest Tamiya! With hindsight, can remember she asked me for it and even paid but as I didn't fit it, I forgot it got used will order up a 1501 or a bluebird. Then set about the back axle, gobbed it up with some blutak and that clay like grease the diff comes lubed with as an experiment. But found a couple of interesting things.The diff is 38/13 (same as Axial) and the four bolts look about right so it seems we've got HD gear options if we need them. And then had another experiment and think that can do a proper locker, think the axial SCX10 one will work. 90% sure. Only had a lunched RTR plastic one to play with but may order up a set of proper metal ones if I like how it runs on the blutack. Also looks like the rear links are Wraith lengths which opens up more options for upgrade back there 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Had mine out again today but a few minutes in I could suddenly only get steering or throttle but not both which ended the fun too quickly [emoji20] Took it apart when I got home and found that the receiver was swimming in a small lake inside the receiver box. I knew it wasn't properly sealed but hadn't spotted the big hole facing front in the line of fire from the front wheel. Only hit a couple of smallish puddles too, didn't take it swimming! Dried it all out and have all the functions again so I've been lucky [emoji3] While I had stuff in pieces, I decided it was time to do something about the carp electrics so binned off the stock ESC for a 1060 hobbywing I had lying about then wasted half an evening playing hunt the servo for one I knew I had in stock only to finally find it in my eldest's latest Tamiya! With hindsight, can remember she asked me for it and even paid but as I didn't fit it, I forgot it got used will order up a 1501 or a bluebird. Then set about the back axle, gobbed it up with some blutak and that clay like grease the diff comes lubed with as an experiment. But found a couple of interesting things.The diff is 38/13 (same as Axial) and the four bolts look about right so it seems we've got HD gear options if we need them. And then had another experiment and think that can do a proper locker, think the axial SCX10 one will work. 90% sure. Only had a lunched RTR plastic one to play with but may order up a set of proper metal ones if I like how it runs on the blutack. Also looks like the rear links are Wraith lengths which opens up more options for upgrade back there [emoji3 Nice bit of work, its always good to know alternativesSent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hi All I would like to replace the original motor with something with more speed I believe it is a 550 size so would a 540 fit ? Could anyone suggest a cheap motor please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Yep, a 540 would fit, just 10mm shorter than what's already inside. Could try a motor similar to what's already inside (around 15T) but change the esc to enable 3S lipo, much better! Or go brushless... I've etronix motors in the past on numerous cars with no problems, like anything - treat them with care and they'll last! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 A 15t 540 will be faster than a 15t 550 but will have less torque. Something like this would be a good starting point. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-method-pro-15-turn-motor/rc-car-products/369917 Change the ESC to one that will handle 3s. Cheap Chinese brushed ESCs can be had for £12.00 or less. A Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 would be a good choice. More expensive from MS but cheaper on eBay. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?search=1&search_string=Quicrun+1060 John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProBlitz Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 The HPI GT 550 Motor seems very good for the price i might get one when the stock burns out just cant find many specs about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Thanks very much for advice regarding motors I have repaired the new 320A chinese ESC so, I am using that now so just have to get a motor. I am not sure if I am going to go brushless so trying to keep the costs down so hoping to find a 2nd hand 10-15T brushed motor to try while I decide. I dont know about anyone else but a lot of the time I am unable to get on this forum, it just hangs like I cant connect to it, and other times like now its fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spaners Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 +1 for the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 esc got one in my NeXXt 3s and waterproof (for brushed motor) I went brushless in mine . Cost me 55quid for a motor/ESC combo (3s and waterproof) Supper quick now n wheelys like a mad thing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIENT-Reaktor-ESC-and-Motor-Combo-Set-3500kv-Sensorless-540-Size-1-10th-Scale-/262720335180?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 this is what I put in mine 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.