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FTX Outlaw Owners


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On 11/02/2018 at 12:40, Praet0r87 said:

 

Nah, these are pretty solid bashers. No Pro-Line Pro-MT, of course, but fairly decent!

 

The motor is 550 sized, but a 540 brushless is definitely an upgrade! In fact, ditch the standard motor, immediately!!

 

That system would be fine, but you'd need to run it 3s, as I think 2s would leave a lot to be desired.

 

550 and 540 have the same 36mm diametre.

Bugger.  My brushless is 43mm diameter. :crying:.  That's the brushed one like for speed? I'll be bashing it ( if I get one) on rocks , short grass steep peaty climbs etc. There's a 1395 ft high hill with Victorian quarry works a couple of miles from our house. The axxe & bad bug get stuck & it's frustrating:boredlook:.   I've been watching ultra 4 racing on the telly & fancy an rc one:ssh:

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39 minutes ago, Welsh40 said:

I've read above about locking the diffs. I understand the benefit off road/rock crawling but what benefits are you seeing on tarmac and gravel etc? Only asking as contemplating and wondering if worth while. 

 

Cheers

Locking the diffs can make it slide more on gravel etc if you like that kind of thing.  I locked the diff in my brushless mlst2 ( because they had the texture of mature cheese) .  It slid around well . But the drivetrain gave up due to added stress. The bluetack method is slightly less stressful on the drivetrain & removable.  Locking the front diff trebles the turning circle.

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Great thank you. It's for my son and more slide the better from his point of view. May give it a go as looks fairly straight forward to fit and cheap as chips. He's only got standard brushed setup with 2s so hopefully the stress won't be too excessive. 

 

Thanks again. 

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I'm going for the brushed one.  Our little un can play with it without risk of serious injury.  I've got a brushless summit that needs some work. But that hits 40+ mph. I've got scars on my legs from backflipping it up em . I've been researching the outlaw. I've got an ftx viper. It's really brittle.:boredlook:. But the outlaw seems to be nice & springy. Have a google about ultra 4 & king of the hammers.  I saw it on the telly & it got me thinking about the outlaw.

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8Just had a look, and wouldn't mind having a go. ?. My other son has got a maverick strada desert truck that looks similar to some of those, but useless over rocks. Great on the beach though! My third son has a ftx vantage, which is great on tarmac, but on the first run had a collision with the outlaw and snapped the front end of the vantage completely off. Fixed and one reinforced with aluminium. Added some to the Outlaw and maverick while is was at it. 

IMG_20180102_162037.jpg

IMG_20180218_220753.jpg

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Bugger :crying:. That's why I was dubious about getting the outlaw. My ftx viper is made from fine China like plastic. Good idea with the skid plate. It'll stop wear & tear on the plastic too

Edited by NOFX
Autocadrivel :/
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5 hours ago, NOFX said:

That's the brushed one like for speed?

 

I think the technical term for it is "zzzzzzzzz :asleep:"

 

Seriously, it's damn slow! However, a £30 GoolRC brushless system soon wakes it up! Although, I don't see why your slightly-bigger motor wouldn't fit... there's plenty of clearance.

Edited by Praet0r87
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Excellent.  The motor goes with a 120a esc.   I've got a few lipos lying about. So that's already sorted.  The new places I've found over the last couple of weeks are rocky & too rough for the trucks that're running.  I'll hit the buy button later ^_^

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@NOFX  I've got a Viper too, and to be fair - it's only had one part break (thanks to my nephew crashing into a stone wall with it), a suspension arm... and has even survived being raced offroad. The thing is tough, I'm thinking you've ended up with a duff one from the bunch by the sounds of it, which is a shame. I bought the Hooligan rally car (which has had no breakages at all) then the Outlaw going by the reliability of the Viper which I'd had for some time before. But I see where you're coming from, years ago I bought a Savage 25 - and it was a continuous replacement of parts (now bear in mind I'm not the kind of RC owner who subjects their cars to crazy jumps and makes bad landings etc). It tainted my view of HPI that's for sure, enough was enough so it was repaired and sold on. Compared to the other Sav's I knew of at the time and seen online etc I think I must've had a bad'n. Poor thing was plagued...    As for the Outlaw Brushed - as Praet' says above - it ain't the quickest thing off the mark. I ran mine stock (brushed) when new but with a 3S - notched up 34mph which I was impressed with. But was waiting for that puff of smoke from the motor. On 2S and brushed its performance is somewhat "tired". I'd plumb for a brushless setup, the difference is leagues apart, and on 2S will suit your son/daughter. 

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Had a quick crawl on some stuff in the living room using the stock battery.  Seems quite capable. The writing on the provided charger is so small I had to use a magnifying glass to figure out how long it'll take to charge.  6 hours to charge the 3000 mah nimh :boredlook:.    I've got a charger that'll charge it faster. But the last time I charged a nimh with it they got really hot & didn't hold a charge :ack:. Not sure if I charged em on nicd :huh:. The gool combo I put in my axxe is working flawlessly.  

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 That's twice the speed mine does on the 3000mah nimh  :crying:.   One for the outlaw gurus. Would a 4200 kv 4 pole & 120a esc be suitable? I've spent out for the no. But the above combo's in my kyosho axxe & could go into the outlaw. Tia :D

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So... The brushless motor fits. I drilled out the stock pinion to 5mm. Bodged it :boredlook:. Anyone running a 5mm bore pinion? If so. What one? Tia :D. Gotta order an aluminium motor mount too. Lost an ear on the epic tumble.  Also what's vital to change when going brushless? Again Tia.

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So... The brushless motor fits. I drilled out the stock pinion to 5mm. Bodged it :boredlook:. Anyone running a 5mm bore pinion? If so. What one? Tia [emoji3]. Gotta order an aluminium motor mount too. Lost an ear on the epic tumble.  Also what's vital to change when going brushless? Again Tia.
Make sure you get the metal rear drive shaft and when you do make sure you take it appart and locktight any screws that it has, don't ask me how i know...
Make and fit a rear anti roll bar, helps to stop the front wheel lift.
Stiffen up the suspension if you can this will help to stop roll overs in fast cornering but wont remove it completely.
If you intend to run 3s then you might want to get a heat sink for the motor, mine gets right warm on 3s.
Try and brace the rear shock towers as there is a lot of flex where the rear shocks mount.

Hope this helps?

Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

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Just ordered 2 stock 17t pinion , a 17t axial 17t pinion with a 5mm bore ( because I can't find out the sodding pitch :boredlook:) , an aluminium motor mount, steel rear cv.  & a couple of other bits from modelsport.  They should be here on Wednesday/ Thursday.  Hopefully in time for the snow :D. It's due to be -15°c here by the end of the week  

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