bosco72 Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Very Mad Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valyno Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 (edited) On 07/05/2017 at 14:25, Valyno said: Hi There, Got m Outlaw BL back (rear axle was broken and front cage hole was distorted..) I mounted my new aluminium rear axle today.. and it's great. However, like some others already told, the little screw is moving away with the vibrations.. Just ordered some Loctite 243 to stop it The BL version is really quick on 2S, I can't imagine what it's like with a 3S!! I juste ordered a new ESC and BL motor for my Brushed version: 1 x Hobbywing QUICRUN WP-10BL60 BL ESC1 x Etronix Photon 2.1 Sensorless 1/10 13R 2950Kv Motor And then we will race like hell with my son Hello, After some soldering to upgrade the Brushed version to Brushless, I finally got a chance to make some run with my "new" car. Works like a charm!! However, by default the ESC limits the throttle to 75% of the max power. I need to change that. Bad news: my son ran the Blue Brushless and hit a pole The right suspension bars are broken !! So, I need again to order some spare parts to repair the beast! Welcome to the world of RC cars I guess These little nasty cars really need a lot room to operate!! After checking the manual, the output power is not throttled, so it means that I have less power with my new brushless motor, identical with the stock one in the blue... I hope that it does not come from my soldering... Edited June 18, 2017 by Valyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Does anyone have the yeti I want to get the hot racing rear sway bar.i went to know if the rods are the same length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Here's my body set up I think it looks much better 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Braced the rear up bought extra battery holders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 ANNOYED ! Installed the upgraded drive shaft to my Outlaw. Took to park for a run out on the flat. Lasted five minutes before the screw clearly came loose causing the holding pin to fall off and one half of the drive shaft to drop off !!! Found the shaft after a lengthy search and many odd stares from dog walkers etc but no sign of the holding pin !!!! 1 Has anyone else experienced this ? 2. Can individual parts be bought for this drive shaft ? 3. Is thread lock the way way forward ? Ive emailed Modelsport where i Got it and asked for response but I'm not hopefully and will need to get another drive shaft now !!! Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) The pins have to be threadlocked to stop them coming out. Think everyone who has fitted the steel driveshaft has had to do this. Blue threadlock is good enough. Don't think you can buy the driveshaft bits individually. John Edited June 24, 2017 by johninderby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Cheers, I will threadlock all pins and screws. Actually had positive response from Model Sport and getting a replacement direct from manufacturer. Anyone know what size c-clip pliers to remove the c/E clip on the drive shaft. ? Very fiddly and awkward spent an hour searching the kitchen when one pinged off !!! Ta 47 minutes ago, johninderby said: The pins have to be threadlocked to stop them coming out. Think everyone who has fitted the steel driveshaft has had to do this. Blue threadlock is good enough. Don't think you can buy the driveshaft bits individually. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 I'd use a small flat head screwdriver on that circlip, have it pressed up in position on the clip and cover it with a rag/hankerchief or something so when it pings off you won't lose it. And when putting it back use small pointy nose pliers.. the main screw (holding the universal joint on to the shaft) came loose on mine the other day too, blob of threadlock and put it back in. good to go now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StroudSmithy Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 As my front wheel rolls back down the slope towards me and as I figure out which wheelnut I need to replace this seems as good a time as any to ask what sort of wheel setup have you guys used that looks the meanest and how easy are they to fit? I also thought I'd caused serious damage to something after it took a major hit but luckily I'd 'only' managed to get the rear suspension jammed up in the frame of the shell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 (edited) HPI Rock 8 beadlocks with clone IROK tyres on the blue shell and RC4WD stamped steel black beadlocks with the IROK clone tyres with the stock shell. John Edited June 25, 2017 by johninderby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Does anyone know the mm of front and rear shocks.i want to get g made shocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Not sure off the top of my head, I'm away at the moment too so can't measure. Just screw the top bolt and let the shock expand and relax, then measure the length between each rose joint. Guessing around 110mm for rears perhaps, and fronts probably 70 or 80mm....?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 I'll measure then after lunch. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 Front shocks are 95mm eye to eye and rears are 135mm eye to eye. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Thank u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Put the updated chassis on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 On 2017-6-24 at 10:24, Hegs44 said: ANNOYED ! Installed the upgraded drive shaft to my Outlaw. Took to park for a run out on the flat. Lasted five minutes before the screw clearly came loose causing the holding pin to fall off and one half of the drive shaft to drop off !!! Found the shaft after a lengthy search and many odd stares from dog walkers etc but no sign of the holding pin !!!! 1 Has anyone else experienced this ? 2. Can individual parts be bought for this drive shaft ? 3. Is thread lock the way way forward ? Ive emailed Modelsport where i Got it and asked for response but I'm not hopefully and will need to get another drive shaft now !!! Regards Hi everyone, first post. And the Outlaw (brushless) is my first RC adventure. And yes Heggs 44, same happened to me. Snapped plastic shaft, replaced with lovely metal one, screws came out and the shaft came apart. I've also stripped the spur gear (WHY PLASTIC???), and the front cup the drive shaft sits in has started wearing it's groove. Oh and I bent a shock. All the above, aside from snapping the original plastic drive shaft, was done after 20mins in a very rocky quarry. I've learnt that open cars like this and lots of loose 2inch stones don't really mix too well. Right now I waiting on a new pinion because despite being metal the teeth are slightly mangled after munching the spur. Overall, I love the car. My very experienced mates love it, and refer to it as the Jack Russell of RC cars. However, in my very limited experience it seems that the brushless version is either a touch too powerful, or too aggressively set up, for some of it's OE components. So far I've added some metal upgrades to the rear suspension and am experimenting with new wheels so I can run her fast and have her turn less like an oil tanker. Oh, and I've a light bar too which I'm going to mount under the roof, rather than on it, as I still flip the car fairly regularly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 On 2017-6-25 at 22:57, johninderby said: HPI Rock 8 beadlocks with clone IROK tyres on the blue shell and RC4WD stamped steel black beadlocks with the IROK clone tyres with the stock shell. John John I've read almost all of this thread and have followed your mods with interest, I'm up to page 25 actually, and it looks fantastic. Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 On 2017-6-17 at 00:25, LittleRichard said: I too did this some time ago, figured it made sense. Also made a sort of front strut brace, rear brace and 2 wide arms to help stiffen up the chassis as I think all that flex was eventually transferring to the gearbox and not helping things there. Removed (by terrible landing) the rear wheel (along with most body panels) and added the bugsta wheels and it's now incredibly controllable in the air and that's my wheel dilemma sorted. I guess these are far less bouncy and understeer-then-roll-y? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 On 2017-6-9 at 17:54, Hegs44 said: And the main drive shaft destroyed itself so it got the steel on. All good. Then today after 10 minutes on the flat !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yup. Been there. Plastic spur v metal pinion? I'm a novice yet that doesn't sound like a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Metal spur gear isn't always the best idea unless your running something really high powered. For normal use a plastic spur gear should last a long time. For most it's simply not an issue. Also metal to metal can wear rapidly if not perfectly set up. The plastic is more forgiving. There are different qualities of "plastic" gears though. Engineering plastic is quite tough. So don't worry about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) I have the metal drive shaft no problem with the screw but I will be making it shorter ,i emailed the company about a slipper and a few other parts but didn't get back yet.its a shame that they don't email back because it is a great truck but can be better.but I read that if u race rock racer the middle diff has to be locked anyway. I put the upgraded chassis looks nice never broke the stock but couldn't resist putting it on Edited June 29, 2017 by bosco72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Cheers John, I see what you're saying and since the two gears mesh based on their mounting positions - also plastic - I guess it would be an endless serious of upgrades. It's been very interesting hearing people's opinions on upgraded metal parts v plastic standard ones. And upgrading the steering motor.....hmmmm this is an hobby which just runs and runs isn't it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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