Redback Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Front goes airborne around 45-47mph, needs downforce Yes you will need to really tweak the setup for speed runs, will affect your race performance as will likely start to bottom out just lower it to the max and then limit the shock travel, maybe a 2nd set of speed run shocks that are rock solid. Also how big did the tires go when they ballooned, you might want to look into sct wheels that are a bit smaller and dont balloon, or 1/8th belted tires. Also would lock the diffs to stop the open diffs spinning the truck out as one wheel spins faster than the rest. Edited July 9, 2021 by Redback 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 12 minutes ago, Redback said: Also how big did the tires go when they ballooned Massive! 😂😂😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 I’ve done no mods to it for this so far other than put the big battery in 😂 Also it has a Torro bumper that I’m convinced at speed is just acting like a big scoop lifting the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, walkbythesea said: I’ve done no mods to it for this so far other than put the big battery in 😂 Also it has a Torro bumper that I’m convinced at speed is just acting like a big scoop lifting the front. Maybe but i think its unlikely to be going fast enough to have that much impact, it will mostly be down the the soft shocks,high ride height along with the ballooning tires. If you get a video you can usually see before they flip why by analyzing the footage. Either way 50+ from an outlaw is very good, they are hard enough to control at low speeds, well done! Edited July 9, 2021 by Redback 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUDFORCE Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 15 hours ago, walkbythesea said: Front goes airborne around 45-47mph, needs downforce Try (I believe) what is called setting the "rake" or basically make sure the front wheels are lower down then rear wheels, that way the whole car then acts a wing. I might help, if there is uneven gound or a bump or something it'll lift the front wheels anyway and wont help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 Well I sorted it out it was just like you said (and what.you reminded me ) the cup come loose even tho I had lockit on it mmm need to put bot more on lol . Anyway all 100% . And the new wheels and tyres are awesome. One thing on my rear axel (the adapters) iv taken the two screws out and pulled the adapter off put some grease in there (both sides) when I was putting all back together I spotted there is a fair bit of play between the end of the adapter and the small pin that goes thro the axle. So on further inspection I see my alloy hex are rubbing the adapters Is there a washer suppost to be there between the adapter and the hex .. yes /no . Also I put a washer and then put the wee pin in then the wheel and the wheel was so much secure. firm.turning So I was wondering as I'm moving the axle forward the thickness of the washer the end which should be in the diff is less will I damage the diff as I dont know how much the axle is in the diff I might just buy now adaptors incase mine are worn lol . What you think guys . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 Well just bought some new alloy adapters lol . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 They arrived (alloy adapters ) and they fit very well looks the mutts nuts . But the small pin that goes thro the shaft clips in to the hex is going to rub against the new adapter mmmmm so thought I'd put a washer on but wont fit my washers to thick . So anyway went out for a bash . Then my sons m8 turned up and was watching and chatting no paying attention and I hit the gate post (not hard .. about 5 to 10 mph and just tried to brake as well soon as I seen it was to hit ) now if completely cracked the entire front of the car body from left middle wing to right middle wing Looks.like it basically bent at both wings and front (grill ) bent forward under the bonnet . WASTED ...... Iv reinforced the shell as well .. The post hit the shell where the lights are between the wheel and bumper just bent in on itself. .. oooh Well . I'll ask the mrs for a new one . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Well it was a !!! NO !! so iv tried to reinforce the front with glue and more scrim tape but it seems as there a line across the bonnet from left to right wings that's got a crack in it or weak point so need to take out the roll cage again and try and reinforce the whole bonnet but cant go too thick or wont Be able to use the body pins . Or reinforce the top not underneath the body shell . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Got a pic of the shell is this the torro one or the outlaw one? For the lads outlaw i just put a clear shell over the old shell, doubeling them up seems to make them much stronger although the body is now twice as heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 18 hours ago, Redback said: Got a pic of the shell is this the torro one or the outlaw one? For the lads outlaw i just put a clear shell over the old shell, doubeling them up seems to make them much stronger although the body is now twice as heavy. It's the zorro body the new one I just bought . It just seems very weak across the whole bonnet left to right . . As when you push the !! Grill !! Part the topnof both wings fold which the bonnet bends downwards making the grill go under the body which cracked . I need to reinforce the whole top of the bonnet and wings .but then what's the next weak parts along . I think I'll try your idea another body on top another . Would /have you glued or reinforced between the bodys like a sandwich 1 body glue skrim tape 2 body.. As for the weight it help the car from rolling???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Iain .R said: It's the zorro body the new one I just bought . It just seems very weak across the whole bonnet left to right . . As when you push the !! Grill !! Part the topnof both wings fold which the bonnet bends downwards making the grill go under the body which cracked . I need to reinforce the whole top of the bonnet and wings .but then what's the next weak parts along . I think I'll try your idea another body on top another . Would /have you glued or reinforced between the bodys like a sandwich 1 body glue skrim tape 2 body.. As for the weight it help the car from rolling???? No i did try using body repair gunk to bond them and it didnt work, just doubling them up hes yet to break the font nose on the outlawbody, that part of the body is very weak. As for the torro ive seen the fonts get completely mushed from a few nocks, would reccomend backing any body with this tape, its used to make foam wings super strong, never had a body fail backed with this, i used it on the dr10 and thats always on its roof.https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/91685/ Makes bodies mostly bullet proof, super good glue doesnt peel off, quality stuff. Extra weight might cause more roll overs, its the lads truck so its usally rolling over haha. Edited July 17, 2021 by Redback 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 Cheer and I like this type of body too as it makes them looks like a real car . That a body with big wheels sticking out the sides . We I'm going to have to buy poss 2 new bodys to try this I'll have to be real nice to the mrs lol . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 Well went out for a bash friday found a very nice flat car park then no curb str8 down to a very lumpy jumpy field . So zooming about doing some 2 to 3 ft jumps on to grass lots room to go flat out had a bit of a tumble landed back on its wheels off it went again round the car park back to the grassy bit then starts to wobble and back end starts to try an over take the front awwww crap it's that grub screw come loose again. So drive it back to the car shell off wheel off see the grub no lockite with me but just tighten it up . Mmmm that's tight must be the back one as it was the front last time mmmm no both as tight ducks butt . So why is it doing that so just thinking and spins the front wheel and 10 secs later still spinning like I just spun it so has a look aaaagggghh my drive shaft is missing snapped off . It stamped off by the knuckle and as its sits in the cup its fell out wow it's done bigger harder jumps than that and crashes and not broken that part . .so I bought A new set . . So waiting for posty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenB Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 Hello All, I have a complete newbie question about the outlaw which has been asked many times before, sorry. I bought a brushed outlaw as my first proper rc car and it has been huge fun. Considering how much fun it was I didn't mind replacing the first motor. However as the temperature has gone up and grass has got longer I am just getting through motor's like nothing else. I am now on motor number 4 or 5. I'm thinking of giving up on brushed and going to brushless. However having read the threads I'm now in a complete knot and quite confused. I want brushless for longevity and reliability, is this reasonable?? I'm not fussed about a big speed increase because I've caused enough damage to the poor thing as standard. I also don't really want to move away from NIMH batteries, because i bought a few 5000 batteries for longer runs, also I'm a bit wary of lipo's (maybe unreasonably). I see that modelsport do a brushless upgrade, as do ftx but I don't really know what I'm looking at or whether I'm just opening up a can of worms. As I say sorry it's a much asked question but I'd appreciate any thoughts you may all have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 8 minutes ago, BenB said: Hello All, I have a complete newbie question about the outlaw which has been asked many times before, sorry. I bought a brushed outlaw as my first proper rc car and it has been huge fun. Considering how much fun it was I didn't mind replacing the first motor. However as the temperature has gone up and grass has got longer I am just getting through motor's like nothing else. I am now on motor number 4 or 5. I'm thinking of giving up on brushed and going to brushless. However having read the threads I'm now in a complete knot and quite confused. I want brushless for longevity and reliability, is this reasonable?? I'm not fussed about a big speed increase because I've caused enough damage to the poor thing as standard. I also don't really want to move away from NIMH batteries, because i bought a few 5000 batteries for longer runs, also I'm a bit wary of lipo's (maybe unreasonably). I see that modelsport do a brushless upgrade, as do ftx but I don't really know what I'm looking at or whether I'm just opening up a can of worms. As I say sorry it's a much asked question but I'd appreciate any thoughts you may all have. Hello and welcome. Outlaw is a motor eater, for best performance go for this setup. Hobbywing EZRUN Combo MAX10 SCT 3660SL 3200kv Brushless Motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/420924 .6 Module Helicopter Pinion, 5mm Bore, short boss https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/-6-module-helicopter-pinion-5mm-bore-short-boss Lipo will give you much longer run time as brushless will suck the 5000 nhim dry in 5 min. They are safe aslong as you treat them well and follow the guidelines, keep them in good shape etc. Alternativly if your not looking for mad speed, the brushless combo i have up for sale 65£ would be an upgrade just not as good as the one posted above. Enjoy and safe driving 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenB Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 11 minutes ago, Redback said: Hello and welcome. Outlaw is a motor eater, for best performance go for this setup. Hobbywing EZRUN Combo MAX10 SCT 3660SL 3200kv Brushless Motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/420924 .6 Module Helicopter Pinion, 5mm Bore, short boss https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/-6-module-helicopter-pinion-5mm-bore-short-boss Lipo will give you much longer run time as brushless will suck the 5000 nhim dry in 5 min. They are safe aslong as you treat them well and follow the guidelines, keep them in good shape etc. Alternativly if your not looking for mad speed, the brushless combo i have up for sale 65£ would be an upgrade just not as good as the one posted above. Enjoy and safe driving 🙂 Thankyou for the reply, and the welcome. I bought a zorro/ torro (also brushless) for my lad after I saw how much fun he was having with the outlaw, and I never got a look in with the outlaw. Interestingly the zorro torro doesn't seem to eat motors as readily (possibly due to smaller wheels, or my imagination) . I think I need to brace myself and convert both at the same time. Tell you what though they are soooo much fun despite the glitches. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 3 hours ago, BenB said: Thankyou for the reply, and the welcome. I bought a zorro/ torro (also brushless) for my lad after I saw how much fun he was having with the outlaw, and I never got a look in with the outlaw. Interestingly the zorro torro doesn't seem to eat motors as readily (possibly due to smaller wheels, or my imagination) . I think I need to brace myself and convert both at the same time. Tell you what though they are soooo much fun despite the glitches. Hi I went from both outlaws to zorros as sick of it rolling . And cogging (motor not strong enough to move big wheels .) Since iv swapped for zorro wheels and traxxs slash wheels I do not have cogging probs any more But do have a bit of damage on my undercarriage do to me lowering the body smaller wheels. I too was not keen on lipo batteys as I just bought 6 nimhs batterys too But I needed lipos so I toke the jump and wow I'm glad I did .. Are.you using 21 T motors or 15t motors . As I had 15t in mine and burned them out I used a 21t and I had no probs but then swapped to brushless . So couldn't say how long it last . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenB Posted July 26, 2021 Share Posted July 26, 2021 21 hours ago, Iain .R said: Hi I went from both outlaws to zorros as sick of it rolling . And cogging (motor not strong enough to move big wheels .) Since iv swapped for zorro wheels and traxxs slash wheels I do not have cogging probs any more But do have a bit of damage on my undercarriage do to me lowering the body smaller wheels. I too was not keen on lipo batteys as I just bought 6 nimhs batterys too But I needed lipos so I toke the jump and wow I'm glad I did .. Are.you using 21 T motors or 15t motors . As I had 15t in mine and burned them out I used a 21t and I had no probs but then swapped to brushless . So couldn't say how long it last . Still using the 15t at the moment. I'll have a look at the 21t though. I've realised that buying a bigger battery increases run time, which is a win, but reduces the life of the motor. I'm nearly getting through a motor per trip out. I'll also give lipos some proper thought. Thankyou for you thoughts Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Finally got round to putting the ebay parts into the lads outlaw, will not be buying cheap again, not really happy with the fitment or quality 😞 Any idea why my metal servo saver hits, its the same one everyone else uses for the VRX Vattera / Octane Also got some metal steering links, quality control 0, metal gasket pops right out not pinned or burred to hold the ball retainer and not even centered holes. We got these as steering became un-usable on the lads outlaw, found the real reason, wasnt running any bearings in the left turnbuckle they had disolved haha @walkbythesea You gone all metal after market parts any thoughts? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Where is the servo saver hitting? The noseplate? It’s not sitting down properly at all by the looks of things. Weird. I bought all my bits from AliExpress, but only because I didn’t want blue bits, too bling for me - I’ve not had any issues with any of the parts except for the steering arms which needed a wee bit of filing for a perfect fit, but only because I was being fussy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 9 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Where is the servo saver hitting? The noseplate? It’s not sitting down properly at all by the looks of things. Weird. I bought all my bits from AliExpress, but only because I didn’t want blue bits, too bling for me - I’ve not had any issues with any of the parts except for the steering arms which needed a wee bit of filing for a perfect fit, but only because I was being fussy. Its seated right, you can see it hitting the nose plate yep, going to have to grind out the nose plate a bit i guess, also no bushings with the middle steering bar that goes under the diff housing holes arnt big enough for any, atm its fitted without after time ill probably bore them out to fit the bushing. It unlike the other parts is an ftx part so wonder why they didnt put bushings in, when screwed down its to tight so needs a shim between the under arm and the servo saver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 9 minutes ago, Redback said: Its seated right, you can see it hitting the nose plate yep, going to have to grind out the nose plate a bit i guess, also no bushings with the middle steering bar that goes under the diff housing holes arnt big enough for any, atm its fitted without after time ill probably bore them out to fit the bushing. It unlike the other parts is an ftx part so wonder why they didnt put bushings in, when screwed down its to tight so needs a shim between the under arm and the servo saver. That was your error 😂 It’s a long known problem that the genuine part is substandard - my pattern part was already drilled for bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 35 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: That was your error 😂 It’s a long known problem that the genuine part is substandard - my pattern part was already drilled for bushes. Lol i must live under a rock, the offical part was cheaper than the ebay one, just cant win... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enduroexpert Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 Hello Just wandered if anyone has ever fit a cooling fan to a quicrun 1060 ESC..... Was thinking this may fit https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-xerun-competition-fan-2510sh-5v016a-for-2s-385873 but not sure how it would attach other than the possibility a couple of the screws could fit between the cooling strips, doesn't seem ideal though. Any thoughts much appreciated, or even a photo of what you have done with anything similar. Cheers Johnny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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