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FTX Outback Ranger


t2boats

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2 hours ago, mamodman said:

Hope they work out alright :thumbsup:

 

I hoped they would...but... from looking down into the wheel bolt, it appeared the thread went all the way down (as best as can be seen with a torch). As I was gradually lopping off a few mm from the bolt so it would fit and hold the wheel tight to the hub it eventually ran out of thread inside :ack:  Just not quite enough.. so I began my search for the correct size tap to cut further in. But can't find it (last seen in its set in my shed many moons ago). Can't find the die either to extend the thread along the stock stub axles. 

Anyhow, despite all that it's turns out that the wheels I've fitted have a wider offset than the stock rims. 6mm according to my calipers. So it's gained a 12mm track now and no need for the wider extension pieces! 

For the wider pieces to be fitted I'll have to have a good hunt for the tap n die set, will extend the thread further down the stub axle. 

I've done the usual free mods, same as what I did to my Ranger when I bought that. Body posts raised by two holes, bumpers moved further out by one hole, and 3mm cut off each shock tube to help it give better articulation. 

One thing to note with this particular Tundra is the performance of the FTX 3kg servo. It's absolutely naff!! Really sluggish one way. Nothing's overtight, wondering if it's perhaps something to do with it using the stock nimh battery..? The stock servo in my Ranger has been tip top and no need to change it yet (until

it breaks anyway), but such a contrast in performance considering it's the same model.

 

IMG_2271.JPG

IMG_2272.JPG

IMG_2273.JPG

Edited by t2boats
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As for the wheels I've fitted the stock FTX tyres to both Tundra and my Ranger, simply removed the foam inserts. Look better going over obstacles now and seems to give better grip. 

 

 

IMG_2257.JPG

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On 21/06/2017 at 20:25, Wabom1981 said:

Hello all, can anyone recommend a suitable 14t pinion for the standard 370 motor and where to purchase such beast? 

Having a little trouble finding one and getting confused about mod 0.5s and 0.6s???

any help is much appreciated

thanks

Adam. 

 

Hi Adam, (sorry just noticed your post!) I  don't think there's much scope to change the stock pinion as the motor can't be moved, so we're stuck with that size. Unless a curved channel is cut into the motor bracket to elongate the upper motor bolt hole..

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Hello t2boats, I wonder why you have such a difference between modes, as you say it is the same chassis, I was bought a Tundra, (yesterday) and have the Ranger, on a quick run up and down the road bouncing on and off curb, using standard battery all seemed fine. Really curious why you have the problem, one thing I did notice was that the Tundra needed to have steering adjusted. :unsure:

 

 

:wheelchair:

Edited by mamodman
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Not sure why Fred, you'd hope it would be the same performance but 'fraid not.. I'll have to make up an adapter to go from the small tamiya style esc connection to a Deans Lipo which I use and see if it improves. At the moment the car needs to move forwards for the servo to be able to steer left. Otherwise I'm really pleased with its overall looks of the blue shell and wheels combo.

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Hello guys, I had a similar problem with my steering to the extent it would be locked on full left (or right, can't remember now) until driven forward slightly, which was quite annoying, solved mine with an aluminium servo horn (plastic horn had huge amount of flex) and high tensile bolts on the steering linkage. Although I am running the powe HD 1501mg servo. IMG_6044.thumb.PNG.40aca34931508b9a9859e863235406ca.PNG

Since this picture I have moved the steering connection to the higher hole on the servo horn. 

Edited by Wabom1981
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1 hour ago, t2boats said:

 

Hi Adam, (sorry just noticed your post!) I  don't think there's much scope to change the stock pinion as the motor can't be moved, so we're stuck with that size. Unless a curved channel is cut into the motor bracket to elongate the upper motor bolt hole..

That's ok, no worries. I found this video on the YouTube that might be worth a look, starts talking about the pinion mod around the 8-9 minute mark. Not sure if it's worth a go?

 

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4 hours ago, Wabom1981 said:

That's ok, no worries. I found this video on the YouTube that might be worth a look, starts talking about the pinion mod around the 8-9 minute mark. Not sure if it's worth a go?

 

 

Yes I remember seeing that a while back now, it'll always help the motor out by lowering the gear ratio. To be honest I've never had the gear cover off on mine yet, I've always been impressed with how well it goes on the stock pinion. Never had the motor hot though, it's been mildly warm to touch but nothing more. I've got a 14t 48DP pinion here so could try it one day!

 

 

edit - as for the steering issue my sons Tundra has, I'd best have another look tomorrow when I get chance. Sit it on the floor and move the steering around, see what's bending/preventing things from moving. 

Edited by t2boats
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Had my sons Tundra out on the carpet this morning to see if anythihg can be done with the slow servo... so I ordered a short lead with a Deans male connection for the lipo and the small tamiya style female plug on the other. Upon plugging it in the wire in the small Tamiya on the esc plug went poof  :ack:   So feeling a bit peeved off thinking the esc might've gone as well it turns out that the lead I've bought is wired the wrong way (cue angry expletives!! And an email to the electrical seller)

 

just wired things in manually and thankfully the esc is not blown. Phew! I've rang Wheelspin and they've asked for the car to be sent back to solve the servo issue. Tempted to ring em again and say not to worry (extra hassle and sons birthday is imminent) and fit a waterproof servo I have here..

 

 

IMG_2340.JPG

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You were very very lucky that nothing worse happened - really pleased for you,

Does anyone know if the Temper 14 tooth pinion is a press on, only place I can get it is US and I am tempted to buy motor and pinion from W/Spin and pull it off Temper motor - anyone done this ?

 

 

:wheelchair:

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Just now, mamodman said:

You were very very lucky that nothing worse happened - really pleased for you,

Does anyone know if the Temper 14 tooth pinion is a press on, only place I can get it is US and I am tempted to buy motor and pinion from W/Spin and pull it off Temper motor - anyone done this ?

 

 

:wheelchair:

They are usually held on with a 2mm grub screw which seats into a flattened section of the motor shaft. I tried recently to remove my standard pinion on the outback only to find FTX had also used thread lock too, so might be worth expecting a small fight to be given Fred! Many need to put a little heat on to free the beast!

I still haven't gotten mine off yet so left it for now. 

 

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You know that doesn't surprise me, at all, on Ebay the US pinions look as though they are pressed on, NO grub screw, £6 + £10 + postage, buying motor and pinion from W/Spin about the same price £12.99 + pp going to work out the same

 

Fred

 

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5 hours ago, Wabom1981 said:

Whoa! That was lucky it didn't do any serious damage!! Especially using a lipo! 

 

 

Tell me about it...! I didn't even notice the wire colouration until after I'd plugged it in. How often do we check the colours of wires when connecting the battery to an esc in their one-way plugs?! I know I'll be doing that from now on :rolleyes:  Just glad the esc combo still works, the positive wire in the esc plug took the brunt of it. Sorted that out earlier. 

I've sent a message to the seller explaining things, he's no doubt got a whole stock full of them. And doesn't realise they're useless..

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I wonder if the seller will actually warn buyers, we get so used to relying on the one way plug, I hope he does :unsure:

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2 hours ago, mamodman said:

I wonder if the seller will actually warn buyers, we get so used to relying on the one way plug, I hope he does :unsure:

 

He hasn't replied yet, I thought he would have this afternoon... but if he doesn't then there's negative feedback going in and a stern email to eBay highlighting the possible dangers of that particular product where use with a Lipo is concerned as mentioned above... so they can get in touch with him then.

Otherwise - it was super-speedy delivery! I've had several items from his shop before with no problems, until this one. I made my last connection cable, I should've done the same on this occasion.

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2 hours ago, t2boats said:

He hasn't replied yet, I thought he would have this afternoon... but if he doesn't then there's negative feedback going in and a stern email to eBay highlighting the possible dangers of that particular product where use with a Lipo is concerned as mentioned above... so they can get in touch with him then.

 

I don't blame you in the slightest, as you say it is potentially very dangerous, especially if the person connecting it is new to the hobby, and I suppose even if you are experienced - you tend to trust the one way plug/socket, automatically.

 

 

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Just tried to drop a Trekka body onto my trucks - Ranger and Tundra, I thought all the chassises are the same, so all the bodies will fit straight on ! what an idiot :rain: even hacking the Trekka body - it will not work, back wheels catch, lighting wires would rub, short off making it into a type of monster truck it's a no no, I even bought white wheels :crying: so until I can work out a work round I have a bit cut up Trekka body. It seems you just can't take anything for granted, - just like your connectors, O well I pass this on in case anyone else falls into the same trap

 

 

:wheelchair: 

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No, it is the bottom edge of the bodies that need cutting so they don't catch but with the Trekka body it can't be done - it fits the body posts, but if you cut front and back to miss the bumper stalks, the corners catch, I'm going to try moving the bumpers 1 more hole forward, but it looks as though the body will rub on the lights wires

 

 

Fred

 

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I've cut 1/2 inch off rear of back wheel arch of Trekka body and about the same front and rear of body straight across -

it looks Okay but will try it out tonight if rain goes off and see how it works and let you know 

 

:wheelchair:

Edited by mamodman
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2 hours ago, mamodman said:

I've cut 1/2 inch off rear of back wheel arch of Trekka body and about the same front and rear of body straight across -

it looks Okay but will try it out tonight if rain goes off and see how it works and let you know 

 

:wheelchair:

 

Im surprised there's so much difference, who'd have thought eh! I haven't tried offering my sons Tundra up to my Ranger yet, I'm interested to see the difference though. I did notice that the body posts on the Tundra were set in exactly the same holes as my Ranger was. But after I'd snipped the shock tubing last year when I bought it the tyres would then catch the arches of the body. So up went the body by two holes and out went the bumpers by one hole each.

Spot on now!

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