.AJ. Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 If you use the alloy block mount then the ESC is solid and theres no way it’s moving, oh and the calibration sequence is wrong in the paperwork, ZTW made a vid that’s on YouTube showing how to do it correctly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 The Beast is in! Testing when possible, just not tonight. I've meshed the fan as I always do, stops it getting clogged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 Quick 10S run, pretty good, almost good enough to leave as is and just have 12S as last pack of the day. Only ran for five minutes, motor temp climbed from 25 to 34C, will need a proper run to see if the gearing's right or not. Acceleration good, just lacked top end, but 12S will almost certainly fix that, provided temps stay reasonable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kukynas Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 You can try higher punch setting and see if you like it more but I would assume 12S pack will fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 What gearing you on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 18/58, worked perfectly on the 520, so figured leave it for the 380, but up the Voltage. Sounds fine in my head, just need to test it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 Still not convinced on the mesh, will revisit this later. 15 minutes of speed passes on tarmac at 12S and temps were OK. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kukynas Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Looks good I think 15 minutes is reasonable, what’s the battery mah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Did you check the timing settings on the ESC? If my motor temps were 44oC after 15mins, I would be pretty happy 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 8000 Zippy bricks, they were only on 50% to start with, not checked since switching off, but I will. I haven't, but next time I'm tinkering I'll plug the card in and take a peek. I've also emailed Neu about their 430kv motor, just to see, you know. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 If you look closely at the pinion in the pic, I can't tell if it's just the blackening wearing or the early signs of pinion failure, any thoughts? The gap feels OK, but might be a micron too big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Looks like wear to me 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 Yeah, I'll have to try and tighten the gap very slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 After a bit of faffing about, I found some inserts that have closed the gap ever so slightly, hopefully that's that solved. Just checked the cells and they'd dropped from 50% to 29%, very impressed with that! Wanna run longer? Get that kv down below 500! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Liking the new ESC then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 The ESC is awesome, smooth power delivery, cool temps. The anti-spark is hit and miss, quite often the crack is similar to connecting 8 cells on the Castle XL2, but I'll live with it, not a deal breaker. Might get another once Modelsport have them back in stock. Definitely want to find a new, reliable source of low kv motors, the 380 won't last forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kukynas Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 it's really about tolerances and quality control, plenty of motors such as from Lehner, TP power etc which can withstand +40K rpm without much troubles and than not so good which fails even with 30K rpm, some brands aren't even offering higher revs because they know their motors won't survive I've seen Leopard motors failing but mainly due to one offs quality control rather than build or material quality as such so why limiting your motor kv if it's within the voltage range? not saying your is just as general comment So far I found basic rule, max voltage minus 20% is my limiting factor no matter kv i.e. if motor is capable of working with max 60V (14S) I know it'll be safe to run it on 50V (12S) , kv is just difference between max voltage and max rpm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 There's more to it though, the lower kv means more torque, but higher Voltage required for higher speeds. It's early days on this combo, but if it proves to be a cool runner, I'll look at upping the gearing. For now it seems to offer speed and runtime without the need for cooling off periods. Something I definitely don't like about the ESC is it gives no clue as to what cell count it's detected, so I'll be running alarms for the foreseeable future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Decided it was time to finally change the front centre CVD, four years old and has given its all. I've ordered the next replacement to sit in the spares box. I've also ordered new drive cups for the CD, I'll strip and rebuild that when they arrive. I was going to anyway, but just swap the cups front to rear so the wear goes in the opposite direction, but decided on new instead. Now, most of this platform is fairly straightforward to work on, but the boots for the CVDs are a joke! I hate them with a passion! Never once fitted one without it tearing somewhere! Oh, and some of the bolts were quite tight!? See the twist? That's all for today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Are they proper Losi boots? I’ve never ripped any on my B or my old T 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Yup, tried Losi, plus some other brands, all with the same result. Who makes the fancy diff cups you guys are using? Not sure I need it, but if they're any good, better than stock, I could be persuaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 The brake servo brace looks like a "must have", any special parts? What do I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 I’ve got lightened TLR ones on mine, but when they wear out I’ll change them for FLM 4ever cups, there’s a set for sale on here along with a Rock Armour servo brace 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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