X2; brushless.

[Tug]

I've wanted a 5ive for as long as they've been out, but they were always just out of my reach. I decided that this would be the year and that I'd get one somehow. To make me pull my finger out, I bought a conversion kit from a forum member. I figured this would force me to make it happen. Then a barely used X2 popped up on the forum and although I'm quite anti-clone, figured this might be the better option financially. 

 

So here it is; 

 

 

 

 

I always thought the stock KM shell was ugly, thankfully this one was wrapped before I got it. 

 

I'm not after bonkers speed, 40 will be fine. For me, getting the runtime above twenty minutes will be my main aim. 

 

Removing the engine and tank couldn't be simpler. Fitting the conversion kit wasn't taxing. 

 

I've had some brief runs in the street with a Leopard 58110, 780KV motor on 6S. Speed is respectable, temps reaching mid 40s (Celsius) after ten minutes. So not bad so far, but I'll be experimenting with different motors and voltages. 

[Tug]

As she came; 

 

 

 

Stripped and ready for action. 

 

 

The ESC I've chosen is the Hobbywing Max5. It's a good bit of kit, very smooth throttle action. Annoyingly, it doesn't do odd cell counts, not even manually! I'll live with this as the X2 is weighty and will require 8S to be fun. Hopefully, Hobbywing will release an update for odd cell counts. I have three motors to choose from, 780KV, 520KV and a 380KV. The 780KV will almost certainly run hot and drink too much juice. The 380 will only be used if I go 10S and above. So for now I'm pinning my hopes on the 520kv. 

 

The ESC is temporarily zip tied in, but will be bolted down eventually. 

 

 

The battery tray provided is very close to the pinion, but will suffice for now. A 3D printed option will be appreciated!

Edited April 14, 2016 by Tug

[Tug]

This is the motor mount; 

 

 

The centre ring of holes are the mounting holes I need. However, they're approximately 5.5mm, not 6mm, not 5mm, certainly not the 4mm that the motor uses. They're 5.5mm! This can cause the motor to shift should I start ramping hard. A solution was needed. 

 

For the first few test runs, I used cap head screws. Then realised that to stop any chance of the motor moving (it hadn't, I just thought I'd negate any risk), all I needed to do was switch to countersunk screws. I could of left them like this and they'd have stopped the motor moving; 

 

 

However, I decided I could do better than that, so out came the countersink bit and voilà! 

 

 

They now sit flat and look proper. 

 

The rub mark you can see is from the rear disc. More on that later. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 14, 2016 by Tug

[scatteh316]

How much all the electrics cost? I think 40mph will be easy tbh as I beat that with a G320 and 22t pinion.

[Tug]

This is the 520kv mounted up. I couldn't test it tonight as it got too late. 

 

[Tug]

3 minutes ago, scatteh316 said:

How much all the electrics cost? I think 40mph will be easy tbh as I beat that with a G320 and 22t pinion.

 

ESC and motor, approximately 400. Then there's cells and charger to consider. 

 

I'm sure I'll be content with 40.

 

By the way, these things drive themselves! So easy! 

[Tug]

Last post for tonight; these things are noisy! Seriously unsociable! 

[scatteh316]

The diffs been done on it matey

 

[Tug]

1 minute ago, scatteh316 said:

The diffs been done on it matey

 

 

Not yet, that's on my to do list, provided it stays. 

[Carpmart]

Did the Galaxy bill come it at sensible money Clive?

 

looks good, will watch this carefully... Looks like you've worked through the few teething issues... All ready for some fun now....  

[Tug]

6 hours ago, Carpmart said:

Did the Galaxy bill come it at sensible money Clive?

 

looks good, will watch this carefully... Looks like you've worked through the few teething issues... All ready for some fun now....  

 

It was a knackered driveshaft, amazing amount of vibration for something so simple. 250 fitted, which seemed reasonable. They had a cheaper version at 170 fitted, but didn't wanna risk it with a torquey turbo diesel. 

 

Yeah, a few niggles solved, more still to tackle. Confident it'll provide what I'm after. 

 

I'll try to remember to post all the problems I encounter. 

 

Did you see the My Laps info I posted? 

[scatteh316]

 I would be careful on what voltage you run the stock KM servo's at too... they will run on 7.4v but running that that voltage kills them quicker.

 

Stick to 6v for them

[Tug]

15 minutes ago, scatteh316 said:

 I would be careful on what voltage you run the stock KM servo's at too... they will run on 7.4v but running that that voltage kills them quicker.

 

Stick to 6v for them

 

Cheers for that, the built-in BEC is quite tuneable, but I'll keep it down to 6v.

[Carpmart]

1 hour ago, Tug said:

 

Did you see the My Laps info I posted? 

 

Id missed it, but have seen it now... Thanks mate!

[Tug]

1 hour ago, Carpmart said:

 

Id missed it, but have seen it now... Thanks mate!

 

Welcome. 

[Noj]

11 hours ago, scatteh316 said:

 

 

Argh!!!

 

Anyhoo, yes, 40mph plus is achievable, however, doing so with acceptable temps across packs, ESC and can is more tricky....

 

Looking forward to sharing info Mr Tug, the 520kv feels like a good option...we both know how hungry the 780kv can be...the 20min runtime is all important here....

[Tug]

Testing will have to wait, it's very wet darn sarf at the mo. 

[Wrighty8766]

Following 

[Tug]

32 minutes ago, Wrighty8766 said:

Following 

 

Cheers. I really should of shot some footage by now, anything would've done, just to show it on the move! Progress has halted as it's lashing down. I'll get back on it ASAP. 

[Wrighty8766]

 

Cheers. I really should of shot some footage by now, anything would've done, just to show it on the move! Progress has halted as it's lashing down. I'll get back on it ASAP. 

Damn you British weather.....I look forward to seeing some footage

I have temporarily given up even considering venturing out, it's been months now I have tried to concentrate on sprucing up my RC's but time and money haven't really allowed it.

[Tug]

4 minutes ago, Wrighty8766 said:

Damn you British weather.....I look forward to seeing some footage

I have temporarily given up even considering venturing out, it's been months now I have tried to concentrate on sprucing up my RC's but time and money haven't really allowed it.

 

I feel ya pain, but you gotta earn it before you can start spending it. 

 

To all, vids will be coming, even if they're just short crappy things just to show the testing stages. 

 

As it's slashing down, I'm off to tinker with another issue. 

[atom3624]

Looks like you've been enjoying the build.

Can't you grind the mount down a bit to avoid contact with the disc?

 

Al.

[Tug]

Yeah, as I said, "more on that later". Basically, I'd like to find a machine shop that could mill it down by one or two mm. Then I can run mechanical brakes and reduce the stress on the electrical system. 

[cookie666uk]

Search Google for local fabrication companies then turn up at there door asking for a favour. Expect 20 quid cash to pass hands....

[Tug]

That's what I was expecting, just got to find one now. Then I can start using the mechanical brakes instead of the motor. 

 

Now, the next item I'd like to address is tricky task of setting the mesh. When you slide the motor into position, you think you've set the mesh. So you tighten the two screws from underneath, then find the mesh is ridiculously tight. There follows several attempts until you've got it set right. I think the problem is a slight rise in the chassis from the centre out to the edge where the side pods attach. (I need to check this with a straight edge!) Basically, as you tighten the motor in to position, you're pulling the chassis completely flat against the flat side of the motor mount. This is why the motor moves slightly after you've set the mesh. I need to spend some time closely examining this to confirm, but that's what I think is happening at the moment. If I'm right, then I may need the chassis skimming slightly, just where the motor mount sits, to stop the flex during final tightening of the mount. 

 

Not sure if I've explained that correctly, but I'll try to get some time with it soon.