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optifuel?


martin34

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Hi guys.I used to run Byron's fuel before I stopped using nitro.I am now getting back into it but on a budget.Optifuel is prity cheap but is it any good?Thanks for any advice.

Edited by martin34
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optifuel, but I chose race 25% rather than the rtr, apparently race is better?

I have never used Optifuel ( I prefer some castor)...but the Race mix has a lower oil content than RTR....this will make it more powerful and easier to tune..

 

http://www.optifuel.co.uk/Catalogue/Products.aspx?pid=103&cat=85&title=OPTIFUEL%20for%20Nitro%20Cars 

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Race blend for me .... it's around 10% oil content, as opposed to the RTR Blend ( Also sold as HPI Power Fuel ) which is 15% oil.... and smokey as a smokey thing. Byrons is a marginally better fuel, but it's a fair bit pricier as for the same money you get a full 5 litres of Optifuel, rather than a US gallon of Byrons which is 3.8 litres.

 

As per Anthoop's link...just about all the manufacturers will list the compositions of their fuels if you Google it. Well worth doing!

 

I switched a while ago, and had no problems at all. I run all my big block motors on 25% Race blend

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Yeah, they don't mention any negatives using the race blend  over the rtr blend

 

 

 

Allan

Very smokey as nitro says, makes it harder to judge when it's tuned right as you usually tell by the smoke dying off meaning it's too lean, a good tune always has a small amount of smoke WoT.
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The much higher oil content of the RTR blend makes it more tolerant of a bad tune. Too lean, and the oil helps cushion the impact. If you can't tune a nitro motor at all, or are a complete beginner trying to learn, then it gives a wider margin for error. Sometimes, though, that can actually hide the fact you have a lean tune and isn't necessarily the best way to learn the signs of a lean tune. As BJM mentioned, RTR blend will still give a thick smoke trail even when very very lean. In my book, there are no downsides to the race blend, as it gives better performance and encourages you to learn to tune an engine correctly and to work from too rich towards ideal ... and then back it off a fraction !

 

To start with...I tuned engines by temperature, and that helped me to gauge what was what. Now I tune by ear...but I still use a temp gauge to spot when the motor has got up to temperature before I start tweaking. With a bit of practice, you soon tell the sound of a boggy over-rich engine and hear the change in exhaust note when you lean it out a fraction and the motor sounds crisp and sweet. You also get to know the frantic sound of an over-lean engine....which always makes me cringe when I hear it :)

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I think I agree with what you are saying there Nitroholic...to a certain extent anyway. :)

 

Too much oil makes tuning harder as the combustion always has too much oil, no matter how much fuel to air there is. It is exactly the same as a two stroke petrol engine...add too much oil and the plug is constantly fouled making for poor performance and running...and oily/smokey mess.

 

Having more oil does not necessarily (!) give you more protection....having castor oil gives you some added protection because it burns at a higher temperature than synthetic.

 

Of course in an ideal world we would not have any oil in the fuel at all....the oil is only there for lubrication....it adds nothing to the combustion process, only reduces its potential.

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Allan- If you do not mind the price then Byron is really the recommendation I would make...this thread originally was about someone asking if Opti was ok as they are wanting cheap fuel (personally I would recommend ModelTechnics DynaGlo if on a budget)...

 

Edit... and still would be very interested to know what Model Sports own fuel has in it...I know it is made by ModelTechnics but can not find any information.

 

Edit2... and whilst I am looking I notice a (US) gallon of 30% Byron....23 quid...

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/byron-race-3000-gen2-30-fuel-1-us-gallon/rc-car-products/29617 

Edited by Anthoop
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I do not know Nitroholic...it looks like they added some more info...it is 12% oil with syn/castor mix...could be EDL (MT own syn.) or Klotz...

 

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-professional-25-glow-fuel-1-gallon/rc-car-products/29350

 

Maybe I will try some next time.

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Allan- If you do not mind the price then Byron is really the recommendation I would make...this thread originally was about someone asking if Opti was ok as they are wanting cheap fuel (personally I would recommend ModelTechnics DynaGlo if on a budget)...

 

Edit... and still would be very interested to know what Model Sports own fuel has in it...I know it is made by ModelTechnics but can not find any information.

 

Edit2... and whilst I am looking I notice a (US) gallon of 30% Byron....23 quid...

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/byron-race-3000-gen2-30-fuel-1-us-gallon/rc-car-products/29617 

Hey, i might look into that then, im only using optifuel as that is what i got with my first used nitro so it has just been the case of sticking with what i know, i don't mind paying for a better quality if its better for the engine so ill look into byron aswell then, which percentage would suit big block 26-28 engines, 25 (like i've been using) or 30 that you've put a link up for?

 

 

 

Allan

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The 30 that I linked will be fine for most (probably all) larger engines...but as peace of mind run a couple of tanks and then remove the head....you are looking for signs of pitting on the top of the piston and inside the head button...if there are signs of pitting then you can add an extra 0.1mm head shim or if it has a normal glow plug then add an extra copper washer.

 

I will be having some of it at that price and will use it in .21 and .28 engines....I usually also use 25% but have used 30% before...as said if in doubt then just check after a few tanks...I have never needed to alter the engine to run 30%.

Edited by Anthoop
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Interesting & informative thread.  I've never really gone into the plus & minuses of different fuels, but have learned something now, after having a google about.  I've always used Byron Gen2 20%, which, hopefully is sufficient for my engine.

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