KizZ Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Hi all So before starting the engine I decided to watch the DVD that came with it on how to get started. Then I went down and put it on a platform so the wheels dont touch the ground. I filled the tank to the top with a bottle then removed the air filter to check the throttle valve so its 1/4 open and put it back on. I then pressed the primer button several times. After I did that I pulled the pull starter several times using quick short pulls but no joy, it was also kind of hard to pull so I decided it could be a flooded engine or a glow plug issue so I took out the glow plug and tested it in the igniter and it glowed red hot, I could also see that filter has absorbed some fuel . I then discharged the fuel by following the procedure in the manual then set the high speed needle to its basic setting. After all that I screwed the glow plug back on and tried starting it but without luck. I also heated the engine with a hairdrier until its too hot to touch bit still no luck. So what am I doing wrong fellas? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC Basher Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 the slide should only be open 1mm for idel not 1/4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry11 Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 have you checked the idel screw if you havn't the carb might be stuck at 1/4 it should be so turn that tiny screw under the air filter anti clock wise until you have the carb right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry11 Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 have you checked the idel screw if you havn't the carb might be stuck at 1/4 it should not be. So turn that tiny screw under the air filter anti clock wise until you have the carb right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexi Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 the slide should only be open 1mm for idel not 1/4 However opening it up a bit can help it start 1/4 open is possibly too much though, as when it does start, be prepared for it to rev a lot more than you are expecting As long as when you close the carb theres still a 1mm gap that's fine. I would close the carb so its at 1mm, turn the radio, and slow open the carb usi the radio trim. If you have the needles at base settings, then you could try and lean it out but by no more than an 1/8th of a turn at a time, and ideally, you dont want to lean very much at all, if you are still breaking it in. I don't know how rich the rush evo is at base settings, but I wouldn't go past 1/4th of a turn just to be safe. Persistance is the key, it sounds like you are doing everything right, so if you keep heating it, it should start eventually. Is this your first nitro? It took me half an hour to start my Savage up for the first time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KizZ Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Thanks. So from everything said I should try playing with the high/low speed needles and adjust the throttle valve to 1mm? I didn't have the time to try anything today. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliChance Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 i had problems like yours when i first tryed to start my rush evo, all i did was open the carb to about 1mm and just keep trying, i think some of my trouble was that i was scarede of pulling on the pull start to hard. Oli. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KizZ Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Just managed to get it started and let it empty a tank on static. Tested radio, works well too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliChance Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 good to hear mate their beasts when you get them going Oli. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 it should get ALOT easier to start but still may have troubles Anyway Keep trying it does work as u have already tested Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 when the engines new its very tight so it has to much compression making it hard to pull the starter (even when not flooded) slacken the glow plug of a bit to ease starting then once running tighten it back up you will find once its warmed up if you stall it it will start better this is because the sleeve on the piston has expanded if you over heat your engine though it will also be hard to start(lack of compression let it cool down) take your time running it in then lean it out and let it rip so long as you see smoke flat out your running ok(not to lean) marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 yeah martin's right there I find with the OS cause the OWB dead, once its started if it stall due to been cold still it starts up ALOT easier... But DO TAKE IT CAREFUL for the first 10 - 20 tanks AFTER break in the engine will STILL be tight Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KizZ Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Everything is good except the car moves slowly when at neutral. I tried the throttle trim but it still doesnt really close the carburetor. Are there any other adjustments? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy varley Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Everything is good except the car moves slowly when at neutral. I tried the throttle trim but it still doesnt really close the carburetor. Are there any other adjustments? Thanks have your tried seeing if the brake is on when at stand still as mine did that so i just altered the brake and it worked fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KizZ Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Is this it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sin Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 yeah screw that in a bit or add some fuel tubing before it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KizZ Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Thanks, that works nicely. There's some drag at neutral but I guess it's not a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sea118 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 actualy it is, thats a n00b and kinda stupid way - as the brakes are stopping your car moving at idle when it actually wants to - the clutch shoe's are clipping inside the clutch bell and are causing it to over heat which then leads to a prematuraly worn clutch and a melted spur - adjust the idle - its under the air filter - on twisty carbs itll be a block thing on the end that twists, with a flat head screw - just unscrew this slightly so its can untwist more if you get me on slidy carbs its under the air filter going inwards at an angle, also unscrew this slightly DO NOT ADJUST BRAKES TO STOP THE CAR MOVING AT IDLE!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Thanks, that works nicely. There's some drag at neutral but I guess it's not a problem Really... there should be NO drag at neutral During break-in there should be NO drag as for excess stress on the engine may cause problems Just release the screw so that u can adjust the arm to the position where the wheels can spin freely Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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