HYPER ST Pro - eShort Course Conversion Build 2015

[TMaxxDave]

I've just read the whole thread. This is epic. Love what your doing, and the write up for it. Big thumbs up from me.

Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk

[sputnik]

I've just read the whole thread. This is epic. Love what your doing, and the write up for it. Big thumbs up from me.

Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk

 

 

Appreciate the kind words my friend ...  still working out a few odds n ends and a few personal annoyances with a few small items.  Should be finished up soon!  Really need to get this done.

 

Need to finish this ... get my Hyper 7e conversion back together [ robbed the Castle system and RC Monster mount out of it temporarily ] ...

 

Then I need to do one of the three other Jammin X2 e truggy kits I have tucked away in boxes ...

 

Then the Twin Titan shall be brought back to life ...

 

 

And ummm ya .... I have a few nitro motors to sort out and break in :-)

 

Edited May 29, 2015 by sputnik

[Deafty]

Hi,  nice work

 

Going back to your 1st post: RE: diff leak.

 

You mentioned 'RTV' as a sealent.  Is this like high temp silicon used for sealing engines?

 

Is this suitable ?

 

Cheers.

Edited May 29, 2015 by Deafty

[sputnik]

Hi,  nice work

 

Going back to your 1st post: RE: diff leak.

 

You mentioned 'RTV' as a sealent.  Is this like high temp silicon used for sealing engines?

 

Is this suitable ?

 

Cheers.

 

Thank you ...

 

Sealant - I suspect that may work - but the stuff Im using is red and found at most general auto repair / parts stores here in the states ...  I dont think you need anything super fancy

[sputnik]

She's ALIVE!  Finally ... got power to the system and she bound right on up to the Futaba Tx/Spktrum module.

 

This Toro / SkyRC ESC and 1950KV XP8T Motor - after hours of soldering it all together - worked straight off the jump - so pleased about that and their quality of components [ so far - off road launches will be the true test ]

 

 

 

Not very proud of this rat's nest wiring here- after a few attempts of fussing with it Im sure I'll sort our a more dignified way to handle the paired 2S batter packs and subsequent wires.  Needed to get the thing paired up and test the arrangements.  Made a little note of the mods I did to the ESC, tray and the fact that when running 4S with pairs of 2S batteries - straps actually become an important issue to resolve.  Duoh!

 

I have eliminated the On/Off on all my castle combos as the switch inevitably becomes a point of failure and shut off after jumps or shorts out.  Cut it off, strip + / - wires back 1/4" or more - twist together, solder together, let cool and dip in Liquid Tape.  Issue resolved [ for me at least ]

 

 

 

I might also note - this is the first time ever Ive run these 2.0 / 3.x whatever wheels and tires.  They glued up - in a very straightforward manner.  I used the method that Ty Tessman shows in some of his training videos.  I think this is one of only 2 or 3 sets of tires I have with all closed cell foams.  All my tire combos are ancient!  I like these new sneakers on this gal ... Need ot get the sway bars on - they finally were located in a bin of spares.  Almost forgot about them...  I just keep piling on more weight - bolts nuts screws bits and plastic - oyyyy vayyyy ... this thing is gunna be a PIG if I dont put it on a harsh diet.

[sputnik]

Ok one of the final add ons - since Im not a real hard core short course guy - is this rear bumper.  the front and rear bumpers on these models - are like a 5th wheel to me ... all these dangly bits hanging off the front and rear has this old school buggy and truggy racer questioning sanity.  This rear bumper arrangement especially looks like a continual parts and wrench time EATER ... snap crakle Pop !  However; I figured Id need to give this bumper thing a solid go and be a "real" short course type guy.  So after trying a bunch of other stuff and reading till my cornea's were bleeding - I decided upon the SC8 rear bumper.  Not always easy to get.  Now after going all over the interwebz for them I discover Team Associated is just around the corner from me here in Southern California.  I knew they were in CA - just had no idea so close.

 

I have some of the stock SC8 wheels I was going to use - but I couldnt find the rings and hardware online.  Finally found a shop on net with them and got those and the rear bumper in hand.  I also went out, as mentioned in prior post and got that HEAT GUN - from home depot's paint dept .... and that will come into play here shortly ...

 

 

This rear bumper adventure is all custom fit and nothing is designed to go into stock ST potential mounting areas - so I fiddled with this silly thing for a LONG time before sorting these mounting points.  It became an additional advantage - I beleive ... to have used a FRONT ST Pro shocktower in the rear as well.  One I hadnt planned on when initially deciding to use it ... I could use the extra stock shock mount holes - to anchor this rear bumper!  When I first mounted up the bumper bits - they were contorted and out of whack, and caused the rear bumper to be at a poor angle pointed towards the ground.  So I needed to grind off and thin out the bumper mount plastics a bit [ at the top ]   and give the whole assembly a go with the HEAT GUN to twist and tweek it where I wanted it to finally fit.  I put the body on and off this truck like 150 times in this process - LOL.  OCD ?     Have a look ....  arrows are where I ground it thinner with the dremel.

 

Bolts are going thru stock shock mount holes.

 

 

 

This is a bit better shot of it all... the bottom of the rear bump plastic mount attaches at the bolt holes for the rear sway bar capture on the rear gearbox..... Be mindful of the length of the bolts used here.

 

 

 

 

this actually causes the mounting of whole assembly to be TOO HIGH to fit under the body correctly - as AE mounts those bottom points to the Hinge Pins on their vehicle.  Alas we dont have an SC8 now do we ?... so I had to turn  a portion of the SC8 Mount system upside down.  The upside down piece in this matrix is indicated by red arrows ...

 

 

... AND thats how that turned out ... Also of note here, this is after I warmed the plastic up with the heat gun and sort of MOLDED it into the location I desired.  I also used the heat to contort the parts into a better spot for bolting it all together.  I nthese pics I still dont have all the 3mm x 40mm bolts and nylock nuts holding it together.  So it was malleable from that standpoint.  When the hardware gets here it should bolt together almost like it was stock.  Damn glad I got that $25 heat gun at Home Depot.   Pleased so far - hopefully it doesnt too quickly turn into a hunk of mangled plastic shrapnel dangling off the back dragging a trench behind my truck ....

 

Fattening up this pig .. i think this added another pound!  not really - but sheesh ... oh well I dont do this gal any favors on the next and near final segment of this build ... the Body.  Its heavy too.

[sputnik]

The BODY shell ... I mentioned prior - Im not a skilled painter.  In fact I both suck and blow at this aspect of modeling.  My creative gene for paint schemes and executing a strategy on that = non existent.  Best thing I can do to prevent others from needed Air Sick bags is to plagurize a good looking shell.  So there - I admitted it ...   Here's the goal.  Straight up rippin' this look off.

 

 

 

The keen eye will note the uber-rookie shell trimming mistake I made - right off the bat.  Duoh!  Very displeased with self.  Here's the lid after 2 cans of rattle can by Tamiya - that ever imaginative color - Black.

 

 

Red arrows indicate where I trimmed to the wrong body line ... summmmbiscuit!

 

So my next brilliant idea - beacuse these badlands are a bit wider and a bit taller than the stock tires Associated runs on their trucks ... the rubber knobbies are gunna rub.  So to assist in paint life on the shell I got the brialliant idea to use some rubberized under coating.  Meh ... not one of my brightest.  1. its heavy as hell.  2. it dries very different than paint for shells.  3. makes a bloody mess when trying to remove masking  4. and finally - prolly wont do F-All to help protect anything.  Time will tell but tis appears to be jsut a thick rubbery layer of added BLUBBER for little to no purpose.  My vote - avoid.  If you have more ambitious paint scheme and desires - it will likey mess things up on masking removal.  I guess I can take solice in the fact I needed a good solid backing paint layer ?

 

 

Its pretty thick ... and goey.  I was hoping for a more hardened finish - for abrasion resistance.  Methinks the rubber bandlanlds are just gunna meet up with this soft and gooooey rubbery undercoating and have a grand old time together and shred off.

 

 

 

 

Its HEAVY... now to add stickers!  Im praying for patience ... We'll see if I can pull these off - now that I have not enough body shell to put the stickers in the right locations - due to my idiotic trimming.  After the decals go on the lid - a round off fully dressed shots - then some BASH video - pics.  Soooooo close!

[sputnik]

Ripped It Right The Hell Off ...  The Makita / Rockstar SC8 Trophy Truck .... Very unimaginitive - but sexy nonetheless [ IMHO ] - the painted stickered shell follows.  Ive found I not only am not a painter, Im a pretty mediocre at best sticker applicator.  Found yet another use for the new heat gun ... Helping me cinch down these decals AND assisting in getting out a metric F%$& - ton of air bubbles out of poorly applied decals.  Theres lots of slits with a fresh new hobby/razor knife to get the bubbles out. Hope they all stay hidden.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Noj]

All come together very nicely. Hope she runs as well as she looks...

[sputnik]

All come together very nicely. Hope she runs as well as she looks...

Many Thanks Noj ....

Looks like a front end Negative Camber adjustment is needed - unfortch ... I need new shorter front upper arm turnbuckles ... the size is a mystery yet.

Shocks running factory Hong Nor oils are horrid. Rebuild and fluid replacements needed.

[sputnik]

Loose ends ... a cage is on the to do list. Another member has mentioned it - so I thought Id post deetz for ya'll who would consider adding the cage. Its CLOSE, much closer than I thought to stock fitment Here's the pics.

Pretty Dang Close - to stock hole pattern mount points ...

FRONT:

REAR:

[sputnik]

Updates:

 

Sorry for the delay in videos.  Truth is - so far the actual running of this beast has been a BUST!  Hahahaha .... s'ok tho - I think ive got it sorted   Had I gone with my spare Castle 2200kv system vs. the recommended unit seen in pix from SkyRC/Toro - the story prolly would be different.  Ive managed to melt the ESC in just 2 packs of running.  4S pack at 50C did her in. 

 

Granted it got very warm - but all our cars were running warm that day - about 89*-95* F outside air temps - and the loose sandy dirt track we were on was conducive to excessive wheelspin and slip - my castle systems came off track hot too - theyre fine.  Im geared ok I think with this truck - stock Hyper 7 center spur at 47T and a 16T motor pinion.  Tires are smaller than buggy - Shortcourse 2.2/3.0 ...  I dont think im over geared at all - perhaps others can advise.  Is it possible to be undergeared - in the context of getting ESC too hot?  Personally I think its just a POS cheap chinese hunk of steaming excriment ESC and thats what happened.  Looks to me like a got a couple of over priced 1950Kv motors and some paperweights made of Asian dung disguised as 150A Speed Controllers for $150 USD.  meh.

 

The running - when it did run - truck had no ballz ... it drove "heavy heavy heavy" ... extreme NOSE Down attitude when airborn.  Will adjust shock oil weights and spring rates on all 4 corners.  Motor and battz felt "soft" as we say - like when stuff is rather warm and just not outputting fresh pack and cool motor - power.  Suspect that was from the garbage ESC that was prolly smoking like a freight train from the first lap - lol.  Can you tell I hate that stupid thing?  Motor felt very underpowered for the weight of the truck.

 

Not only that - but when I went to test things out and remove electronic bits - grub screw on pinion rounded out and crapped the bed.  Meh .. $13 USD 16T pinion down the crapper.  I jsut went Medieval on its Azz and got it off ...

 

 

 

 

 

Corrective actions in process:

 

Putting this pig on a DIET.

 

Shock rebuilds and spring rate testing

 

Starting with one of these ...

 

 

 

Then I will take the Center Brace system apart and lighten it on the drill press ... swiss cheese away some of the phat.

 

Perhaps go for a stock hyper 7 front diff vs the 8 gear steel cased spyders

 

Looking at front shock tower - and adding some holes to it strategically to remove some grams

 

Titanium screws

 

Considering relocating the RX box to the rear of vehicle somehow - to reduce nose weight.  Perhaps even forgo a BOX for that altogether.

 

May try and affix a sturdy lexan wing - a stubby lil one kinda like the LOSI Mini T stadiums have - just scaled up for 1/8th scale SC

 

Air Vents / Holes in body to add more airflow over components

 

 

Hoping the new Castle ESC mated to the motor + some of the above will cure the cars in air attitude and flight to make it more driveable and enjoyable - now its just a big phat endo machine - and not much fun. [ other than looking bad ass going on the flats ]
 

[Noj]

Unfortunate start...had a sky/toro can in a hyper ST I bought, 2350kv iirc, very underpowered on 4s and was sold on...

[sputnik]

Unfortunate start...had a sky/toro can in a hyper ST I bought, 2350kv iirc, very underpowered on 4s and was sold on...

 

 

Still holding out faith for this 1950KV motor.  Have it on good authority he is pushing around an all alum tmaxx rather well on 4S with a proper ESC and the 1950kv motor I have there.

[sputnik]

Update:

 

This part is a bust ...

 

 

The ST Pro style center braces are a slightly different design - and will not directly bolt up.  This will work - but requires some mods to the center brace [ which I may ultimately do.  It would save weight too .

[GorillaZilla]

Really good thread matey,  Love the pictoral and attention to detail build progression :-)

[sputnik]

Twinning ?  So Im much happier with these 1950KV motors from Sky RC / Toro in the truggy.  Plenty of power - run nice smooth and cool.  I need to work on my tires and gearing in the hyper st short course methinks.  Twin'd it with a new  [ to me ] scratch build of a Hing Nor X2 truggy + more kingheadz bling  Runing Castle Mamba Monster / MM2 - and these toro motors - burnt up the first toro 150A ESC [ hear their junky ]   My sons Hong Nor X2 crt is near identical - but with a castle 2200KV motor.

 

 

 

 

[sputnik]

So Ive got the ol Hyper ST Pro electric conversion - conversion to Short Course truck back on the bench ... the swap over to a Hyper 7L +4mm buggy chassis is almost done.

The ol ST Pro chassis is looking sad and lonely now ... Fear not - she shall become a fresh new ST Prop truggy run by Lipo Power ....

 

Got a new lid to spray for the buggy layout - SC10 style lid - hope it will fit right.

 

[capri-boy]

Great idea for shelving - almost like choose your poison, pull out and run.

[sputnik]

whooops - wrong thread :-)

Edited November 19, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

OK got most of it sorted now ... Done and ready to run.  Not much excited about the SC10 Rapter body - I rushed it and was frankly very impatient with the paint trimming and decal placements.  Not willing to expend the additional energy atm on this rig until after I take it out for a good solid bashing and see how it turns and flies.  Hoping this shorter than a truggy Hyper 7L chassis changes things for the better.  Here's how it is now.

 

 

 

 

 

With Chassis almost 100% flat on the deck - oversized tires still have enough clearance.  The lid does have to ride a little high tho' - still looks pretty good IMHO.

[capri-boy]

Looking fine!

 

My Hyper 7 based SCT will be finished tomorrow, nowhere near as much effort into doing it as you have done though, so much kudos for the work you've put in.  

[Nickarla]

I’m intrigued with the lower rear shock towers. How did the car feel/drive differently with the front towers on the back?

 

Now cue all the ‘Holy reserrection Batman’ posts, lol.

[sputnik]

Nickarla ... 

 

I found the cars suspension always worked well with the 16mm Big Bores ...  that aspect was never really an issue .. what was - was the in air characteristics caused by the weight displacement / chassis layout ... and NO WING.  I just couldnt get used to SC style vehicles "in air attitudes"  ... when jumped.  After driving buggies and truggies for so long - I just got frustrated with it.

[sputnik]

On 22/01/2019 at 11:36, Nickarla said:

I’m intrigued with the lower rear shock towers. How did the car feel/drive differently with the front towers on the back?

 

Now cue all the ‘Holy reserrection Batman’ posts, lol.

 

 

but i will say - its tuff aF