HYPER ST Pro - eShort Course Conversion Build 2015

[sputnik]

Starting from Scratch - from parts inventory of Hyper's 7/8 etc ....

 

Here's the start

 

 

 

First Order of business - is to build some more Hobao 8 Gear Spider Diffs.  Then the astute observer will note the front suspension is that of the Hyper SS.  Due to my disdain for the standard Hyper ST Pro [ Hyper 7 steering knuckles - noted for their ability to pull the king screws out of the aluminum knuckles and destroying them ] Ive decided to give this Hyper SS style suspension a go and see if we get a bit better durability.  At the onset Im a bit skeptical of their robustness and the metal of their CVD/Universals - so I may try another suspension system altogether [ LOSI 8ght Buggy ] - and as a last resort - run the Hyper 7 buggy "stuff".

 

Also to note - the ackerman rack for the Hyper 7 / 8 / ST Pro is NOT compatible with the stock Hyper SS steering turnbuckles and rod end design.  Improvisation is needed here.

 

Diffs first ...  then modification of the parts.

 

Body will be AE SC8 - pretty standard fare there ...

 

Tires - Proline Badlands 2.2/3.0

Wheels - ??? still looking

 

Still baffled by - what front and rear bumper system to try and run  ... Hyper 8SC ?  Still on the hunt - suggestions appreciated.

 

If anyone has the interest - they can peruse many of my other long ago RC builds - especially my custom race truggies from back in the day [ Tazer PRT ] at my old photobucket albums:  http://s27.photobucket.com/user/socalrc/library/?sort=3&page=1  [ Enjoy old school RC **** - some of them ]

 

 

Updated Build Parts List:

 

Chassis - Hyper ST Pro

Gearboxen - Hyper 7 / ST

Differentials - Hyper 8 Spider Meal cased diffs

Center Spur - 48T

F/R Diff - Ring Gear - Hobao Spider 6 hole - 43T

F/R Diff Pinion - Hobao 13T

Radio Tray - LOSI 8T

Servo Mount - Hyper ST

Rx Tray Box - Hong Nor XR conversion - Ultra LX2e

Motor Mount - Hobao Hyper SS buggy

Rear CNC Uprights - Hobao Hyper 9 - Ebay

Center Driveshaft - Hobao Hyper ST Pro

F/R Driveshafts - Hobao Hyper 7 / 8

Shocks - Hong Nor Jammin Big Bore 16mm

Rear Upper Camber Links - Mugen MBX5 buggy [ any will work - will change to Hyper 8 when they arrive ]

Captured Hing Pins - Front - Mugen MBX5/6  Rear  CEN Racing [ ebay ] large truck - front and rear hub lower arms Jammin buggy

 

Will keep updated as I add new stuff...

 

 

Thanks for watching

 

Sputty

Edited April 19, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

Hobao Spider Differentials

 

Ive literally built and rebuilt about a thousand OFNA / Hobao / Hong Nor diffs between all my cars - the custoemr project builds and racing 4 vehicles between my son and I over the years.  Never built the Spiders from Hobao before.  I think I know why now :-)  These things are tricky lil buggerz.  So I got my diff station setup and started cleaning stuff and sorting ...

 

 

 

 

So as I start putting these spider gizmos together I come to the realization there is no way to fill them without hte diff oils running out hte bottom six screw holes.  Design failure I think.  Well not exactly

 

 

ummm - dont give these go without this thing .... ^^^^^^^

 

 

Here it is installed on the bottom and its sole job is to plug the holes so diff fluid doesnt leak out ... smh!

Edited April 3, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

So after some dry fitment - and doing some reading and asking questions of those folks that are currently using these tedious spawn of satan to construct ... I find out they are noteable for a wretched thing - they leak - and no one I spoke with had a solution.  But me, I'm stubborn and ... ___________________  <------- [ your favorite adjhective there]

 

 

 

Diff Build Process Notes: Hoping this new adventure for me - semi documented here can help other folks sometime. Kinda posting as I learn to build these Spider Diffs - and trying to take some best practices from otehr styles of diffs over to these LEAKING SIEVES [ so Im told ] . Based on prior discussion of leaking issues - I am testing out using a bit more rtv in spots - to see if that will aid in drying up the problems a bit. Worked on some other diffs Ive done - so what they heck. Not a giant fan of RTV - and I suspect I will pay the price of cleaning it all off and out on next teardown - but dry diffs using all their fluid is kinda importante'. So here's what I did. First pic here is where I put small thin beads as best I could of RTV in RED, and copious amounts of Green SLIME = GREEN.

 

 

 

My objective was to aid the large o-ring gasket to seal better and in my past experiences Hyper diffs are known to leak fluid out of the screw holes - so I wanted RTV in the thread of the bottom screw holes - as well as where the bolts countersink into the spur and ring gear - the other main seepage point. I think this picture indicates partial mission accomplished. This little dooo hikkkey - is the whizbang Hobao Rubber Spider Diff Building Tool - at Nitrohouse.com part # OFN19346

 

 

Freshly built - I let these set for about 40-45 minutes in this state ... messy. Let the RTV setup more but not all the way dry - still pliable and can wipe off ... the Before Pics

 

 

Ring Gear and Case joint close up - squished out some - desired I think - let that setup and firm up and use a toothbrush to clean it up in 45 mins - full view shows the red RTV in the bolt hole threads as well.

 

 

^^ - After - and what Im calling - DONE ...

 

 

 

All in all - I found these spider diffs to be a real Beeeeyotch to work with and build - there are sooo many little moving parts all trying to go together at the same time - it gets tricky. I was hoping their durability and potential smoothness would make it all worth the efforts. Thats for an electric truck front diff so I used 30k weight Mugen oils - it wasnt all that smooth and buttery - like the center with much lighter oil. Will reserve judgment after I break em in and give em a good bash on 4S like we do. Hope this little pictorial escapade aids some of you other modelers - that was the intent.

[RCbutcher]

Great build mate I hope that stops them spiders leaking.

You said badlands sc tires tho wouldn't they be a little small plus sc tire walls collapse on turns and with that weight mayb more so.

These look sc but are buggy pack of 4

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/73219/

extra hard XTR compound

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/8117/

[ostewart]

DE racing do some 17mm hex SC wheels, and normal SC tyres fit. Its what I use on my blitz. But might be too small

Edited April 3, 2015 by ostewart

[sputnik]

RCButcher

 

thanks for the heads up on those wheels!  I will look for those and perhaps give them a go - Ive run something similar on a 1/8th buggy SC conversion build ... the badlands buggy tires have been a staple on my bashing buggies for a good while.  Perhaps the SC tires with some very firm foams may assist?  Im not sure the SC tires are THAT much smaller - perhaps they are - than 1/8th buggy - just their wheel bead and design of where the tire mounts is different ?  Will compare.  Great suggestions and I will look into these for sure. 

 

Thank you!

[sputnik]

DE racing do some 17mm hex SC wheels, and normal SC tyres fit. Its what I use on my blitz. But might be too small

 

 

Those where the ones - DE - that I saw at my LHS [ Nitrhouse.com ] and will try first ...

 

Seems my brother has my other wheels/tires at his place which I couldnt recall their name/make  - need to get them back.   OFNA made them as I recall.  They made them in chrome and in flat white - I got one of their last sets before they discontinued them ...  You jogged my aged and fading memory :-)  These wheels - the chrome ones - but imagine in all white [ not those tires + badlands ]

 

 

[ostewart]

On road buggy tires are the same size as SC tires. As I run those on my blitz

[Noj]

Watching this, as I have one and a half STs in bits in a box and considered the SC conversion too....

[sputnik]

Watching this, as I have one and a half STs in bits in a box and considered the SC conversion too....

 

 

Thanks for tuning in ...  I just finished up reading over your huge thread on the 5th scale flashlight build a few nights ago.  Awesome stuff.

[sputnik]

Found Em!  Here's those wheels I was referring to in white - I have badlands somewhere mounted on a set - they look "decent" - not stellare - here they are fresh outta the wrapper .... in between to sexy distractions ...

 

 

Sorry for hte lack up faster updates, but all that diff building took a while and decided to update the two race hyper 8's

 

 

 

 

More Hyper ST Pro Shortcourse update pics to follow soon :-)

[sputnik]

Well the first major hurdle has appeared and its a bummer ... the Hyper SS Buggy front suspension is a bust!  I will be scrapping it - parting it back out on ebay and using Hobao Hyper 8 buggy suspension and steering.  The issue I encountered was ... the Hyper SS chassis uses a different servo saver and ackerman slider bar design than Hyper 7 / 8 ....  the posts are narrower together and the turnbuckles and rod ends of the Hyper SS steering design is like a long arc'd paddle.  I had to try hyper 7 steering turnbuckles - as I couldnt re-design the server saver and ackerman bar on the hyper ST to be compatible.  After fussing with it for a couple of hours and trying many different combo's - it became obvious I would never get any meaningful steering throw out of ths combo.  Was hoping to update the truck with a bit newer up to date steering knuckle setup - but its a No Go - cuz No Steering Throw Bro! 

 

See the fist picture in this thread for the Hyper SS steering rod ends and turnbuckles - then see these for the hyper 7 comparisons. Also of note Im going for the Hobao Team Racer driver Jeremy Kortz mod to the hyper 8 back in the day - no front upper arms - just a beefy turnbuckle [ 5mm ] and rod ends.  Dude raced pretty balls out with it and it held up so I'll keep running with that to with the Hyper 8 arms and steering parts.

 

First I fitted up the diff housings with guts / and mounted the towers and other misc bit [ btw - i havent downloaded the manuals yet - lol ]

 

Hyper ST /  8  - servo saver and ackerman slider bar - hyper 7 steering rods and turnbuckles ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Assembled and after tinkering with adjustments for steering throw ...

 

 

Crappy pic - but I was over it and ****** at this point - hard to see - but the steering throw sucks and its got an obscene amount of nasty bump-steer with these parts on there.  Not gunna run.

 

[sputnik]

Removed the failed suspension attempt and moved onto the Losi Batt try and some wider mud/sideguards.  Found an olderthread on OFNA's forum from when the truck first was released on how gents were converting the diffs with Jammin X2 CRT and also using the Jammin X2 CRT sideguards - kinda nice so far - the guards - requires some custom drilling and fitment but nice - IMHO.  Had to trim off the nubs on hte guards where the stock 3mm bolts were to hold em on.  Drilled thru the plastic guards where the stock ST chassis holes were and drilled thru the chassis in 2 spots at the ends of the jammin guards.  used hardware as follows:  3mm x 8mm with Nylock nuts.  These allow very secure fitment and clearance underneath the Battery tray on the Left hand side so the battery tray isnt all KattyWompus ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally - I'll add here that several dudes trimmed off the arse end of their chassis in the day to lighten and race against Mugens and Jammins etc ... you could do this on this setup quite nicely with a dremel and some filing - and have it look pretty factory I suspect.  Since ther is the off chance I can convert back to Nitro - I will refrain though tempted ...  food for thought.

Edited April 11, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

OK  -more work done.  So I really wanted to get the arms front and rear suspension all finished up, however; the fitment of hte Hyper 8 arms etc is going to entail quite a bit more modifications than I had originally bargained for.  I will still use that suspension - mainly because Im loathe to suffer through using hte stock hyper 7 cast alumin front steering knuckles which are utter crap and all I seem to do with them is wrench on them all day when I go out for a solid bash.  I may resort to using Hyper 7 buggy suspension for this short course build ... but will exhaust all other feasible options first - than have to rely on the steering knuckles.  I may gove the Hyper 7 + jammin' super strong T-Bolt Kingpin steering knuckles a whirl.  They will work as Ive used them before in a pinch - its just a mother scratcher - to get them assembled on Hyper 7 22* C-hubs.

 

In the interim - I moved onto the radio tray - servo mount and RX compartment.  Im not a fan of an RX out in the open - so I wanted a solid enclosed compartment with an antennae post holder built in.  After looking at AE stuff - LOSI stuff ofna Hobao and Hong Nor jammin - I decided upon the Jammin rx box for the e-conversions for older X2 buggy and truggy.  Its also used on the Hong Nor / OFNA Ultra LX2e buggies.  Readily available on ebay here stateside.  I think RCWillpower has some parts for it too from hong kong - they ship anywhere cheaply as I recall ....   I had to cut up with a dremel the RX hosuing pretty good - eseentially I cut OFF the servo mount portion and left myself with just the RX housing when done.  My old dremel cr@pped the bed and I had to go get a new one - to finish - so it was a bit rougher than Id like to show but oh well.  There was a belt sander involed too - but not needed - had the dremel not croaked before a tript ot Home Depot.

 

So on with the pics - kinda boring stuff but hope you guys enjoy and get some ideas.  I hadnt seen another rx hosuing setup after hours of scanning others documented builds - that I fancied - so here's my go at it.

 

Stock ST servo mount plastics used ...

 

 

 

Layout and drilling - small drill bit - smaller than a 3mm screw - so it would bite into plastic - and it bites into the alum tray - 2 of these holes in the rx housing feed thru to the stock holes in the servo mount = win/win.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's another view - for those OCD typles like meeeeself ..

 

 

 

 

 

Not an exciting picture - but in real life this part turned out a bit better than expcted ... standard metal file and dremel - FTW.

 

 

OK - so - please NOTE:  the ORANGE motor mount shall NIOT remain orange and NO I wont be using blue bling for real mounting.  The hardware color scheme in this pictures is a bit schizophrenic I realize - and likely requires eye-bleach - but, its all a load of test fitments and lets me see all the areas where I need work and parts and bling hardware :-)  Please excuse the nasty color mixing..  Finished install views.

 

 

Different perspective.  Not too out of whack on CG - pushed it as far forward as I could and still get clearance with servo saver posts. If i get more than 5mm of chassis flex and uni rubs - i will belt sand dremel off more from the offending area of the RX box - may do that anyways.

 

 

 

For every ACTION - there is reaction I guess ... like this mount but it seems awkward that the stock foot isnt flush with the chassis pan.  Obviously with the ST's center brace plate installed it will never fit as intended.  I need to sort out somthing "other than" cutting off the foot of the motor mount - as if it was never machined in there  :-)  We shall see - more noodling that required.  On to the suspension arms.  This RX issue is done for now until new parts and stuff arrive.

 

 

 

Apologies if all this seems a bit over the top and redundant to other posts / build threads - after googleing for an eternity and searching for all the little issues and sizes and fitment questions - I was determined to document and pictorialize as much as I could for - the next guy who wants to build one of the baddest 8th scale RC's created ... :-)

 

Thanks again for watching.

 

Sputnik

[sputnik]

Sorry Gents  - appears theres a glitch with my image hosting - will sort shortly

[scarface87]

I can see them fine

[sputnik]

Thx scarface - got the account back online - exceeded bandwidth ...

[sputnik]

Time for anothe pic heavy update.  One of the big things I set out to do was to try and update the running suspension of this truck with something a bit lighter - but as durable as the Hyper 7 - tank-like arms.  The Hyper SS stuff was tried - to no avail and 2nd in line was the Hyper 8 - buggy ... because as a reminder this is going to be a Short Course model - as well as converted to electric.  Another issue is - that after years of running Hyper 7's in many varied formats, Ive grown agitated by the stock POT metal - cast steering knuckles and system of fastening them to the 22* C-hubs ... Its a sub par design IMHO - prone to easy breakage ... and stripped threads are also a nagging issue when out running - bash or trackside.

 

With that in mind - I set about to remove that issue.  The cnc knuckles are better - however; they too suffer from thread strip issue.  The whole idea of threading a bolt into an alum object under duress as these are, is just not smart.  One of the best alternatives to cure this I've found has been the Hong Nor Jammin C-Hubs - T-Bolt design.  Found on the CR X2 CRT - and Hong Nor Ultra LX2 ... first released on the Jammin buggy and truggys - ages ago.   Its a little funky to assemble at times - but a good alternative that Ive run in truck formats for ages - with much improved durability and life.  Cost effective too.

 

This set of pics is about what I chose NOT to do ... next post to follow will show what I ended up doing.  Hyper 8 / 8.5 stuff just wasnt going to work for my tastes - too much mods required and still it was just too funky.  I think the alternative I came to - is a better solution from the standpoint of parts availability, costs, ease of modification, in the field parts changes and replacement, and durability - long term.  Hyper - Hobao purists may feel blasphemed - but ...

 

Hyper 8 - What Not To Try - if your going this route ....  too much FUNK and dremeling and - meh .... First the H8 lower arms are sooooo wide - much mods required - Gear box - hing pin holders - lower arms etc....

 

 

 

 

After the hinge pin holder was trimmed - after the arms were trimmed a good bit - maybe too much for any real durability at the end of it ....

 

 

 

 

After all that - was just not "right"

 

 

 

 

 

Too many modified places - would suck to try and stock parts for this X 2 trucks - or even just one ...

 

 

So - to all those who may want to try or know why NOT to run the Hyper 8 stuff - here's what NOT to do.  My last fallback option with a twist is next - somewhat accomplishes the newer suspension mission and deals with the durability connundrum of the cast knuckle C-Hubs from Hobao.

Edited April 18, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

Now onto what was used - You guessed it ... Hyper 7 Tank arms - lower ... Hong Nor Jammin T-Bolt C-Hubs - currently using cast metals ones - which are cheap and are not very good METAL, but the T-bolt design negates the need for Uber Bad Ass CNC 7075 or better grade alum made knuckles.  However; I would invest in CNC versions of these - as the t bolt will make them be very durable and get you your $$$'s worth out of them.  Ive been thru 3 sets of Hyper 7 PCR knuckles at $70 a pair - now they are unbobtanium - so here we are.

 

First issue with the T-Bolt design is - they use nylocks on the outside of the plastic Hub Carrier - in this case 22* C-Hubs are being used.  Hyper 7 and Hyper 8 C-Hubs were not designed for this - so unless you mod the C-Hub there's no real way to thread the nylock on the the end of the Jammin T-bolt.  Took a steel dremel tool bit and honed the stock Hyper 7 22* hubs with a tad bit of precision on the better looking one - just enough to clearance for a nylock and a tool to go on it and NOT remove too much meat of the part for durability - took me about 10 minutes to grind out both.  Not much material needs removal.  Both of these are done....

 

 

And ... that for now is really the only mod out fo the ordinary that needs doing with this method :-)  far less parts need touhing and modding  - much better.

 

 

View from other side

 

 

 

Lets check out articulations up and down and steering throw

 

 

 

Also as of note here - top down view ... The Jeremy Kort style mod - after Hobao racer of old who first raced with it in bigger races.  Another peeve of mine with the H7 suspension is the upper arms fold like tacos and bent upper arm turnbucles - will see if this improves that issue - can alway go back to stock style ...  Feels stout enough.

 

 

 

Getting soooo much closer now to being a run-able truck - rear suspension should be a snap ...

 

 

Ya know - if its not one thing its another - a few niggles and nags here and there - in search of better rod ends and swivels - migen stuff is sweet - but requires a lot of clearance and room to run - will try Ive got gobs of it ....  pics and details on that for next time or after next time - rear arms may be next ....

 

 

 

EDIT:  Ummm yeah - dont assemble and anotate images at 2 am after wrenching all day and being DUMB ... that last pic - above.  Disregard.  I sorted it.  I obviously - for some stupid reason - mounted the steering rod end that attaches to the steering knuckles - under the knuckle arm - like a Dumb-A$$.  Moved thos to the top where they belong and viola - as it should be - all is well.  Full droop and travel - and bumpsteer at a minimum.  Sorry .... DUOH!

Edited April 19, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

Ummm yeah - dont assemble and annotate images at 2 am after wrenching all day and being DUMB ... that last pic - above.  Disregard.  I sorted it.  I obviously - for some stupid reason - mounted the steering rod end that attaches to the steering knuckles - under the knuckle arm - like a Dumb-A$$.  Moved thos to the top where they belong and viola - as it should be - all is well.  Full droop and travel - and bumpsteer at a minimum.  Sorry .... DUOH!

 

 

 

Further updates:  Images and work will be on a a brief pause as I await parts.  Also after fitment of the rear shocks - Hyper ST pro rear tower with Hong Nor / Jammin 16 mm Big Bore Rear shocks - I did NOT like the down travel at all.  So Im going to take a play out of Bez's book and run FRONT ST PRo tower on rear end also.

 

SC8 Clear Blank Shell - ordered

Hobao Hyper ST Pro front shock tower - for rear

Hobao Hyper ST Front body mount kit - x 2 - for front and rear now

T-Bones front and rear bumper kits for both a hyper 7 and hyper st pro - on order

Ebay for a Traxxas Slash bumper kit

Ebay for a Traxxas Slayer bumper kit

Need to finish building some diffs - 8 gear spiders and put it in the rear.

 

 

Changes:

 

Im going to consider a Traxxas Rx box instead of the Hing Nor Im using - due to clearance issues with the center drive shafts - PITA when I want to remove center diff ....

 

Front shock tower on rear with body mounts.

 

Gunna make some old 9.5 Pro buggy shortcourse builds now too - with SC10 1/10th scale lids on them - ive got a lot o sexy older parts for the 9.5 that should make some awesome OLD School SC Bashers ....

Edited April 19, 2015 by sputnik

[sputnik]

Ok well after waiting for a good batch o parts to arrive - I made a few more changes - and actually built and upgraded a 3 other RC's [ one I sold to a mate 1/8th buggy short course conversion ]

 

So this arrived just the other day ... I liked it so I got another one too ... yeaaahhhhhh for soldering [ Im totally new to soldering stuff - as I just had the shops do it in the past ]

 

Juicy little SkyRC - Toro 150A + 1950KV X8PT motor - should be ample to push around this buggy like rig on 4S ...

 

 

Only reason I make a fuss over this is because I suck sooooo badly at soldering and electric stuff - this turned out decent for the first time!!!   Getting setup for a solder marathon ...

 

All the stuff I had to buy to be effective at Electric stuff - makes me almost miss nitro :-)  I also have a new appreciation for hte cost of Castle and being plug in play - add juice and run ...

 

Powerful iron, helping hands thing - bullets, deans, shrink ... this that and the other  ... got a decent turn out and when powered up - by god she worked!

 

 

 

Even the Deans - which I traditionally mutilate - turned out decently [ for me ]

 

 

 

Theres the brains and powerplant ...  being constructed.  Scored off ebay for $147 USD - shipped in 3 days.

[sputnik]

Apparently - Orange is hte new black or some such nonsense - not sure what this industry wide Orange fetish is as of late - but ... not my fav.  Here it is installed

 

 

More Orange madness ...

 

 

 

Next order of business - was the Team Associated SC8 Clear body shell - again an ebay score.  Wanted to do a decent job on mounting these lids - so I also opted to put Front shock tower on the rear and the nifty little stock body mount from hobao - front and rear ... more on that later -  Here;s the clear shell and the new sneakers she'll be wearing.

 

 

She'll be sporting a shiny solid black paint scheme [ cuz Im a ***** painter and schemer of such ] - and accessorized by the Rockstar / Makita look ...

 

 

 

 

Ok - so I mentioned earlier - more discussion on the Front ST Pro shock tower also run in the rear.  I found that with the Jammin 16 mm Big Bore rear shcoks - I didnt get enough shock down travel with the Hobao St Pro Shock tower - there are very few holes for adjustments.  Additionally I was at a loss for body mount hardware and methods - so it hit me - just run one of those stout as hell front towers in the rear and get another stock front body mount kit.  Its almost as if it was designed for Short Course lids now :-)  In order to get the shocks to work with the stock ST Pro Rear tower - I could grind away on the lower arms where the shock mount hole were to clearnce more angle so the arms could fall to full length of shock travel from the arms inner most mounting hole.  Actually did that on my Hyper 7 buggy where I used the ST Pro shock towers ....   also added a Hyper 7 rear bumper to this ... and a T Bones Hyper 7 rear delrin skide plate.

 

Dat Azzzz ....

 

 

Well theres that ...   Next up - the front bumper.  New to this short course look and fiddling with the accessories - so I roughed this up a bit over the last several days ...

[sputnik]

Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers .... blah Blah Blah ...

 

The Stock ST Pro front bumper was not near long enough to look scale or part of the moti'f of 1/8th scale Short Course - so after much reading and analysys and hours of trial fitment and destroying 4 or 5 brands of bumper kits ... I got this to work ... Stock ST Pro bumper [ not much left of it actually ] + an RPM aftermarket bumper kit for the SC10 1/10th scale truck.

 

Here's how it ended up ...

 

 

 

 

A little rough down here - but I intend to blend and taper it a bit better when I have more time.  May get a new one and finesse' that from scratch - we'll see - so far so good.  feels rather stout.

 

 

After hours and hours of fussing about with this part - I finally settled on this position.  Bear in mind this is all rather custom.  PITA really.  Ive also read of anther guy on RC Tech who uses a quality heat gun and reforms the angle of the dangle and bends these to a better look and fit - may be time for me to get that heat gun Ive alsways wanted and had 5 billion instances where it would have been rather handy!

 

 

Please note:  the body shell is still really rough cut - just enough to get paint down on it and fit this bumper - more cutting and masking and sanding with a dremel on it before the spray ... however; this angle of the bumper looks pretty solid.

 

 

Thats all for now ... so close to run time I can almost taste it ....

Edited January 2, 2016 by sputnik

[RCbutcher]

There's a brand new Sc8 roll cage somewhere new in packet and it's cheap. I'm not sure where I saw it now. It would epic of that for this.

I know the sc8 cage Fits the apache sc perfect no mods ther body posts are identically positioned. There a video.

I know the sc8 shell is fairly weak hopefully the cage ( or shoo goo ) could help with that tho.

I would have tried the hpi apache sc shell I think it seems stronger too. It's ther for future choice tho.

It's a great build top marks I couldn't follow most as it was over my head lol. I do want to get into the engineering at a basic level soon tho.

Look forward to see more mate. I want an sc based proven buggy too. But chose the easy option and got a trx rally.

But thought about the apache sc too it's a 1/8 sc based on the vorza I was offerd an amazing condition for 200 but let it go and got my rally. Mayb next time.

It would have to be 6s lipo all time tho lol.

Reading about your hub issues reminded me about the ultimate slash hubs I wanted but didn't I thought ide check the bargain deal was still on and impulse took over. So now ill have cnc hubs too. Thanks.

Edited May 25, 2015 by RCbutcher

[sputnik]

RCButcher - thanks for the tips - lots of HPI product around these parts ... will seek out cages and see what I find.  Im a fan of them ... fact is Id rather run just a dressed up cage vs. lexan lid on most all my trucks.  I tire of buying, trimming and painting Lexan ... I'd like ot fashion a lightweight but stout Plastic and Carbon Fiber cage - designed to look like the Losi DB XL or the Axial Yetis - to be a universal fit for most 1/8ths ...

 

Looks like the Team Associated SC8 cages are unobtainium around here in the states ...   if you have a source for them be sure to let me know