Popular Post smeghead28 Posted March 12, 2015 Popular Post Share Posted March 12, 2015 Well after two half days of work we have this. Had to do the size comparrison shot Despite it being a build I didn't enjoy it that much,the thing is so big and heavy it starts to be a pain to move it around to do the build itself. Some areas that were a nightmare were getting the rubber boots over the drive shafts,trying to get the tyres onto the wheels and getting some of the body pins in that hold the roll cage on,many sore fingers after this build. Still has radio gear,killswitch,throttle servo to buy and be fitted,hopefully I can get them in without taking it apart again too much. Need to decide on a colour at some point as well. In hindsight I should have bought the RTR version,opps! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 I think you have to disassemble the engine for the kill switch lol. I have a switchblade ready to fit but want to mesh it at the same time so nothing has been done lol. They are too big really it's more hassle than I wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark35 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Sore fingers will be a distant memory when you get that beastie out, the 1/8 wont get a look in. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderwolf Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 you work out a technique to make most of that easier, the roll cage body pins for example, i never use the spacers for it, nor do i use the plastic chassis protector or side pods, because they get annoying.i don't use the rubber boots on the axles either, they rip apart too easily so i just run them dry and open. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 The killswitch will be okay as the car doesn't have to come apart that much. Previously fitted one to a FG so know how it goes in. Biggest pain I can see is there is a brace between the rear shock towers that might have to be removed to get the cage off as it runs underneath it and I dont know if the cage will pass under it. Also I have noticed the rear shocks seem to "jam" after about 10minures or so when the car is stood still. It will compress but doesn't come back up again. You can pump the back end up and down a bit and then the suspension works fine,it seems like the oil settles into the bottom of the shock body when it is stood and it takes a few pumps to get the oil to move for the suspension to work correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Fit an H bomb cage part, allows you to remove the front of the cage without having to take the shock towers and brace apart. I'd check the shocks, if built correctly, they should travel smoothly... Assuming you built them with stock o rings and no green slime? Fitted DS red o rings onto ours three years ago, never had a leak or issues since building them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 The whole shock thing is odd. They work fine once they have been compressed a few times. Used the DS O rings and I have no leaks and off the car they are okay,cant see or feel any binding on the rear arms,they just flop down once the shocks are off. H bomb looks a good way to go,would at least make is easier to change the spark plug over. As it is I have split the back part with the engine on from the main chassis as one lump so I can install the killswitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) Well had to fiddle,wasn't quite happy with the rear shocks so took them off again. Topped them up from the top rather than the bottom as per the instructions,overfilled them slightly,loosely fitted the top cap,pushed the piston up to remove excess oil and screwed the top cap shut. End result,much better than they were. Maybe not the best idea but I have also removed the rubber shock shaft protectors,they were bunching up when the shock compressed and seemed to be impeding the movement. Between those two things the whole set up seems to work even better than it did before Edited March 14, 2015 by smeghead28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderwolf Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 doing the shocks is a fine art, doing it from the bottom or the top doesn't really matter, result is the same if done right either way. if your rubber boots are bunching up make sure you have put the bottom part over the rod end, make sure it dry too or they slip off, not running them lessens how long you o-rings in the bottom last quite a bit i found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 I noticed last night that I had the wrong outer part of the beadlocks on the wrong wheels. Had the rear ones on the front and fronts on the rear There was an amendmant sheet as part of the instructions but that bit wasn't very clear as to what it was getting at. It wasn't till I was looking at some pictures online last night that I noticed it. Hopefully I will get the kill switch in the next couple of days so I can start to get it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderwolf Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I noticed last night that I had the wrong outer part of the beadlocks on the wrong wheels. Had the rear ones on the front and fronts on the rear wait, what? the outer bead locks are all the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbs10 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 wait, what? the outer bead locks are all the same? yes but the inners and outers arnt hes put the inners facing out on the rears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 The inners are all the same but the outers are different front to rear. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-baja-5b-2.0-rtr-black-/rc-car-products/383090 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderwolf Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) yes but the inners and outers arnt hes put the inners facing out on the rears which is impossible as the outer bead locks have a smaller diameter and therefore physically won't fit. The inners are all the same but the outers are different front to rear. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-baja-5b-2.0-rtr-black-/rc-car-products/383090 since when did that happen.... makes no difference, stock beadlocks and wheels are crap on both version but still... Edited March 15, 2015 by Thunderwolf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 The one I have has a few other new bits as well. If you look here http://rc-car-online.de/shop/en/products/hpi_baja_5b_ss-hpi-baja-5b-ss-version-2015-kit.html The modification shown are the ones I have on my version although the beadlocks aren't shown. And yes,the stock ones aren't very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 This is finished although yet to be run,been a bit down this last week and not been out with it yet. Killer Bee failsafe fitted and seem to be working okay although only a proper test will tell Installed a Power HD 20kg for throttle/brake,maybe overkill but it wasn't that expensive. Also made my own version of the H Bomb cage removal section with some 12mm tube,I couldn't use the original H Bomb as my exhaust sticks up above the cage so it wouldn't have worked,luckily I found that out before I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 Shouldn't loose this one easily It is MUCH brighter in real life. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Got a chrome snail going on Got the silenced version,hopefully it will be quieter than the stock SS exhaust. Only slight issue was the washer supplied to go onto the bottom bracket was small enought to drop through the slot,luckily had a repair washer that was the right size,other than that fitting it was no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Had the first run with this set up yesterday afternoon and I am glad I got the silenced version as it is still pretty loud! It does sound better than the stock pipe though,at idle and at speed. There is a definate performance improvement as from a stand still it lifts the front wheels about an inch off the ground for the first 10ft or so. Just need to stop the leak from the exhaust that I seem to have at the moment,other than that all is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Pretty much anything is an improvement over the SS pipe, for both noise and power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatout! Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Its wheeling coz your rear shock are set a bit hard, ok for tarmac but off road,.....I wouldn't lol! Itll roll a lot, and it wheelies because the powers not getting soaked up in the springs, thats why its poping wheeliesssss kidda, good thou wind the collar up on the shocks to about 12mm to 15mm from the top of the thred and that should be ok for a bit of off roading Pretty much anything is an improvement over the SS pipe, for both noise and power you still up kidda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyknight Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 a few of us are still awake lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatout! Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 The wheeling isn't much and only lasts a few feet when puliing away from a standstill. At the moment there is only about 15mm preload anyway so if I took that off the back end would certainly be scraping the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 If you set the preload right down, the front wheels should come right up... If that's what you're wanting lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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